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Subject: perf-list Digest V2001 #14
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------------------------------------
perf-list Digest Thu, 01 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 014

In This Issue:
Re: Ranger tires
Re: Ranger tires
Re: Ranger tires
leaf spring modification

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From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:54:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Ranger tires


>It's gonna be time to put new treads on my 94 Ranger SC soon, and I wanted to
know what other sizes you guys have used on your trucks.  I'd like to get something
a little wider than the stock 225/70/14, but I'd like to stay close to the same
overall diameter (certainly no shorter).  Somethng in about a 245 or so... give
me some ideas.  They will need fit on the stock wheels.


I'm not sure how wide the stock wheels are, but if you drive it in the winter
(snow/ice/slush/etc.) my boss who has one says you don't really want to go much
wider than stock, even with a trac-lok.  While I may disagree to an extent,
it really will be something you'll have to watch out for because the back end
is so light on pickups.... also a general rule is keep the tire within 2" of
the rim, the shorter the profile, the closer to rim size it should be.  Since
I don't know the Ranger's rim width on a 14" I can't tell you.

>Also, what other models could i possibly grab larger front and/or rear swaybars
off of?  I was thinkin possibly a Splash, but am unsure.  I also know some of
the Bronco IIs came with rear bars, if they would be compatible.  The truck
has a lot of body roll (to me anyway), and I'd like to eliminate some of that,
as well as the overwhelming understeer.

Understeer ?  On a pickup ?  Try pressing on the gas, maybe that'll solve the
understeer problem ... seriously though pickups are light enough in the rear
that unless you're getting some major body roll it'll break loose first.  Check
your shocks and see if they might need replacing.  Sway bars can be used to
help tune a suspension, but really the springs should limit the roll while the
shocks control the rate that the roll happens ... right now I've got 1 Rancho
5000 on the left rear and one no-name 6+year old shock on the right rear, believe
me there is a huge difference in cornering left versus right.  If I ever get
enough time to cut the old no-name off I'll ahve a very nice handling truck
again that still has roll, but not nearly as quick as it used to be.  I'm seriously
debating whether I need to add the sway bars I've got now or not because it
is so much nicer.

Check the Ranger's with towing packages, they may've come with rear sway bars
on them too ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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------------------------------

From: "Greg Hopper" <ghopper hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Ranger tires
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 15:14:47 -0600


Yes, understeer on a pickup.  I promise it isn't hard to make those 14"
Goodyear Wranglers squeal in a corner.  Most every vehicle comes from the
factory setup to understeer, to keep regular drivers out of trouble.  And
with the open diff and relatively low power output, pressing the gas only
accomplishes one of two things:  if you're goin slow enough, it breaks the
inside tire loose, and if you're goin fast enough, it hooks and just
lightens the front end, making it push worse.  It might work if you're
drivin on the hairy edge, but I don't drive that fast...=)
Don't care to invest the time or money into lowering it or swapping springs
or anything.  Just hopin to find some cheap easy solutions to a pretty minor
problem...
later
dave


>Understeer ?  On a pickup ?  Try pressing on the gas, maybe that'll solve
the
>understeer problem ... seriously though pickups are light enough in the
rear
>that unless you're getting some major body roll it'll break loose first.
Check
>your shocks and see if they might need replacing.  Sway bars can be used to
>help tune a suspension, but really the springs should limit the roll while
the
>shocks control the rate that the roll happens ... right now I've got 1
Rancho
>5000 on the left rear and one no-name 6+year old shock on the right rear,
believe
>me there is a huge difference in cornering left versus right.  If I ever
get
>enough time to cut the old no-name off I'll ahve a very nice handling truck
>again that still has roll, but not nearly as quick as it used to be.  I'm
seriously
>debating whether I need to add the sway bars I've got now or not because it
>is so much nicer.



------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:42:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Ranger tires


>  Most every vehicle comes from the
>factory setup to understeer, to keep regular drivers out of trouble.

I'm well aware of how most vehicles come from the factory, if you notice my
sig, my other car is a major understeering pig from the factory.  I also autocross,
so its always fun to watch people try and deal with it.

> And
>with the open diff and relatively low power output, pressing the gas only
>accomplishes one of two things:  if you're goin slow enough, it breaks the

>inside tire loose, and if you're goin fast enough, it hooks and just
>lightens the front end, making it push worse.

Ah, open differential, throw a trac-lok in it and you'll solve the problem ;)


> It might work if you're
>drivin on the hairy edge, but I don't drive that fast...=)

Where's the fun in that ?

>Don't care to invest the time or money into lowering it or swapping springs

>or anything.  Just hopin to find some cheap easy solutions to a pretty minor

>problem...

The swaybars may help with it, but you'll probably want to try just the rear
bar first as that will help with the understeer problem.  I would seriously
recommend some "good" shocks for it too, some high end Monroe's (NOT SensACrap!),
or a more performance oriented shock.  A trac-lok would also make it much more
fun to drive, check the local scrap yard, they may have a diff in there that
will have that already in it, just swap the entire housing then ... not the
easiest job, but definitely a worthwhile mod if you're trying to push things
at all.

I'd also like to plug the SCCA SoloII category, take your truck out there sometime
and have a blast.  Since you've got a Ranger they'll even let you run, my Ranger
(a full size) is pretty much sidelined except for the ice events occasionally.
It will really let you learn about car control and what the vehicle will do
on the edge.



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "JAMES MERLO" <JJKMER worldnet.att.net>
Subject: leaf spring modification
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 19:47:25 -0600


I got a very good deal on a 84 F350 that had a steel flat bed on it.  This
was way too much truck but the deal was so good that I replaced the flatbed
with a regular bed and put a single wheel/tir in the rear.  I couldn't be
happier, except....

I would like to remove a couple of the leaves in the rear leaf spring.  I
know the U bolts need to be cut  off, also I know that the center bolt for
the springs need to be removed and the straps on the outer edge of the
springs needs to be modified....my questions are

-when I put in a new center bolt, it appears to be threaded rod-  is is
just a piece of all thread? and are the springs under any type  of "force
fit" where they don't just nest together and some type of force needs to be
applied to get them back together.

My current plan is to not remove the set of 10 leaves from the truck (to
avoid the shackle bolt removal game).  I plan on removiing springs 3 and 4
to provide more initial compliance  ( I have been advised to keep the #2
spring as this is very important to the #1 spring). My thinking is that
taking out the 3 and 4 spring will provide less support under the 1 and 2
spring, allowing them to flex more - this providing a softer ride (it
currently rides the best when I loaded 1200 lbs in the bed).  I don't
anticipate my load capacity to be an issue as if the springs sag more than
2 inches, the overload leaf springs come into play.

The option exists to get the same size springs from a smaller (e.g. f250)
truck  that fit mine.   I could probably find them but they run at least
$100 around here, not including new bushings if needed.

I feel that removing the leaves will give me the best of all worlds and be
at least $100 cheaper(by saving the cost of the replacement springs).

My ride height in the rear would drop 3/4" (the thickness of the 2 springs
removed) but I am  currently have 2" higher in the rear than in the front
(as measured at the top of the wheel well).

Any ideas on if the leaves will simply bolt back together?  Anyone done
this before and can offer tips?

Thanks,

Jim

------------------------------

End of perf-list Digest V2001 #14
*********************************
Serious performance help for your Ford!
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck  Enthusiasts  offers the following in its online store to
assist you in your quest for more horsepower:
-Superchips performance chips
-Diablo performance chips
Books:
-How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection
-How to Install and Use Nitrous Oxide
-Step-By-Step Guide To Engine Blueprinting
-Performance Modifying Ford Trucks
-Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors
-Super Tuning and Modifying Carter Carburetors

<a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">
http://www.motorhaven.com/</a>
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