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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #303
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perf-list-digest Wednesday, November 24 1999 Volume 02 : Number 303



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - cheap comfy seats .
Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade
RE: FTE Perf - engine upgrade
FTE Perf - RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs
RE: FTE Perf - cheap comfy seats .
Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade
Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 01:04:02 -0700
From: Margit Walden
Subject: FTE Perf - cheap comfy seats .

any opinions on those rci or summit racing seats for a daily driver.
(looking out for my tired old ass! ) bronco
buster

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:21:53 -0500
From: Jean Marc Chartier
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade

Ryan Reinke wrote:
>
> Hey all!
>
> Bad news, I missed a stop sign Saturday and caught a
> Nissan. My truck looks real bad. (Was a 97 sb, sc,
> 4.6 w/ manual, off road)
>
> I stopped at the dealer for an estimate and for grins
> asked about my dream truck - a HD250 shortbox, 4X4,
> standard cab, diesel, w/ manual. No dice.
>
> What is it going to take to transplant a newer diesel
> into the described truck? I have heard that the newer
> diesels get 25 to 35 miles per gallon.
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan Reinke
> __________________________________________________

Ryan,

I am sure the engine will fit but... The springs will
probably collapse under the weight. You will have to use
the tranny from a diesel because the mazda will be destroyed
in no time, so you will need the T-Case too. Now you will
have to have driveshafts looked at. While you are at it you
might as well change the 8.8 inch rear end for an HD unit.
The list goes on. It would probably be cheaper to get your
dream truck. Have you looked at a used HD?

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:58:15 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - engine upgrade

> What is it going to take to transplant a newer diesel
> into the described truck? I have heard that the newer
> diesels get 25 to 35 miles per gallon.
>

A donor truck :( Also I don't think you'd see that kind of mileage, its
possible, but I doubt it seriously ...

Why not just take the opportunity of the front clip being off to add some
goodies to your 4.6 ? Some SVO Shorty headers for instance ... those are
good for some ponies ... :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:57:33 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs

> On that particular one, the caps pop out just like the grease caps do
> from a 4x2 hub;

yup, the other side came out no problem ...well the cap anyway ...


> there are two (if I recall correctly) retaining rings. One
> is easy to find, and it clips around the outside surface of the inner axle
> shaft ... the other one sits in a groove on the inside of the axle/hub
> housing;

Kind of ... my conversion kit has both of these, the factory hubs I took
apart only had the one on the inner axle ...

> Once
> you get the retainer ring out, everything should slide out relatively
> easily.
>

hahahaha .. one would think ... I had to soak it in WD-40 to finally get all
the rust eaten out so I could pry it out ...

Well the axle is finally light enough for me to move, took the rotors off,
the pass. side is all the way down to the ball joints, and the wrench for
that should be ordered today (what size is that 1 3/8" ?) ... the driver's
side I'm still trying to pound the spindle out of the knuckle ... that
didn't sound right, but I'm not actually pounding on the spindle itself ...
I pulled the cover off and a couple ounces of water poured out of the
housing ... no grease or nothing in there.

I'm going to get everything cleaned up, and the idea then is to try and
salvage the gears and such by running some gear lube in there without any
power on it, just lock the hubs and drive it around in 2 for a week or
so,then change the lube ... hopefully that'll get the scale all off of the
gears where the humidity has created a tiny bit of rust ...

New ball joints, tie rods, heck even a different steering box will find
their way into the mix during the swap. Along with brake lines and hoses,
and poly-bushings for the radius arms ...

One neat trick I found accidently was that when pulling the lower spring
pads off, use an impact wrench, dunno if I got lucky or what, but the one
side I did by hand twisted off (didn't bother me as the radius arms were
cut!) but the side I used the impact wrench on actually worked perfectly ...
neither bolt twisted off and they both came out clean and easy ... for the
arms themselves, the 4 bolts on the front, I had to break loose with a pull
wrench then the impact wrench SLOWLY backed them out ... hurt my back less
than the way I did the other side (using my feet to push the wrench at some
points)

Any bets on whether the rotors are worth trying to salvage or not ?

Also hubs, any recommendations ? I want some decent hubs, I don't do any
heavy off-roading, but we get enough ice and junk to worry about freezing
hubs up ... also 1/2 turn or less to engage is a must, the ones I have on my
current axle are 3/4 turn and its just kind of annoying that I can't do it
in one flip... petty huh?

Just lookin for advice on how much to replace before I put it under the
truck ... and suggestions in cleaning it up and painting it.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:58:46 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - cheap comfy seats .

I have one in my puller, and i like it. I never spent long drives in it,
but I have sat in the seat for long periods waiting in line to hook, if
about 30 minutes is long. I have always been surprised at the comfort of
them. I wouldn't think twice of tossing them into a daily driver, but I
wouldn't think twice of removing them either if they didn't feel comfy
enough on a daily basis. They are easy to clean spilled coffee off of too,
for whatever that is worth.

Kevin

- ----------
From: Margit Walden[SMTP:Margit goodnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 3:04 AM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - cheap comfy seats .

any opinions on those rci or summit racing seats for a daily driver.
(looking out for my tired old ass! ) bronco
buster




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:26:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Ryan Reinke
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade

That is why I wanted to start with a 250 HD, but
remove whatever engine came with it (ie 350/460) - the
point is that I can't get from the factory a diesel in
a short wheel base truck. Is it safe to assume that
the 250 HD front end will hold up under the added
weight?

>
> I am sure the engine will fit but... The springs
> will
> probably collapse under the weight. You will have
> to use
> the tranny from a diesel because the mazda will be
> destroyed
> in no time, so you will need the T-Case too. Now
> you will
> have to have driveshafts looked at. While you are at
> it you
> might as well change the 8.8 inch rear end for an HD
> unit.
> The list goes on. It would probably be cheaper to
> get your
> dream truck. Have you looked at a used HD?
>
> Regards
>
> Jean Marc Chartier
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 16:55:09 -0800
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - engine upgrade

Ryan Reinke wrote:

> That is why I wanted to start with a 250 HD, but
> remove whatever engine came with it (ie 350/460) - the
> point is that I can't get from the factory a diesel in
> a short wheel base truck. Is it safe to assume that
> the 250 HD front end will hold up under the added
> weight?
>
> >
> > I am sure the engine will fit but... The springs
> > will
> > probably collapse under the weight.

As noted from JMC, the springs will be loaded. Over the long term, it's been
reported on the http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford -diesel. com site, that the F250's (97 and older)
may experience some spring sag over the long haul. Twin traction beam (4x4)
or Twin-I beam (2x4) are susceptible to this.

An add-a-leaf or re-arched springs are a possible solution. The power stoke
diesels
(94+) are in the vicinity of 500 lbs over the 460.

If you're not familiar with Ford diesel engines, cavitation is probably one of
the things
you need to look most carefully at from a donor vehicle. If you go for an
automatic,
that would be next.

There's some threads buried in the oldest archives about swapping diesel....

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