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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Sun, 16 Apr 2000 18:03:50 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 18:03:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: pre61-list digest users Reply-to: pre61-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #55 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Sat, 15 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 055 In This Issue: Missing Horn? Re: Isuzu tank Re: Steering and Seatbelts Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford 56 Colonial White color HELP Re: Steering and Seatbelts Re: small parts cleaning Re: Small parts cleaning. Re: 1948 synchro?? Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford Re: Small Parts Cleaning 1949 F5 Re: 1948 synchro?? Modern Chassis ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:03:37 -0400 From: "David H. Hersman" Subject: Missing Horn? Please excuse a question concerning a later model. The horn on our 1986 Ford Aerostar doesn't work. I can't even find it! Where is it supposed to be? David (51 F-1) ------------------------------ From: FiftySevenF100 aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:00:19 EDT Subject: Re: Isuzu tank << From: BOBWOOD536 aol.com Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 17:36:02 EDT Subject: Isuzu gas tank For those of you interested. I found the Custom Classic Trucks article on installing a Isuzu tank. I"ve scanned it, if you want a copy Email me. It has 10 pictures and is two pages long. Bob Wood BOBWOOD536 aol.com 60 F100 >> I remember seeing an article years ago. I would like a copy as well (fiftysevenf100 aol.com). But: is this legal? Glenn in TN ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:04:07 -0500 From: JeffH Subject: Re: Steering and Seatbelts Sigh...... Nobody else has bad steering, and nobody uses seatbelts... Just my luck... :P =====jeffh icon-stl.net=====http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.icon-stl.net/~jeffh====== Another fine message brought to you by the Screaming Penguins: Unnoficial site of the "John Madden for President" campaign! ------------------------------ From: WBATTE aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:08:47 EDT Subject: Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford Hello Scott...caught your posting...Looking for original tool kit, bag, jack and round radio w/overhead speaker....any help thanks, bill ------------------------------ From: WBATTE aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:14:26 EDT Subject: 56 Colonial White color HELP Hello Folks: I am having trouble trying to find the original color code (#) for the off-white color associated with the 56 series. This was a stock color usually on the front grill and the rims. Any help is greatly appreciated..... Thank you very much, bill ------------------------------ From: WBATTE aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:24:44 EDT Subject: Re: Steering and Seatbelts Jeff...not sure what your specific steering problem was, but have a stock 56 and replaced the total steering box, that helped alot....as for seatbelts: I found an old ford set at a swap meet (wide greenish color with simple big pass-thru type buckle) neat thing about the belts is they are stamped with FoMoCo. However, after a year with them in the truck I noticed they slipped down and behing the bench seat most all the time. I always wanted a 3pt system in the truck, but did not want to go modern or the hi-tech look. Found and old set of 3pt Porsche belts and have been very satisfied with look and performance......my 2 cents... ciao, bill ------------------------------ From: "Terry" Subject: Re: small parts cleaning Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:42:41 -0500 Anyways... anyone else go through these processes and found another simple good metal cleaning process? I remember when an owner of a Midas Muffler shop realized how well muratic acid cleaned surface rust. He had all of the older hanging stock rubbed down leaving clean shiney pipes afterwards. This was a Saturday nite. On Monday morning when he opened up the shop everything in the whole shop that was bare metal had heavily rusted and turned completely orange. You need to make sure the acid is totally neutralized and no traces left before painting. This stuff is great but will rust any raw metal exposed to the fumes. I have avoided using it on any sheet metal that has overlapping joints or spot welds. It is hard to remove from some areas and the long term effects are horrible. I dropped a small acid brush in a bottle of this acid one time. It was gone in an hour. Use cautiously!! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 20:38:40 -0700 From: "Ray Cardogno" Subject: Re: Small parts cleaning. What is rastonil? Where do you get it? How much? Sorry for the ??? Thanks. Ray C -- On Fri, 14 Apr 2000 22:59:41 Tulio wrote: >I just wanted to share a technique that I've been using to clean up the >small metal parts (ejm taillights, mirrors, blower body, etc) that are >semi to heavily rusted. I've been submerging them in very accessable >muriatic acid (typical pool acid) for approximate 1 hour then using a >product name rastonil that stops the rusting process. When the parts >are cleaned up they come out like new except slightly grainy which I >smooth out with a sanding disc on the ol' drill. Then when painted with >rustoleum black they are smooth and I'm well assured there is no rust >under the paint waiting to crop up on me for a while. > >This is my humble home remedy approach to cleaning my small parts. I >would like to build myself a small sand blast box to try sandblasting >but I know that last time I tried sandblasting with my small compressor >and tote blaster..... well... pfffft.. I could scrape it off faster with >a nail! Anyways... anyone else go through these processes and found >another simple good metal cleaning process? > >-- >Tulio Solorzano >'50 F-1 (newest member to the family) >'60 F-100 Custom Cab >'77 280z >'78 Jeep CJ5 >'79 HD Sportster >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the >message. > > Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 20:51:38 -0700 From: "Ray Cardogno" Subject: Re: 1948 synchro?? I have found a 4 sp tranny for Goth (48 F6) but the seller says it might not be synchro. He has no way of telling. It was removed from a 48 F4 that he never drove. Is there a visual way to tell by the numbers or casting style or ??? short of bolting it in and going for a ride? Thanks Ray C Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com ------------------------------ From: DEADOAK aol.comDate: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:06:53 EDT Subject: Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford How's the tailgate? And how much? CW ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 23:41:49 -0600 (MDT) From: Darcy Lee Davis Subject: Re: Small Parts Cleaning A while ago, I think somebody posted a message about electrolytic rust removal. Either that, or it hit me that I could put some of this chemistry they made me learn for engineering to work. Put the terms "Electrolytic Rust Removal" into your favorite search engine, and see what it comes up with. Apparently, you can remove the rust by an electrolytic process. The claim is made that the process will not touch good metal, so you can leave the parts in as long as necessary. All you need is washing soda, a non-conductive basin big enough to fit the part, and a battery charger. I've actually tried this, and it certainly removes rust, given enough time. I can't say whether the claim about not touching good metal is true, but it certainly removes rust. The only catch I've noticed is that the removal is primarily "Line of Ion Travel (sight)." If you can't find a good site telling how to do this, let me know and I'll look one up. If somebody has alot of time, they could test the claim about not touching good metal as follows. 1.) Put a good (unrusted) chunk of metal in the solution and "electrolyze" it for a few hours to remove any scale/rust that could be on it. 2.) Air dry the chunk and weigh it accurately (you'll need a good scale for this). 3.) Place the chunk back in the solution and let it "electrolyze" for a long time (several days). 4.) Air dry it again, and weigh it. 5.) If the weight has changed significantly, the process does remove good metal. 6.) Email us the results. I'd certainly like to know what the findings are. Darcy Davis ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 02:29:55 -0400 From: WIlliam Hendrickson Subject: 1949 F5 Hello, I have found a 1949 F-5 firetruck for sale in my area. Its pretty rusty and has a few holes where the lights use to go. Has only 8000 miles on it. My question is: How hard would it be to take the pumper body off of this thing and make it a flatbed> I see it has some kind of PTO on the driveshaft for the pumper. What do you guys think?? Bill ------------------------------ From: JRFiero aol.comDate: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:50:05 EDT Subject: Re: 1948 synchro?? In a message dated 4/15/2000 11:53:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, usedequipmentsales angelfire.com writes:> Is there a visual way to tell by the numbers or casting style or Pop the side cover off and see if it has straight cut gears. It probably does, and that's non-synchro. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 16:04:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Robert Whitmore Subject: Modern Chassis Anyone on the list have any experience with, or heard of, putting the cab of a vintage Ford truck on a modern truck or car chassis to make a good daily driver? Something like a mid 80's to 90 F150 or LTD chassis, with a Flare side bed. I have a really nice F6 w/o a bed, but the 20" duals, two speed rear axle and spur gear transmission do not lend themselves to a practical daily driver project. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated. Bob 48 F6 he wants to drive __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #55 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck List Send posts to pre61-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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