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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:18:17 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:18:17 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: pre61-list digest users Reply-to: pre61-list Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #122 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Mon, 10 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 122 In This Issue: Re: 58 F100 Parking Lights Re: how hot is hot? Re: Air conditioning Re: 300 vs. 302 Old Smokey Re: O/D Trannys Headlight Problem? Re: Headlight Problem? Fuse block& thanks Re: 56 orig/round radio FS Rearend swap for 55 F250 Re: Headlight Problem? extended cabs Re: dash gauge wiring, 6-12 volt ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:18:37 -0400 From: "C. Greenlaw" Subject: Re: 58 F100 Parking Lights steve wrote: > I also have a 58 model and it's parking lights go out when the headlights > are on. Hey, it's good to see someone else with a late 50's model! > > >Hi Gang! > >I have a '58 F-100 that I bought not running about a year and a half > >ago. It runs now, but I was wondering: when I turn the parking lights > >on, They seem normal, but when I switch on the headlights, they go out. > >Are they supposed to stay on with the headlights, or is what they're > >doing normal. (I've rewired them with the rest of the truck, since a > >rodent had previously feasted on my wiring harness.) > >Any input is greatly appreciated. Up until '65 or so nearly all parking lamps went out when the headlights came on. It seems to me that the GTO was one of the first with constant burning parking lamps, then the Feds stepped in and now all cars hav'em. On early Ford switches, there are separate power leads for park/tail and headlamps, later just one power feed. On the early switches, putting both park and tail under one screw terminal (tail) works, on later ones, there is often an extra spade terminal connected to the tailamp position that can be used, just move the "p" wire and push it onto the extra spade. 47 Fred ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:40:20 -0400 From: "C. Greenlaw" Subject: Re: how hot is hot? "Abram H. Stauffer" wrote: > A tech question here: On my trip to Carlisle I was keeping an eye on the > temp gauge. I have a 239 V-8 with the fan shroud on and all the radiator > rubbers (except the one that hangs from the hood). The stock gauge was > consistently on the 3/4 mark (between the halfway mark and the 'H'). Is > this too hot? or just right? After cruising at turnpike speeds the temp > went up closer to the 'H' because of the revs the engine was making due > to the 392 stock rearend so I slowed it down a bit. My question: is it > OK for the temp gauge to be at the 3/4 mark consistently? > Abe, on my '57 292, the gauge used to un at 3/4 to out of sight. I figured the radiator was shot (having changed, then removed the thermostat). So I flushed it with "Sizzle" a product made for leaning boilers. After that it was shot. Turned out the sender was no good. I put in another, and it ran 1/2 to 3/4 of the scale with occasional excursions to HOT after idling. This year I put in a 5 blade flex fan from a 351 with AC. First time I ran it, same deal as before, but now I had a contact thermometer. With the gauge running near hot, the contact thermometer said 165 at the water neck to the radiator, 170 on the head by the sender and 160 submerged in the radiator fill neck. I decided biased on this that 1: Ford senders/gauges are junk, 2: I'm not going to worry about it if I don't see steam, and 3: I'm going to get aftermarket tenp gauge and replace my aftermarket vacuum gauge that I don't pay much attention to anyway. The point of all this rambling is just say those old gauges are not to be trusted, get a thermometer and see what the engine temperature really is, you can figure that the block temperature ought to be about 10 to 20 under the water and the radiator filler neck inlet ought to be the close to the same as the sender. 47 Fred ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:43:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: Re: Air conditioning Paul, I bought a unit from Old Air Products (817-531-2665). It is cheaper and is easier to install than Vintage Air. Also since you are dealing with the manufacturer you can deal a bit. Their web site is www.oldairproducts.com. Dan Lee > From: thegman > Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 23:04:19 -0400 > Subject: Air conditioning > > Does anyone know who makes the "best" aftermarket > a/c bolt in units for > a 55 F100? Vintage Air seems to be the best known, > it seems, but I was > wondering about any others also. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:13:13 -0400 From: steve Subject: Re: 300 vs. 302 I can understand your line of thinking, but I'm kind of wanting to stay with the inline sixes; seems like they last forever. Of course, a nice v8 would be nice too. At 03:08 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote: >Steve, >I just pulled the 223 in my 60 and I'm putting in a 302. I originally thought >to put in a 300 but I found a deal on a 302/C6. The main problem with >rebuilding the 223 is that you can't go to PAW or Northern for rebuild kits >you have to go to one of the old truck suppliers and you will pay a bunch of >money for them and some things you just can't get. The main problem with the >300 is that it was a truck engine were the 302 was used in everything. Plus >the 302 is cheaper to rebuild. >Bob Wood >60 F100 >302/C6 hope to have it on the road soon. ------------------------------ From: "jacobsen" Subject: Old Smokey Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:33:47 -0700 Hi All: Just had to drop a note to share that Old Smokey made it back on the road this past weekend after a long winter in the garage for major heart, lung etc. replacement. He is running a 460/C6 with a new (to the truck) rear end. Went from 486 rear end to 373. Old Smokey sounds and runs good. It doesn't appear that the 460 will be real efficient with current gas prices. Can't tell yet cause I need a different speedo cable. It appears to get about 10 mpg. Only problem is that I may need to find a new name as he no longer smokes. I have a 239 OHV V8 and truck 4 speed and 486 rearend if anyone is interested (cheap). Engine needs at least valve guides and maybe a rebuild. Next winter the body will get work done. But oh sooo much fun to cruise, even when it is 100 degrees in Kansas. So far no trouble with overheating using the original radiator. Keeping my fingers crossed. I did get confused trying to tie the electronic ignition into the original switch and wiring though. Must of done it right as it runs. Del (with smiles) 54 F250 "Old Smokey" ------------------------------ From: shortcircuit Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:10:48 -0400 Subject: Re: O/D Trannys Attention on the List: It appears that I was acdentally removed from the list and missed about a week of postings. This is a test to see if the list allows my post. If I'm received, could one of you tell me, If I use an adaptor plate intented to mount a T-5 to a flathead motor (using the original bell housing), could I run the Mercury 3+OD tranny? By the way, for the gentleman in WA State who offered the Toploader tranny; It was very kind of you to ask, but I'm located in Raleigh NC and it might prove to far to go. G-man, did you ever find the gas tank for your old panel? I may have to resort to the Isuzu option, and I haven't figured how to route the filler hose. Regards, James H. Boyd 53 F-100 Panel Hotrod Flathead! ------------------------------ From: LSTYR88 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:37:23 EDT Subject: Headlight Problem? Hi I have somewhat of a problem. When I turn on my headlights, on my 55, after letting it run for a few minutes, they will blink either very fast or very slow. They worked fine, before I took the grill out to paint the truck. After I reinstalled the grill, they started this. Also, if I push the dimmer switch, nothing happens, they stay at the same brightness, no dimmer or brighter. A friend of mine said that the dimmer switch itself is bad, but why would that make the headlights blink? Could it be the dimmer switch or headlight switch or what? Anybody have a clue as to what it may be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jason Maples 55 F100 Aqua Alabama ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: Headlight Problem? Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:36:03 CDT Check your ground. You may have painted the ground site and have insufficent contact. ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:40:49 -0600 From: Timothy Goodwin Subject: Fuse block& thanks Thanks to you all for the info on the parking lights, I feel at ease knowing that they're not off due to a crossed wire somewhere. I used a painless wiring Basic fuse block. It came ready with the turn sig. relay, headlight relay, etc. there are also hookups for A/C, dome light, heater, and a bunch more that I may or may not use down the road. I purchased this from Summit Racing Products (SummitRacing.com) for about 89.00, however you might be able to pick up one from the painless folks themselves, and save a few $. (www.painlessperformance.com). the hardest part was trying to find a place to mount it, that I wouldn't look at 6mo. later and say "Tim, you dummy...."(I mounted it on the firewall to the right of the heater housing.) Thanks again, Tim Goodwin '58 F-100 Colorado Springs ------------------------------ From: WBATTE Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:47:53 EDT Subject: Re: 56 orig/round radio FS Hello Folks: I have an original round '56 radio for sale. This radio has all the dials and chrome bezel. It has been professionally modified with transistors to receive FM stereo as well as AM and works perfectly! The front face dial is the original AM dial. Also includes the power box which sits on the firewall, which is now a dummy. I can send digital photos if you are interested. Price is $500.00 firm. Bill Batte ------------------------------ From: cmbcmorris Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:49:50 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Rearend swap for 55 F250 Please help me!! I want to change the rearend in my F250 to something higher geared. I need to know what will bolt up without changing spring mounts, shock mounts etc.. I know it will probably change my bolt pattern, but thats ok, I'll probably do a front end swap at some point also. Thanks for any help!! Curt Morris 55Frog ------------------------------ From: "Gary Perry" Subject: Re: Headlight Problem? Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:11:03 -0500 I'ld check for a good ground. Paint may have covered screw holes or ?? Don't know if you have a seperate ground wire, I'm thinking not. Also check the bullet connectors and couplers on each wire. They do have the new bucket wires and cross-over wires and couplers at Sacremento Vintage Ford (think that's right!). Made big diff on my 56. Blinking is from generator pulses, show up with weak ground. "G" -----Original Message----- From: LSTYR88 To: pre61-list Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 6:41 PM Subject: [pre61-list] Headlight Problem? >Hi > >I have somewhat of a problem. When I turn on my headlights, on my 55, after >letting it run for a few minutes, they will blink either very fast or very >slow. They worked fine, before I took the grill out to paint the truck. >After I reinstalled the grill, they started this. Also, if I push the dimmer >switch, nothing happens, they stay at the same brightness, no dimmer or >brighter. A friend of mine said that the dimmer switch itself is bad, but >why would that make the headlights blink? Could it be the dimmer switch or >headlight switch or what? Anybody have a clue as to what it may be? Any >help would be appreciated. > >Thanks >Jason Maples >55 F100 Aqua >Alabama >========================================================== >To unsubscribe: >http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: Oldtrukman Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 02:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: extended cabs Hi Ken. I hope you can convince him to do an article on what it takes to build an extended cab. I, and probably a few others of us, would love to get an experts input on this process. I'll keep an eye out for it. Thanks for you help. Rix56 'The Rat' 351C/C6 ------------------------------ From: JRFiero Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:15:44 EDT Subject: Re: dash gauge wiring, 6-12 volt In a message dated 7/8/2000 12:25:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, PWPTRUCK1 > I need to try to run my 6 volt gauges on a 12 volt system on > my '52. Could someone point me in the right direction to do this? Here's the direction --->> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/6to12to6/ ------------------------------ End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #122 *********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- <><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><> Ford Truck Enthusiasts now has "Ford Products Interchange" manuals in its online store. Two editions: 1950-1965 and.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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