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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 03:50:16 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #29
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Saturday, October 25 1997 Volume 01 : Number 029



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

[none] [jniolon uss.com]
(re) '52 F-1 [jniolon uss.com]
Re: '52 F-1 ["R. Garber" ]
Re: '52 F-1 ["Thomas R. Happel" ]
Don & Theresa Neighbors Engine Removal [OBKBEE aol.com]
39 Ford Flathead [Betty Sedgwick ]
Re: '52 F-1 [Dan Wentz ]

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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: [none]


On Thursday Kent sas:

*In my 55' Panel I'm installing a 351 w/ modified 400 heads and was
*told that
*I would have to shift the eng/trans to the right 2" of stock position
*because
*of the 75 Cordova front end that is on the truck to gain the needed
*clearance
*for the power steering assembly. This is uncharted ground for me.


This isn't un-doable it just takes some planning and thinking. I just
put a 460/C6 in a 53 F-100, and had to dodge the steering box on the
Chrysler front clip. Offset was 2". It makes it much, much easier
with just the frame to work with (except setting the distance from the
firewall.)

One thing that is very important is the driveshaft phasing. The
centerline (looking from the side of the frame ) of the engine &
transmission and the centerline of the differential must be parallel.
Not on the same plane necessarily but still parallel. This also
applies to the center line (looking down on the frame). This is much
easier to draw than to type. You can explain it with four straight
lines and a few words.

Also the tilt angle on the engine and the pinion angle must also be
within the limits of the travel of the universal joints. Severe
universal joint angles (like in tall 4-wheelers) put extra wear on the
universals.

I set my engine with a 5 degree down angle and the rear-end is
parallel to that. Its' lower but its parallel.. See ?

The same thing looking down on it. The engine is set two inches to
the right of center (looking down on it) and its center line is
parallel to the frame rails. the rearend is 1-1/2" right of center
and parallel to the frame rails. These two are "in phase" even though
the offset is different.

The rest is just fabbing up motor mounts and tying it down.

Hope this doesn't discourage you from the project...good luck

If you don't have to hammer out the fender wells....the engine is too
small...


culater

john

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: (re) '52 F-1


*From: Chris Griffin
*Subject: '52 F-1

*Please everyone, bear with me. I'm new to this mailing list AND new
*to owning a rattle trap of a 1952 F-1. My son (all of 11 years) and I
*intend to rehab it into some sort of a street rod or something.....

First thing before you do anything...do it on paper...make your plans
first. The front suspension alone gives you about five options on
which way to go.

*Does anyone have any good advice, or ideas, maybe some do's or
*don'ts? We're on a fairly limited budget but we have time, tools and
*a little mechanical skill.

Start buying (subscription is cheaper in long run) Custom and Classic
Truck Magazine or Classic Truck Magazine. They offer tech articles
every month on different aspects of restoration/upgrades to classic
trucks (both Ford and Ch*vy)

*Is it terribly complicated switching the steering/suspension to
*something more drivable? (like power steering and disks ?)

I'm doing a 53 f-100...already done a Chrysler torsion bar (volare,
lebaron, etc) front clip and it wasn't extremely difficult. Used a
Lincoln 9" rear end with disc brakes. Fabbed custon ladder bars and
coil overs, so now the truck has independent front suspension with
front and rear disc brakes. The front clip cost me $150 and the donor
car with 460./c-6/9" cost me another 400.

Then there is always the IFS setups using Mustang II parts etc. There
are several vendors in the mags that sell the complete kits and they
really work great...but the money is a little higher to go this way.

REMEMBER...Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Everything -- EVERYTHIMG
you can think of to do to the truck has been done and redone by
someone else and probably an article has been written on it.

I've got a pretty good collection...If there is anything specific you
need let me know and I'll xerox and mail what I have.

good luck

culater

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:29:36 -0500
From: "R. Garber"
Subject: Re: '52 F-1

>Does anyone have any good advice, or ideas, maybe some do's or don'ts?
>We're on a fairly limited budget but we have time, tools and a little
>mechanical skill.
>
> Chris (and Michael),

Since you have more time than money, I would suggest taking
it down to the frame. It's old and everything will need to be gone
through. My first restoration, I made the mistake of doing small
projects and keeping it together, in the end it went down to the
frame anyway and money was wasted. My current project (54
F100) towed it home and took it down to the frame. Alot less
wasted time. Be prepared to spend money! Mines stock and I
still plan on having 5 to 6K invested when its done and thats
doing ALL the work myself.(of corse when you compare 6k
with todays prices thats cheep).When you start talking about
changing things(brakes,steering, etc.) it can get real expensive
fast.
This is a great list, I don't know how many are on this list but,
post your questions as they arise and your sure to get different
ideas about your problems.(ah, the power of the internet!)
Also, Get a good air compressor! they make life so much
eaisier. Sandblasters take alot of air and to do it right you
will need one. Mine throws 18c.f.m. 90 p.s.i.
Take your time, do it right and have fun. Welcome to the
world of Ford Trucks.
"A mans not a man without a Ford Truck!"

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 08:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Thomas R. Happel"
Subject: Re: '52 F-1

>Does anyone have any good advice, or ideas, maybe some do's or don'ts?
>We're on a fairly limited budget but we have time, tools and a little
>mechanical skill.
>
> Chris (and Michael),

>Since you have more time than money, I would suggest taking
>it down to the frame. It's old and everything will need to be gone
>through. My first restoration, I made the mistake of doing small

> Also, Get a good air compressor! they make life so much
>eaisier. Sandblasters take alot of air and to do it right you
>will need one. Mine throws 18c.f.m. 90 p.s.i.
>Take your time, do it right and have fun. Welcome to the
>world of Ford Trucks.
>"A mans not a man without a Ford Truck!"

Here-Here!! I must agree!!!! I have just finished a '53 f-100 to
original and the two best things done were a. Compressor and b. down
to frame(actually there were 3, the first being working with my father)

I had the great pleasure of growing up with classic cars
and even today I am able to work with my father and it is an experience
I will cherish forever. I highly recommend fathers getting there kids
involved. It may take a little more time to explain things and you might
have to bite your tongue a few times, but it's worth it. I'm now 32 and
have a 6 year old that I plan on working on cars with.

Another advantage to working as a family, right now I don't have a
ton of money, but Dad can help. I do the grunt work, like putting
engines in and cabs on frames, and Dad does the painful work like paying
the engine builder, and the painter. The only problem is the Title
is at his house but the truck is at mine. Hmmmm??

Have fun and enjoy your Father - Son (or should I be P.C. and say Parent
- - Kid) project!!!

- -Hap

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 13:07:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: OBKBEE aol.com
Subject: Don & Theresa Neighbors Engine Removal

Don & Theresa,
I pulled the hood and fenders off my 55' Panel yesterday to remove the
eng and trans to put in a bigger engine and change to an automatic. You can
pull it from a tree and just remove the hood but I'm going to convert this
to a tilt foreward front end. It's a bit easier because you don't have to
lift the eng so high to get it out. If you leave the tranny attached and it's
a stock unit you will have to take out the tranny floor pan and remove the
top of the tranny to get the shifter out first. Probably your best bet is to
put the truck up on a pair of car ramps and yank it from a tree. Some cherry
pickers (boom hoist) have a big enough ram to raise it enough. :)Then again
the easiest way is to go to bed an dream real hard. Good luck, Hope I have
helped.
Kent Berger
obkbee aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 18:35:04 -0700
From: Betty Sedgwick
Subject: 39 Ford Flathead

All of the pre 1949 Ford flatheads with the distributor mounted in the
front (on the cam) were dual points. Technically, they have to be set on
a special machine which is why most people keep a spare plate around
with the points premounted. I do have a page from a 1941 manual
somewhere that has instructions on how to set them using two straight
edges. These distributors were mechanical advance with a vacuum brake
and were really a better distributor than the 49-53's. (my opinion)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 16:54:29 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: '52 F-1

>Does anyone have any good advice, or ideas, maybe some do's or don'ts?
>We're on a fairly limited budget but we have time, tools and a little
>mechanical skill.

I have a lot to say on the subject, but I think I'll just refer you to my
sig file to start. :)
....


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