From: owner-perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com (perf-list-digest)
To: perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #245
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perf-list-digest Friday, September 24 1999 Volume 02 : Number 245



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - 12V
FTE Perf - Tach hookup
FTE Perf - TC sippage
RE: FTE Perf - TC sippage
FTE Perf - Monoleaf rear springs
Re: FTE Perf - TC sippage
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - Tach hookup
FTE Perf - C-6 overdrive?
RE: FTE Perf - C-6 overdrive?
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
FTE Perf - rear brake conversions
Re: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
Re: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions
Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
FTE Perf - Re: Plugs revisited
FTE Perf - axle swap
Re: FTE Perf - axle swap

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:32:26 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - 12V

Tom H writes: >> The windshield wipers plug into a connection that has 3 ports
on it. That plug is 12V when the key is in RUN or ACC. I found this when I
installed a cruise control on my truck. 2 of the ports are not used.

It is a large flat female port that is B R I G H T Y E L L O W.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:37:53 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Tach hookup

David R writes: >>For your purposes, an electronic tach should work fine.
Basically, it works
about the same way as your handheld meter. They usually tap into the coil
primary ground lead for the tach trigger signal and use +/- 12V power source and
maybe an extra +12V source for the internal light. Most tachs I've seen come w/
decent installation instructions.

I seem to remember on some of my F series trucks that there is a "Tach" wire
coming out of the connector that fits onto the coil...about 3 inches long and an
open female port... Maybe not a wire on some, but marking on the connector
as "Tach" at any rate. Just hook it up there.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:49:13 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - TC sippage

Bas writes: >>
Gears and tires are pure math, but I don't have much of a clue about the
torque converter. I heard the slip isn't all that big - but what's "not
big"? 2000 -> 2100 rpm??

Don't have anything factual, but an old man (imagine me calling someone an old
man) once told me in my younger days to figure it this way:

Stock converter in a roughly 400 cu in truck (mine was a 390):.

Extreme load: 6% Drag racing or heavy load on long hill

moderate load 3% flat roads - moderate speed or cruising around town with
your favorite girlfriend at your side

Light load 1% cruising in flat country with no load and at 50 or less mph
and maybe a light tail wind.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 12:13:41 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - TC sippage

I think slippage is more than that for a stock type converter, and even
more for a performance one. For an RV type, i think that is close.

My 77, with a stock converter behind a 460 slipped close to 10+ percent
when i pushed the loud pedal down in 3rd gear. My d*dge with a lockup
converter drops a good 500+ rpms under cruising load, when the converter
locks. (about 2200 rpms at 60-65, dropping to just over 1500 after
lockup.)

increasing tire size, smaller numerical gears, more load/drag etc, more
power, all increase slippage.

kevin

- ----------
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com[SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 11:49 AM
To: Perf-list Ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - TC sippage

Bas writes: >>
Gears and tires are pure math, but I don't have much of a clue about the
torque converter. I heard the slip isn't all that big - but what's "not
big"? 2000 -> 2100 rpm??

Don't have anything factual, but an old man (imagine me calling someone an
old
man) once told me in my younger days to figure it this way:

Stock converter in a roughly 400 cu in truck (mine was a 390):.

Extreme load: 6% Drag racing or heavy load on long hill

moderate load 3% flat roads - moderate speed or cruising around town
with
your favorite girlfriend at your side

Light load 1% cruising in flat country with no load and at 50 or less
mph
and maybe a light tail wind.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:26:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill
Subject: FTE Perf - Monoleaf rear springs

I am seriously considering moving to a monoleaf rear spring set up on
my '64.. the combination of my Volare front end and stock + overload
rear springs makes for 1) no weight transfer on acceleration and 2) a
really strange ride.. Since this truck is destined to be a streetrod,
I dont need the overloads or the stiff stock springs..

Anyone have any experience with the monoleaf springs??.. any year..
goo, bad or indifferent.

Bill in Texas
'64 F100 Shortbox (351W/C4)
'90 Harley Dresser
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:28:36 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - TC sippage

> Bas writes: >>
> Gears and tires are pure math, but I don't have much of a clue about the
> torque converter. I heard the slip isn't all that big - but what's "not
> big"? 2000 -> 2100 rpm??
>
> Don't have anything factual, but an old man (imagine me calling someone an old
> man) once told me in my younger days to figure it this way:

So the ones they made in the late 70s were better than the ones they made
in your younger days? ;-))

> Stock converter in a roughly 400 cu in truck (mine was a 390):.
>
> moderate load 3% flat roads - moderate speed or cruising around town with
> your favorite girlfriend at your side

Ahah so my engine would be just under 2100 rpm at 55 mph .. (3.54 rearend,
33" tires) wow that;s low, with a 5500 rpm redline that would bring my top
speed (rpm wise) to 147 mph, yeeehaw!!!



> Light load 1% cruising in flat country with no load and at 50 or less mph
> and maybe a light tail wind.
that's the way I like it, driving with the pedal depressed only .3" or so
;-) First get a massive displacement engine, then only use 10% of it and
be king of the road..

Here in the netherlands most cars have 1.0-1.5 liter engines, no fun :(
.. my car has a ""big"" 1.7 liter diesel .. my bronco is in storage until
I get back to the US, man I love that vehicle.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:31:06 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

>From: Bas van der Veer
>Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
>
>2V = 2-barrel carb? I have that too, also
>motorcraft.. I do have a high flow air filter,
>what's the name again, those $60 washable
>million miles things.. anyway it makes a
>BIG difference in power. Even at the freeway,
>if I floor the pedal the vacuum gauge drops
>to a dead zero. Next thing will have to be
>headers. Do those help in low end power too?

Yo Bas:

Yes 2V in reference to carburetors refers to a so-called 2 barrel. The 2V
designation actually refers to the fact that the carb has two main venturi
tubes. A 4V (4 barrel) carb would have four main venturi tubes.

I have made several external modifications for performance on my basically stock
M-block and I have experimented w/ several easy/cheap mods looking for
easy/cheap power. As for the K&N drop-in filter element, I tried one on my
truck too, and the only benefit I received was getting to wash the filter every
25-30K miles instead of buying a new paper element every 3-4K or so. I figured
at that rate, it would pay for itself in about 50K miles. Using the K&N
element, I saw no effect on performance w/ my stock carb and intake manifold, so
I can only assume that the paper filter was not a significant restriction in my
truck. BTW, since I switched the air cleaner housing to the 302HO/351HO/460 17"
unit (so I could use that fancy SVO chrome lid), I haven't got around to buying
a new K&N for the bigger housing and I have returned to using paper elements.
Frankly, I believe the chrome SVO part added more power than the K&N filter :-).

I can only assume that your carb is calibrated differently than my stock carb
was, because you already seem to have better performance from yours than I had
w/ mine.

>From: "William S. Hart"
>Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
>
>K&N ... yeah I've got one in my car and one
>in my truck ... helped the car a lot after I opened
>up the exhaust ...t he truck loved it too, can hear
>the secondaries kick in (4V Holley)

W/ the '82 GT carb, I suppose it's possible that at the higher rpm I can run
(which means more flow rate), I could derive some performance benefit from a K&N
element, which I couldn't before w/ the stock carb rated at only (about) 300
cfm. Since I haven't tried a K&N w/ the new carb, I can't say for sure. OTOH,
the bigger element I'm using under the chrome lid should accommodate
proportionately more flow rate, even w/ a paper element. I guess it would be
interesting to try the K&N again, but based on my previous experience, it would
be a pretty big gamble, and at the rate I drive my truck now (less than
8Kmiles/year), it would take a long time to pay for itself in savings.

>> Next thing will
>> have to be headers. Do those help in low
>>end power too?
>
>They will help some, depends on your
>manifold design though, I'm not
>familiar with the M series, have to ask
>DaveR for sure what works ;) Maybe
>he can try those shorties/block huggers
>like we have in CJ's truck :)

Headers might help a little at the low end, but not much. They will make a
bigger difference as the rpm goes up. Since proper headers will improve the
ability of the engine to flow air (in a sense), they might also make the K&N
filter a little more worthwhile.

>73ish F100 4x4 6.4L

OK, now I think this metric thing is going too far!

Dave R (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M (5.8L) and 16 Glorious Pushrods!


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:32:10 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Tach hookup

> I seem to remember on some of my F series trucks that there is a
> "Tach" wire
> coming out of the connector that fits onto the coil...about 3
> inches long and an
> open female port... Maybe not a wire on some, but marking on
> the connector
> as "Tach" at any rate. Just hook it up there.
>

This was probably a result of the "closed" coil connections on the Duraspark
wiring harness ... quite a handy plug, usually on the newer cars too, used
for diagnostic purposes as well as aftermarket tachs ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:01:44 PDT
From: "Jeremy Taylor"
Subject: FTE Perf - C-6 overdrive?

Hey guys-

all this talk about rpms and highway drive has got me thinking. Currently,
my 460, C-6, 4.10's runs 3000rpms at 63 mph. It wouldn't be a problem,
except I put 100+ highway miles on per day and i'm afraid i'm causing damage
to my new engine (3000 miles now).

I often heard about an "overdrive" unit that you mount behind a C-6 which
gives you a 4th gear. did trucks ever come with it from Ford? Is there
someplace where i can pick one up, new or used? Did such a thing even ever
exist!?!?!

Thanks
Jeremy
'88 F-250, 4x4
460,C-6,4.10's
(stock size tires)

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:44:58 -0400
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - C-6 overdrive?

A company called Gear Vendor located in San Diego makes these units and they
are pricey. They actually split the existing gears so you have 6 speeds
instead of 3 and the last one is actually an overdrive so they are better
than just an extra top gear.

Regard
John


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeremy Taylor [SMTP:jetman36 hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 10:02 AM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Perf - C-6 overdrive?
>
> Hey guys-
>
> all this talk about rpms and highway drive has got me thinking.
> Currently,
> my 460, C-6, 4.10's runs 3000rpms at 63 mph. It wouldn't be a problem,
> except I put 100+ highway miles on per day and i'm afraid i'm causing
> damage
> to my new engine (3000 miles now).
>
> I often heard about an "overdrive" unit that you mount behind a C-6 which
> gives you a 4th gear. did trucks ever come with it from Ford? Is there
> someplace where i can pick one up, new or used? Did such a thing even
> ever
> exist!?!?!
>
> Thanks
> Jeremy
> '88 F-250, 4x4
> 460,C-6,4.10's
> (stock size tires)
>
> ______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:29:55 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> As for the K&N drop-in filter element, I
> tried one on my
> truck too, and the only benefit I received was getting to wash
> the filter every
> 25-30K miles instead of buying a new paper element every 3-4K or
> so. I figured
> at that rate, it would pay for itself in about 50K miles. Using the K&N
> element, I saw no effect on performance w/ my stock carb and
> intake manifold, so
> I can only assume that the paper filter was not a significant
> restriction in my
> truck. BTW, since I switched the air cleaner housing to the
> 302HO/351HO/460 17"
> unit (so I could use that fancy SVO chrome lid), I haven't got
> around to buying
> a new K&N for the bigger housing and I have returned to using
> paper elements.

Okay, here's my $.02 on that, since I forgot to include some information on
what all changed with my K&N ... I don't think the restriction on a stock
aircleaner box is the paper element (GENERALIZING here) ... I think that
tiny (2x4?) hole in the box is the big restriction there ... when I put the
K&N on, I went to a smaller chrome lid as well, actually bought the Ch*vy
drob base air cleaner 'cause it was all they had in stock, then put the lid
and element into the stock housing ... this created a gap around the air
cleaner lid and the housing ... much like the old "ram air" Mustnangs use,
where the lid is smaller diameter, so it seals against the element, this
opens the whole thing up as a source for air ... by leaving the stock base
on you maintain your flow to the carb in its stock form and provide some
heat shielding from the warm engine air ...

Dave, you have the dual snorkel thing set up right ? this will obviously
flow at least twice as good as the single you had before, so you may notice
some difference now, but since you don't drive it much, maybe its not worth
it ...



> Frankly, I believe the chrome SVO part added more power than the
> K&N filter :-).
>

Add some stickers and you will have an easy 20hp increase ... just ask those
guys with the chrome fart tips ...

> Headers might help a little at the low end, but not much. They
> will make a
> bigger difference as the rpm goes up. Since proper headers will
> improve the
> ability of the engine to flow air (in a sense), they might also
> make the K&N
> filter a little more worthwhile.
>

I can back this one up ... I put a different H-pipe on my car, suddenly the
whole motor woke up, it wasn't the intake side that was restrictive, it was
all the cats ... so by opening hte exhaust you can hear the intake whining
for some air too ...definitely the K&N is helping now ... now if I can just
get the other side opened up, then we'll be back to the intake and exhaust
manifolds being the problem :)


> >73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
>
> OK, now I think this metric thing is going too far!
>
> Dave R (M-block devotee)
> 1980 F250 4x4 351M (5.8L) and 16 Glorious Pushrods!
>

Hahahahaha ... yeah if I could only find those emblems ... maybe I can make
some GT 6.4 emblems for my truck so they match with my car ? or maybe some
281 emblems for the car ...those are too easy to find though ...if I could
find a way to stuff an FE into the car ... that'd be something ... a cammer
427, so i'd still have a SOHC Mustang GT ... yeah ... there we go :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 22:57:48 -0400
From: Dan Shade
Subject: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions

Hey guys, I'm trying to locate some info on rear brake conversions, the
axle in question is a Corporate 14 bolt (sorry, it is just stronger than
a stock Dana 60). I heard the TSM makes conversion kits, but I am
having trouble finding info on the web looking for stuff.

thanks

Dan Shade

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:05:42 EDT
From: FLR150 AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions

www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:09:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> > 1980 F250 4x4 351M (5.8L) and 16 Glorious Pushrods!
> >
>
>Hahahahaha ... yeah if I could only find those emblems ...

You can get 5.8L emblems... from Oz (Australia)
Look in Super Ford or one of the Mustang mags
ad sections....

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:11:22 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - rear brake conversions

In a message dated 9/23/99 8:04:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dshade erols.com
writes:

>

FOR SHAME! Toss that thing and go find a 70! And I wouldnt go so far as to
say its stronger than a 60. The way I see it, 10 bolt = pinto axle, a 12bolt
is about an 8.8, never be a 9, and a 14 is a click under a 60. Nuthin, but
nuthin beats a 70, cept maybe the 70 HD I have in Tweety.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:15:22 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

In a message dated 9/23/99 8:10:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
canzus seanet.com writes:

>

Anyone ever seen a 460 or 7.5 emblems??

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: 23 Sep 99 22:18:22 EDT
From: Tim Turner
Subject: FTE Perf - Re: Plugs revisited

Remember what I said about AC plugs and the longevity? I have a new ta=
le to
tell.. mid 80's Ford van 4.9L with 201,794 Miles and a no start. Quick =
check
reveals spark from the coil and none coming out the cap. replace the rot=
or
and the thing is a bit rough but decent.. I hear arcing from somewhere
though. Finally isolate it to a loose #6 plug (amazed that I could actua=
lly
hear it.. new sensation). I start to tighten the plug; wait a minute...
Motorcraft plugs? Let me yank it out for kicks. Holy crap!! This used =
the
super extended electrode plugs and the side electrode was missing all of =
the
elbow and some of the stem. My gap guage was too small and I had to use a=

caliper to measure the .154" gap! (.044 was the OE gap) As it turned out=
this
was NOT the worst plug either. I hope to post a picture of the set somet=
ime
in the near future, if I do I'll pass on the link.

I'm back on the Ford bandwagon and it's Motorcraft plugs for me!

Tim


____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:13:25 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE Perf - axle swap

I am building a mud rider/dailydriver/hunting rig, it is a
1984 F-150 regular cab,SWB
it has the stock Dana44 TTB fron and 9in rear
yes it is a 84 with the 9in stock rear so it is pretty rare.
I am wanting to switch both axles out with leaf sprung at both ends 3/4 or
1 ton
axles.
were should I start:)
the back will be fairly easy wont it>??
but the front I will have to take off all TTB stuff but center
crossmember/motormount bracket.
and the weld up or bolt on mounts for the new leaf springs.
are the spring pads gonna be the same width that would work on my truck.

is there a company that specializes in this stuff
or can somebody please help me thank..


Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,....

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