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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list pre61-list); Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:29:54 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:29:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2000 #104
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:16:09 -0400
From: "Paul J. Donadio" maristb.marist.edu>
Subject: Mystery clutch
Hello Fellow Ford Truck Enthusiasts,
I am having a puzzling problem with my stock '59 F100. One minute I have a
clutch and the next I don't only to have it reappear and disappear in a
never ending cycle. When the clutch "goes south" I have to shut the truck
off to get it in first or reverse; then, upon starting the truck, the
clutch only partially disengages.
The clutch and pressure plate have less than 2,000 miles on them and the
master and slave cylinders were rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago. The
truck is rarely used and seems to have developed the problem during the
winter months when it was stored.
Sounds like you may have had some moisture in one of the clutch cylinders
and the cylinder walls have rusted a little allowing the fluid to bypass the piston.
Using a brake hone or some fine sandpaper to clean the cylinder walls should stop this..
57 F-250 272 4SP 455 Dually
"Paul J. Donadio" wrote:
> Hello Fellow Ford Truck Enthusiasts,
> I am having a puzzling problem with my stock '59 F100. One minute I have a
> clutch and the next I don't only to have it reappear and disappear in a
> never ending cycle. When the clutch "goes south" I have to shut the truck
> off to get it in first or reverse; then, upon starting the truck, the
> clutch only partially disengages.
Hello again guys,
Well I have been working feverishly for about 2 weeks now and the panel
body('60) is back on the truck frame like it was meant to be. I
stripped the pickup down to the frame and sandblasted away for about 45
minutes, then I sprayed the clean frame with some black antirust
enamel. Now that I have the body on the frame I need to bring the front
end down at least 2 inches. Is there an easy way to lower the straight
axle set up without making a big mess. If it can't be done easily and
safely I just won't mess with it
I am also interest in the Isuzu gas tank, does this put the filler cap
in the center of the back of the bed? I would also like power steering
and a tilt wheel. Has anyone done any swaps lately, something out of a
junkyard maybe? I have inlaws that run several junk yards and could
obtain a tilt wheel if I knew whichone to look for.
How is the wheelbase measured on a truck.? From what points ?
From: "Carver" ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: 31 Flatbed FS Sacramento Area
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:03:53 -0700
Spotted a few gems in the Grass Valley paper today:
(30 miles east of Sacramento)
Not all trucks, but so what . . . most are
'31 Ford Flatbed Runs, good cond, $3500 530-478-0258
(also a '53 D*dg* powerwagon)
'19 Ford Model T Speedster (no price) 530-432-1418
'62 Ford T-Bird hardtop, orgi paint 2nd owner, 96K miles
$5500 obo 530-432-0797
'73 ford T-bird Original cond $1800 530-639-2480
'61 F250 V8, 4sp, lumber rack, tow hitch,
needs a head gasket, $400 530-292-1764 eves
'80 Ford PU runs great $2500 obo 530-639-2480
(hmmmmm . . . . same number as the '73 t-bird)
the following is really how the ad reads:
Grandpa's ol' truck! '78 Ford F250
Camper special, AC, PS, PB, 36,728 orig miles
Like new, includes camper $3500 firm 530-272-6831
Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
From: BOBWOOD536 aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 06:50:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Isuzu tank
The article I have says you have to make a cross piece and that the tank
should fit between the rails with out raising the bed. As far as the gas
gauge the 91 trooper came with the gauge in the center console and it looked
like a 1 1/2" gauge, what I thought on doing was putting it in a single gauge
bezel and hanging it from the bottom of the dash.When I put electronic oil
and water gauges in my 60 I went to the yard and got a another panel and
intrurment cluster and removed the glass and gauges and reassemblyed it and
put a 2 1/8" hole saw in my drill press and very carefully drilled out the
openings. They were 2" opening stock. I then cut a piece of acrylic the same
size as the glass and installed it and then drill the holes agian so the
gauges would fit from out side the panel so the only stock gauges I have are
the gas gauge and the speedo.
PS sorry I got carried away.
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:39:18 -0500
From: Laura Nelson gsbs3.gs.uth.tmc.edu>
Subject: cracked frame
Dear Fellow Truckers,
My mechanic pointed out that my 1958 F100 has a cracked frame in
the rear on one side, cracked all the way through on the left, and is
cracking, but not completely on the right rear side too. We crawled under
the truck and I saw it for myself, but I'll need to crank the truck up and
take the wheels off to REALLY see it well. He said it would be very
difficult to repair. This breaks my heart, my horse has a broken leg. I'm
not surprised, it hasn't felt very sturdy back there for quite some time,
it "skitters" alot in the rear going over bumps and potholes, which there
is an EXCESS of here in Houston.
I'm writing in for advice. I've already realized I'll have to get
rid of it eventually, but am wondering if it is worth trying to sell
intact, the 292 engine is in GREAT shape. I don't have the patience or
knowledge to keep it around and sell it bit by bit as parts. I'm curious
if anyone out there is interested in it.
thanks, Laura Nelson
End of pre61-list Digest V2000 #104
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