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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list perf-list); Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:58:39 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:58:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: perf-list digest users <listar Reply-to: perf-list Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #143 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Performance, Hot-Rod and Custom Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ perf-list Digest Thu, 14 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 143 In This Issue: Re: OK Engine Gurus... Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Hydrogen power for anyone Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Hydrogen power for anyone Re: Hydrogen power for anyone Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Electric Water Pumps Re: Electric Water Pumps Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bi Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bi Re: Electric Water Pumps ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 22:55:31 -0700 (PDT) From: shane san miguel <v8pinto Subject: Re: OK Engine Gurus... I just did a stock install. What I did is: Got motor to TDC on balancer, confirmed by checking piston height with wooden dowel. Made sure it was power cycle by pulling valve cover. Installed distributor where I wanted it. PULLED COIL WIRE AND PUT IN WORK BENCH Made spark tester using coil wire and old spark plug. Connect a jumper wire (alligator clips or whatever you have) from ground to outside of spark plug. Install other end in Distributor cap Turned ignition on and rotated distributor back and forth (very small motions here) and watched for spark. Turned motor by hand until balancer read 8 degrees BTDC. Rotated distributor again and watched for spark. Lock distributor down when you get it to where it 'just' sparks. Remove coil wire from bench and re-install. Start her up and verify ignition timing with gun. Shane 55 F100 5.0 15.51 289 Pinto --- Kevin Kemmerer <kevkem > Step one: Take a deep breath. > > Steo two: Smack the guy who took it out without > marking the rotor > direction! > > Steps three to five: > Then, find TDC on the number 1 piston where both > valves are closed (take > the valve cover off of course.) You could find that > using your finger over > the plug hole too sometimes, instead of pulling a > valve cover. > > Line up the rotor, to about the number one cylinder > plug wire post on the > cap. Now, timing would be very retarded here, so > make sure you left enough > room for the assembly to be rotated for proper > timing. You can get closer > to correct timing, using the damper marks if you > want to. I would start at > like 15 or so degrees before TDC. From there, once > it is running you > should be able to time it closer by ear, or right on > using a light. > > This is the way I would so it, if anyone has a > better way, speak up! > > Kevin > > ---------- > From: Bill Beyer[SMTP:bbeyer99 > Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 4:34 PM > To: Performance List > Subject: [perf-list] OK Engine Gurus... > > I'm helping my neighbor swap the engine in his > pickup. Unfortunately I got > there a little late and one of his buddies had > pulled the distributor > without making any marks on ANYTHING. I know how to > install a distributor > but how the !#$% do I figure out where to set the > thing initially? Anybody? > > BTW this is electronic ignition. > > > > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: > www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 07:05:36 -0400 I wish I could give a better explanation, but; the best I can come up with is that a mechanical pump is running all the time. The faster you go the faster you pump whereas the electric pump takes out the thermostat and varies the DC supply to the pump varying actual engine coolant temp. Your honkin down the road with a copious amount of air through the rad you don't need much pumping to cool the motor, hence less work more HP using the electric. What is good is in stop and go traffic and off-road when your motor is getting hot and water flow is at its minimum with a mechanical pump, the electric will keep increasing output until the preset temp is reached, because in traffic you don't care is you lose that extra 25HP you only want to see that temp gauge pegged at 160/170/180 or wherever you set it. The last point is that the controller will run the pump for a while when you shut down, cooling the motor evenly instead of leaving hot spots. No I'm not a sales rep, just think its a great idea! John '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's >I understand but have a question. I have always >questioned this. I don't know what particular law it >is but one law of physics is that energy cannot be >created or destroyed, it just changes to something >else. So, knowing that. Let's step through it. >A mechanical water pump has drag applied to it by >moving through water. That drag is lost HP from the >crankshaft, through the belts. >The pumping action of the water still has to come from >somewhere (the physics part). So we go to an electric >pump. >The pumping action still requires the same amount of >force, it's just coming from the alternator now. The >electric pump draws from the battery which is charged >by the alternator which is connected to the crank. So >still a HP loss. >So which one is better, draws less HP, the generation >of electricity or mechanical pump losses? >Always wanted to know that... "The Ponderer" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 09:06:48 -0400 From: Thomas Teixeira <tjt Subject: Re: Hydrogen power for anyone At 10:46 PM 9/13/2000 -0400, JUMPINFORD >I found this website, thought you might be interested. I was curious, so I >started digging around and low and behold, the rumor is true. With a lil >work, we can all drive around, filling up with tap water! I had really been >considering Propane due to the cost of gas. Well this system uses a lot of >the same stuff, but also tells you how to make the hydrogen generator. If it sounds too good to be true, it is. Yes, you could probably convert an engine to run on hydrogen gas. Yes, you could use electrolysis to separate water into hydrogen and oxygen. But you will use more energy in the electrolysis than you get back by burning the hydrogen afterwards. But if it DID work, you could improve the performance by collecting the oxygen and inject that into the air stream along with the hydrogen. :-) Tom Teixeira mailto:tjt 1935 Ford Pickup (flathead V8) http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://world.std.com/~tjt ------------------------------ From: "Jeff Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 08:42:53 -0500 What are the flow rates of a mechanical vs an electric? If these are so good why are they not stock on new cars and trucks. Can they move the water needed in a towing situation when pressure is high? The numbers given at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com shows them to be low flowing and low pressure which does not seem adequate for a heat sensitive V8. Just a thought but if you are racing or running hard on the streets you would want the extra flow. For the drag racers that run a quarter then let it cool down this may be fine but for a street driven auto if you are running hard you are generating alot of heat that a mechanical can deal with because as heat goes up so does flow. I hate to be the skeptic but cooling is very important and I would not want to be the guinea pig to try it and loose. An engines cooling needs change every mile you drive and overdoing it with a mechanical is fine with me. If I lived in a high traffic area the extra cooling at idle would be good but If I am stopped on the highway it is just to wait for someone livestock to get out of the way. Also they seem to have a limited functional lifetime before seals start to wear out which is another cause for concern. Just my $.02! no fact just opinions and assumptions, correct me if I am wrong. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Webster" <jwebster To: "perf-list" <perf-list Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 6:05 AM Subject: [perf-list] Re: Electric Water Pumps > > I wish I could give a better explanation, but; the best I can come up with is that a mechanical pump is running all the time. The faster you go the faster you pump whereas the electric pump takes out the thermostat and varies the DC supply to the pump varying actual engine coolant temp. Your honkin down the road with a copious amount of air through the rad you don't need much pumping to cool the motor, hence less work more HP using the electric. What is good is in stop and go traffic and off-road when your motor is getting hot and water flow is at its minimum with a mechanical pump, the electric will keep increasing output until the preset temp is reached, because in traffic you don't care is you lose that extra 25HP you only want to see that temp gauge pegged at 160/170/180 or wherever you set it. The last point is that the controller will run the pump for a while when you shut down, cooling the motor evenly instead of leaving hot spots. No I'm not a sales rep, just think its! > a great idea! > > John > '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's > > >I understand but have a question. I have always > >questioned this. I don't know what particular law it > >is but one law of physics is that energy cannot be > >created or destroyed, it just changes to something > >else. So, knowing that. Let's step through it. > > >A mechanical water pump has drag applied to it by > >moving through water. That drag is lost HP from the > >crankshaft, through the belts. > > >The pumping action of the water still has to come from > >somewhere (the physics part). So we go to an electric > >pump. > > >The pumping action still requires the same amount of > >force, it's just coming from the alternator now. The > >electric pump draws from the battery which is charged > >by the alternator which is connected to the crank. So > >still a HP loss. > > >So which one is better, draws less HP, the generation > >of electricity or mechanical pump losses? > > >Always wanted to know that... > > "The Ponderer" > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:29:55 GMT Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps >What I >liked is that for me an electric fan was a big amp draw and I'm still not >convinced it would do as well as my stainless flex fan. The electric water >pump though only draws 7.5 amps tops and frees up alot more HP. Okay, ignoring all the worries about overheating and power saving and such, wouldn't you still need an electric fan with an elec. water pump ? I mean you can't exactly use the motor to spin the fan anymore .... not to mention re-routing belts might become an issue as the wrap may get too much angle on things like the alternator with its small pulley ... though with an AIR pump it may not be an issue. > I wrote to >the manufacturer in Australia with questions and had a reply the same day. >You can mail him at dcfans >www.daviescraig.com.au. > Just thought I'd pass this on as food for thought and opinions. Wow, that's great, you hardly ever hear of customer service like that. If Wrenchead would have responded like that then I wouldn't be cancelling my order today. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 07:41:23 -0700 (PDT) From: shane san miguel <v8pinto Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps > I lived in a high traffic area the extra cooling at > idle would be good but > If I am stopped on the highway it is just to wait I work at Intel and 3,500 people arrive and depart every day at the exact same time. Yesterday my Pinto got up to 235 sitting in traffic. I would have loved the electric pump at that point. (actually I would have preferred a beer) > get out of the way. Also they seem to have a limited > functional lifetime > before seals start to wear out which is another > cause for concern. Just my This is what I have seen. Every one of the ads I have seen for them say "for drag racing use only". > The faster you go the > faster you pump whereas the electric pump takes out > the thermostat and > varies the DC supply to the pump varying actual I see.... So the pump isn't running at 100% output 100% of the time. So that's where you can 'conserve' energy. I get it now. There actually is a HP gain over the mechanical then because the electric pump can be 'slowed down' which takes less energy. Got it. Shane 55 F100 5.0 15.51 289 Pinto __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 10:16:26 -0500 From: Mike Schwall <mschwall Subject: Re: Hydrogen power for anyone At 08:06 AM 9/14/00 , you wrote: >At 10:46 PM 9/13/2000 -0400, JUMPINFORD >>I found this website, thought you might be interested. I was curious, so I >>started digging around and low and behold, the rumor is true. With a lil >>work, we can all drive around, filling up with tap water! I had really been >>considering Propane due to the cost of gas. Well this system uses a lot of >>the same stuff, but also tells you how to make the hydrogen generator. > >If it sounds too good to be true, it is. Yes, you could probably convert >an engine to run on hydrogen gas. Yes, you could use electrolysis to >separate water into hydrogen and oxygen. But you will use more energy in >the electrolysis than you get back by burning the hydrogen afterwards. > >But if it DID work, you could improve the performance by collecting the >oxygen and inject that into the air stream along with the hydrogen. :-) > > > >Tom Teixeira mailto:tjt If yer goin to use the oxygen too, might as well take the tranny out, yank the crank, rods, and pistons out, seal the bottoms of the cylinders, yank the exhaust valves out, remove the muffler, aim the tail pipes just right and turn 'er into a jet engine. ;-) Mike ------------------------------ From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" <DMO1 Subject: Re: Hydrogen power for anyone Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 08:28:36 -0700 All right!!! More power. Dennis 55F100 > ---------- > From: Mike Schwall[SMTP:mschwall > Reply To: perf-list > Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 8:16 AM > To: perf-list > Subject: [perf-list] Re: Hydrogen power for anyone > > > > > If yer goin to use the oxygen too, might as well take the tranny out, yank > > the crank, rods, and pistons out, seal the bottoms of the cylinders, yank > the exhaust valves out, remove the muffler, aim the tail pipes just right > and turn 'er into a jet engine. ;-) > > Mike > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:08:41 -0400 <What are the flow rates of a mechanical vs an electric? If these are so good <why are they not stock on new cars and trucks. You will eventually see these on new cars, as we soon move to the 42volt system on new vehicles almost everything will be tied to a microprocessor to optimize vehicle performance and emissions. Remember that every component on a car is priced closely and what seems a simple changeover in a pump is a large outlay for the design change/ warranty and core cost. Guess who eats that higher cost. <Can they move the water <needed in a towing situation when pressure is high? The flow rates given for the pump I brought up are 80L/min compared to a maximum of up to or over 240L/min for a mechanical. This may seem that the mechanical is better but in fact after a certain flow rate their is no gain in the extra flow just excess power put into turning the pump impeller. You can only dissipate so much heat through the radiator. <The numbers given at <http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com shows them to be low flowing and low pressure <which does not seem adequate for a heat sensitive V8. Just a thought but if <you are racing or running hard on the streets you would want the extra flow. <For the drag racers that run a quarter then let it cool down this may be <fine but for a street driven auto if you are running hard you are generating <alot of heat that a mechanical can deal with because as heat goes up so does <flow. Again you can pump the life out of the coolant but the rad determines just how much heat you can get rid of and this is a function of rad size and airflow. Therefore once you reach an optimum flow for your coolant its the size of your rad and the speed and size of your fan that determine how much heat you can get rid of. The pumps Summit carries are mostly designed for drag racing, just to keep the motor cool to the line and after the run. The pump I'm referring to was designed for everyday driving. <I hate to be the skeptic but cooling is very important and I would not want <to be the guinea pig to try it and loose. An engines cooling needs change <every mile you drive and overdoing it with a mechanical is fine with me. If <I lived in a high traffic area the extra cooling at idle would be good but <If I am stopped on the highway it is just to wait for someone livestock to <get out of the way. Also they seem to have a limited functional lifetime <before seals start to wear out which is another cause for concern. Just my <$.02! no fact just opinions and assumptions, correct me if I am wrong. Again at higher speeds any pump can do the job, its the sitting in traffic or lugging off road ect., that's hell on your cooling system. That's where the electric is giving full load and flow unlike the mechanical which is loafing at this point. ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:11:35 -0400 <What are the flow rates of a mechanical vs an electric? If these are so good <why are they not stock on new cars and trucks. You will eventually see these on new cars, as we soon move to the 42volt system on new vehicles almost everything will be tied to a microprocessor to optimize vehicle performance and emissions. Remember that every component on a car is priced closely and what seems a simple changeover in a pump is a large outlay for the design change/ warranty and core cost. Guess who eats that higher cost. <Can they move the water <needed in a towing situation when pressure is high? The flow rates given for the pump I brought up are 80L/min compared to a maximum of up to or over 240L/min for a mechanical. This may seem that the mechanical is better but in fact after a certain flow rate their is no gain in the extra flow just excess power put into turning the pump impeller. You can only dissipate so much heat through the radiator. <The numbers given at <http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com shows them to be low flowing and low pressure <which does not seem adequate for a heat sensitive V8. Just a thought but if <you are racing or running hard on the streets you would want the extra flow. <For the drag racers that run a quarter then let it cool down this may be <fine but for a street driven auto if you are running hard you are generating <alot of heat that a mechanical can deal with because as heat goes up so does <flow. Again you can pump the life out of the coolant but the rad determines just how much heat you can get rid of and this is a function of rad size and airflow. Therefore once you reach an optimum flow for your coolant its the size of your rad and the speed and size of your fan that determine how much heat you can get rid of. The pumps Summit carries are mostly designed for drag racing, just to keep the motor cool to the line and after the run. The pump I'm referring to was designed for everyday driving. <I hate to be the skeptic but cooling is very important and I would not want <to be the guinea pig to try it and loose. An engines cooling needs change <every mile you drive and overdoing it with a mechanical is fine with me. If <I lived in a high traffic area the extra cooling at idle would be good but <If I am stopped on the highway it is just to wait for someone livestock to <get out of the way. Also they seem to have a limited functional lifetime <before seals start to wear out which is another cause for concern. Just my <$.02! no fact just opinions and assumptions, correct me if I am wrong. Again at higher speeds any pump can do the job, its the sitting in traffic or lugging off road ect., that's hell on your cooling system. That's where the electric is giving full load and flow unlike the mechanical which is loafing at this point. ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:18:24 -0400 An electric fan is nice in that you again get the high flow at low engine speeds, but with a good fan, rad and clean cooling system you should be alright. As far as the belt goes, yes you re-route if your set-up allows, for me I'm going to pull the impeller off the water pump so the shaft spins freely thus allowing my use of the same pulley and fan. <Okay, ignoring all the worries about overheating and power saving and such, <wouldn't you still need an electric fan with an elec. water pump ? I mean <you can't exactly use the motor to spin the fan anymore .... not to mention <re-routing belts might become an issue as the wrap may get too much angle on <things like the alternator with its small pulley ... though with an AIR pump <it may not be an issue. John '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 23:07:27 -0400 From: admin Subject: Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bi Following are new messages posted in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts message board forums. If you have any questions, please use the contact form on the web site. To remove your subscription, visit our Message Board at www.ford-trucks.com, login, view any forum and click the subscription link. If you are subscribed to any of our mailing lists, you receive this message automatically as part of that subscription and it can only be disabled by unsubscribing from the mailing list. Messages posted in Inline Six =========================================================== "RE: carbs" Posted by rlbertrand on 09/13/2000 11:00:12 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/105.html#9 "Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/13/2000 13:09:19 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#0 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by fordsrus on 09/13/2000 15:38:49 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#3 "RE: A little black smoke, kinda wierd..." Posted by 82F100SWB on 09/13/2000 16:03:07 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/118.html#5 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by hotrodford_88 on 09/13/2000 18:56:32 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#4 "223 Rebuild?" Posted by jasper on 09/13/2000 23:01:09 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/127.html#0 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 00:21:41 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#5 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 00:31:36 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#1 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/14/2000 12:51:02 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#2 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 13:20:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#3 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/14/2000 17:00:24 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#4 "RE: 1986 F150" Posted by gary_p on 09/14/2000 20:32:54 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/125.html#2 Messages posted in 385 Series - 370/385/429/460 big blocks =========================================================== "RE: Early 460 - Nylon timing gear?" Posted by Torky on 09/14/2000 00:20:40 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID11/88.html#2 Messages posted in 351M/400 =========================================================== "RE: 351M W/2v Motorcraft Carb." Posted by mrmartygr on 09/13/2000 23:11:52 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/73.html#2 "RE: Oil Consumption" Posted by Superdave on 09/14/2000 03:41:44 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/11.html#11 "RE: 351M W/2v Motorcraft Carb." Posted by nitro94 on 09/14/2000 23:12:11 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/73.html#3 Messages posted in 4.6/5.4L Modular V8 =========================================================== "RE: Need to know about the 4.6 and the 5.4...." Posted by mtnbiker on 09/14/2000 19:15:06 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID14/11.html#1 Messages posted in 221/260/289/302/351w V8 =========================================================== "302 to 351 engine swap in a 91 F150" Posted by dstrech on 09/14/2000 16:44:23 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/129.html#0 "RE: 302 to 351 engine swap in a 91 F150" Posted by hotrodford_88 on 09/14/2000 19:49:03 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/129.html#1 "RE: 351W Block w/302 Heads" Posted by RAILMAN on 09/14/2000 22:47:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/125.html#3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 23:08:22 -0400 From: admin Subject: Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bi Following are new messages posted in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts message board forums. If you have any questions, please use the contact form on the web site. To remove your subscription, visit our Message Board at www.ford-trucks.com, login, view any forum and click the subscription link. If you are subscribed to any of our mailing lists, you receive this message automatically as part of that subscription and it can only be disabled by unsubscribing from the mailing list. Messages posted in Inline Six =========================================================== "RE: carbs" Posted by rlbertrand on 09/13/2000 11:00:12 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/105.html#9 "Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/13/2000 13:09:19 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#0 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by fordsrus on 09/13/2000 15:38:49 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#3 "RE: A little black smoke, kinda wierd..." Posted by 82F100SWB on 09/13/2000 16:03:07 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/118.html#5 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by hotrodford_88 on 09/13/2000 18:56:32 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#4 "223 Rebuild?" Posted by jasper on 09/13/2000 23:01:09 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/127.html#0 "RE: Thermostat" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 00:21:41 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/124.html#5 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 00:31:36 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#1 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/14/2000 12:51:02 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#2 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by Paul on 09/14/2000 13:20:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#3 "RE: Exhaust Question" Posted by trvaughn on 09/14/2000 17:00:24 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/126.html#4 "RE: 1986 F150" Posted by gary_p on 09/14/2000 20:32:54 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/125.html#2 Messages posted in 385 Series - 370/385/429/460 big blocks =========================================================== "RE: Early 460 - Nylon timing gear?" Posted by Torky on 09/14/2000 00:20:40 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID11/88.html#2 Messages posted in 351M/400 =========================================================== "RE: 351M W/2v Motorcraft Carb." Posted by mrmartygr on 09/13/2000 23:11:52 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/73.html#2 "RE: Oil Consumption" Posted by Superdave on 09/14/2000 03:41:44 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/11.html#11 "RE: 351M W/2v Motorcraft Carb." Posted by nitro94 on 09/14/2000 23:12:11 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/73.html#3 Messages posted in 4.6/5.4L Modular V8 =========================================================== "RE: Need to know about the 4.6 and the 5.4...." Posted by mtnbiker on 09/14/2000 19:15:06 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID14/11.html#1 Messages posted in 221/260/289/302/351w V8 =========================================================== "302 to 351 engine swap in a 91 F150" Posted by dstrech on 09/14/2000 16:44:23 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/129.html#0 "RE: 302 to 351 engine swap in a 91 F150" Posted by hotrodford_88 on 09/14/2000 19:49:03 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/129.html#1 "RE: 351W Block w/302 Heads" Posted by RAILMAN on 09/14/2000 22:47:30 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID18/125.html#3 ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:58:30 GMT Subject: Re: Electric Water Pumps .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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