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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Wed, 17 May 2000 19:48:23 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 19:48:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: pre61-list digest users Reply-to: pre61-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #81 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Tue, 16 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 081 In This Issue: F-1s for sale . . . Gas Gauge Re: Gauge Amperage f600 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Mike Bishop" Subject: F-1s for sale . . . Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 16:18:49 -0700 I'm selling two F-1s, a '50 and a '52. The '50 is a driver with an L-head six and a floor-shift light-duty three-speed. I put a '62 9-inch F-100 axle under it, and replaced the 16-inch wheels with 15s--5 inch-wide rims in front and 7-inch reveresed in back, with serviceable big and little radials. The clutch and throwout are recent (less than 1000 miles), and the trans was treated to a fresh-up at the same time. Steering is stock and in excellent condition. Springs need attention (new bushings and pins), and the shocks have all but forgotten what they're supposed to do. For all that, it's not a bad driver, thanks in great part to the radials and the decent steering box. The cab has a couple of small dents and some rust-out in the front floor (typical damage caused by the jute backing on the original mat). Otherwise, it's excellent--good turret and drip rails, solid corners, unmolested dashboard with not one extra hole! The seat is in good condition, with serviceable fabric upholstery. All the fenders are rough but repairable. (The original owner insisted on parking his beloved truck in the shed every night, even when his 90-year-old eyes could scarcely make out the opening in the building.) The running boards are--amazingly--perfect. The front bumper is straight, but the lower bars of the grille are pranged, as is the upper roll above the grille. The hood is excellent, with only a small spot of distortion on the bottom flange. All of the stainless is excellent. The really great news is that the bed--the longer earlier style with the embossed sides and ribbed front panel--is near perfect. The sides and front are in amazing condition--no distortion, no dents, and no rust-outs. Even the steel floor is intact with no major dents, and the wood subfloor is also intact, providing full support for the steel covering. The tailgate is in good condition, with just a couple of small panel dents and a couple more in the hinge roll--all easily repairable. The truck was originally light green, but over the years the original owner brushed on red-oxide primer in spots where the original paint wore through to original primer. Then, the grandson who inherited the truck turned his kids loose on it with rattle-can light-gray primer--to make it more presentable(!). I've left it this way, hoping for the time to knock it all apart and redo it correctly, but that's not going to happen; I've a new F-100 project that has taken priority, so it's time for the F-1 to move on to someone who will give it the attention it deserves. The price on the '50 is $2800--not a whole lot more than a new '48-'50 bed. The '52 is not a driver--but it is a roller with a complete, straight chassis. There is no engine or transmission (it was a V8 three-speed). The cab is very good, missing 'excellent' only because of a tiny bit of drip rail rust in one location and a tiny rust-out in the windshield flange. The floors and cab corners are sold with no rust-outs. The fenders are average, with rust-out at the running-board attachment points and some dents. Still, they're repairable. The hood is very good--no dents and with most of its trim. Good inner fenders and radiator core support. The bed is very good with straight sides and front panel. (Even almost all the original wood floor is still there!) This one is about 95% complete (other than engine and trans) and is all screwed together and sitting on inflated tires, ready to roll onto your trailer for $800. Mike Bishop P. O. Box 944 West Point, CA 95255 209-293-3307 ------------------------------ From: Ray or Fran Bell Subject: Gas Gauge Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 08:10:47 -0400 Guys 'n Gals .. finally completed my under-bed gas tank installation. Used a VDO sending unit as I'm running 12 V. Sender well grounded. Everything wired according to VDO specs. Gage doesn't work. It appeared to rise slightly off E when I poured in 2 gals. But when I filled the tank the needle moved no further. Double checked under-dash wiring last night and put the good ole' test probe on the sending unit. What I saw was a regular, intermittent flashing of the test light. Good strong 12V brightness, but the current flow acted like I had the power source wired to the turn signal. (No, I didn't do THAT!) Any ideas? RAY ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 09:19:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Winford Rister Subject: Re: Gauge Amperage Randy, If you are considering a resistive voltage drop, your gauges will not be as accurate as if you use a voltage regulator. The current draw and hence the voltage drop across a resistor will change with the signal input, although slightly. I recommend installing an electronic 3 tab regulator to drop from 12+ volts to 6 v. They are available at Radio Shack and other electronic parts suppliers. From reading the manuals and inputs here I learned that Ford used individual thermo-electric regulators in each gauge in the earlier models. Somewhere in the 60's, I don't know exactly when, or maybe before, when they changed to 12 v systems, they went to a single voltage regulator for the instrument panel. It works on the same principle, that is, a heater and interrupter circuit which is constantly opening and closing, causing a pulse signal to the instruments. Anyway, if you drop the voltage to 6v regulated, the original gauges should work fine. - Winford Rister McKinney Texas 54F100(in progress) ______________________________________________ FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com Sign up at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 20:41:23 -0400 From: WIlliam Hendrickson Subject: f600 Hello all you Ford Guru's I have an f600 available locally, its in good shape a little rust and rot, been on a farm all its life , some dents and a 16 foot flatbed. Is there much value in these trucks? He wants 5000 for it but I think its kind of high. Its a 56 by the way. Thanks Bill ------------------------------ End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #81 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck List Send posts to pre61-list ford-trucks.com If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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