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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:00:59 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:00:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #105
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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If the frame is not rustied out bad I'd take it to a body shop.
Welding it will depend on how much "good metal" you have to work with.
Laura Nelson wrote:
> Dear Fellow Truckers,
> My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in
> the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is
> cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too. thanks, Laura Nelson
My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in
the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is
cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too.
If you can remove the wheels and touch the cracks with your hands, welding
them up will not be a problem. Most mechanics and body shops dont favor
doing this type of work. I guess it is not that common for them to do. It is
very easy and can be repaired as strong as before. No need to get rid of the
truck just because these stress cracks have appeared. If someone takes the
time to weld it back properly, it will be as good as it was. Even if you
have to pull the bed off, the job is not as difficult as your mechanic is
making it out to be. Usually this type of job takes more manual preparation
than the actual repairs do. If someone trys to short cut it, then you might
look at selling the truck very soon. Dont give up though, go to some
independant welding shops and ask for another opinion.
don't see why you have to sell and don't see why the repair should be that
expensive... I would think you could jack, bend, tweek the crack back
together, weld the crack then add a boxing plate on the inside and you have
restored the strength of the frame. If that doesn't seem enough to you,
fab or have a piece of channel cut to fit inside the frame rail and weld
it in.. even if it's in the curve of the rail, you can have a piece rolled
to fit... I think you're looking at a couple of hundred bucks tops...IMHO..
I think you're throwing the baby out with the bathwater.....any other
opinions out there ????
Regarding your cracked frame, sounds like the cracks may be too severe to
repair, but I had some on my '54 that I repaired myself.
First, I drilled a small hole at each end of each crack, to stop its
progress. Then I welded the crack up, and in some cases, welded a patch
over it. This was not a problem for me as I had the bed and cab removed at
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Don't despair. Before you put your truck down, check with a local street-rod
shop or a race-car shop that deals with circle-track sportsman type cars.
The sort of problem you describe is routine work for the latter.
Hemified '53 F-100
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:53:18 -0400
From: Fred Hooper concentric.net>
Subject: Re: 70 6EC 302
Never did see a reply to my question of what these markings would mean on a rear
end, Ford must have put them there for a reason?? Come on guys you can do it! 70
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 22:51:16 -0500
Subject: Re: cracked frame
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
In today's throw-away society everybody will tell you to junk it. But
when I think back to all the junk we continuously welded up/cobbled up to
keep our farm going as a kid, this is not the end of the world by any
means. Are you attached to your truck? Other than the frame cracks is
it in good shape? Or would it really be better to find another truck?
Only you can answer these questions.
To fix the truck 2 choices come to mind: 1.) Find a better frame and
swap it out (mucho labor). 2.) Find a reputable welder and repair the
frame (don't laugh). Mechanics typically aren't welders, and seen
through a different set of eyes the cracks may not be deemed terminal.
The longevity of the repair is directly related to the skill of the
welder. If the cracks are under the bed, it would be a good idea to
remove the bed first to give the welder the best access possible.
Sure, eventually all of our trucks will return to a pile of iron oxide.
The challenge is to stave that off as long as possible and keep enjoying
them for what they are.
PS. Love those 58 grills.....
>Dear Fellow Truckers,
> My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in
>the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is
>cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too.
> This breaks my heart, my horse has a broken leg.
>thanks, Laura Nelson
The easiest way is with mono springs but you will get about 4 to 5 inches of
drop. You could have stock springs made with a reverse eye which would give
you a inch or two. I've also heard of removing every other leaf in the stock
set of springs, which will give you a inch or two also. But you will lose
some load carring capacity. On the Isuzu tank the article I have they mount
it so the filler is on the side and I assume they make it so it fills from
the side. There are a couple of company's that make weld in gas cap doors
which with a panel truck would work better then it does on the old trucks
with single walled bed. For power steering you could find a 57-60 with it and
use it or there is a company that makes a kit that uses ford ram steering
parts ( used in late 60's early 70's mid size cars) you keep your steering
box and this replaces your drag link and tie rod. They cost $750 and you have
to come up with a ford steering pump. Also I've heard a couple of guys on
here use an early 80's Toyota 4x4 power steering box supposedly it is a
fairly easy refit, with the only custom peice being a pitman arm, which you
can buy from one of the parts companys. For a tilt wheel you can get one from
IDIDIT which you can get with just what you need. Or get one from a yard.
Either way it will fit as good as you want to, it just depends on how much
cutting and welding you want to do. The thing to remember is if you keep your
original steering box you will have to cut the steering wheel shaft, it is a
one piece from the box to the wheel.
One thing on the mono springs I heard a guy on here say he was told not to
use them on his panel because the where know to bust. I don't know I have a
set for my 60 but I took them off, it was to much of a drop for me. My truck
is a work truck, and while the did look good they will give you a harsher
ride. If I jwas you I'd do the every other leaf removal, even I you don't
want to drive it like that you will be able to tell if that is the drop you
want and then you can get springs that give it to you.
302 C6 and it will be on the road one of these days
From: "Mark Campbell" hotmail.com>
Subject: F1 - F3 interchangeable IFS?
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 08:46:50 CDT
Hey guys, I've got my heads and intake off to free up four valves that
were sticking (I'm in the middle of replacing one unit with tapet). In the
mean time, I was making plans for this 50' F3 I have. I currently installed
Durant's reversed eyed steel monoleaf springs on back and front. Lowered my
ride about 4 inches in the back and couple inches in front(They were made
for 1/2 Ton....so I have an F1 now). I would eventually like to install an
IFS. From the shop manual it looks like the frames of the F1 and F3 have
identical measurements in front end. Is this really the case (before I buy
a set-up)? and will rearend components interchange? What are the other
options for the F3?
Thanks in advance, Mark C.
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 08:14:10 -0500
From: Rob Linden luminet.net>
Subject: 59 Clutch
> I am having a puzzling problem with my stock '59 F100. One minute I have a
> clutch and the next I don't only to have it reappear and disappear in a
> never ending cycle.
It's a little tough to tell exactly what's going on from your
description, but I'd be prone to think that the problem is hydraulic...
and the fact that you say the truck gets little use supports this
My 59 only goes about 250 miles a year, and it now needs
clutch-hydraulic work again for the second time in less than 4 years.
When my system goes out, I can get clutch pedal briefly, but then the
system leaks down, the clutch engages itself, and it won't disengage
again until a little time has passed for the system to restore itself to
Here's the story: with the pedal depressed, fluid is leaking past the
seals in the master cylinder (most likely), slave cylinder, or possibly
When I parked my truck for long-term storage last fall, the clutch
worked fine. When I went to take it out this spring, the clutch had
I doubt if you will ever find a complete solution to this problem
(because the solution that Ford found was to return to mechanical clutch
linkage in 1961) but a couple of things should help:
1. Replace the master and slave with new components or -- better yet --
have the old ones sleeved with stainless steel. I know of a source for
this if you don't, but it ain't cheap, which is why I hoped to avoid it,
but now I don't think I can.
2. Replace all the seals, of course.
3. Use DOT 5 fluid in the hydraulic system. My experience with this is
that it "stores" much better than DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid, but don't expect
it to completely solve your problem.
4. Don't let the truck sit for long periods without using the clutch.
The truck doesn't have to be running, just give the pedal and the
hydraulics some exercise during the winter.
Good luck, but don't hope for a solution... only an improvement.
Rob, 59 F-100, "Babe, the Blue Ox"
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:47:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dennis Moody yahoo.com>
Subject: Mono-leaf springs and bumpers
I am planning to install 2 inch drop monoleaf springs on the front of
my 1951 F-1. I rember someone telling me you could not use the frame
mounted axle bumper will these springs. Is there any truth to this?
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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:59:25 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
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