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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Tue, 02 May 2000 23:06:36 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 23:06:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #69
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Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List

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pre61-list Digest Tue, 02 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 069

In This Issue:
Steering gear
Re: Alcoa rims
Re: Toyota Steering box
Ammeter Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Verna chordiant.com>
Subject: Steering gear
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 09:01:39 -0700

I have to agree with Al. Stock is the way to go.
I just installed power steering, rebuilt the steering box
and installed new radials on my 56 and the truck never handled better.
I installed a vintage Eaton power steering pump and control valve along with
a GM
ram that mounted directly to the stock tie rod.
This improvement really made the worn steering box problems show up.
Happily my worm and sector gears were OK, it was only the sector shaft
bushings
that were worn. The rebuild on the box, including all bearings, races,
bushings,
seals and shims was only $100. Great price considering the mail order
places want
$550 to $600 plus shipping for a rebuilt box.

I installed 15 x 8 alloy wheels and 10 x 31.5 x 15 Michelin LTX radials.
This makes the truck sit pretty tall, but the tires fill the wheel openings
nicely and
with the stock suspension, it sits level and drives down the highway at 70+
without any wander. Power steering really helps when you need to park.

Tom Verna
56 F100 "kinda stock workin truck"
66 Mustang Coupe "really stock"
31 Ford Mail Truck "the trailer queen"

It's hard to describe how great my '57 steered after I did a straight stock
replacement on the steering box and kingpins. There are lots of
after-market solutions, but straight stock works really well too.

AL
no-name 57 F100
> Subject: [pre61-list] Steering Gear
> I'm looking for a recommendation for a replacement steering gear for my
> 1950 Ford Pickup. I have rebuilt the front end, but still have a wander
so
I'm sure it is the box. I don't need power steering and I won't be
converting to IFS so what is available?




------------------------------

From: NACatin aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 13:53:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Alcoa rims

Just about ready to get my 52 F4 back on the road. I've seen the Alcoa rims
and or aluminum rims that of course look great on the truck. Where can I get
a set without refinancing my home? Second hand set would be fine.

Many thanks,
Nick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 20:10:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Toyota Steering box
From: "Andy Montebello" dialnet.net>

I can't get an email to the address you listed in the message.

If the box is still for sale, contact me, I'm interested in buying it.
--


----------
>From: mustangclub startext.net>
>To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [pre61-list] Re: Toyota Steering box
>Date: Sun, Apr 30, 2000, 10:15 AM
>

> Hello,
> I have a MANUAL Toyota steering box that I will sell for $50 plus
> shipping. I purchased box for my '56, but went the IFS, power route.
> Don
>
> www.mustangclub startext.net
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 21:06:10 -0700
Subject: Ammeter Question
From: Brian jps.net>

Well, hopefully someone on this list can answer this question for me. We
are adding some gauges to our truck, and have all of them hooked up except
for an ammeter. The directions basically say that you need to have
everything but the starter hooked up to one of it's terminals, and have the
other hooked up to the (+) terminal of the battery. I'm sure that there is
a way to hook it up without running two 4 gauge or larger wires through the
firewall, so what is it? I did some research, and I found a setup where
they used a shunt in the circuit between the battery (+) and everything but
the starter, and then used small gauge wire to hookup the ammeter to the
shunt. Can anyone give me some more information on this type of setup, or
anything else that would be accurate without the huge wires through the
firewall? Sorry about the long post, and thanks in advance for any help
that you an provide.

-Brian

"Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path
and leave a trail." -Muriel Strode


------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #69
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