From: owner-perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com (perf-list-digest)
To: perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #249
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perf-list-digest Tuesday, September 28 1999 Volume 02 : Number 249



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - I bet you didn't know ...
Re: FTE Perf - Stickers
Re: FTE Perf - Firewall Drilling/cutting
FTE Perf - ADMIN: FTE news article
RE: FTE Perf - 351m parts questions
FTE Perf - RE: Firewall Drilling/cutting
FTE Perf - Re-351m parts questions
RE: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions
FTE Perf - Hey Muel...
Re: FTE Perf - 351m parts questions
FTE Perf - RE: Hey Muel...
Re: FTE Perf - RE: Hey Muel...

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 09:41:06 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE Perf - I bet you didn't know ...

Hey guys, one of my friends pointed me to the great "carnack" who's supposed
to tell you if you're compatible with your car or not ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cartalk.cars.com/Survey/Results/Psychographics/

Anyway I put in some answers for my car and my truck, the only difference
being which vehicle I picked ... thought those of you who've seen me on the
list and know me, or even those of you who don't know me might enjoy the
"generalizations" they make about F100 owners :)

- -----

When compared to other people who drive a Ford F100, you're a bit too young
to be driving this vehicle, you care a bit too much about your car compared
to other Ford F100 owners, you're just too educated to be driving a Ford
F100, other Ford F100 owners make more money than you, you are a little too
much of a snob, and you are much more objective and logical
- ----


Sorry, I thought it was good for a laugh (is that CJ and Dave I hear in the
distance?)

As an interesting side note, it suggested 3 of 5 of the same cars as being
better matches both times!

Have fun.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L (a nearly perfect match)
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L (nowhere close)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 07:42:18 PDT
From: "Roger Lane"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Stickers

Don't forget, chrome diff covers and chrome air cleaners are good for
another 30 to 40 hp's.

On Sat, 25 Sep 1999 09:10:23 -0700, Chris Samuel wrote:

> >>Add some stickers and you will have an
> >>easy 20hp increase ...
>
> >I've heard that only the Motorsports SVO stickers
> > work like that ;-).
>
> >Dave R (M-block devotee)
>
> Dave any sticker from an Aftermarket manufacturer
> will give 20 Horses.
> This is Particularly true if the product is
> ineffective but well hyped!! For example I have
> "HOT ROD POWER CLUB" stickers on my TIG Lid
> and ever since then, WOW,
> can I put down a high power bead!
> BUT . . .
> SVO/Motorsport stickers give 35 Horses!
>
> Muel
>
>
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Roger Lane

"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level
then beat you with experience."




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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 09:03:01 -0600
From: "Greg Kainz"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Firewall Drilling/cutting

George;
A .50cal 180gr from a blackpowder rifle should size up about right... :-)
Greg
====================================
>From: George Miller[SMTP:mega55 lv.rmci.net]
>Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
>Sent: Saturday, September 25, 1999 9:36 PM
>To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE Perf - Firewall Drilling/cutting

> I need a 3/4" hole through my firewall to accommodate additional service
> lines/wires between the engine and passenger compartments. 3/4" drill
> necked down to a 1/2" shaft? 3/4" metal hole saw? Any advice will be
> appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> George Miller


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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:22:41 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - ADMIN: FTE news article

Check out the news section of the web site at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/news/index.html

FTE has just published an article about the door stress crack
on 1997-1998 F150s. Additional articles about this will be
published in the near future.

Ken Payne
Admin
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:19:59 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351m parts questions

> A buddy of mine has 2 400's one worn out and one just
> rebuilt with about 1000 miles on it . The rebuilt one
> has a cracked cylender wall. I was wondering if it
> would be possible to bore the worn out one and rebuild
> it using new rings and bearings and all the other
> goodies and use the pistons and crank from the cracked
> engine if the pistons check out and the crank mic's
> out ok

You'd have to be sure and bore the cylinders to whatever the overbore is on
the pistons in the rebuilt one ... otherwise you'll be trying to put a +30
piston in a +10 bore or vice-versa .. neither will work real well ... if all
that matches though I don't see why not, though the subject is 351M's and
we're talkin 400's on both of these right ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 10:44:29 -0700
From: "Vierra, William BGI SF"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: Firewall Drilling/cutting

George you could use an electricians hole cutter. They are used to put
standard size holes in electrical service panels. You drill a pilot =
hole to
put the cutter (part with the bolt) on one side and the receiver (part =
with
threads) on the other side of the firewall. Using a wrench you tighten =
the
cutter and it will produce a perfectly sized round hole. The cutters =
go
from 3/8's to inch and =BD I believe. You may be able to rent one.=20
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:04:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Nick Jessee
Subject: FTE Perf - Re-351m parts questions

Cause its cracked into the next cyl whoever had it
before lmust have ran it with a blown head gasket
becaues there is a crack at the top of the cyl from
the no. 1 to the no. 2 cyl
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:38:19 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions

Insert 3/4 where I had 1/2 below for the correct front axle to pillage
rotors and backing plate, 8 bolt. Years 1973-1982. Note that around mid 76
they went to a different banjo bolt (bolt to hold flex brake line to
caliper), metric and smaller than the earlier years so make sure you get the
right brake line for year caliper you use.

My last post ever on the GM 14 bolt :)

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Carter [mailto:greg.carter entrust.com]
Sent: Friday, September 24, 1999 9:17 AM
To: 'perf-list ford-trucks.com'; 'Steve Shaw'
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions


Hi,
You don't need a kit, you can get all the parts from a junk yard and they
are quite common. However you have to have one part machined. You need to
make a 1 1/4" spacer (get back to me on that for exact measurement) that
goes in-between the axle flange and the backing plate. You use the disk
brake backing plate off the front of a 1/2 ton 4x4 chev truck and drill 4
holes to match the axle flange bolt pattern, with the backing plate
positioned so that when the caliper is mounted on it the caliper is to the
rear of the truck. You use the calipers off an 1/2 ton chev as wheel. If
you use newer calipers (80 or so and up) you can use the flexible brake
lines from a 78 Pontiac Perisian, they are length you'll need.

I have cc a friend of mine (Steve) who has done this conversion to his Chev.

You'll most likely have to reposition the spring perchases on the axle, and
I am not sure but you may run into problems with where the center section
is,(off to the left or off to the right). Measure everything up.

I don't know what year you truck is but you can do a rear disk brake
conversion for Ford 10.25 axles (no weaker than a 14 bolt) for years 86-96.
There will be an article on www.ford-trucks.com this weekend (I already gave
it to Ken to put up).

Bye.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Shade [mailto:dshade erols.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 10:58 PM
To: perf
Subject: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions


Hey guys, I'm trying to locate some info on rear brake conversions, the
axle in question is a Corporate 14 bolt (sorry, it is just stronger than
a stock Dana 60). I heard the TSM makes conversion kits, but I am
having trouble finding info on the web looking for stuff.

thanks

Dan Shade

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:58:32 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE Perf - Hey Muel...

Chris,

I'm going to post this question to the list on the off chance that it may be
of some interest to the other deluded M block devotees...

When I bought the short block from you, you mentioned a modification to the
oiling system that could increase the reliability of the engine. I ground
the lead in grooves on the crank per the diagram you sent and the whole
thing is being balanced now. I'm getting the block & lower end back from the
machine shop this week so now would be a good time to ask you about it. What
the scoop?

Bill

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"



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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:12:29 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351m parts questions

>From: Nick Jessee
>Subject: FTE Perf - 351m parts questions
>
>A buddy of mine has 2 400's one worn out
>and one just rebuilt with about 1000 miles
>on it . The rebuilt one has a cracked
>cylender wall. I was wondering if it would
>be possible to bore the worn out one and
>rebuild it using new rings and bearings
>and all the other goodies and use the
>pistons and crank from the cracked
>engine if the pistons check out and the
>crank mic's out ok

Yo Nick:

Everything your thinking is good, except possibly for the pistons. The pistons
would be ok only if the other block is finished to the same bore. If it needs
more bore to clean up, you'll need new pistons to fit the bigger bore. Although
you could bore it more than necessary to fit the pistons, I wouldn't want to do
that to a block if I didn't have to. You can now get 9.0:1 pistons for the 400
relatively cheaply from Ohio Piston & Pin (800-428-4591). If your buddy has
stock-type 400 pistons (8.4:1 or less), now would be the time to upgrade the
compression ratio.

As for the crank, the 351M and 400 cranks are different. Your subject line says
351M, so if both engines are not 400s, you'll need to use the 400 crank, if it
checks out. You can swap the cranks between blocks w/ no problem; just use new
bearings. BTW, since the 351M and 400 use the same connecting rods, the pistons
are not interchangeable. If you're switching a crank from 351M to 400, you
can't use the same pistons.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:31:32 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: Hey Muel...

- -> Chris,
- ->
- -> I'm going to post this question to the list on the off chance
- -> that it may be
- -> of some interest to the other deluded M block devotees...

What a SICK bunch!

- -> When I bought the short block from you, you mentioned a
- -> modification to the
- -> oiling system that could increase the reliability of the engine. I ground
- -> the lead in grooves on the crank per the diagram you sent and the whole
- -> thing is being balanced now. I'm getting the block & lower end
- -> back from the
- -> machine shop this week so now would be a good time to ask you
- -> about it. What
- -> the scoop?
- ->
- -> Bill

The 351M/400 engines share the 351C oiling system design, (as does the 385
series) and it has problems. (The big block however does not have problems
"generally" with oiling.)
In the "M Class" engines the large bearing journal diameters can cause
potential problems with oiling. These problems are exacerbated by the use of
tangential oil gallery and lifter bore locations. When the 351C was the
engine to run in Pro-stock and NASCAR. the "C" engine was bomb proof...
except for the oiling!
Part of the problem is that often the lifters don't fit PERFECTLY in the
lifter bore. When this happens the oil can hemorrhage out of the main
gallery and both pressure and volume drop! Unfortunately the Main Bearings
are oiled last for all intents and purposes.
When racing these engines, the best fix is to re-plumb for "Priority
oiling"; or Mains first. This option is simplicity in action, but more work
then we usually need for a 1-2-1 (or less) engine: 1HP/1CI. To do this you
simply drill straight down through the main webbing from the lifter valley
to the main bore; tap the top and feed it fresh oil being pumped out of the
engine through a cooler and then into this new oil passage. Presto, you can
now sustain 8500 RPM for as long as the rest will stay inside.
I charge too much to do this to my "Street" engines!, so what is a gearhead
to do? Simple!-)
Located just above the Oil Filter pad is a Port that is normally plugged.
And located at the back of the block on top just behind the valley/intake
manifold seal rail is the port that has an oil pressure sender or plug.
Simply connect these two ports and you are effectively feeding nice fresh
pressurized oil, from the front of the system, into the vary back of the
system. Not quite as effective as the first system I described but, it will
work well and is fairly cheap too!
You can build the external lines our of 1/2 Hydraulic tube but it is a pain
so I use Aero-Q (or=) braided Stainless line.
***I will caution that in this instance your use ridged line or braided,
don't cut corners! Your engine is at stake!***
For those not inclined to build their own Braided Stainless line there is
hope!
There is a company called:
MPG Head Service
3881 S. Jason St.
Englewood, CO. 80110
PN (303) 762-8196
These fine peoples just happen to sell the line, complete, and ready to bolt
on! You pay a bit for the privilege but what the heck! I buy em, and I don't
mind building STSTL Lines.
They also have the other piece that any well dressed engine needs. From pure
stocker to race! IMNSHO "ALL" engines should be equip. with a "Windage
Tray"; MPG has this item for the M Class engines that has a built in scraper
to assist in pealing the oil off the crank! And it fits inside the stock
pan.

So there you have it clear as whipped 30WT in January!
Well I hope that it's clearer then that!

Muel
79 Bronco
75 Highboy



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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 23:25:04 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - RE: Hey Muel...

>From: "Chris Samuel"
>Subject: FTE Perf - RE: Hey Muel...
>
>There is a company called:
>MPG Head Service
>3881 S. Jason St.
>Englewood, CO. 80110
>PN (303) 762-8196
>These fine peoples just happen to sell
>the line, complete, and ready to bolt
>on! You pay a bit for the privilege but
> what the heck! I buy em, and I don't
>mind building STSTL Lines.
>They also have the other piece that any
>well dressed engine needs. From pure
>stocker to race! IMNSHO "ALL" engines
> should be equip. with a "Windage
>Tray"; MPG has this item for the M Class
>engines that has a built in scraper
>to assist in pealing the oil off the crank!....

---

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