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perf-list Digest Tue, 22 Aug 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 128

In This Issue:
429/460 heads
302 headers
ReRe : Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]
Re: 302 headers
Re: 302 headers
Re: 429/460 heads
Re: ReRe : Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]
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No brakes...almost

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 02:21:27 +0000 (MET)
From: Bas van der Veer <yl dds.nl>
Subject: 429/460 heads


Hmm now that I have been driving my '68 lincoln with 460 for a while ...

I love the power of the early 460 engines. I'd like to have one in my
bronco sometime. But they are getting rare since they only made the high
compression ones for 3-4 years. Then again I don't want to pull the
perfectly healthy 351M from my bronco. I don't have room to store an
entire motor, so if I pull
the heads from an early motor, can I save them and put them on a later
model block later?

------------------------------

From: "Brian A" <richat22 hotmail.com>
Subject: 302 headers
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 04:10:48 GMT

OK guys need a little advice once again.   Got the 302/c4 running great in
the baby bronco.  no leaks.  holding up good.  running 190 on nights and
cool days.  climbing to around 215 on 90-100 degree days on the highway.
guess this is about normal for a tight compartment with a single 16 inch
electric and 4-core with AT cooler.   The problem i have is a popping and
vavle rattle once the engine hit operating temp.  rattle on light throttle
and exhaust popping on harder throttle.  I think they may both be caused by
an exhaust leak at the header manifold to head.  i pulled it down last week
and found a blown spot on the exh. gasket.  think it may be the same thing
again.   any ideas on a quick fix to solve this?

i can not completely remove the header with pulling the transmission because
of how tight the fit is.  But I can lay it back a few inches from the
engine.  would this cause the rattle as well?  and what exactly cause a
vavle rattle?  it is the same as when you get bad gas or something on your
everyday vehicle.  and it has never been run on less then 93 octane.  and
only starts after you hit full temp.  the pop is there from start up.

Brian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/truckengine.htm


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------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" <radiopro kendra.com>
Subject: ReRe : Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:24:28 -0700

>Date: 21 Aug 00 22:30:11 EDT
>From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
>Subject: Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]

<snip>
>Fun to see the expression on the motorcycle and ATV rider's faces
when >they
>see you on their skinny trails.

Try snowmobilers... dun dat!

That ain't all..

Went out to the street where I park at work at lunch... Both the guy
behind me and the one in front could not believe I parked between
them . There was 7" in front and 17" behind my B II's bumpers (a
motorcycle was parked there when they arrived.....).

They accused me of using a forklift or a floorjack to put it there!

I will admit to putting the back tire up on the sidewalk , but only
during the 'cut/fill' phase. It *did* take 8 front/back trips to
wiggle it in there.... and get it straight to the curb.






------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:40:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel <v8pinto yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 302 headers

> cool days.  climbing to around 215 on 90-100 degree
> days on the highway.

That's just fine.  The 289 in my Pinto runs 180 after
about 2 minutes of engine operation.  Then runs
upwards of 230-240 at 3,500 rpms (85mph) on the
freeway.  Granted, I would prefer 190.  But 215 is
just getting warm, trust me  :)

> with a single 16 inch
> electric and 4-core with AT cooler.

My passenger side manifold touches the frame rail.  I
have a 16 inch electric, two core with built in
cooler, and an engine fan.

> rattle on light throttle
> and exhaust popping on harder throttle.  I think

Exhaust popping on harder throttle like backfiring?
Maybe timing related?  Or just loud exhaust pulses?
Are you just hearing that one, un-muffled, exhaust
pulse through the leak, or is it something that is
inherently -not right, mechanically not so good-
sounding?

> and found a blown spot on the exh. gasket.  think it
> may be the same thing
> again.   any ideas on a quick fix to solve this?

I have to replace the header gaskets in my 5.0 pickup
every 3 months or so.  I have heard that you can use
the Mr. Gasket, white fiber type, gaskets.  Soak them
in water for a night, and then install and be 'leak
free'.  But that sounds to me like an 'aging married
female's story' to me.  I want to try the copper or
aluminum ones.  They're MUCHO BUCKS but I hear they
are worth it.

> engine.  would this cause the rattle as well?  and

A rattle has to be caused by contact between two
moving objects.  Maybe loose bolts on the collector
flanges?  There could just be something hanging down
that shouldn't be.  A way to tell might be to rev the
engine while in neutral in the driveway.  To maybe
tell whether it is engine-vibration related or wheel
speed related.

Does it sound like it's pinging?  Does it have those
exhaust valve things that route hot air to the choke
during cold start up?
Things that make you go, Hmmmmm....

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87
289 Pinto

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------------------------------

From: "Brian A" <richat22 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 302 headers
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:10:57 GMT




>A rattle has to be caused by contact between two
>moving objects.  Maybe loose bolts on the collector
>flanges?  There could just be something hanging down
>that shouldn't be.  A way to tell might be to rev the
>engine while in neutral in the driveway.  To maybe
>tell whether it is engine-vibration related or wheel
>speed related.
>
>Does it sound like it's pinging?  Does it have those
>exhaust valve things that route hot air to the choke
>during cold start up?
>Things that make you go, Hmmmmm....
>

the pinging, or rattle as i call it for lack of a better word, is the same
sound as on a newer fuel injected when you get bad gas or something.  it is
not continuous and is only at part throttle. it almost positively has to do
with lean or rich at cruise and light throttle.  i am going to check my exh.
and head gasket today just to be sure before i look for any more trouble.
The exhaust leak is a popping/backfiring noise coming from somewhere up
front off the pass. side.  Timing is not an issue anymore though.  been down
that road for a week or two now.  it is right on now.  And had i not notched
the top of the frame my headers would be touching as well.

I guess once i get the popping stopped i will start changing jets to get the
fuel right.  i am running a somewhat high compression and i am hoping but
some strange mis-calculation i did not get too high and have to run booster
or something.  I started out with 54cc heads then had them milled(flattened,
straightened, etc.)  just enough to make the good.  did not measure after.
but the pistons are TRW forged flat-tops with a 10:1 at factory.  i am not
sure what they could be now.  not much more then that though.

thanks for the ideas
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------------------------------

From: Kevin Kemmerer <kevkem epix.net>
Subject: Re: 429/460 heads
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:11:31 -0400

Basically, yes.

----------
From: Bas van der Veer[SMTP:yl dds.nl]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:21 PM
To: offroad-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [perf-list] 429/460 heads


Hmm now that I have been driving my '68 lincoln with 460 for a while ...

I love the power of the early 460 engines. I'd like to have one in my
bronco sometime. But they are getting rare since they only made the high
compression ones for 3-4 years. Then again I don't want to pull the
perfectly healthy 351M from my bronco. I don't have room to store an
entire motor, so if I pull
the heads from an early motor, can I save them and put them on a later
model block later?




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:02:35 -0700
From: johny <johny netapp.com>
Subject: Re: ReRe : Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]

I've used an 89 broncoII to *pull* a 1980 toyota long bed 4x4 into a 2 car
garage.
(why? - dead transmission, and upward slope on the driveway)
Then proceeded to do many cuts and eventually drove the bronco out the garage.
Pretty amazing.

Garage is not huge. Deep enough to store a 99 SD SC short bed (with about 3" to
spare).


Keith Christensen wrote:

> >Date: 21 Aug 00 22:30:11 EDT
> >From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Re: [61-79-list] Re: Bronco II]
>
> <snip>
> >Fun to see the expression on the motorcycle and ATV rider's faces
> when >they
> >see you on their skinny trails.
>
> Try snowmobilers... dun dat!
>
> That ain't all..
>
> Went out to the street where I park at work at lunch... Both the guy
> behind me and the one in front could not believe I parked between
> them . There was 7" in front and 17" behind my B II's bumpers (a
> motorcycle was parked there when they arrived.....).
>
> They accused me of using a forklift or a floorjack to put it there!
>
> I will admit to putting the back tire up on the sidewalk , but only
> during the 'cut/fill' phase. It *did* take 8 front/back trips to
> wiggle it in there.... and get it straight to the curb.
>




------------------------------

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------------------------------

From: "Greg Hopper" <ghopper hiwaay.net>
Subject: No brakes...almost
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:03:12 -0500


Yesterday afternoon my truck almost overheated (that's a whole other story about electric fans I don't even want to get into).  I made it to the school parking lot, and when I got out I could smell something burning and I actually spotted a little smoke coming out of the passenger side front fender (truck is a 94 Ranger).  When I came out of class, of course everything had cooled off, but my brakes had become WAY ineffective.  The pedal travels probably 3/4 of the way before anything happens now.  They do generate decent power if you push em all the way to the floor, but nothing like before.  The fluid looks a little low, but not more than a 1/2 inch below the MAX line.  I have yet to find anywhere in the front brake area that appears that fluid has leaked.  I also noticed that the coolant level in the tank is down a pretty good ways now.
Of course my first thought was that I had sprung a brake fluid leak somewhere and that was burning, but it doesnt appear thats correct.  Is it possible that I boiled the brake fluid in the heat (I had also done some pretty hard braking, I was driving as fast as possible in traffic to keep the air moving through it), and that perhaps the coolant had spilled over and that was what was burning (it is a little low now too)??  And now a lot of the gas that came out when the brake fluid boiled has made its way into the MC reservoir and thats why the fluid level has dropped only a little but the brakes are screwed?  Just two unrelated problems that appeared to be related??  It is the original brake fluid (I know it shouldve already been changed).

Please help me out guys... I really need to get this thing fixed today... ....


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