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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #242
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perf-list-digest Tuesday, September 21 1999 Volume 02 : Number 242



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Trans Questions
FTE Perf - A Little help, please!
Re: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!
FTE Perf - carburetor problems
Re: FTE Perf - carburetor problems
Re: FTE Perf - carburetor problems

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 18:58:28 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - Trans Questions

What 5 speed Trans (5th. overdrive) was used behind a late model 460 in a
2WD truck?
What kind of linkage was used for the clutch; Manual ,or Hydraulic?
Would it have a bolt on flange or a slip yoke for the output?
What would the Torque rating for this 5 spd. Trans be?

TIA.
MUEL
79 Bronco 400, 4spd.
75 F250 4x4


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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 12:17:33 -0500
From: "William Zellmann"
Subject: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!

While I'm doing some other work on my '82 F100, I decided to add an electric
fuel pump and oil-pressure switch. Well, the instructions for wiring the
pump say to wire it in to a "run-only" hot connection--but they also
specifically say NOT to wire it to the coil, since the coil may not get a
full 12 volts.

Okay, I understand that, since I know that some vehicles have resistors in
the coil circuit (though I'm not sure about my truck). At the moment, I
can't hook up a battery and test circuits. So, can anyone suggest a circuit
I can tap into to get a "run-only" full voltage connection? Neither the TSM
nor my Chilton's book identify circuits as battery, accessory or run-only
circuits!

It would be neatest and most convenient to tap in at the fuse panel, but, of
course, I could also tap into a wire. Any advice would be appreciated!

Bill Zellmann
'82 F100 I6

"therapy helps, but screaming obscenities is cheaper!"

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 21:31:26 -0500
From: tvsjr sprynet.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!

Come off the battery to an SPST relay. Take the relay control line to the
coil. Relays are much less picky about their voltage tolerances for
control. I have a very large communications setup in my Expedition, and the
relays will operate to about 9 volts. Make sure you get a relay that can
handle the current that you need to run through it, and make sure that the
relay is NOT solid-state. Solid-state relays use electronic rather than
mechanical switching methods, and they like proper voltage. Plus, I like to
keep my add-ons separate from the car wiring. Relays require about
200milliamps, while your pump probably draws 20 amps, so you can use any
small wire to tap off of, rather than needing something in the 10ga
category. Also, if you wire to the wrong thing in the truck, you might
cause other problems (although there's a lot less problems to be had in an
82 F100).

Terry

At 12:17 PM 09/18/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>While I'm doing some other work on my '82 F100, I decided to add an electric
>fuel pump and oil-pressure switch. Well, the instructions for wiring the
>pump say to wire it in to a "run-only" hot connection--but they also
>specifically say NOT to wire it to the coil, since the coil may not get a
>full 12 volts.
>
>Okay, I understand that, since I know that some vehicles have resistors in
>the coil circuit (though I'm not sure about my truck). At the moment, I
>can't hook up a battery and test circuits. So, can anyone suggest a circuit
>I can tap into to get a "run-only" full voltage connection? Neither the TSM
>nor my Chilton's book identify circuits as battery, accessory or run-only
>circuits!
>
>It would be neatest and most convenient to tap in at the fuse panel, but, of
>course, I could also tap into a wire. Any advice would be appreciated!
>
>Bill Zellmann
>'82 F100 I6
>
>"therapy helps, but screaming obscenities is cheaper!"
>
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 23:05:30 EDT
From: Genlee97 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - carburetor problems

Ive got a carb problem for all you guys and gals. The other day I had my
truck opened up for maybe a quarter mile and when I got to the stop light the
darn thing would hardly idle at 200rpm and burning quite rich. The next day
I disassembled the carb(Holley 4180 600 cfm, 302 cu. in.) for any possible
problems. The only thing I found was a broken o-ring on the float needle in
the primary float needle. Once I got a hold of a rebuild kit I rebuilt the
carb and put in new floats, needles, gaskets, etc. After that was done and I
set the float levels to specs in the kit, I slapped the carb on and once I
tried to fire the engone back up it would still barely idle and run very
rich. Even after lowering the float levels, I still could not lean out the
mixture. The darn problem has taken up a bunch of time and I'm about to send
it to our mechanic; but being a starving college student I dont want to throw
down alot of cash for something that I might be able to fix myself. Am I
missing something something obvious here? Thanks alot in advance for any
feedback, you guys are great.

Lee
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 22:01:15 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - carburetor problems

> Ive got a carb problem for all you guys and gals. The other day I had
my
> truck opened up for maybe a quarter mile and when I got to the stop light
the
> darn thing would hardly idle at 200rpm and burning quite rich>
> Lee
..........

Sounds like it could be the choke. Automatic chokes are nice when
they're adjusted & working properly, but I prefer a manual choke in my 69
F250's.

Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:51:50 -0500
From: Steve Randa
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - carburetor problems

Be careful and use a dab of vaseline with the o-ring on the needle and
seat. I chewed up mine one time putting it back in and had the very same
result. The bowl would over-flow and kill the engine. Found parts of the
o-ring in the bowl.

Steve Randa

Genlee97 aol.com wrote:
>
> Ive got a carb problem for all you guys and gals. The other day I had my
> truck opened up for maybe a quarter mile and when I got to the stop light the
> darn thing would hardly idle at 200rpm and burning quite rich. The next day
> I disassembled the carb(Holley 4180 600 cfm, 302 cu. in.) for any possible
> problems. The only thing I found was a broken o-ring on the float needle in
> the primary float needle. Once I got a hold of a rebuild kit I rebuilt the
> carb and put in new floats, needles, gaskets, etc. After that was done and I
> set the float levels to specs in the kit, I slapped the carb on and once I
> tried to fire the engone back up it would still barely idle and run very
> rich. Even after lowering the float levels, I still could not lean out the
> mixture. The darn problem has taken up a bunch of time and I'm about to send
> it to our mechanic; but being a starving college student I dont want to throw
> down alot of cash for something that I might be able to fix myself. Am I
> missing something something obvious here? Thanks alot in advance for any
> feedback, you guys are great.
>
> Lee
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

End of perf-list-digest V2 #242....


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