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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Thu, 04 May 2000 19:19:58 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 19:19:58 -0400 (EDT)
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pre61-list Digest Wed, 03 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 070

In This Issue:
Re: Ammeter Question
Re: Ammeter Question
Re: ammeter question
I Need Help!!!
Ford car question


Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 10:40:54 -0400
From: 47Fred>
Subject: Re: Ammeter Question

Brian wrote:
> Well, hopefully someone on this list can answer this question for me. We
> are adding some gauges to our truck, and have all of them hooked up except
> for an ammeter. The directions basically say that you need to have
> everything but the starter hooked up to one of it's terminals.

Let give it a shot. MOST aftermarket ammeters have a built in shunt,
and require that the entire measured current pass thru the device's
terminals. Typically, a charging system produces around 25 or 30 amps
for a few moments after cranking and drops to a low level to maintain a
charge. A 10 gauge wire can carry 30 amps all day long, and probably 45
for a short while.
At any rate, remove the small wires that connect to the battery,
(usually at the starter solenoid) and splice them to the 10 gage. Run
the 10 gauge to and from the new amp meter, as short a run as possible,
and connect to the battery post where the you removed the original wire.
In practice the ammeter will now only read the current flow into and out
of the battery. It will not read the current generated by the charging
system as it feeds the lights or stereo. Draw out the circuit and you'll
see why this is so. The only reason you need wire as heavy as a #10 is
for those short bursts of current that arise now and again.

If you use crimp type connectors, be sure to have a tool that will
properly crimp them, a loose crimp will develop a lot of heat, and

47 Fred


Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 09:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee>
Subject: Re: Ammeter Question


What you want is a shunt type ammeter. A small
resistor shunts a small percentage of the current
through the meter. The small current can be handled by
light gauge wires, and the meter is calibrated to read
the full current.

However, I didn't use an ammeter in my truck. You can
get better information with a Volt Meter and it is a
simple hookup. All you need is one hot wire and a
convenient ground.

Dan Lee
'53 F100

> Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 21:06:10 -0700
> Subject: Ammeter Question
> From: Brian>
> Well, hopefully someone on this list can answer this
> question for me. We
> are adding some gauges to our truck, and have all of
> them hooked up except
> for an ammeter. The directions basically say that
> you need to have
> everything but the starter hooked up to one of it's
> terminals, and have the
> other hooked up to the (+) terminal of the battery.
> I'm sure that there is
> a way to hook it up without running two 4 gauge or
> larger wires through the
> firewall, so what is it? I did some research, and I
> found a setup where
> they used a shunt in the circuit between the battery
> (+) and everything but
> the starter, and then used small gauge wire to
> hookup the ammeter to the
> shunt. Can anyone give me some more information on
> this type of setup, or
> anything else that would be accurate without the
> huge wires through the
> firewall? Sorry about the long post, and thanks in
> advance for any help
> that you an provide.
> -Brian
> "Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead
> where there is no path
> and leave a trail." -Muriel Strode

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Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 13:39:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Winford Rister>
Subject: Re: ammeter question

The ammeter you have may not be able to work in other than the direct
method. Some earlier Ford truck ammeters were really voltmeters which
measured the voltage drop across a length of the wire from the battery to
alternator. I had a 71 and a 73 with this type ammeter. If your ammeter
has a removable shunt you may be able to connect it in the same way, but
calibration would be difficult. I have adjusted the sensitivity in the past
by reconnecting the wires from the ammeter to different points along the
batt-alt wire. This is a trial and error method, and could potentially
result in damage to your ammeter. I believe that's why newer vehicles now
use a voltmeter instead of an ammeter.

Winford Rister
McKinney Texas
54F100(in progress)
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From: Meats56
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:53:46 EDT
Subject: I Need Help!!!

Got a question fella's
For my 56 I bought the gas tank for a 53-55 from mid fifty. I also bought the
Hagan gas filler door set. This gas filler set does not fit the contour of
the cab corner well at all. Has anyone got a secret as to how this thing
mounts to get it curved with the cab? When I ordered it this is what they
said I needed. The instructions say use a mallet to beat it into shape..
Still with that I still do not see it fitting very well at all without a lot
of modifications.. Anyone with some info can e-mail me direct..

Meat....( Bill Ireland)


Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:16:24 -0400
From: "C. Greenlaw">
Subject: Ford car question

Since it doesn't look like the truck will make it this year either, I
decided to us the car for a bit this summer. It was last on the road in
'92, so it needed a little freshen up. Does anybody happen to know what
the air cleaner color is if a 57 Ford car 292 (Thunderbird V80 is. I've
got an advertising poster that seems to show silver on the 272, black on
the 292 and gold on the 312, but the poster is black and white so I'm
guessing. Did you guys ever try to find 215-75R-14 tires? good luck.

47 Fred


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