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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list pre61-list); Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:08:34 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:08:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #121
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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In This Issue:
Parking lights on/off
Big back windows & extended cabs
Re: 223or 300
how hot is hot?
Carlisle Truck Nats
Re: Big back windows & extended cabs
Re: circuit breakers
ADMIN: Pictorial updates
Re: circuit breakers
Re: circuit breakers
You can make the parking lights be on with the headlights by simply
installing a jumper wire at the headlight switch from the park light
terminal to the headlight terminal.
If you don't want to do this you can buy a switch with this feature
built in, as in most of the newer types. If you go this route, you can
use your stock Ford knob/stalk and chrome ring on either GM or Ford
switches, since the ones I have done accept the same thread pattern for
the chrome ring. The original stalk might require a bit of grinding to
fit the new hole shape, etc, and a beer helps too.
Does anyone know who makes the "best" aftermarket a/c bolt in units for
a 55 F100? Vintage Air seems to be the best known, it seems, but I was
wondering about any others also.
Does anyone know who offers discounts on these rather expensive items?
There are many dealers throughout the country, and I am just trying to
avoid having to call them individually if someone else has found someone
willing to deal. Pls Email me off list if you think it is prudent.
It might be prudent. Since all the dealers seem to have nearly the exact
price on every item every time, they probably would cut off a dealer who
wouldn't be in on the fix.
From: Oldtrukman webtv.net (R. Pietsch)
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 21:04:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Big back windows & extended cabs
Are you going to post the pics of the extended cab pickup soon?
I am contemplating extending my cab and would really like to talk to
someone who has done one. Sounds like this is the right guy to talk to.
I just pulled the 223 in my 60 and I'm putting in a 302. I originally thought
to put in a 300 but I found a deal on a 302/C6. The main problem with
rebuilding the 223 is that you can't go to PAW or Northern for rebuild kits
you have to go to one of the old truck suppliers and you will pay a bunch of
money for them and some things you just can't get. The main problem with the
300 is that it was a truck engine were the 302 was used in everything. Plus
the 302 is cheaper to rebuild.
302/C6 hope to have it on the road soon.
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 10:42:56 -0400
From: "Abram H. Stauffer" oak.kcsd.k12.pa.us>
Subject: how hot is hot?
Here is another email that got bounced back to me as I was off the list.
Any help here is appreciated.
A tech question here: On my trip to Carlisle I was keeping an eye on the
temp gauge. I have a 239 V-8 with the fan shroud on and all the radiator
rubbers (except the one that hangs from the hood). The stock gauge was
consistently on the 3/4 mark (between the halfway mark and the 'H'). Is
this too hot? or just right? After cruising at turnpike speeds the temp
went up closer to the 'H' because of the revs the engine was making due
to the 392 stock rearend so I slowed it down a bit. My question: is it
OK for the temp gauge to be at the 3/4 mark consistently?
Thanks, Abe '54 F-100
It seems I was accidently removed from the list due to mail server
problems. Here is an email I wrote last week that did not make it so I
am sending it again now that I am on the list again.
Went to Carlisle last Friday and Saturday (June 23,24) for the Truck
Nats. Had a good time. The best part was that I drove my truck. It was
the longest trip I had taken in the old truck since probably 1982. It
did real well. From Lock Haven (PA) to Carlisle it took about 2 hours
and 15 minutes over 3 mountains (you guys out west would call them
molehills). I took the scenic route through PA's ridge and valley system
in Central PA. A beautiful drive. I spent the night at my Mom and Dad's
Lancaster County, which means I took the PA Turnpike East. Again the
truck did well. I couldn't cruise at top turnpike speeds but did OK, got
passed by many (with the occaisional thumbs up) and I passed some.
Abe '54 F-100
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 12:04:46 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Big back windows & extended cabs
At 12:04 AM 7/9/00 , you wrote:
> Are you going to post the pics of the extended cab pickup soon?
> I am contemplating extending my cab and would really like to talk to
>someone who has done one. Sounds like this is the right guy to talk to.
I only have pics from behind the truck. I'll see if I can
stop by and take more pictures and see if I can get Mike
to help do an article on this. He's done many extended
cab fabrications. Just got done with one last month on
I am converting my 6 volt to 12. I am stumped at what to do about the 6 volt
circuit breakers. On my 52, there is one for the headlights (I think) and
another for the voltage regulator. I doubt I can use the oldies for 12 volts.
What have you other guys done about this? I am using a 12 volt regulator and
have a 12 volt generator, not an alternator. Any ideas?
I just finished a total rewire and conversion to 12 Volts on my 52 F-1. The
circuit breakers are for the head lights and parking lights. You could
substitute a couple fuses. You will need a voltage reducer for the gages. I
got mine from NAPA. Echlin part number IR9. It is about $18.00 and is the
Echlin equivelant of the one Ford uses.
I used a complete wiring kit and it was well worth the investment. If you
would like more info send me a note off list.
From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com aol.com>
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, July 09, 2000 12:19 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] circuit breakers
>I am converting my 6 volt to 12. >
I used all the original breakers when converting my truck to 12V and have
never had a problem. Remember that 12V systems actually carry less current
load than 6V, that is why they are more efficient.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: [pre61-list] circuit breakers
> Hi all,
> I am converting my 6 volt to 12. I am stumped at what to do about the 6
> circuit breakers. On my 52, there is one for the headlights (I think) and
> another for the voltage regulator. I doubt I can use the oldies for 12
> What have you other guys done about this? I am using a 12 volt regulator
> have a 12 volt generator, not an alternator. Any ideas?
> To unsubscribe:
> Please remove this footer when replying.
> > Hi all,
> > I am converting my 6 volt to 12. I am stumped at what to do about the 6
> > circuit breakers. On my 52, there is one for the headlights (I think) and
> > another for the voltage regulator. I doubt I can use the oldies for 12
The original breakers will work fine on the system IF you keep the wire
sizes the same or larger. If the wire sizes are downsized to match 12 volt
ratings (1/2 the amperage, all else equal) the wire will not be properly
protected against long term overload, but will continue to provide short
circuit protection. Keep in mind that amperage has nothing to do with voltage.
Switches will also work fine, the panel light dimmer won't work as well.
End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #121
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