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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:53:47 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:53:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #41
Precedence: bulk

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------------------------------------
pre61-list Digest Thu, 30 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 041

In This Issue:
C-6 Kickdown
Re: C6 Kickdown
Lifetime oil/tires
Re: Lifetime oil/tires
Re: Lifetime oil/tires
Re: Amsoil
Re: light switch
Re: Light switches
Re: C6 kickdown
Radiator/fan position
Re: Radiator/fan position
power windows
Re: power windows
Re: C6 Kickdown
Re: Light switches
Re: Light switches
Re: Light switches
Re: [pre61-list]Feul gauge glowing!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: MichellHC aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:13:59 EST
Subject: C-6 Kickdown

The Kick down lever should be directly behind the shift linkage lever. There
are two shafts one with in the other. The inner shaft is the longest and that
is the shift linkage shaft, and the outer shaft is the one for the kick down.
Check and see if you have both levers. If not simply remove the outer lever
and install the inner lever and you will be in bissiness.

Michelle
Chelle's 56 Hauler

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:37:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: C6 Kickdown

Dennis,

I just installed a Lokar kickdown cable on my C6.
Lokar supplies an arm that attaches to the center
shaft of the gear selector shaft. The cable is
supported by a bracket mounted on the case. There is a
carb bracket also required.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


>From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" pge.com>
>Subject: C6 Kickdown
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:34:37 -0800

>Hi all,

>I have a C6 in my 55 that the original owner
installed >an modified the tranny linkage. After 3
years of >running around without a kickdown I'm
thinking of >putting a kickdown cable back on the
transmission. My
>question is;
> Where does the cable attach to the tranny, at the
>linkage or some other point on the transmission. I
>would sort of like to know if I have to replace the
>modified linkage before I buy one.

>Thanks for your help.

>Dennis
>55F100



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:09:05 -0500
From: Paul cfw.com>
Subject: Lifetime oil/tires

As others, I have gone through many phases of deciding on long life
products vs. regular products. I am now in the regular products phase.
For example:

A. As noted, if you have to change your filter, why bother with a long
life synthetic oil? Just change the oil at the same time. By the way,
after reading that article re: ash in oil and its effects on engine
wear, I now use Havoline (no ash).

B. Tires: You can buy expensive tires with very long warranties, or
not. Have you ever noticed that the rubber oxidizes/cruds up over time,
turning into a "hardened" rubber? It doesn't have the "grip" of new
rubber. So, I now buy regular/low side mileage tires, replace them
more, and always have fresh rubber, instead of 80/100k tires which have
that "hardened" rubber which I swear doesn't grip as well, plus due to
banging curbs, etc., they look bad for twice as long. Does anyone else
share my cosmic vision? :}

Going back to work,
Paul Gayda

------------------------------

From: "Tim Mortimore" evergo.net>
Subject: Re: Lifetime oil/tires
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:37:26 -0800

at the risk of blaspheming-- sometimes i buy cheap tools!

especially when i'm pretty sure i'll lose it before its useful life is up.
:-(

as for the tires, those high milage tires start with a hard compound, that's
what makes them last so long. i've had both (40k/50k and 80k) and there is
no comparing the wet traction between premium 50k tires and premium 80k
tires.

it has always been easy for me to justify top tires, it seems to me all the
damage occurs in the last few feet...

tim in seattle -- we know about wet around here!



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:03:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Ed Ellston yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lifetime oil/tires

Blaspheming, blaspheming!!! I've used both cheap
tools and good tools and I screw it up either way.
It's like having the best set of golf clubs in the
world and you still do poorly.

It's the talent of the mechanic that makes the
difference.

Ed and the old effie




--- Tim Mortimore evergo.net> wrote:
> at the risk of blaspheming-- sometimes i buy cheap
> tools!
>
> especially when i'm pretty sure i'll lose it before
> its useful life is up.
> :-(
>
> as for the tires, those high milage tires start with
> a hard compound, that's
> what makes them last so long. i've had both
> (40k/50k and 80k) and there is
> no comparing the wet traction between premium 50k
> tires and premium 80k
> tires.
>
> it has always been easy for me to justify top tires,
> it seems to me all the
> damage occurs in the last few feet...
>
> tim in seattle -- we know about wet around here!
>
>
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject
> of the
> message.
>
>

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------------------------------

From: FiftySevenF100 aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:15:05 EST
Subject: Re: Amsoil


<< Subject: Re: One more oil comment!

I've heard the same story. All you supposed to do is change the filter and
replace the oil that was in the filter with new oil. This is supposed to
rejuvenate the oil that has broken down. I don't know that I believe all of
it.
I think the only way to get all of the impurities out is to do a complete oil
change.

-Ted >>

The article I heard said that if you use the Amsoil oil and filter (seems I
remember the ad saying the filter worked down to 0.01 micron), you don't have
to change the oil for 500,000 miles. It stated that you do have to have the
checked yearly for contaminants. This still seems far fetched!

Glenn in TN

------------------------------

From: BOBWOOD536aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:17:05 EST
Subject: Re: light switch

Nick,
You are lucky switches are one of the few things you don't have to worry
about in a 6 to 12 conversion. Everything actually draws less amperage, The
wattage through the switch is about the same. The end user ( light, fan
motor, etc) has to be changed to 12V but the wiring and switches don't. Just
remember to check the amp rating on the stuff and change you fuses, to the
lower amperage.
Bob Wood
60 F100

------------------------------

From: BOBWOOD536aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:27:42 EST
Subject: Re: Light switches

Nick,
I forgot about the gauges. Have you got a reducer for them? the won't work on
12V.
You can get a voltage reducer off almost anyother rig. THey used 6V gauges
till the 80's in some cars. Or you can use a modern voltage regulator.
There's a guy named Steve with a good tech page on doing this he is at (
www.sonic.net/~sdelany/ ). He also has a good page on putting in electronic
points, this uses you orignal points put uses a transistor to fire your coil
so your points last for almost ever.
Hope this helps.
Bob Wood
BOBWOOD536aol.com

------------------------------

From: BOBWOOD536aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:44:32 EST
Subject: Re: C6 kickdown

Dennis,
I went out and looked at my C6, there is a upside done u shaped connetor that
is about 4 inches wide and 2 inches tall that connects to the tranny and then
to the kickdown rod. The order everything is on the trany is gear selector (
which is h shaped and points torwards the ground) 2 inch around and 1/2 inch
thick plastic piece which is the back up light and netural safety swich, then
the u shaped kickdown lever. If you want I'll borrow a friend Polaroid
camerea and take a picture and email it.
Hope this helps.
Bob Wood
BOBWOOD536aol.com

------------------------------

From: FiftySevenF100aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:47:59 EST
Subject: Radiator/fan position

FTEers,

I have got the driveshaft installed in my 57 now! It sure feels good to get
something done! My next feat will be to get the radiator mounted (I'm really
procrastinating the wiring job). I want to use the radiator from the Lincoln
donor car because it has the transmission cooling lines already in, plus it
has a horizontal flow which is supposed to work better (?). My question is if
I go this route the clutch fan will be about 1/2" away from the radiator.
This seems too close! If it is I can either put a regular fan on it or go
with a thin electric fan. I hear that the electric fans won't do as good a
job as an engine mounted fan. What do ya'll think?

Glenn in TN
Pigeon Forge or bust!

------------------------------

From: "Keith Kubiak" <55fordf100home.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator/fan position
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:54:01 -0800

The fan sounds like it is too close. I had the same problem with a 61 (292
engine) and fired it up anyways. As soon as I gave it some RPM's the fan
flexed towards the radiator and put a nice circle in it, ruining the
radiator. Have you tried a shorter fan spacer? I like the electric fans
for 2 reason 1. Cools better at idle and slow speeds and 2. save some HP. I
solved the problem with my 61 by going to a shorter fan spacer.

----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 3:47 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Radiator/fan position


> FTEers,
>
> I have got the driveshaft installed in my 57 now! It sure feels good to
get
> something done! My next feat will be to get the radiator mounted (I'm
really
> procrastinating the wiring job). I want to use the radiator from the
Lincoln
> donor car because it has the transmission cooling lines already in, plus
it
> has a horizontal flow which is supposed to work better (?). My question is
if
> I go this route the clutch fan will be about 1/2" away from the radiator.
> This seems too close! If it is I can either put a regular fan on it or go
> with a thin electric fan. I hear that the electric fans won't do as good a
> job as an engine mounted fan. What do ya'll think?
>
> Glenn in TN
> Pigeon Forge or bust!
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: Larrykvetaol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:02:00 EST
Subject: power windows

anyone know of a junk yard swap- power window to use in a 53 f100- any thing
"bolt up"?- thanks larry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:27:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: power windows

It;s not bolt up, but we used the power from a 86 Daytona on our 52.
It took lots of measuring but they work good so far.
Scott

--- Larrykvetaol.com wrote:
> anyone know of a junk yard swap- power window to use in a 53 f100-
> any thing
> "bolt up"?- thanks larry
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>

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------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" fwi.com>
Subject: Re: C6 Kickdown
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:09:12 -0500

Not being a real Ford nut, let me try. I put a car C-6 in a truck and it had a
different shaped shift lever. You can change the levers, but have to remove
the pan to get at big nut on shaft. The kickdown lever should be on same
shaft behind the main lever. Maybe it was cut-off (broken-off) or removed.
That is for a rod linkage. I'm not sure if Ford used cable on these.
Good Luck, "G"


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:59:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Ed Ellston yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Light switches

Bob:

I tried that web address and it said it no longer
exists or not found. I would really like to get that
information so if you could verify that address I suer
would appreciate it.

Thanks very much

Ed and the Effie

--- BOBWOOD536aol.com wrote:
> Nick,
> I forgot about the gauges. Have you got a reducer
> for them? the won't work on
> 12V.
> You can get a voltage reducer off almost anyother
> rig. THey used 6V gauges
> till the 80's in some cars. Or you can use a modern
> voltage regulator.
> There's a guy named Steve with a good tech page on
> doing this he is at (
> www.sonic.net/~sdelany/ ). He also has a good page
> on putting in electronic
> points, this uses you orignal points put uses a
> transistor to fire your coil
> so your points last for almost ever.
> Hope this helps.
> Bob Wood
> BOBWOOD536aol.com
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject
> of the
> message.
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: NACatinaol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:07:41 EST
Subject: Re: Light switches

Bob,
I had the same result w/ the sonic site. Nick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 06:40:00 -0500
From: "Thomas J. Teixeira" world.std.com>
Subject: Re: Light switches

At 06:59 PM 03/30/2000 -0800, Ed Ellston wrote:
>Bob:
>
>I tried that web address and it said it no longer
>exists or not found. I would really like to get that
>information so if you could verify that address I suer
>would appreciate it.
>
>Thanks very much
>
>Ed and the Effie

Someone left a 't' out of the name. It is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Tom Teixeira '35 pickup http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://world.std.com/~tjt/35Pickup.html


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:52:23 -0800
From: "Ray Cardogno" angelfire.com>
Subject: Re: [pre61-list]Feul gauge glowing!

My feul gauge seems to have a resistance wire heater in it that glows red hot in the dark. This glows even when the ignition switch is off. Probably explains why I had to put a kill switch on.

Is this glow normal? It's on my 48 and I just noticed it for the 1st time tonight after going for an eventful night ride. It's a little un-nerving to see red hot glow through the slot on the gauge but somehow I am thinking this is part of the normal operation of the feul gauge. Can somebody put me at ease on this?

Ray C


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com

------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #41
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