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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. From: owner-perf-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (perf-list-digest) To: perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #327 Reply-To: perf-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk perf-list-digest Wednesday, December 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 327 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe perf-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help RE: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help FTE Perf - Emissions test RE: FTE Perf - Hard Blok? RE: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 06:41:18 -0500 From: Janet Kelly Subject: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help I was just putting the final touches on porting and polishing my brand new World Products Windsor Senior Aluminum heads - I m talking a good 15 hrs work per head, and I am on the last exhaust port, raising the roof to match a set of Fel Pro gaskets, full bowl, full port and polish, everything, when I cut through the top of the front exhaust port roof (would be #5 cylinder). It appears that World Products, has a tapped accessory hole that comes in from the front face of the head (installed, it would be the mounting boss that faces the radiator, drivers side, or when the heads on the bench, its on at the left end of the head when you have the valves turned up facing you). Anyway, this hole has been tapped back into the head, and its trajectory is aligned to just come across the roof of the #5 exhaust port, but stops before doing so right? Wrong! It actually continued much further into the head than what is required for the mounting bolt. This hole continues as a smaller diameter pilot hole that continues all the way across the roof of the #5 exhaust port, and as cast, is very close to the surface of the exhaust port roof! At this point I started inventing new words to the English lanquage - saying I was not a happy camper would be an understantment. The only good news in this, is that I actually didnt cut into a water jacket or anything - first thing I checked - definately no water jacket, just this blind untapped bootm portion of that *%$# mounting hole - it has got to be over 3 inches deep! So my questions to you are this - I think I could just run a bolt in from the end with some loctite and call it a day, effectively plugging this hole from the outside, or should I take it to a welder and get it solid filled, and the finish off the port with confidence? The roof is currently quit thin now in this spot, if I plug the end hole with a bolt, will the hot exhaust gases melt the thinnist parts and widen the hole farther? I still dont think it is a big deal, just high on the painal in the anal scale, and I pass this expereince on to those who are planning on hogging out their Dart Windsors SR's on the exhaust side - Watch out for that first port! Needless to say, any assistance/advice would be appreciated. Jim - loser with a die grinder. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:36:05 -0500 From: "Brad DeFore" Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help Jim, if it were me I would do it right while there. As in taking it to the welder to fill the hole. I would say there is a high probability that it would indeed widen with the heat and it would alter the flow characteristics/volume of just that one cylinder. Seeing on how you've already spent the time to clean it up, you really want to do it the best way you can. After he's through you can go back and re-port it to your hearts content and not have to worry bout it. - -----Original Message----- From: owner-perf-list ford-trucks.com [mailto:owner-perf-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Janet Kelly Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 6:41 AM To: perf-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help I was just putting the final touches on porting and polishing my brand new World Products Windsor Senior Aluminum heads - I m talking a good 15 hrs work per head, and I am on the last exhaust port, raising the roof to match a set of Fel Pro gaskets, full bowl, full port and polish, everything, when I cut through the top of the front exhaust port roof (would be #5 cylinder). It appears that World Products, has a tapped accessory hole that comes in from the front face of the head (installed, it would be the mounting boss that faces the radiator, drivers side, or when the heads on the bench, its on at the left end of the head when you have the valves turned up facing you). Anyway, this hole has been tapped back into the head, and its trajectory is aligned to just come across the roof of the #5 exhaust port, but stops before doing so right? Wrong! It actually continued much further into the head than what is required for the mounting bolt. This hole continues as a smaller diameter pilot hole that continues all the way across the roof of the #5 exhaust port, and as cast, is very close to the surface of the exhaust port roof! At this point I started inventing new words to the English lanquage - saying I was not a happy camper would be an understantment. The only good news in this, is that I actually didnt cut into a water jacket or anything - first thing I checked - definately no water jacket, just this blind untapped bootm portion of that *%$# mounting hole - it has got to be over 3 inches deep! So my questions to you are this - I think I could just run a bolt in from the end with some loctite and call it a day, effectively plugging this hole from the outside, or should I take it to a welder and get it solid filled, and the finish off the port with confidence? The roof is currently quit thin now in this spot, if I plug the end hole with a bolt, will the hot exhaust gases melt the thinnist parts and widen the hole farther? I still dont think it is a big deal, just high on the painal in the anal scale, and I pass this expereince on to those who are planning on hogging out their Dart Windsors SR's on the exhaust side - Watch out for that first port! Needless to say, any assistance/advice would be appreciated. Jim - loser with a die grinder. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:15:03 -0800 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: FTE Perf - Emissions test Don't want to get a whole debate going but I just thought I'd throw an FYI out here: My 1979 F250 4X4 with bone stock 400 including the factory 2V just passed the emissions test in Wa state with flying colors despite having had the cats removed several years ago by the P.O. The test in WA on 4WD vehicles is a simple 2 speed, idle and cruise with no NOx measurement. 2WD vehicles must take the dyno test which I believe does include NOx readings. For the 2 speed, HC, CO and CO+CO2 are measured. Standards are max 600 ppm HC, max 3% CO, >6% CO+CO2 at both cruise and idle. My truck did 378 ppm HC idle, 26 cruise, 0.34% CO idle, 0.08% cruise, and 8.95% CO+CO2 idle, 9.83 cruise. I did have to go out and buy 2 new gas caps since they started measuring evap emissions last year. So I bought the two cheapest Stant caps I could find for $3.99 a piece, put them on in the parking lot for the test then changed back to my locking ones after the test. The new ones go in the spare parts box 'til my next test in 2001. What a joke! "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:28:27 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Hard Blok? Having the block filled, means you will more than likely be fixing cooling problems. Sometimes it is easily overcome, by adding water lines to the back of the heads coming forward. Sometimes that won't even do it. As for the fill, yes, it can come apart. In my block, 8 years still has not damaged the block fill yet. I have seen, less than a few runs on a block that the fill was crunbling. It may crumble, from the twist the block sees under extreme power. It may also crumble from the fill not being applied while the block has torque plates torqued onto the deck, and the right kind for the heads (aluminum or steel) for the heads that will be run. Some people even like to bolt up the main caps when filling. Req'd? I dunno. When I got my block, used, and already filled up to the H2O pump line, there was a cylinder that was cracked. Many places won't sleeve a cylinder in a filled block. Also, even though it is filled, the cylinders are so thin that they do move around alot. Every cylinder in my block was honed, to bring the sizes up to my maximum clearance, and even out the cylinders. Every one, was a bit egg shaped to start with, and the walls are so thin, that each time they were measured during the honing process, in the words of the machinest - "...they where moving all over the place." Next time i want to build a motor that needs a big bore, I will get a race block and keep full water jackets. Sure, keeping the cylinders hot, and the oil cool, is one thing that block fill can do, and that is good, but in *my* block the oil temp gets hot fast, and very hot. Hot enough that my idle oil pressure drops from something like 70, down to 20 after the water temp hits around 150-160 deg. I think I know why this is for me, as my block isn't oil restricted to the top end, the oil is cooling the heads as much as the water is. Eventually, I will cure it all. And for sure, for the same size engine a big bore gives more power than a bigger stroke (within certain limitations of course). But if that little bit is needed, a race block is the only way to go IMO. As for the price, i don't know. It cannot to my knowledge, be removed in any way worth the effort. Any help? Kevin - ---------- From: Steve Randa[SMTP:sranda ch-advertising.com] Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 3:24 PM To: perf-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE Perf - Hard Blok? Any one have an opinion on filling a block partially with hard block on an everyday driver. Is there any chance this stuff might come apart and start floating around blocking passages? Could it be removed by a via an acid bath or other process? I'm talking right now to a guy with this setup for sale: 1969 351W Block-align honed,decked & squared,bored .030 over - --ARP Head studs - --DSS main support girdle w/main studs - --lower part of cylinders filled w/hard block 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft-4.00 stroke/2.100 rod journals combined w/.030 block will make 408 c.i. He wants $875 Application aside, is this a good deal? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:53:08 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help *Every* exhaust port on my heads, has a small break into a bolt hole. It will not, if it is small enough, effect anything. Larger, may inhibit flow but most likely not. And, a little exhaust leaking out around a bolt head is generally not a problem. Just be sure to use antiseize there. Kevin - ---------- From: Janet Kelly[SMTP:jkelly on.aibn.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 6:41 AM To: perf-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE Perf - Loser with a Die Grinder needs Help I was just putting the final touches on porting and polishing my brand new World Products Windsor Senior Aluminum heads - I m talking a good 15 hrs work per head, and I am on the last exhaust port, raising the roof to match a set of Fel Pro gaskets, full bowl, full port and polish, everything, when I cut through the top of the front exhaust port roof (would be #5 cylinder)..... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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