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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 03:50:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #2
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Thursday, September 25 1997 Volume 01 : Number 002



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1960 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

seat cover for 47 truck [Jeff Hazewinkel ]
Re: BTU's 'R' us.. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Fuel tank coatings. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Flathead Help (Ignition math..) [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: All lists back up. Please read [GTowns1224 aol.com]
Clay Nelson cmeister ix.netcom.com ["Lee Hardy" ]

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 08:30:54 -0500
From: Jeff Hazewinkel
Subject: seat cover for 47 truck

I am looking for a supplier for a seat cover for my 47 one ton. I have
an ad from a supplier in Hemmings that is asking $135 for everything to
cover my springs, but I would like to at least get one more price before
I place an order. Anyone have a good source ?

Jeff

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 08:59:52 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: BTU's 'R' us..

Wow! Thanks to all who replied to my quest for more heat in my 71 F100.
You guys gave up a ton of good suggestions!

I wont try to reply to all the posts, but they were all appreciated,
and here's a summary of them and my efforts to get warmer:

* The cooling system is in good order, no leaks, holds pressure, has
recovery tank so the radiator stays full, good working thermostat, etc.

* The heater and bypass hoses are hooked up correctly.
(Not much choice with FE.)

* The heater core, coolant valve and hoses are new.

* The coolant valve is working and opens fully.

* The heater core doesn't have an air pocket in it. This is one I
hadn't thought of yet, so I "burped" it last night.
(with the garden hose, got a good stream thru it for a while, then closed
the heater valve and hooked the hoses back up before any water could
drain out. No air, no difference...

* Coolant is 80% H2O and 20% glycol with a pint of redline water wetter.

* The heater fan works fine, moves lots of air, just not very hot air.

I think that I've run out of good possibilities, altho I will try
Dave's suggestion about restricting the bypass line and see if that
helps. I'll be changing intake manifolds next week, so it's a good
chance to try that.

Maybe I just expect to much from it... perhaps I just need to wear
warmer clothes when I drive.
Getting new door rubber and fixing some of the air leaks into the cab
would probably help a lot.

I thought about installing an electric "booster pump" in the heater
hose, but I already had the bosch heater. (which will be fully
functioning by next week.)

Someone asked if I was worried about monoxide from the Bosch heater..
No. Not really. The bosch heater has a nice stainless heat exchanger,
and exhaust from the combustion chamber exits thru its own 1-1/2" exhaust
pipe and can be routed well away from the fresh air inlet.
Also, now that electronic CO sensors are becoming cheap, I'll probably
get one and put it in the camper shell and wire it into my fuel pump
control circuitry.

Thanks again You guys..

Happy motoring,


Steve Delanty


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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 08:59:57 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Fuel tank coatings.

Well, I've got the bosch heater nearly installed in the truck.
I built a nice little 2 gallon fuel tank for it that lives
alongside the frame rail, but before I bolt it up I wonder if
I should coat the inside of the tank to keep it from rusting?

Any advise on fuel tank coatings? (favorite types, etc?)
Should I even bother?
It's made of clean, rust free 1/8" thick material, is it necessary to
coat it?

Thanks,

Steve Delanty


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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 14:05:12 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Flathead Help (Ignition math..)

>Isn't the condenser supposed to help stop point burn? If there isn't one
>on an old flat head maybe you could add one external on the distributor.
>
>
>I agree that most 12 ignition systems use a ballast resistor but a while
>back when I was looking for a stock coil I came upon an interesting
>item. In the parts books there was an entry for coils with "internal or
>external" resister. I assume ( and we all know where that can get us )
>it meant there was an internal resister in the coil so an external one
>would not be needed. Keep in mind I have never seen an older car / truck
>without an external ballast resister and I am not even sure what the
>application was for the internal one.


This thread has lots of stuff about ign systems lately, so I'll jump in
and try and confuse the issues a bit for Ya...

All coil and points type ignition systems (Kettering ignition) should
have a resistor in series with the coil, and a condensor across
the points.

The resistor limits the current through the points and coil which keeps
them from self destructing quickly. (especially the points)
It helps protect the coil in case the ign is left on with the
engine not running and the points closed.
Also it reduces ignition noise that would otherwise have a low impedance
path to the battery + terminal.

The resistor should always be there, whether it is a seperate unit
mounted on fender or firewall, or a "resistor wire" in the feed to the
coil, or an internally ballasted coil.
60's and 70's aircooled VW's used internally balasted coils, so if You
need one for Your application they are available in either 6v or 12v
from bosch. I know other vehicles used 'em also, but can't name any now..

Calculating an external resistor:

Anexternal resistor should be chosen to provide the coil with
aprox 7-8 volts for a 12v coil or about 4 volts on a 6v coil.

If You have a external resistor coil already, measure the resistance
of the primary winding (da 2 little posts..)
The coil in front of me measures, err, let's see... 3.5 ohms.

So, we have 12 volts to work with and we want 8 volts across a 3.5 ohm
resistance. Right? (just nod)
That means that we need to drop 4 volts across the ballast resistor.
( 12-8=4... with me so far?)
So to calculate the ballast resistor we need to know how much current
the coil is gonna draw.
We wanna put 8 volts on it so: 8v / 3.5ohms = 2.29 Amps. (Ohms law)

Now we know that the ballast resistor has to drop 4 volts with a current
of 2.29 amps thru it, so: 4v / 2.29A = 1.75 ohms.

So for this coil You would want a 1.75 ohm resistor.
But wait..! The resistor also has to be sized for wattage so it doesn't
burn up!

So, Watt's law says: Watts = Volts times Amps.
So the voltage across the resistor is 4 and the Amps is 2.29 = 9.17 watts.

Also, Watts = Amps (squared) times resistance,
So: 2.29 * 2.29 * 1.75 = 9.17 watts. Hey, I got the same answer both
ways! Wow, math does work!

In order to have our resistor live a cool, long, healthy life it should
be rated for twice the wattage You are gonna use it at.
A 1.75 ohm, 20 Watt resistor would be a nice choice for this example.

Yeow, enough resistor math, eh?
If I had a 6v coil to measure, we could do it for 6v. (-:

Are Y'all still reading? Wow, You MUST be bored!

The condensor (capacitor) also must be in the circuit.
It acts as an electrical "shock absorber", preventing current from
arcing across the points when they open.
It also gives the secondary winding a low impedance path to ground for
that nasty voltage spike. (The end that doesn't go to the spark plug)
A coil run without a condensor will have a VERY weak spark, and very
short points life.

The math for calculating the optimum capacitance involves coil impedance,
current, RPM, and more, and I AIN"T gonna do it here.. (so relax)
In practice, traditional values are usually .22 - .47 microfarads.

You can tell if Your condensor is too big or too small by watching the
points at tune-up time...

"Metal migration" can be a sign of improper condensor size.
If Your points build up a little "tit" on one contact, and a matching
"crater" on the other, then You may have a condensor problem.

If the "tit" is on the moving contact (+ side), then the capacitor is
too small. If the tit is on the stationary (ground) side, than the
cap is too big.

If the points just wear out without excess migration, then Yer O.K.

Well' that's all the ign theory for today. It's probably more than
anyone wants, my fingers are tired, and I want a beer...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 17:41:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: GTowns1224 aol.com
Subject: Re: All lists back up. Please read

Thanks for the changes in the list service. I did sign up for the wrong kind
of service in the 60 and older. I would like all the postings to be in one
heading rather than individuals. When you get a chance please change me to
the other kind of 60 and older list. Sorry for the extra work, and thanks
again.

Crackers

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 20:13:34 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Clay Nelson cmeister ix.netcom.com....


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