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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Mon, 27 Mar 2000 00:37:44 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 00:37:44 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #37
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pre61-list Digest Sun, 26 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 037

In This Issue:
Re: '57 Springs, etc.
My new '49
57 springs
> 57 front suspension
> Horn Button
Re: Horn Button
Re: My new '49
Re: Steeing box removal
'57 suspension upgrade
Electronic Ignitions
Running boards
Re: Flathead fuel pump
Re: pre61-list digest Shop Manuals
> Re: pre61-list digest 292 Engine Oil
Re: pre61-list digest 292 Engine Oil
Re: which engine oil?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" fwi.com>
Subject: Re: '57 Springs, etc.
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 01:03:24 -0500

Drag Links are the #1 problem for tight steering on ole Fords.
Find a new one, or have one made at a race car suspension
> place. Two tie rod ends and a tube of right size is all you
need. "G"


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 23:40:39 -0800
From: Tulio jps.net>
Subject: My new '49

I just got back yesterday from Nebraska.... with a '49 F-1 in tow on an
auto dolly. I took my '60 F-100 from San Jose, Ca to Scottsbluff,
Nebraska on Monday.. got there Tuesday... left Wednesday and arrived
back friday morning. It was quite the adventure. Only one truly
dangerous episode occured when my left rear tire lost three lugnuts and
the last two were only hanging on by threads.... I thought at first it
was a vibration due to the auto dolly... but, stopped to check it out
anyways.. was ever so glad I did! Other than that... 'Truckie' got me
there... and brought back my new project, a complete '49 F-1. It is
very straight with some rust... around the bottom of the fenders and in
front where the chassis attaches to the fenders... I took the carb
apart and totally cleaned/unclogged the unit. Seems the engine, a V-8
Flathead, has not run in quite some time. It is missing the door glass
and door access panels, but other than that.. it is complete. I think
these parts are missing because the previous owner was going to do this
project but, things changed for him... and he sold it. I will try to
restore it stock. So... since there are many different aspects to this
truck in comparison to my '60... I will have questions in the future.
Heh.. having been part of this group for over a year and a half..
reading every newsletter has learned me much... I was immediately aware
of the positive ground and six volts.... I even checked the bed to find
under the steel (rusted through) veneer there was wood.

I want to once again praise my '60 F-100. When I was on the way back
here I stopped off to get gas and was more than once offered to sell it
or giving me praise for the 'great looking truck' I owned. When I
looked at the two trucks... the '60 towing the '49 I really felt
blessed.... the '60 looks Braun/stylish & regal while the '49 is
traditional classic. Heh... everyone looked/gawked or otherwise took
note as I went by. Even the California border attendent commented "I
see you have a project there!"... he was happy to see the ol' truck
being towed by a restored old truck... he was confident what would
happen to the old '49 in my hands... I hope to see the same. Anyways..
I want to praise this group for it's great support to the crafty hands
of all involved... trucks don't die in our yards... they get rebuilt,
stored, traded off or sold... but, never say die!

--
Tulio Solorzano
'60 F-100 Custom Cab
'79 Harley Sportster
& now, '49 F-1

------------------------------

From: BOBWOOD536 aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 03:24:59 EST
Subject: 57 springs
>
Ken
I've done all of that to my 60 F100.
I got the pitman (drag) arm from schuck's believe it or not, I think it was
about $80 this was 3 years ago. I put new kingspins, upgraded the brakes to a
dual reservoir master cylinder (from a 73 F250) new tie rod ends and new mono
springs. And I still have slop in the front end, the steering box is shot
which seems to be a problem with all the older fords. I've thought of
upgrading to the ram assist steering but with a worn box it would still
wonder all over the place. I've seen rebuilt boxes for about $550, but I
think I'm going to try the toyota box retro fit. I had took the mono springs
> off they lowered the truck about 4 1/2 which looked really sharp but it gave
the truck a rough ride. My manual says that 6 leaves are what you are
supposed to have. Hope this helps.
Bob Wood
60 F100
sitting in the backyard waiting for the 302 C/6
BOBWOOD536 aol.com

------------------------------

From: FiftySevenF100 aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 07:15:05 EST
Subject: 57 front suspension
>
Ken,

Don't do what I did. I have grafted a Town Car front end on my 57. It should
work fine when (the key is "when") I get going. But since this deal has been
outside the normal for clips, I was winging it from the start. If you go with
a clip, use one that the magazines do articles on. The Mustang II seems to be
the best.

It does seem that you want to stay with the original straight axle. I wish
that I had tried mine longer than I did. If you stay with the straight axle
are you going to keep the drum brakes (with its original non-power)? What
about a sway bar? How are your kingpins holding up? The only reason I mention
these is because sometimes staying original (and sometimes easier) is as
expensive in the long run as going with an aftermarket Must II kit.

As for springs, go to a local spring shop in your area. There is one in
Memphis that saved me a bundle over the catalogs. Plus the shop I used works
on streetrods. They new what I needed and what might come up.

Glenn in TN

------------------------------

From: Ray or Fran Bell erols.com>
Subject: Horn Button
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 22:12:13 -0500

Got a half an half steering column, MOPAR bottom and a Ford upper half ..
(sounds like a girl I once dated, but that's another subject.) I'd like
to get the steering wheel horn button working and get rid of the thumb
button I have on my dashboard.
Several catalogs have springs, contacts, etc.; so I don't see that as any
problem. My question? Where/how the heck do I run the wiring?

RAY


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 10:31:02 -0500
From: "C. Greenlaw" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Horn Button



Ray or Fran Bell wrote:

> Got a half an half steering column, MOPAR bottom and a Ford upper half ..
> to get the steering wheel horn button working
> Several catalogs have springs, contacts, etc.; so I don't see that as any
> problem. My question? Where/how the heck do I run the wiring?
>

Most OEM horn buttons provide a ground path a for horn relay. Once you
get the column button working, and find the lead wire from the column, it
routes through the wiring harness to a relay on the firewall or inner fender.
A hot wire from a fused source runs into the relay. When you press the horn
button, the relay coil is grounded, and the relay contacts close, allowing
power to be passed to the horn.
With a lot push button (PB) add ons, like you now have, some clever soul
has removed the relay, and run a power lead to the push button and then to the
horn. In this case, you probably need a new relay to make everything work. If
you are lucky, the relay may have been retained and the after market PB is
still grounding the relay. In this case, just reconnect the column PB lead to
the relay.

47Fred


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 08:37:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Ed Ellston yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My new '49

Great adventure there Tulio. Is that the truck that
has been for sale for a long time on Excite? I'm glad
you have a 49 too.

Ed and the 49 Effie

--- Tulio jps.net> wrote:
> I just got back yesterday from Nebraska.... with a
> '49 F-1 in tow on an
> auto dolly. I took my '60 F-100 from San Jose, Ca
> to Scottsbluff,
> Nebraska on Monday.. got there Tuesday... left
> Wednesday and arrived....

---

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