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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Sun, 09 Apr 2000 00:01:32 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 00:01:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #48
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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In This Issue:
Re: steering from Lincoln
one more time . . .
Re: (No subject)Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 23:56:01 -0500
Re: 50 F-3 seatbelts
Re: Chopped top
Re: Want tailgate "FORD" stickers or decals
Re: Chopped top
Re: 50 F-3 seatbelts
From: FiftySevenF100 aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 22:24:49 EDT
Subject: Re: steering from Lincoln
<< Not an easy job, and don't know if it was worth the effort, just to keep it
all Ford, and preserve the in-the-wheel cruise controls.
Good luck! >>
I looked at your site and bookmarked it for future reference. My mounts are
similar to yours, but I have to fabricate for 4 mounting points. Looks like
you are using a car wiring harness. What did it come out of?
Glenn in TN
From: "Mike Bishop" volcano.net>
Subject: one more time . . .
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 20:04:58 -0700
Would someone please help me with a dimension I need for a design project
I'm working on. I need the center-to-center distance between the park lights
on a '53-'56 F-100?
When I asked last week for the similar dimensions on '51-'52 F-1 and '53-'56
F-100 the F-1 guys came through in a flash. Thanks--your response is much
I know it doesn't sound terribly important, but it could save me a two-hour
trip down off the mountain and back, and enable me to have my 'ducks in a
row' when I present my story.
If there's an F-100 person out there who can help I'll be grateful.
. Will I
> have permanent flat spots on my Coker reproduction bias-ply 16 inch
> whitewall tires? If it's not permanant what should I do to get them round
You will get flat spots that are hard to run out on bias tires. They are
terrible compared to radials. It can also cause the plies to seperate. If I
spent money to have vintage style tires, they would be off the floor if I
wasnt driving them over any length of time. I have seen plenty of tires
round back out fine, but equal numbers have been chunked in the trash.
I'm at that point w/ my 52 F4 that I am considering floor carpets. The
will be a daily driver and I'm not looking for anything fancy.
Go to a larger swap meet. There are usually guys selling rolls of auto style
carpet fpr aout $20. You may also find the foil backed floor insulation for
about the same price. This stuff works great at deflecting heat away from
jeff h. was looking for 3 point belts for his f-3 look on page 101 of the
april Custom/Classic trucks mag $57 for 3 point and $16 for lap belts,not
a bad price. they are called G.E.M. street rod products 1-800-588-BELT
located in calif. As far as mounting the shoulder portion I always thought
the curved reinforcment that wraps around the rear of the cab was a perfect
place to tack on a good safe belt mount. hope this helps a bit.
49 f-1 (2 days of snow-opening day is tues!)
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 11:00:43 -0400
From: Gary Vandergrift home.com>
Subject: (no subject)
I had a set of tires once that got flat spots on them if they sat too
long. They bumped for a while when you started driving, but it went
away after time. You could also kneed them if you were a devoded owner
(if you really loved your truck).
GV in CT
1937 Ford Pickup Truck - '52 V8 power
I am getting into the body portion of my 56 street rod. Has anyone used the
Por-15? If so how does it compare to the DP48 epoxy primer. I plan on using
it (if I get some good feedback) on the underneath of my fenders and on the
inner part of my doors. Do you brush or spray? If sprayed does it need to be
reduced? Does it act as a primer or can you prime over it with a scratch
filler like PPG K-36? All my body (truck) LOL parts have been dipped and are
bare metal. Is it necessary to buy all the extra's or can I just use the
Very nice, are you a body shop? Are you cutting from a templet? Two years ago
at Pigeon Forge their was a 52 F 1 with a chopped top and channeled hood with
the fenders raised and I personally thought it was the best at the show. Are
you moving in that direction?
Check with a vinyl sign shop that can scan what ever you want and shrink or
expand it to what ever size you want. That is easier than trying to find
something that you like from one of the after market suppliers.
I'm just a beginner working out of mine and a buddy's garage. I made a
paper templet four inches wide and used it to mark all the cut lines. I think
I've seen the truck your talking about I say in light blue paint them It was
panted a light tan color. The chopped top going to be my only big
modification. Well, that and the fact that I added a Mustang II front end and
I c-channeled the rear frame so the axle flip would work.
At 07:34 AM 4/8/2000 EDT, russ wrote:
>jeff h. was looking for 3 point belts for his f-3 look on page 101 of the
>april Custom/Classic trucks mag $57 for 3 point and $16 for lap belts,not
>a bad price. they are called G.E.M. street rod products 1-800-588-BELT
>located in calif. As far as mounting the shoulder portion I always thought
>the curved reinforcment that wraps around the rear of the cab was a perfect
>place to tack on a good safe belt mount. hope this helps a bit.
Thanks Russ, I'll look that up. I have the Oct 99 CCT where they have
an article on installing 3-pt Juliano's belts into a '50 *ahem*
non-Ford... :) The upper (shoulder) piece uses an elongated anchor
behind whatever metal piece you're bolting it to, to screw the bolt
into. I'm can't remember if the reinforcement you're talking about has
room between it and the cab or not (yeah, I'm too lazy to just go over
to the shop and look at the darn thing), was interested if anyone else
has done this and what mounting point they used.
Another fine message brought to you by the Screaming Penguins:
Unnoficial site of the "John Madden for President" campaign!
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