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perf-list Digest Mon, 19 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 039

In This Issue:
Re: Header Woes !
Re: Header Woes !
exhaust bolts
Re: Header Woes !
460 and C-6
Re: 460 and C-6
Re: Header Woes !
Re: 302 questions
E.F.I. stumbling
Re: E.F.I. stumbling
Re: E.F.I. stumbling

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogginf350 aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:48:59 EST
Subject: Re: Header Woes !

yes after removal of the intake and any related accesories you should be able
to remove the heads with the manifolds.



------------------------------

From: Bogginf350 aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:49:55 EST
Subject: Re: Header Woes !

I forgot one thing. better wear some lead boots when you try to lift those
babies over the fenderwells whole with the manifolds.... hehe



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: exhaust bolts
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:08:15 -0600

Gary Lee writes:  >>. On one side 5 out of 8 bolts are loose, 2snapped the
heads off and 1 is so corroded,none of my sockets will snag it.<<

Try a Metric socket just smaller than the SAE #.  You might even have
to tap it on lightly with a hammer..

>>Can the heads be lifted with the manifolds and then dealt with on the bench?<<

Yes!!..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Header Woes !
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:17:58 -0800


All I can say here is that it is easier to work on it on the bench and a lot
easier on your knuckles but watch your back as they said.  More mechanics
get injured this way that all other ways combined, even just lifting
batteries.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>   Any and all suggestions on manifold removal will be welcomed. Can the
> heads be lifted with the manifolds and then dealt with on the bench?
>  Failure and dynamite are not an option. TIA in NYC


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:59:54 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 460 and C-6


Well it looks like I will be getting my 460 and C-6 from a fellow list
member, better then that I will be getting the whole truck.  It is a 77
F250 2x4,

1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it ""pull!!!!""" my 15,000
lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70 mph on the interstate, up the
mountains etc..  I want my cake and to eat it too.

2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?

3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
77 F250?  Pros and cons?

TIA

PS.. I received many responses, including this one to my paid classified
ad I placed with FTE.  I feel that there isn't a better bunch of people
out there then FTE's list people.  I would rather pay a couple bucks and
place an ad here and get good responses from great people then place it
in some paper or web site where I don't know anyone and could get god
knows what.
--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:34:48 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6


It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA

"William (Tony) Whited" wrote:

> Well it looks like I will be getting my 460 and C-6 from a fellow list
> member, better then that I will be getting the whole truck.  It is a 77
> F250 2x4,
>
> 1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it ""pull!!!!""" my 15,000
> lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70 mph on the interstate, up the
> mountains etc..  I want my cake and to eat it too.
>
> 2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
> What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?
>
> 3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
> 77 F250?  Pros and cons?
>
> TIA

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 22:11:30 -0800
From: Dan Laray <dlaray earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Header Woes !


Remove the carb and use bolts on the intake. Lift everything out with a
hoist. BTW, rather than have a shop drill your heads out, there is a process
that can burn out the old bolts without harming the surrounding area. invest
in ARP or stage 8 bolts and use antiseize, then enjoy your headers.
Dan

gary l gordon wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Hi List,
>  I'm removing the stock exhaust manifolds on my 86/460 (F250), to fit
> Hedman Hedders. On one side 5 out of 8 bolts are loose, 2snapped the
> heads off and 1 is so corroded,none of my sockets will snag it.
>  On the other side,today after removing the heat shield (successfully),
> the first bolt snapped deep inside and the next 4 were reluctant and I
> didn't press the point. 1 came out like a breeze. I stopped about here
> and checked the Summit catalog and saw the prices for heads!!! I think
> I'll work with what I have for now.
>   Seems the studs and nuts that held the shield and dipstick on either
> side get corroded and wind up quite undersized and a bit round as opposed
> to hex. Additionally the broken studs need to be drilled. I'm resigned to
> pull the heads and have a local shop put the heads in order.
>   Any and all suggestions on manifold removal will be welcomed. Can the
> heads be lifted with the manifolds and then dealt with on the bench?
>  Failure and dynamite are not an option. TIA in NYC
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:40:52 -0800 (PST)
From: shane san miguel <v8pinto yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 302 questions


The timing marks may or may not be ok.  You have to match the balancer
to the timing cover, year wise, and the water pump to the cover, year
wise, for everything to work.  Sounds confusing but here's the skinny.
Three bolt balancers had the timing pointer on the driver's side with
the water pump exiting on the passenger side.  With a four bolt
balancer, the water pump should exit on the driver's side with the
pointer being on the passenger side.  So the balancer for this combo
would be marked to match up with where the passenger side pointer is
expected to be.  If you mix and match, who knows what you'll end up
with.

My guess is with an 86 cover, early 70's FOUR bolt balancer, and
drivers side water pump exit, you'll be ok.  I would confirm though by
using the "pull a spark plug, insert a stick, turn motor by hand and
mark balancer" method of timing confirmation.  Just make sure you use a
properly calibrated stick  ;)

As for the pan.  It sounds like a rear sump design.  That means a
timing cover mounted dip stick will not work, there's nowhere for the
stick to go.  Rear sump pans used the block mounted oil dip stick.  You
can  drill your block (a lot of work because I would do it in
combination with a tear down) or figure something else out....  The
rear sump pan should have a sensor in the drivers side of it that will
tell you when you're one quart low.  And that's ok for a level
indicator.  I think I'd start there.  And make sure you have an oil
pressure gauge.

Shane
55' F100 5.0
15.51 87
306 Pinto N2O
--- Brian A <richat22 hotmail.com> wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I have finally gotten my truck running pretty good now but no time to
> play
> with it.  Got a couple questions about it though.  It's an old block
> (early
> 70's guess) with the 2v heads
>
> I put an 86 T-bird front timing and accesory set on it and a timing
> pointer
> for the t-bird.  Will the timing marks be right?  I think the
> balancer is
> off the tbird as well.
>
> It has the old dual sump ford pan that i believe came out of an ltd
> or
> pinto.  does this sound right?  what is the capacity of the engine
> oil with
> this pan?  I have the timing cover dipstick but the dipstick they
> sent me
> was wrong.  too long for this pan.  so my marks are off.  I have been
>
> keeping 6 quarts in it plus one for the remote filter kit.
>
>
> TIA guys
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Brian
> Southeastern Electronics
> kf4obc
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://southeastern.webjump.com
>
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------------------------------

From: ReelThief aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:40:24 EST
Subject: E.F.I. stumbling

I have a 1993 F-150 with a 302 e.f.i. It`s all stock with 98,000 miles. Since
about 20,000 miles it has developed a stumble. The stumble occurs when you
accelerate after idling for anyting over approx 5 minutes.It feels like a
large hesitation in the fuel delivery.If you shut off and re-start the engine
before accelerating, it does not stumble(almost as if a sensor has been
reset).After driving for a few minutes, everything is fine again until you
sit idle again for several minutes.I`ve changed plugs,wires,cap,rotor and
checked timing and if it was running hot,all was fine.Two dealers could find
nothing wrong and the check engine light does not come on when this occurs.
Also if you just stop for a light/stop sign breifly, it does not happen. Any
help would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:55:43 EST
Subject: Re: E.F.I. stumbling

Posibly O2 sensor? Im not the greatest with Fords efi stuff, or Id have my
dads 88 E-350 running better.  His truck has been a collection of problems,
each one helping out, even though the onboard diagnostic showed nuthing
wrong. We replaced the coolant temp sensor (not to be confused with the
sending unit for the guage), due to smoke after warmup.  Then we tackled the
rough idle by installing new plugs.  After that it seemed to run ok, but
would hesitate on acceleration, and die at stop lights.  The O2 sensor fixed
the hesitation, and it turned out to be a bad dizzy that was casung it to die
out at lights.  Now my problems are all around keepin both fuel tanks
running.  The rear pump keeps burning up.  But anyhow, I'd go ahead and do
the 02 sensor if you havent already.  Just seems like at an idle the O2
sensor might be over leaning the engine out.  I wish I knew more about these
things, Itd make my job a lot easier.

Darrell  & Tweety



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 16:48:01 EST
Subject: Re: E.F.I. stumbling

I would check the fuel filter, run some GOOD Fuel injector cleaner through
it. I would also check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage and make
sure that it set to no higher than .98 volts. Also...by the way, have you
checked the Air filter lately?


Better to be a racer for a moment, than a spectator for a lifetime
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
ClubFTE #57
NLOC #484
2000 #4 Top Truck
1999 #2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.flareside.com
ICQ#58060858



------------------------------

End of perf-list Digest V2001 #39
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