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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:18:17 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #122
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pre61-list Digest Mon, 10 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 122

In This Issue:
Re: 58 F100 Parking Lights
Re: how hot is hot?
Re: Air conditioning
Re: 300 vs. 302
Old Smokey
Re: O/D Trannys
Headlight Problem?
Re: Headlight Problem?
Fuse block& thanks
Re: 56 orig/round radio FS
Rearend swap for 55 F250
Re: Headlight Problem?
extended cabs
Re: dash gauge wiring, 6-12 volt

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:18:37 -0400
From: "C. Greenlaw" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 58 F100 Parking Lights



steve wrote:

> I also have a 58 model and it's parking lights go out when the headlights
> are on. Hey, it's good to see someone else with a late 50's model!

>
> >Hi Gang!
> >I have a '58 F-100 that I bought not running about a year and a half
> >ago. It runs now, but I was wondering: when I turn the parking lights
> >on, They seem normal, but when I switch on the headlights, they go out.
> >Are they supposed to stay on with the headlights, or is what they're
> >doing normal. (I've rewired them with the rest of the truck, since a
> >rodent had previously feasted on my wiring harness.)
> >Any input is greatly appreciated.

Up until '65 or so nearly all parking lamps went out when the headlights
came on. It seems to me that the GTO was one of the first with constant
burning parking lamps, then the Feds stepped in and now all cars hav'em. On
early Ford switches, there are separate power leads for park/tail and
headlamps, later just one power feed. On the early switches, putting both
park and tail under one screw terminal (tail) works, on later ones, there is
often an extra spade terminal connected to the tailamp position that can be
used, just move the "p" wire and push it onto the extra spade.

47 Fred


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:40:20 -0400
From: "C. Greenlaw" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: how hot is hot?



"Abram H. Stauffer" wrote:

> A tech question here: On my trip to Carlisle I was keeping an eye on the
> temp gauge. I have a 239 V-8 with the fan shroud on and all the radiator
> rubbers (except the one that hangs from the hood). The stock gauge was
> consistently on the 3/4 mark (between the halfway mark and the 'H'). Is
> this too hot? or just right? After cruising at turnpike speeds the temp
> went up closer to the 'H' because of the revs the engine was making due
> to the 392 stock rearend so I slowed it down a bit. My question: is it
> OK for the temp gauge to be at the 3/4 mark consistently?
>

Abe, on my '57 292, the gauge used to un at 3/4 to out of sight. I
figured the radiator was shot (having changed, then removed the thermostat).
So I flushed it with "Sizzle" a product made for leaning boilers. After that
it was shot. Turned out the sender was no good. I put in another, and it ran
1/2 to 3/4 of the scale with occasional excursions to HOT after idling. This
year I put in a 5 blade flex fan from a 351 with AC. First time I ran it,
same deal as before, but now I had a contact thermometer. With the gauge

running near hot, the contact thermometer said 165 at the water neck to the
radiator, 170 on the head by the sender and 160 submerged in the radiator
fill neck. I decided biased on this that 1: Ford senders/ gauges are junk, 2:
I'm not going to worry about it if I don't see steam, and 3: I'm going to
get aftermarket tenp gauge and replace my aftermarket vacuum gauge that I
don't pay much attention to anyway.

The point of all this rambling is just say those old gauges are not to be
trusted, get a thermometer and see what the engine temperature really is,
you can figure that the block temperature ought to be about 10 to 20 under
the water and the radiator filler neck inlet ought to be the close to the
same as the sender.

47 Fred


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning

Paul,

I bought a unit from Old Air Products (817-531-2665).
It is cheaper and is easier to install than Vintage
Air. Also since you are dealing with the manufacturer
you can deal a bit. Their web site is
www.oldairproducts.com.

Dan Lee

> From: thegman cfw.com
> Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 23:04:19 -0400
> Subject: Air conditioning
>
> Does anyone know who makes the "best" aftermarket
> > a/c bolt in units for
> a 55 F100? Vintage Air seems to be the best known,
> it seems, but I was
> wondering about any others also.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:13:13 -0400
From: steve mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 300 vs. 302

I can understand your line of thinking, but I'm kind of wanting to stay
with the inline sixes; seems like they last forever. Of course, a nice v8
would be nice too.

At 03:08 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote:

>Steve,
>I just pulled the 223 in my 60 and I'm putting in a 302. I originally thought
>to put in a 300 but I found a deal on a 302/C6. The main problem with
>rebuilding the 223 is that you can't go to PAW or Northern for rebuild kits
>you have to go to one of the old truck suppliers and you will pay a bunch of
>money for them and some things you just can't get. The main problem with the
>300 is that it was a truck engine were the 302 was used in everything. Plus
>the 302 is cheaper to rebuild.
>Bob Wood
>60 F100
>302/C6 hope to have it on the road soon.


------------------------------

From: "jacobsen" interkan.net>
Subject: Old Smokey
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:33:47 -0700


Hi All:

Just had to drop a note to share that Old Smokey made it back on the road this past weekend after a long winter in the garage for major heart, lung etc. replacement. He is running a 460/C6 with a new (to the truck) rear end. Went from 486 rear end to 373. Old Smokey sounds and runs good. It doesn't appear that the 460 will be real efficient with current gas prices. Can't tell yet cause I need a different speedo cable. It appears to get about 10 mpg. Only problem is that I may need to find a new name as he no longer smokes.....

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