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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Fri, 23 Jun 2000 00:57:41 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 00:57:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server>
To: pre61-list digest users>
Reply-to: pre61-list
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #107
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pre61-list Digest Wed, 21 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 107

In This Issue:
POR15--semi gloss black vs. paint?
steering wheel paint
Re: adv. additions to FTE list
Re: POR15--semi gloss black vs. paint?
Monoleaf Springs
F1 Differentials
Re: adv. additions to FTE list
Ford 9 inch Posi
Re: Hubcaps


Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:06:59 -0700
From: "Hunter L. Wimmer">
Subject: POR15--semi gloss black vs. paint?

what does POR15 semi-gloss black look like?
if i paint my running boards with it, does it look like paint or like black jello?
do most folks top-coat it or is the semi-gloss black a good-enough final finish?
does the POR15 topcoat actually adhere, or is there some trick-application process?
opinions expected.
conjecture welcome.
hunter in shakeytown

p.s.: stuart faulkner is a super-nice guy (no kidding).


Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:18:30 EDT
Subject: steering wheel paint

Hello FTEer's
I am getting ready to paint my steering wheel. It is from a '50 model Ford
car and would like to go back with the original white/ivory paint. Is there a
special paint I need to use on the wheel? My paint guy already suggested
using a plastic primer that is used for exterior trim, but wasn't sure of the
type of paint to use. Help??

'52 F-3 (getting painted this weekend!)


Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:31:58 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno>
Subject: Re: adv. additions to FTE list

>thanks again Ken for your untiring attention to this group


Ray C


Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:46:47 -0400
From: Ray Cardogno>
Subject: Re: POR15--semi gloss black vs. paint?

>what does POR15 semi-gloss black look like? is the semi-gloss black a
>good-enough final finish?
>does the POR15 topcoat actually adhere, or is there some trick-application

I have used it and had the same questions. Por 15 is very thin and coats
well. It dries hard as a rock. So hard that things don't stick to it
well...... Unless you prime over it when it is still tacky to act as the
medium for the topcoat to stick to. It is not good as a finish coat as it
will turn grey quickly from the sun's UV. I like the semi-gloss for frames
and such as it does not reflect as many imperfections. Typical looking semi
black. I think the stuff is great for inside and ub=nderneath things to
preserve the metal.

Ray C


From: Rwilson50
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 23:35:59 EDT
Subject: Monoleaf Springs

EATON Spring here in Detroit(Across from old Tiger stadium) has a web site
now. they are tooled up to handle all our old trucks and cars as of Spring
2000 I settled for Parcel truck springs with 11leafs and pulled over half of
them out before Eaton was set up to serve us. Give them a try, their ads are
in all the mags.

Russ Wilson
49 F-1


Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:02:35 +1000
From: brian falkner>
Subject: F1 Differentials

I thought some on the truck list might be interested in the following
so here it is.

<--- In, ... wrote:
> I need to get my differential assembly out. The repair manual
> Is the rear end something that an amateur should stay away from?
> Dave
=you probably could come up with a spreader from any oldtimer ford
=mech.but your big problem will come putting the carrier back in with
=the proper set up you need to know about ring gear pattern ,back
=lash, pinon torque etc, best left for rear end specialist,GOOD LUCK
F1 differentials

Dave didnt give any details but;
We're talking about a Dana/Salisbury/Borg Warner,Spicer, Integral Housing
design diff here with the inspection cover plate, [used in 48-56 pickups &
in Station Wagons & Mercury & Lincoln from 49-56], which requires a housing
spreader.....unless you know another way.......and there usually is.

If you are just replacing damaged spider and or axle gears or removing a
broken axle end then you dont need to know about or get involved in the
The key to carrier bearing preload & more importantly correct backlash, is
controlled by one shim/spacer each side of the bearings...mix these up or
break them & you're in trouble.
You must mark the bearing caps, if not already identified & the spacers &
the bearing cups as they are removed. Keep them separated. Apply
corresponding marks on the housing in case you get confused about L or R
[it happens!].
Ford orientation marks on cap & housing should be the number 4, one pair
will be stamped sideways which should be the left side.

A good method for marking bearing cups & hard steel without damage is to
hook up a small jumper lead from a battery & scratch arc your ID marks
eliminating the possibility of a mixup....Murphy's always right behind you!.

Use pry bars to carefully lever the carrier out of the housing taking extra
care with the spacers. I never struck one that didnt come out this way.
Oh, it does help if the axles are removed first!.. :).

The ring gear [crown wheel] Must go back in the exact place it came from so
you need to mark it & the carrier too.

There's always a LOT of metal fragments hidden in pockets of the housing
when differential gears break up so get the inside as clean as you can
before assembly. If you dont have pressure cleaning equipment, cleaning &
removing metallic particles glued in by old gear oil can take almost as
long as the job itself!. The damn stuff ends up in the axle housing tubes

Note; Its best Not to get too carried away with the cleaning unless the
pinion assy is removed, [now that's NOT a job for the amateur]. If you're
sloshing solvent around with particles in tow, they could end up in the
pinion bearings. So keep the pinion flange UP whilst cleaning.
Sometimes its ok to just wipe away what you can with a cloth & let sleeping
dogs lie...if particles are embedded then they aren't going anywhere... but
I dont like doing that.
I like the idea of a magnet strategically placed in diff housings as well
as magnetic drain plugs.

When you've replaced the spiders, done all the cleaning, lubed the bearings
& cups ready for assembly, wished you could have just bought another good
diff, place the assy in position & assist with a rubber or plastic mallet.

This is a good time to count your finger tips as you'll need to be careful
to keep them attached to the first joint, there's a guillotine each side of
the carrier housing which was carefully designed!. A couple of decent sized
Phillips screw drivers, or what have you, inserted into the carrier ends is
a wise precaution.

Wind down the bearing cap bolt's evenly & torque to specs. If you don't
have a manual then get one!.

Here are 48-51 F1 torque specs:
ring gear to carrier bolts, size NC 3/8" torque 30-40 ft lbs
bearing cap to housing bolts NC 1/2" 60-70

General interest;
Those who have an 8", 9" or 9&3/8" diff have to "time" them. Yes, many
HYPOID ring & pinions have timing marks, usually an electric arc scratch as
described. One scratch or mark will be on one tooth of the pinion & a
corresponding mark between two teeth of the ring.

Kiwi Brian


Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:22:13 -0400
From: Ken Payne>
Subject: Re: adv. additions to FTE list

At 11:30 AM 6/21/00 , you wrote:

>don't think a few more lines of text is gonna annoy anyone... there is so
>much good useful information on our lists that it's worth it..
>I'm for anything that will help you continue the excellent job you're doing
>("you're" - being Ken AND Peggy). with the least amount of
>problems/headaches/personal cost.
>FTE list are the tops.... Haven't found anything on the web that matches
>all you have to do is look at the response numbers and dates of some of the
>other sites tech boards.... zero !!!
>thanks again Ken for your untiring attention to this group

Thanks John. It was a difficult decision, but the advertising
dollars on the web site just haven't been what they were 6
months ago and I had to take steps to keep the lists alive.
Who knows, maybe I can land a couple of large web site advertisers
and drop list sponsorship....

I'm in the process of working out a deal for products on the
web site that may help.



From: "O'Connell, Dennis M">
Subject: Ford 9 inch Posi
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:22:15 -0700

Hi all,

I've finally decided to change out the gears in my truck. Been running
2.88's with 31 inch tall tires. Just not helping that 429 run at all.

MY question for everyone is I've heard of a Detroit Locker, the older equal
lock, and trac loc. Any recommendations? This is a street truck, the
engine is built a little and I have a C6 tranny. I want to do it only once
so whatever is the best for street, driveability and strength is the way I
would like to go.

I may jump on it just once in awhile

Thanks ahead of time for your help.



Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:21:23 -0500
From: Chris/Jennifer Chambers>

HELP!! It is time to start wiring up the panel truck. I have the
original harness still intact, does anyone have a manual or diagram on
how all the wires go. I would like to start with the starter switch and
go from there. After that it is just lights and guages, my engine and
alternator is still hooked up. Anyand all help is greatly appreciated.


Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:49:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Hubcaps

Randy, I got 15" on my '48, same issue. I ended up getting moons from a
hubcap store in Seattle, I believe it was the House of Hubcaps. They are
at I paid $50 for four of
them, and then had to go back a week later for a fifth after I bent

Matt and Toulouse ('48 F-1)

> The wheels that I got with my '50 are 15" and stock hubcaps will not
> fit them. The "bumps" that hold the cap on are on the outside of the
> center raised section.
> Randy S.


End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #107
<><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><>
Ford Truck Enthusiasts now has "Ford Products Interchange"
manuals in its online store. Two editions: 1950-1965 and
1963-1974. Cross references thousands of Ford parts.

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