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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #244
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perf-list-digest Thursday, September 23 1999 Volume 02 : Number 244



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!
FTE Perf - Hey everybody!
Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
FTE Perf - Power valve.

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:30:34 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!

That's interesting that your heater works only in the run position. I don't
think there is a circuit on my 76 truck that the ACC position of the switch
won't turn on (except maybe the ignition). Hot tip for anyone that needs a
convienent plug in for 12V that is on in either RUN or ACC. The windshield
wipers plug into a connection that has 3 ports on it. That plug is 12V when
the key is in RUN or ACC. I found this when I installed a cruise control on
my truck. 2 of the ports are not used.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: Bas van der Veer[SMTP:yl dds.nl]
> Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 9:18 AM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!
>
> >can't hook up a battery and test circuits. So, can anyone suggest a
> circuit
> >I can tap into to get a "run-only" full voltage connection? Neither the
> TSM
>
> You can use the "heater - A/C" connection in the fuse panel. The heater
> should only work with the ignition on (that's the way it is on my '78
> bronco). I'm not sure how much current a pump takes - 20 amps as in the
> other post sounds ridiculous to me; 240 watts for a small gasoline pump??
> I
> would not expect it to use anything more than a few amps - in which case
> you can safely hook it up to the fused side of the heater. Does the pump
> say how much current it needs? If it's more than 5-10 amps you'd be better
> off using a relay. You can still use the fuse panel to power the relay - I
> wouldn't touch the coil if it is not necessary.
>
>
>
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>
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:23:22 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE Perf - Hey everybody!

Hey guys, didja miss me ? :)

I had a great time out in CO workin on Jeff's truck and chattin with DaveR
... lots of big plans for my truck now ... just gotta get it back from Dad
;)

We got to mess with the Sanderson headers for the FE, and some March pullies
... that 428 should be one mean machine when he gets it fired up ...

So what'd I miss ? :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:06:26 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

>From: Bas van der Veer
>Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations
>
>How does one install a tachometer anyway?
>A mechanical one would be a pain

Yo Bas:

To use a mechanical tachometer, your distributor has to accommodate the tach's
drive gear (much like a speedometer setup). The only readily available
distributors w/ such a provision (AFAIK) are the Mallory units. The stock Ford
distributor does not accommodate a mechanical tach.

>.. I guess I would have to look for one that has
>some sort of electrical / induction pickup at
>the coil or spark plug wires. Right now I have
>a little handheld digital multimeter that has a
>tach in it. I just use it to set and tune the idle.

For your purposes, an electronic tach should work fine. Basically, it works
about the same way as your handheld meter. They usually tap into the coil
primary ground lead for the tach trigger signal and use +/- 12V power source and
maybe an extra +12V source for the internal light. Most tachs I've seen come w/
decent installation instructions.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 11:43:32 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> >.. I guess I would have to look for one that has
> >some sort of electrical / induction pickup at

> For your purposes, an electronic tach should work fine.
> Basically, it works
> about the same way as your handheld meter. They usually tap
> into the coil
> primary ground lead for the tach trigger signal and use +/- 12V
> power source and


Yo Dave, have you seen the ones you just wrap around the spark plug
wire!?!?!? I couldnt' believe it, but they have a section of stripped wire
that you wrap x number of times around the spark plug wire ... it was pretty
cool, but the one we had wasn't working right (called cheapest one you can
find) ... at any rate thought I'd mention they are out there ...

Personally I would go with the wire in tach, and a brand name one to insure
some accuracy ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:49:41
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

>I have seen factory tachometers used in 1980-82 F-series trucks w/ the
351M/400
>labeled w/ a 5.5K rpm redline. This is probably a safe limit, however, w/
the
>stock Motorcraft 2150 2V truck carburetor, my 351M was huffing and puffing by
>about 3.5K rpm and could barely get to 4K rpm.

Hmm, mine seems to be willing to go faster and faster, even if you force
the tranny not to shift up.. What's the C6 2nd gear again? 2.1:1? Yeah then
it does 4K no problem. I just figure, twice the rpm is four times the wear,
if it can keep up at 2k rpm I'll do that instead.

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:33:08
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

>Personally I would go with the wire in tach, and a brand name one to insure
>some accuracy ...

My thoughts exactly, a bad gauge can be worse than no gauge.. What was the
saying again.. oh yeah, "a little knowledge can be dangerous" - oh so true.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:45:35 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> >I have seen factory tachometers used in 1980-82 F-series trucks w/ the
> 351M/400
> >labeled w/ a 5.5K rpm redline. This is probably a safe limit,
> however, w/
> the
> >stock Motorcraft 2150 2V truck carburetor, my 351M was huffing
> and puffing by
> >about 3.5K rpm and could barely get to 4K rpm.
>
> Hmm, mine seems to be willing to go faster and faster, even if you force
> the tranny not to shift up..

Uhm...have I really been gone that long ? The motor should continue to wind
up until a) it blows up b) it runs out of breathing room or c) the force
required to move the vehicle will be greater than the force it can create...
so if you are using low range, or a gear other than drive (or top gear for
you maual guys) you will likely do a or b first ... I assume it was Dave
that posted about it wheezing with the factory 2V on it ...


> What's the C6 2nd gear again?
> 2.1:1? Yeah then
> it does 4K no problem.

What is that 50? 55? depending on your gear ratio and tire size of course
... are you trying to figure revs from mph ?

I obviously missed something big ... the Mustang boards (try www.corral.net
or www.sn95.com) have some calculators to figure the revs out if you know
your gears and such ... or vice versa I think ... anyway they may be able to
help you out ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 21:33:20
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> > >stock Motorcraft 2150 2V truck carburetor, my 351M was huffing
> > and puffing by
> > >about 3.5K rpm and could barely get to 4K rpm.
> > Hmm, mine seems to be willing to go faster and faster, even if you force
> > the tranny not to shift up..
>Uhm...have I really been gone that long ? The motor should continue to wind
>up until a) it blows up b) it runs out of breathing room or c) the force
>required to move the vehicle will be greater than the force it can create...
>so if you are using low range, or a gear other than drive (or top gear for
>you maual guys) you will likely do a or b first ... I assume it was Dave
>that posted about it wheezing with the factory 2V on it ...

2V = 2-barrel carb? I have that too, also motorcraft.. I do have a high
flow air filter, what's the name again, those $60 washable million miles
things.. anyway it makes a BIG difference in power. Even at the freeway, if
I floor the pedal the vacuum gauge drops to a dead zero. Next thing will
have to be headers. Do those help in low end power too?

> > What's the C6 2nd gear again?
> > 2.1:1? Yeah then
> > it does 4K no problem.
>
>What is that 50? 55? depending on your gear ratio and tire size of course
>... are you trying to figure revs from mph ?

That's how we started, I figured 55 mph in third gear with 3.54 diff and
33" tires would yield about 2000 rpm, the big unknown here is how much slip
in the torque converter adds to that.

>I obviously missed something big ... the Mustang boards (try www.corral.net
>or www.sn95.com) have some calculators to figure the revs out if you know
>your gears and such ... or vice versa I think ... anyway they may be able to
>help you out ...

Gears and tires are pure math, but I don't have much of a clue about the
torque converter. I heard the slip isn't all that big - but what's "not
big"? 2000 -> 2100 rpm??



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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:04:14 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 351M rpm's and calculations

> 2V = 2-barrel carb? I have that too, also motorcraft..

Yup, 2 Venturi's is where the V comes from, or so I'm told ... (in the
'stang market now 2V = 2 Valve :) ... most of us had those from the
factory, heck even the Jeeps run them!


> I do have a high
> flow air filter, what's the name again, those $60 washable million miles
> things.. anyway it makes a BIG difference in power.

K&N ... yeah I've got one in my car and one in my truck ... helped the car a
lot after I opened up the exhaust ...t he truck loved it too, can hear the
secondaries kick in (4V Holley)


> Next thing will
> have to be headers. Do those help in low end power too?
>

They will help some, depends on your manifold design though, I'm not
familiar with the M series, have to ask DaveR for sure what works ;) Maybe
he can try those shorties/block huggers like we have in CJ's truck :)

> That's how we started, I figured 55 mph in third gear with 3.54 diff and
> 33" tires would yield about 2000 rpm, the big unknown here is
> how much slip
> in the torque converter adds to that.
>

That's always the question ... though an efficient torque converter
shouldn't slip much above its stall revs ... also the wind speeds and such
will have an effect ... lockup torque converters are also a possiblity, the
idea there is when the slip's not needed, they lock up with a clutch
mechanism and work like a manual tranny then ... no idea how these retrofit
into something that didnt' come on the vehicle, but may be worth asking a
tranny shop about ...

> Gears and tires are pure math, but I don't have much of a clue about the
> torque converter. I heard the slip isn't all that big - but what's "not
> big"? 2000 -> 2100 rpm??
>

All depends on the converter you're using and stuff ... if you aim for 2000
and end up at 2500, well there's probably a problem, but if you end up
around 2200, I think that would probably be alright, but you'll know from
your numbers which side you'll be closest too ... (a higher stall converter
will get you more "slop" generally speaking)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:06:16 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE Perf - Power valve.

Lee writes: >>Ive got a carb problem for all you guys and gals. The
>truck opened up for maybe a quarter mile and when I got to the stop >light the darn thing would hardly idle at 200rpm and burning quite >rich.

>power valve ruptured!!!

Probably right Azie.Same thing happened to me.Tore &*%$ Holley
off,replaced power valve still ran like a ch*vy.Tore carb off again....


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