 |
|
|
|
|
|
Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:00:59 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:00:59 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: pre61-list digest users Reply-to: pre61-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #105 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Mon, 19 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 105 In This Issue: Re: cracked frame Re: cracked frame cracked frame cracked frame Cracked frame Re: 70 6EC 302 Re: cracked frame Re: 60 Panel F1 - F3 interchangeable IFS? 59 Clutch Mono-leaf springs and bumpers ADMIN: Important FTE Announcement ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:56:55 -0400 From: eddieh compunet.net (Eddie Honeycutt) Subject: Re: cracked frame Laura, If the frame is not rustied out bad I'd take it to a body shop. Welding it will depend on how much "good metal" you have to work with. Good luck, eddie Laura Nelson wrote: > Dear Fellow Truckers, > > My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in > the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is > cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too. thanks, Laura Nelson > > ------------------------------ From: "Terry" Subject: Re: cracked frame Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:19:01 -0500 My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too. If you can remove the wheels and touch the cracks with your hands, welding them up will not be a problem. Most mechanics and body shops dont favor doing this type of work. I guess it is not that common for them to do. It is very easy and can be repaired as strong as before. No need to get rid of the truck just because these stress cracks have appeared. If someone takes the time to weld it back properly, it will be as good as it was. Even if you have to pull the bed off, the job is not as difficult as your mechanic is making it out to be. Usually this type of job takes more manual preparation than the actual repairs do. If someone trys to short cut it, then you might look at selling the truck very soon. Dont give up though, go to some independant welding shops and ask for another opinion. ------------------------------ From: jniolon uss.com Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:00:59 -0500 Subject: cracked frame laura, don't see why you have to sell and don't see why the repair should be that expensive... I would think you could jack, bend, tweek the crack back together, weld the crack then add a boxing plate on the inside and you have restored the strength of the frame. If that doesn't seem enough to you, fab or have a piece of channel cut to fit inside the frame rail and weld it in.. even if it's in the curve of the rail, you can have a piece rolled to fit... I think you're looking at a couple of hundred bucks tops...IMHO.. I think you're throwing the baby out with the bathwater.....any other opinions out there ???? something to think about anyway john ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:17:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Winford Rister Subject: cracked frame Laura, Regarding your cracked frame, sounds like the cracks may be too severe to repair, but I had some on my '54 that I repaired myself. First, I drilled a small hole at each end of each crack, to stop its progress. Then I welded the crack up, and in some cases, welded a patch over it. This was not a problem for me as I had the bed and cab removed at the time. Good luck! - Winford Rister McKinney Texas 54F100(in progress) ______________________________________________ FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com Sign up at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup ------------------------------ From: "Mike Bishop" Subject: Cracked frame Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:20:31 -0700 Laura; Don't despair. Before you put your truck down, check with a local street-rod shop or a race-car shop that deals with circle-track sportsman type cars. The sort of problem you describe is routine work for the latter. Mike Bishop Hemified '53 F-100 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:53:18 -0400 From: Fred Hooper Subject: Re: 70 6EC 302 Never did see a reply to my question of what these markings would mean on a rear end, Ford must have put them there for a reason?? Come on guys you can do it! 70 6EC 302...... Fred hotrod'56 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 22:51:16 -0500 Subject: Re: cracked frame From: Brett L Habben Laura, In today's throw-away society everybody will tell you to junk it. But when I think back to all the junk we continuously welded up/cobbled up to keep our farm going as a kid, this is not the end of the world by any means. Are you attached to your truck? Other than the frame cracks is it in good shape? Or would it really be better to find another truck? Only you can answer these questions. To fix the truck 2 choices come to mind: 1.) Find a better frame and swap it out (mucho labor). 2.) Find a reputable welder and repair the frame (don't laugh). Mechanics typically aren't welders, and seen through a different set of eyes the cracks may not be deemed terminal. The longevity of the repair is directly related to the skill of the welder. If the cracks are under the bed, it would be a good idea to remove the bed first to give the welder the best access possible. Sure, eventually all of our trucks will return to a pile of iron oxide. The challenge is to stave that off as long as possible and keep enjoying them for what they are. Good Luck, Brett PS. Love those 58 grills..... >Dear Fellow Truckers, > My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in >the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is >cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too. > This breaks my heart, my horse has a broken leg. >thanks, Laura Nelson ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: BOBWOOD536 aol.com Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 04:36:35 EDT Subject: Re: 60 Panel Chris, The easiest way is with mono springs but you will get about 4 to 5 inches of drop. You could have stock springs made with a reverse eye which would give you a inch or two. I've also heard of removing every other leaf in the stock set of springs, which will give you a inch or two also. But you will lose some load carring capacity. On the Isuzu tank the article I have they mount it so the filler is on the side and I assume they make it so it fills from the side. There are a couple of company's that make weld in gas cap doors which with a panel truck would work better then it does on the old trucks with single walled bed. For power steering you could find a 57-60 with it and use it or there is a company that makes a kit that uses ford ram steering parts ( used in late 60's early 70's mid size cars) you keep your steering box and this replaces your drag link and tie rod. They cost $750 and you have to come up with a ford steering pump. Also I've heard a couple of guys on here use an early 80's Toyota 4x4 power steering box supposedly it is a fairly easy refit, with the only custom peice being a pitman arm, which you can buy from one of the parts companys. For a tilt wheel you can get one from IDIDIT which you can get with just what you need. Or get one from a yard. Either way it will fit as good as you want to, it just depends on how much cutting and welding you want to do. The thing to remember is if you keep your original steering box you will have to cut the steering wheel shaft, it is a one piece from the box to the wheel. One thing on the mono springs I heard a guy on here say he was told not to use them on his panel because the where know to bust. I don't know I have a set for my 60 but I took them off, it was to much of a drop for me. My truck is a work truck, and while the did look good they will give you a harsher ride. If I jwas you I'd do the every other leaf removal, even I you don't want to drive it like that you will be able to tell if that is the drop you want and then you can get springs that give it to you. Bob Wood 60 F100 302 C6 and it will be on the road one of these days ------------------------------ From: "Mark Campbell" Subject: F1 - F3 interchangeable IFS? Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 08:46:50 CDT Hey guys, I've got my heads and intake off to free up four valves that were sticking (I'm in the middle of replacing one unit with tapet). In the mean time, I was making plans for this 50' F3 I have. I currently installed Durant's reversed eyed steel monoleaf springs on back and front. Lowered my ride about 4 inches in the back and couple inches in front(They were made for 1/2 Ton....so I have an F1 now). I would eventually like to install an IFS. From the shop manual it looks like the frames of the F1 and F3 have identical measurements in front end. Is this really the case (before I buy a set-up)? and will rearend components interchange? What are the other options for the F3? Thanks in advance, Mark C. ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 08:14:10 -0500 From: Rob Linden Subject: 59 Clutch > I am having a puzzling problem with my stock '59 F100. One minute I have a > clutch and the next I don't only to have it reappear and disappear in a > never ending cycle. Paul: It's a little tough to tell exactly what's going on from your description, but I'd be prone to think that the problem is hydraulic... and the fact that you say the truck gets little use supports this notion. My 59 only goes about 250 miles a year, and it now needs clutch-hydraulic work again for the second time in less than 4 years. When my system goes out, I can get clutch pedal briefly, but then the system leaks down, the clutch engages itself, and it won't disengage again until a little time has passed for the system to restore itself to equilibribum. Here's the story: with the pedal depressed, fluid is leaking past the seals in the master cylinder (most likely), slave cylinder, or possibly both. When I parked my truck for long-term storage last fall, the clutch worked fine. When I went to take it out this spring, the clutch had failed again. I doubt if you will ever find a complete solution to this problem (because the solution that Ford found was to return to mechanical clutch linkage in 1961) but a couple of things should help: 1. Replace the master and slave with new components or -- better yet -- have the old ones sleeved with stainless steel. I know of a source for this if you don't, but it ain't cheap, which is why I hoped to avoid it, but now I don't think I can. 2. Replace all the seals, of course. 3. Use DOT 5 fluid in the hydraulic system. My experience with this is that it "stores" much better than DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid, but don't expect it to completely solve your problem. 4. Don't let the truck sit for long periods without using the clutch. The truck doesn't have to be running, just give the pedal and the hydraulics some exercise during the winter. Good luck, but don't hope for a solution... only an improvement. Rob, 59 F-100, "Babe, the Blue Ox" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:47:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Dennis Moody Subject: Mono-leaf springs and bumpers I am planning to install 2 inch drop monoleaf springs on the front of my 1951 F-1. I rember someone telling me you could not use the frame mounted axle bumper will these springs. Is there any truth to this? Dennis ===== Zeener96 yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:59:25 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Important FTE Announcement The Ford Truck Enthusiasts have grown to a point where the mailing lists are in need of sponsors to cover the large server bandwidth fees that the lists are incurring. In the near future, there will be text sponsorship notices at the top of the digests and occasionally we'll run one on the live list for a day. As with the web site banner ads, sponsors will not have influence on content or editorial policy. Regards, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|