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perf-list-digest Saturday, November 20 1999 Volume 02 : Number 299



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - A matter of timing
RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing
re: FTE Perf - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban
Re: FTE Perf - Ranger
FTE Perf - 4.0 swap
RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing
RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing
Re: FTE Perf - A matter of timing
Re: FTE Perf - 4.0 swap
FTE Perf - ADMIN: New store items

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 09:56:38 -0600
From: Neal Armstrong
Subject: FTE Perf - A matter of timing

This should be an easy one for all you master mechanics:

The subject is a recently rebuilt carburated 302, new parts throughout,
assembled by a first-time rebuilder, but one who has all the necessary
tools and reference books at hand, and has been maintaining vehicles for
lots of years. Cam is a Melling MTF-1 (.281/.296 lift, 280/289 duration,
112 degrees separation) degreed per center-line method instructions.
Distributor is a "blueprinted" Accel part with Pertronix in lieu of
points. Balancer is an original '68 part, but has been checked and TDC
is verified. Vacuum leaks are believed to have been eliminated, and
best idle vacuum is about 14". The problem is the engine runs like
word> and idles "best" at about 40 degrees BTC with the vacuum advance
connected.

I'm stumped, but then diagnosis isn't my strong suit! Seems to me to be
a cam problem, but 40 degrees is a long way from the normal 10 or 12, so
wouldn't it have to be WAY out of whack to cause this? Any suggestions??
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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 10:28:46 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing

> best idle vacuum is about 14". The problem is the engine runs like
> word> and idles "best" at about 40 degrees BTC with the vacuum advance
> connected.
>

Vacuum looks good, and timing is about right, maybe a touch high ... you
need to disconnect the advance when you are checking the base timing ...

> I'm stumped, but then diagnosis isn't my strong suit! Seems to me to be
> a cam problem, but 40 degrees is a long way from the normal 10 or 12, so
> wouldn't it have to be WAY out of whack to cause this? Any suggestions??

You probably will have 10 or 12 degrees when you disconnect the advance ...
check it that way and lettuce know :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 11:48:18 -0500
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: re: FTE Perf - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban

>
> Thanks Ken for providing a way for us all to discuss Trucks.

Thank you!

Ken
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 12:56:03 EST
From: FordRangerguy AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Ranger

A ranger will fit a 302 with the change of the motor mounts and changing the springs in the front end. I don't know if a 351 will fit or not.

visit www.ford ranger. com they've gots some links to pages where people have put in 302's into their rangers.

Good Luck

Steve Miller
Denver,Co


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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 13:04:51 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE Perf - 4.0 swap

I know its possible to put a 5.0 in a BII, but with all the mods it
requires, how hard would swapping a 4.0 be ? The BII in question is a V6
currently, XLT package if I remember right, so its got most all the bells
and whistles, including an auto tranny ...

What all would be involved, I'm not familiar enough with the V6 line to even
be able to guess .... emissions is not a concern.

It would be great if it was a computer swap and a direct bolt in, but I
doubt we'll be that lucky.


Anyone done this, or know someone who has, or have a kit, or any
information?

Thanks
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 20:09:17 +0100
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing

At 10:28 AM 11/19/99 -0600, you wrote:
>> best idle vacuum is about 14". The problem is the engine runs like
>> word> and idles "best" at about 40 degrees BTC with the vacuum advance
>> connected.
>>
>
>Vacuum looks good, and timing is about right, maybe a touch high ... you
>need to disconnect the advance when you are checking the base timing ...

Are you sure about the vacuum? I'm getting 21-23" of vac at idle.. (78 351M)

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 13:35:18 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - A matter of timing

> >> best idle vacuum is about 14". The problem is the engine runs like
> >> word> and idles "best" at about 40 degrees BTC with the vacuum advance
> >> connected.
> >>
> >
> >Vacuum looks good, and timing is about right, maybe a touch high ... you
> >need to disconnect the advance when you are checking the base timing ...
>
> Are you sure about the vacuum? I'm getting 21-23" of vac at
> idle.. (78 351M)
>

Vaccuum is one of those things that depends on the tune of the motor and
idle speeds an stuff ... if hes testing from ported vaccuum that could be a
problem too. But he also said he had a cam in it, as you get bigger cams
(yes I know they all have cams, but this implies aftermarket) you will bleed
off some of that vaccuum just as a function of the waythings work ... I
think I'm only getting about 15 with my cam too ... brand new motor with no
vaccuum leaks so I know that's about all I'll be able to pull ... I should
check it again though that was a final tune sort of thing, the motor has
broken in a bit more now...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 14:13:33 -0600
From: Neal Armstrong
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - A matter of timing

Bas van der Veer wrote:
>
> Are you sure about the vacuum? I'm getting 21-23" of vac at idle.. (78 351M)

Yes, 14" is what it's pulling. Actually I think the shop manual for
this engine indicates that 17" or 18" is the normal maximum in stock
form, so 21-23" seems awfully high.
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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 12:46:43 -0800
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 4.0 swap

William S. Hart wrote:

> I know its possible to put a 5.0 in a BII, but with all the mods it
> requires, how hard would swapping a 4.0 be ? The BII in question is a V6
> currently, XLT package if I remember right, so its got most all the bells
> and whistles, including an auto tranny ...
>
> What all would be involved, I'm not familiar enough with the V6 line to even
> be able to guess .... emissions is not a concern.
>
> It would be great if it was a computer swap and a direct bolt in, but I
> doubt we'll be that lucky.
>
> Anyone done this, or know someone who has, or have a kit, or any
> information?
>

Here's a chunk of email from the small list back from Feb 99.I've removed some
of the names, but the orignaly thread was
"2.9 to 4.0 l swap ".

- -john


>
> I have a 88 Bronco II. The 2.9 that's in it is shot. Would it be better
to
> replace the 2.9, with a remanufactured one, or get a remanufactured 4.0.
I
> have a 5 speed manual,

Here's info I've piled up from previous sources. Note I'm not the author,
he's credited
at the end.

>ENGINE SWAP FOR BRONCO II

>You can get a used 4.0 from Explorers or Rangers since 1990. You will
>need the whole engine including brackets for alternator, air
>conditioning, and power steering. kensingtonmotors.com had used 4.0
>engines between $450 and $1250. A salvage yard near you may also have
>one. You're engine mounts will work, check to see if they are okay when
>you pull the engine. I recommend you get the transmission also. You've
>got to remove the complete engine "system" and install in your vehicle.

>You also need to take the following from the donor truck:

>1. Computer from passenger compartment
>2. Wiring Harness from main harness to Computer harnesses.
>3. Exhaust manifolds or headers plus oxygen sensor
>4. Sensors: coolant temperature, manifold pressure, air charge
>temperature,
>5. Any associated power train sensors, such as reverse light switch,
>neutral switch, 4X4 switch.
>6. If possible take transmission with mounts, crossmember and downshift
>linkage.
>6. Possible radiator change - take from donor if possible.
>7. The original radiator will work fine if it's in good shape. It's
>actually bigger than the 4.0's. Shroud is OK, too, but get the 4.0 with
>it's fan.
>8. Motor Mounts [from donor if look okay; new ones preferred].
>9. Fuel tank, lines, and pump. Get an 89 or 90 if you can, otherwise use
>the dual pump setup of an 86-88 Bronco II.
>10. Fuel injection assemblies.
>11. Radiator overflow tank
>12. The ignition module that sits next to the radiator is required.
>13. Ignition coil if not mounted on block
>14. Throttle linkage
>15. Accessory brackets, such as alternator, A/C compressor, air
>injection pump and power steering
>16. Speed sensor in the transfer case. Better yet, get the transmission
>and transfer case. Switches from the tranny back (reverse lights,
>neutral switch, etc) are not necessary unless you get the tranny, too.
>17. Get the power distribution box for connection of the computer
>relays.
>18. You will need the air intake system system consisting of at least
>the mass air flow sensor, air duct, and throttle body. Use either a K&N
>filter or the Explorer's filter box.
>19.If you have air conditioning, get the hoses, condenser, and a NEW
>receiver dryer.
>20. Use the original temperature and oil pressure gauge senders. Just
>install them in the same places on the new engine.

>You'll need from other sources:
>a. Hoses: water, vacuum, fuel
>b. Belts
>c. Wiring harness if not from donor

>The changeover will take about 30 hours to do.

>Take lots of COLOR PICTURES as your stripping the donor vehicle to help
>when you re-assemble in your own engine compartment

>If you want to see lots of pictures and get lots more details about how
>to actually DO this swap, see my article in the October '97 issue of
>Four Wheeler.

>Also get a Chilton's or Haynes Manual. Or even better a factory service
>manual.

>Check out the V-8 Conversion info at:
>James Duff Enterprises - the best on-line Bronco II V-8 swap info found
>as of June 9, 1998.
>www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/v8conversions.html

>Advance Adapters
>www.advanceadapters.com/Ford/Ford.html

>COST: Costs will vary widely depending on what you intend to do with
>the competed package, the condition of the items installed, who does the
>installation, and what items are installed. For my planning purposes, I
>am planning to swap in a 4.0, its A4LD auto tranny and stock transfer
>case. I'll do the work. I run street only - daily driver. I'll do
>little to upgrade the engine. I will install some heavy duty clutches
>and a shift kit in the trans. I'll rework the driveshafts. I'm
>budgeting $3000.

>Here's a question to consider: What could you buy if you traded your
>current truck plus $3000?

>Other Sources:
>Triplett ASAP Auto Salvage, in Colorado www.triplettasap.com
>Bronco II Forum http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://4x44u.vmag.com/forum/b2-1097/
>Oct 97 issue of Four Wheeler magazine

>Updated October 15, 1998

>The following input from Tom Grancey on May 04, 1998:

>OK, I'll try and pass on some more info. I'd like to do it in a public
>forum rather than answer everyone's individual questions. The best thing
>to do is read my article in the Oct 97 issue of Four Wheeler on this
>swap. There's about 4 pages of information and 17-18 pictures. Here's
>what I can remember about this, bear in mind that I might miss a few
>small parts here and there since I'm recalling this from memory, not my
>documentation.

>One of the best approaches is to sit your rig by an Explorer or Ranger.
>Open the hoods, and just compare the two. Take good notes about the
>layout of the wiring, the mounting of different components, and the
>similarities of the two. Next, go to a junkyard and set things out for
>your swap. As you gather the parts, you'll eventually reach a point
>where it ties into the recipient vehicle, either mechanically or
>electrically. That's when you know you have everything.

>You'll need the 4.0L engine will all belt driven accessories, sensors,
>etc, the computer and wiring harness, the power distribution box, EEC
>relays and bracket, air intake system, mass air flow sensor, and air
>intake duct. I chose to use 4.0 L motor mounts, you may not need them if
>your's are in good shape. All of these parts will simply bolt into
>place. The computer fits in the same bracket, it's wiring harness
>follows the same path, etc.

>Transmissions are something to consider carefully. The early 5 speeds
>won't hold up to the 4.0 power, and they have a different input shaft
>length. The newer ones are beefier and hold up well. I'm running a 91 5
>speed that sat behind a 2.9L and it's just fine after 1.5 years. All
>bellhousing bolt patterns are identical and there are no fitup problems.

>For 84-85 vehicles, you'll need to change over the fuel system for fuel
>injection. I chose to swap the tank, lines and pump in my swap. Anything
>from 86 forward will work, but the 89-90 is preferred since it's a
>single pump setup, rather than two. If you've already got FI, take 4
>hours off the swap time, 'cause you got what you need already.

>Electrical is not too bad. I used Haynes' manuals for the two rigs and
>merely matched up color schemes for most of it. There's about 10-15
>wires to connect, depending on year, and they color codes match up
>through the years. Earlier vehicles may be missing a few things like a
>brake light switch and a check engine light that you'll have to add. The
>alternator on a 4.0 has an integral
>voltage regulator that has a sense line from the dash. Follow that
>through the schematics to find the resistor and it's hookup. All other
>wires connect at two or three connectors on the left fender apron. For
>the temperature and oil pressure gauges, move the original sensors to
>the new engine and use the existing wiring for them.

>If your cooling system is in good shape, the existing radiator will work
>fine. Mine held for over a year before old age finally got to it.

>If you have A/C, make sure you get the compressor on the engine. You'll
>also need to change the condenser since the connections are different,
>and you'll need the newer hoses for the system. Replace the receiver
>dryer with a new one.

>Now that I've written this, here's some other things to get:
>Fuel pump cutoff switch, found near the computer.
>Speed sensor that mounts in the transfer case.
>Starter motor and cable.
>Ignition module that mounts near the radiator.
>Wiring harness for fuel system and speed sensor.
>New upper radiator hose.

>This courtesy of Jerry Adams and Tom Grancey


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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 22:20:13 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Perf - ADMIN: New store items

The Ford Truck Enthusiasts online store has been updated
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