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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Sun, 16 Apr 2000 18:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 18:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
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pre61-list Digest Sat, 15 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 055

In This Issue:
Missing Horn?
Re: Isuzu tank
Re: Steering and Seatbelts
Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford
56 Colonial White color HELP
Re: Steering and Seatbelts
Re: small parts cleaning
Re: Small parts cleaning.
Re: 1948 synchro??
Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford
Re: Small Parts Cleaning
1949 F5
Re: 1948 synchro??
Modern Chassis


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:03:37 -0400
From: "David H. Hersman">
Subject: Missing Horn?

Please excuse a question concerning a later model. The horn on our 1986 Ford Aerostar
doesn't work. I can't even find it! Where is it supposed to be?

David (51 F-1)


From: FiftySevenF100
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:00:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Isuzu tank

<< From: BOBWOOD536
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 17:36:02 EDT
Subject: Isuzu gas tank

For those of you interested. I found the Custom Classic Trucks article on
installing a Isuzu tank. I"ve scanned it, if you want a copy Email me. It
10 pictures and is two pages long.

Bob Wood
60 F100 >>

I remember seeing an article years ago. I would like a copy as well

But: is this legal?

Glenn in TN


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:04:07 -0500
From: JeffH>
Subject: Re: Steering and Seatbelts

Sigh...... Nobody else has bad steering, and nobody uses seatbelts...

Just my luck... :P

Another fine message brought to you by the Screaming Penguins:
Unnoficial site of the "John Madden for President" campaign!


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:08:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford

Hello Scott...caught your posting...Looking for original tool kit, bag, jack
and round radio w/overhead speaker....any help


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:14:26 EDT
Subject: 56 Colonial White color HELP

Hello Folks:
I am having trouble trying to find the original color code (#) for the
off-white color associated with the 56 series. This was a stock color
usually on the front grill and the rims. Any help is greatly appreciated.....
Thank you very much,


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:24:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering and Seatbelts

Jeff...not sure what your specific steering problem was, but have a stock 56
and replaced the total steering box, that helped for seatbelts: I
found an old ford set at a swap meet (wide greenish color with simple big
pass-thru type buckle) neat thing about the belts is they are stamped with
FoMoCo. However, after a year with them in the truck I noticed they slipped
down and behing the bench seat most all the time. I always wanted a 3pt
system in the truck, but did not want to go modern or the hi-tech look.
Found and old set of 3pt Porsche belts and have been very satisfied with look
and 2 cents...


From: "Terry">
Subject: Re: small parts cleaning
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:42:41 -0500

Anyways... anyone else go through these processes and found
another simple good metal cleaning process?

I remember when an owner of a Midas Muffler shop realized how well muratic
acid cleaned surface rust. He had all of the older hanging stock rubbed down
leaving clean shiney pipes afterwards. This was a Saturday nite. On Monday
morning when he opened up the shop everything in the whole shop that was
bare metal had heavily rusted and turned completely orange. You need to make
sure the acid is totally neutralized and no traces left before painting.
This stuff is great but will rust any raw metal exposed to the fumes. I have
avoided using it on any sheet metal that has overlapping joints or spot
welds. It is hard to remove from some areas and the long term effects are
horrible. I dropped a small acid brush in a bottle of this acid one time. It
was gone in an hour. Use cautiously!!


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 20:38:40 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno">
Subject: Re: Small parts cleaning.

What is rastonil? Where do you get it? How much? Sorry for the ??? Thanks.

Ray C

On Fri, 14 Apr 2000 22:59:41 Tulio wrote:
>I just wanted to share a technique that I've been using to clean up the
>small metal parts (ejm taillights, mirrors, blower body, etc) that are
>semi to heavily rusted. I've been submerging them in very accessable
>muriatic acid (typical pool acid) for approximate 1 hour then using a
>product name rastonil that stops the rusting process. When the parts
>are cleaned up they come out like new except slightly grainy which I
>smooth out with a sanding disc on the ol' drill. Then when painted with
>rustoleum black they are smooth and I'm well assured there is no rust
>under the paint waiting to crop up on me for a while.
>This is my humble home remedy approach to cleaning my small parts. I
>would like to build myself a small sand blast box to try sandblasting
>but I know that last time I tried sandblasting with my small compressor
>and tote blaster..... well... pfffft.. I could scrape it off faster with
>a nail! Anyways... anyone else go through these processes and found
>another simple good metal cleaning process?
>Tulio Solorzano
>'50 F-1 (newest member to the family)
>'60 F-100 Custom Cab
>'77 280z
>'78 Jeep CJ5
>'79 HD Sportster
>To unsubscribe, send email to: with
>the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the

Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.


Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 20:51:38 -0700
From: "Ray Cardogno">
Subject: Re: 1948 synchro??

I have found a 4 sp tranny for Goth (48 F6) but the seller says it might not be synchro. He has no way of telling. It was removed from a 48 F4 that he never drove. Is there a visual way to tell by the numbers or casting style or ??? short of bolting it in and going for a ride?


Ray C

Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail.


Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:06:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Parting out 51-52 Ford

How's the tailgate? And how much?



Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 23:41:49 -0600 (MDT)
From: Darcy Lee Davis>
Subject: Re: Small Parts Cleaning

A while ago, I think somebody posted a message about electrolytic rust
removal. Either that, or it hit me that I could put some of this chemistry
they made me learn for engineering to work. Put the terms
"Electrolytic Rust Removal" into your favorite search engine,
and see what it comes up with. Apparently, you can remove the rust by an
electrolytic process. The claim is made that the process will not touch
good metal, so you can leave the parts in as long as necessary. All you
need is washing soda, a non-conductive basin big enough to fit the part,
and a battery charger. I've actually tried this, and it certainly removes
rust, given enough time. I can't say whether the claim about not touching
good metal is true, but it certainly removes rust. The only catch I've
noticed is that the removal is primarily "Line of Ion Travel (sight)."
If you can't find a good site telling how to do this, let me know and I'll
look one up. If somebody has alot of time, they could test the claim about
not touching good metal as follows.

1.) Put a good (unrusted) chunk of metal in the solution and "electrolyze"
it for a few hours to remove any scale/rust that could be on it.

2.) Air dry the chunk and weigh it accurately (you'll need a good scale
for this).

3.) Place the chunk back in the solution and let it "electrolyze" for a
long time (several days).

4.) Air dry it again, and weigh it.

5.) If the weight has changed significantly, the process does remove good

6.) Email us the results. I'd certainly like to know what the findings

Darcy Davis


Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 02:29:55 -0400
From: WIlliam Hendrickson>
Subject: 1949 F5

I have found a 1949 F-5 firetruck for sale in my area. Its pretty rusty
and has a few holes where the lights use to go. Has only 8000 miles on
it. My question is: How hard would it be to take the pumper body off of
this thing and make it a flatbed> I see it has some kind of PTO on the
driveshaft for the pumper. What do you guys think??


Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:50:05 EDT
Subject: Re: 1948 synchro??

In a message dated 4/15/2000 11:53:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:

> Is there a visual way to tell by the numbers or casting style or
Pop the side cover off and see if it has straight cut gears. It probably
does, and that's non-synchro.


Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 16:04:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Whitmore>
Subject: Modern Chassis

Anyone on the list have any experience with, or heard
of, putting the cab of a vintage Ford truck on a
modern truck or car chassis to make a good daily
driver? Something like a mid 80's to 90 F150 or LTD
chassis, with a Flare side bed. I have a really nice
F6 w/o a bed, but the 20" duals, two speed rear axle
and spur gear transmission do not lend themselves to a
practical daily driver project. Any suggestions or
opinions would be appreciated.
48 F6 he wants to drive

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End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #55
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck List

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