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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:18:17 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:18:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #122
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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In This Issue:
Re: 58 F100 Parking Lights
Re: how hot is hot?
Re: Air conditioning
Re: 300 vs. 302
Re: O/D Trannys
Re: Headlight Problem?
Fuse block& thanks
Re: 56 orig/round radio FS
Rearend swap for 55 F250
Re: Headlight Problem?
Re: dash gauge wiring, 6-12 volt
> I also have a 58 model and it's parking lights go out when the headlights
> are on. Hey, it's good to see someone else with a late 50's model!
> >Hi Gang!
> >I have a '58 F-100 that I bought not running about a year and a half
> >ago. It runs now, but I was wondering: when I turn the parking lights
> >on, They seem normal, but when I switch on the headlights, they go out.
> >Are they supposed to stay on with the headlights, or is what they're
> >doing normal. (I've rewired them with the rest of the truck, since a
> >rodent had previously feasted on my wiring harness.)
> >Any input is greatly appreciated.
Up until '65 or so nearly all parking lamps went out when the headlights
came on. It seems to me that the GTO was one of the first with constant
burning parking lamps, then the Feds stepped in and now all cars hav'em. On
early Ford switches, there are separate power leads for park/tail and
headlamps, later just one power feed. On the early switches, putting both
park and tail under one screw terminal (tail) works, on later ones, there is
often an extra spade terminal connected to the tailamp position that can be
used, just move the "p" wire and push it onto the extra spade.
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:40:20 -0400
From: "C. Greenlaw" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: how hot is hot?
"Abram H. Stauffer" wrote:
> A tech question here: On my trip to Carlisle I was keeping an eye on the
> temp gauge. I have a 239 V-8 with the fan shroud on and all the radiator
> rubbers (except the one that hangs from the hood). The stock gauge was
> consistently on the 3/4 mark (between the halfway mark and the 'H'). Is
> this too hot? or just right? After cruising at turnpike speeds the temp
> went up closer to the 'H' because of the revs the engine was making due
> to the 392 stock rearend so I slowed it down a bit. My question: is it
> OK for the temp gauge to be at the 3/4 mark consistently?
Abe, on my '57 292, the gauge used to un at 3/4 to out of sight. I
figured the radiator was shot (having changed, then removed the thermostat).
So I flushed it with "Sizzle" a product made for leaning boilers. After that
it was shot. Turned out the sender was no good. I put in another, and it ran
1/2 to 3/4 of the scale with occasional excursions to HOT after idling. This
year I put in a 5 blade flex fan from a 351 with AC. First time I ran it,
same deal as before, but now I had a contact thermometer. With the gauge
running near hot, the contact thermometer said 165 at the water neck to the
radiator, 170 on the head by the sender and 160 submerged in the radiator
fill neck. I decided biased on this that 1: Ford senders/gauges are junk, 2:
I'm not going to worry about it if I don't see steam, and 3: I'm going to
get aftermarket tenp gauge and replace my aftermarket vacuum gauge that I
don't pay much attention to anyway.
The point of all this rambling is just say those old gauges are not to be
trusted, get a thermometer and see what the engine temperature really is,
you can figure that the block temperature ought to be about 10 to 20 under
the water and the radiator filler neck inlet ought to be the close to the
same as the sender.
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning
I bought a unit from Old Air Products (817-531-2665).
It is cheaper and is easier to install than Vintage
Air. Also since you are dealing with the manufacturer
you can deal a bit. Their web site is
> From: thegman cfw.com
> Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 23:04:19 -0400
> Subject: Air conditioning
> Does anyone know who makes the "best" aftermarket
> a/c bolt in units for
> a 55 F100? Vintage Air seems to be the best known,
> it seems, but I was
> wondering about any others also.
Do You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:13:13 -0400
From: steve mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 300 vs. 302
I can understand your line of thinking, but I'm kind of wanting to stay
with the inline sixes; seems like they last forever. Of course, a nice v8
would be nice too.
At 03:08 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I just pulled the 223 in my 60 and I'm putting in a 302. I originally thought
>to put in a 300 but I found a deal on a 302/C6. The main problem with
>rebuilding the 223 is that you can't go to PAW or Northern for rebuild kits
>you have to go to one of the old truck suppliers and you will pay a bunch of
>money for them and some things you just can't get. The main problem with the
>300 is that it was a truck engine were the 302 was used in everything. Plus
>the 302 is cheaper to rebuild.
>302/C6 hope to have it on the road soon.
Just had to drop a note to share that Old Smokey made it back on the road this past weekend after a long winter in the garage for major heart, lung etc. replacement. He is running a 460/C6 with a new (to the truck) rear end. Went from 486 rear end to 373. Old Smokey sounds and runs good. It doesn't appear that the 460 will be real efficient with current gas prices. Can't tell yet cause I need a different speedo cable. It appears to get about 10 mpg. Only problem is that I may need to find a new name as he no longer smokes.
I have a 239 OHV V8 and truck 4 speed and 486 rearend if anyone is interested (cheap). Engine needs at least valve guides and maybe a rebuild.
Next winter the body will get work done. But oh sooo much fun to cruise, even when it is 100 degrees in Kansas. So far no trouble with overheating using the original radiator. Keeping my fingers crossed. I did get confused trying to tie the electronic ignition into the original switch and wiring though. Must of done it right as it runs.
I have somewhat of a problem. When I turn on my headlights, on my 55, after
letting it run for a few minutes, they will blink either very fast or very
slow. They worked fine, before I took the grill out to paint the truck.
After I reinstalled the grill, they started this. Also, if I push the dimmer
switch, nothing happens, they stay at the same brightness, no dimmer or
brighter. A friend of mine said that the dimmer switch itself is bad, but
why would that make the headlights blink? Could it be the dimmer switch or
headlight switch or what? Anybody have a clue as to what it may be? Any
help would be appreciated.
Thanks to you all for the info on the parking lights, I feel at ease
knowing that they're not off due to a crossed wire somewhere. I used a
painless wiring Basic fuse block. It came ready with the turn sig.
relay, headlight relay, etc. there are also hookups for A/C, dome light,
heater, and a bunch more that I may or may not use down the road. I
purchased this from Summit Racing Products (SummitRacing.com) for about
89.00, however you might be able to pick up one from the painless folks
themselves, and save a few $. (www.painlessperformance.com). the hardest
part was trying to find a place to mount it, that I wouldn't look at
6mo. later and say "Tim, you dummy...."(I mounted it on the firewall to
the right of the heater housing.)
I have an original round '56 radio for sale. This radio has all the dials
and chrome bezel. It has been professionally modified with transistors to
receive FM stereo as well as AM and works perfectly! The front face dial is
the original AM dial. Also includes the power box which sits on the
firewall, which is now a dummy. I can send digital photos if you are
interested. Price is $500.00 firm.
Please help me!! I want to change the rearend in my F250 to something
higher geared. I need to know what will bolt up without changing spring
mounts, shock mounts etc.. I know it will probably change my bolt
pattern, but thats ok, I'll probably do a front end swap at some point
also. Thanks for any help!! Curt Morris 55Frog
I'ld check for a good ground. Paint may have covered screw holes or ??
Don't know if you have a seperate ground wire, I'm thinking not. Also check
bullet connectors and couplers on each wire. They do have the new bucket
and cross-over wires and couplers at Sacremento Vintage Ford (think that's
Made big diff on my 56. Blinking is from generator pulses, show up with weak
From: LSTYR88 aol.com aol.com>
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 6:41 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Headlight Problem?
>I have somewhat of a problem. When I turn on my headlights, on my 55,
>letting it run for a few minutes, they will blink either very fast or very
>slow. They worked fine, before I took the grill out to paint the truck.
>After I reinstalled the grill, they started this. Also, if I push the
>switch, nothing happens, they stay at the same brightness, no dimmer or
>brighter. A friend of mine said that the dimmer switch itself is bad, but
>why would that make the headlights blink? Could it be the dimmer switch or
>headlight switch or what? Anybody have a clue as to what it may be? Any
>help would be appreciated.
>55 F100 Aqua
>Please remove this footer when replying.
In a message dated 7/8/2000 12:25:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
PWPTRUCK1 aol.com writes:
> I need to try to run my 6 volt gauges on a 12 volt system on
> my '52. Could someone point me in the right direction to do this?
Here's the direction --->> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/6to12to6/
End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #122
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