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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:27:24 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:27:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #123
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:01:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott yahoo.com>
Subject: Site for missing titles
I was doing some searching through the net tonight and I came up with a
place that can get you a title. I don't know much about them but I
thought that some of you might be interested. The address is:
Do You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
34 Harley basket
I see a lot of people like myself are still using generators and regulators.
I grew up in a Ford garage and remember a half dozen cases of massive
wiring meltdown. All the cases occurred while the vehicle was unattended.
The best guesses as to the cause was that the cut-out relay in the
regulator failed to open when the engine was switched off and the battery
started discharging through the armature to ground. One or more wires in the
bundle would start to overheat and what followed was a chain reaction
meltdown. All the under dash and under hood wiring would have to be
replaced. The relays can stick on both 6V & 12V systems but the 12V systems
are almost a sure bet to self destruct as the voltage is higher and the
wiring much smaller.
If someone wanted to insure against this happening I believe a diode
inserted in series with the Bat. wire at the regulator or the Arm. wire
would do the job.
On another subject; It is wiser to use a circuit breaker for headlights
rather than a fuse. It is a matter of personal protection and not for the
sake of the vehicle.
I swapped in a rear axle from a '72 F250. It bolted right up without any modifications. I used the old clamps on the u bolts over the springs so that I didn't have to modify the shock locations. Otherwise the shock brackets on the later axle are different. Just cut them off the axle.
You may also have to change or shorten the drive shaft. I don't know as I also did an engine and transmission swap at the same time and had to change mine. I found one the correct length at a salvage yard and changed the u joints to match what I needed. Any F250 rear axle from 55 to 72 or 73 should work without major modifications. A lot of ratios are available from at least 456 to 354. This would allow you to keep the 8 bolt pattern on the wheels, but would present problems if you later do a front end change as you would probably have to stay with a clip from a F250 pickup if you want to keep 8 bolt wheels. Prices in this area fun in the $150 to $250 range at salvage yards for a F250 rear axle.
I have a 9" rear out of my 57 if you are close to Memphis. I don't know what
dimensions are across the "C" clips, but it should have the same bolt
diameter you have now (I think 5"). It has a 3.70:1 ratio.
Please help me!! I want to change the rearend in my F250 to something
higher geared. I need to know what will bolt up without changing spring
mounts, shock mounts etc.. I know it will probably change my bolt
pattern, but thats ok, I'll probably do a front end swap at some point
also. Thanks for any help!! Curt Morris 55Frog >>
End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #123
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