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To: perf-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #241
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perf-list-digest Monday, September 20 1999 Volume 02 : Number 241



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Re: Transmission problem
FTE Perf - holley headache
FTE Perf - RE: still need headers
Re: FTE Perf - still need headers
Re: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!
Re: [FTE Perf - Spark Plug wars... ]
Re: [FTE Perf - Spark Plug wars... ]
Re: FTE Perf - holley headache
FTE Perf - Front posi? in 92 F-150...
RE: FTE Perf - 302 loud ticking noise
FTE Perf - How do I install Traction-Lok clutches?

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 05:07:07 -0600
From: nightcrawler
Subject: FTE Perf - Re: Transmission problem

Hi, My name is Robert ,

I was wondering if I could pick your brains about a transmission problem that I am
having.

I just completed a rebuild of a ford 4 speed transmission with over drive. ( rug )

The transmission is back together like the manual shows. 1979 ford shop manual,
as this trans. go's in a 78 ford f150 behind a 351m engine 2whl.

But I can't get the trans. to shift right. Sitting with the truck running and the
clutch pressed in the trans. feels normal, being able to shift in to any gear, thou
a little tight.
Releasing the clutch with the trans. still in neutral, the engine bogs down. But
there is no movement on the trucks part in any direction. When I do shift the
trans. in to a gear and try to drive it seems fine except it feels like I am trying
to drive with the brakes on. Then I can't get the damn thing out of the gear I
just put it in.

How do you tell that the shift forks on the transmission are pointing in the right
directions , and that the transmission is truly in neutral? The picture in the
manual shows the forks ,as one down, two up from the front of the trans.
Mine are one first straight down, second and third up but at a 15% angle , and a
25% angle. I can not get the third from the front to go straight up.
Have I put the transmission together wrong in some way or just have the forks wrong
? Any help that you can provide would greatly appreciated.


Robert
nightcrawler pcisys.net

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 09:51:09 -0500
From: "David Claflin"
Subject: FTE Perf - holley headache

When you rebuilt it did you adjust the secondaries? Holleys, or at least the
two I have had, were prone to the secondaries not closing all the way to the
stop after being actuated. This would let fuel in through the secondary port
even though it was idling. There is a stop screw on the secondary you can
adjust. Let me know I can scan the page out of the manual if you want. If
all else fails with it get a Carter.
Super Dave

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:32:45 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: still need headers

>From: Margit Walden

SNIP
>my friend is crawling up my butt

KINKY!

SNIP
>he needs headers for his 56 pickup with a 351-c 2v heads and
> a volare front end. this seems to be a preety common set
>up.

Sanderson
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson.htm


Muel

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:37:40 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - still need headers

Try these 2 places. Sanderson probably has some headers that work right out
of the box.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordpowertrain.com/openingall.htm

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson8.htm

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Margit Walden
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 3:53 PM
Subject: FTE Perf - still need headers


>help me please. my friend is crawling up my butt because i told him
>fte would answer all his questions. he needs headers for his 56 pickup
>with a 351-c 2v heads and a volare front end. this seems to be a preety
>common set up. im sure there is many companies that make headers for
>his truck. any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks,
>bronco buster



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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:14:12 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - A Little help, please!

At 12:17 PM 9/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>While I'm doing some other work on my '82 F100, I decided to add an electric
>fuel pump and oil-pressure switch. Well, the instructions for wiring the
>pump say to wire it in to a "run-only" hot connection--but they also
>specifically say NOT to wire it to the coil, since the coil may not get a
>full 12 volts.
>
>Okay, I understand that, since I know that some vehicles have resistors in
>the coil circuit (though I'm not sure about my truck). At the moment, I
>can't hook up a battery and test circuits. So, can anyone suggest a circuit
>I can tap into to get a "run-only" full voltage connection?

I agree with whoever said to use a relay.
A regular oil pressure switch probably wont be able to handle the current
that a fuel pump draws...
Also remember that when you start the vehicle in the morning, the pump
won't begin to run until oil pressure comes up. If the truck sits for
a long time and the carb is dry this might require quite a bit of
cranking before you get fuel.
A work around for this is to use the relay and some diodes like 1N4005's
and set it up so the pump always runs with the key in the "crank" position,
regardless of oil pressure.
Connect one relay contact to the battery and the other to the fuel pump.

Typical circuits for the coil side of the relay might look like these:


If OP switch is 2-terminal, then:

Hot with IGN on ----OPswitch----1N4005>----|----Relay coil----Ground.
|
Hot during crank ---------------1N4005>----|


If OP switch is just a one terminal switch that grounds thru the case,
then you may need an NPN transistor and some resistors to make it work.
(any NPN transistor rated at 2amps or more and 80 volts or more would
be suitable. D44C4 is a pretty easy to find one.

Wire like this:


Hot with IGN on ---1N4005>---Relay coil-----|----OPswitch---|-Ground.
| |
C|--| |
Hot during crank --1N4005>--1Kohms--|---B| |
| E|>-----------------|
| |
|-------10Kohms---------|

As far as where to get the switched voltage to run it, I wouldn't
use the coil wire. If you have an electric choke wire that's hot
with the key on, that's a good place to get it. If your choke hooks
up to the alternator stator output, or if you don't have an
electric choke, then you may need to go under the dash to get
your switched +12v.


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: 19 Sep 99 16:42:18 EDT
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: [FTE Perf - Spark Plug wars... ]

"Keith Christensen" wrote:
> The 'Champion/Bosch/Autolite/Split-Fire' discussion will never end!
> (Those who claim brand loyalty need to learn to 'read plugs' (that's be=
yond
> this post-- I'm beat !)

So true.. you can start a 'discussion' easily by asking what the best
plug/oil/gas/additives are. :-)

> =

> I'm gonna throw another contender in to this.. the NipponDenso(ND) "H=
ot
U"

How about just plain ol' NGK? I've had good results in various Asian veh=
icles
with 'em.

> I used to run them in a C**Y Vega (don't laugh too loud, please!!) I=

> gained 2 MPG and cold-weather starting ease over other brands.

I wont laugh.. I used to have a yellow Pacer.

> Plugs are cheap.. play with them, see what works best.
> (unfortunately, getting at them is a pain at times)

Sage advice. Now let me really murk up the discussion by relating what's=
in
my 2.8 B-II...

AC! :-0

I'm sure this shocks a lot of people who know my fondness for Ford stuff =
but
there's a reason. Over the last 14 years I've changed thousands of plugs=

(rough guess.. 600,000) and I've often pulled in a vehicle that seemed to=
be
running well at 70-115K miles just to discover the original AC plugs with=
the
center electrode eroded away down to (or even below!) the insulator.

Tim

PS: Sorry for the lag between the original and this reply, I was one of =
the
people involved in the flooding of SE NC and had no road home. (Everythi=
ng OK
here thankfully.)

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:44:32 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD AOL.COM
Subject: Re: [FTE Perf - Spark Plug wars... ]

In a message dated 9/19/99 1:42:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
manicmechanicNC netscape.net writes:


the
people involved in the flooding of SE NC and had no road home. (Everythi=
ng OK
here thankfully.) >>

Dont apologize, glad to hear your ok, best wishes to all those less fortunate.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:59:26 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - holley headache

> When you rebuilt it did you adjust the secondaries? Holleys, or at least
the
> two I have had, were prone to the secondaries not closing all the way to
the
> stop after being actuated. This would let fuel in through the secondary
port
> even though it was idling. There is a stop screw on the secondary you can
> adjust. Let me know I can scan the page out of the manual if you want. If
> all else fails with it get a Carter.
> Super Dave
...............

The last Holley I rebuilt had a very similar problem with the
secondaries. All that was required to fix the carb was to remove the link
between the primary and secondary throttle shafts and bend it slightly. The
link will not allow the secondaries to open until the primaries do.
If anybody on this list has a Holley 4bbl carb and doesn't want it for
any reason, just let me know and I'd be more than happy to take it off your
hands.


Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth


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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:02:02 EDT
From: ACMERCG AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - Front posi? in 92 F-150...

is there any way to know for sure, like vin #'s or something, to tell if my
front diff is a posi? How would I find out if it was an option? The reason
I ask is while replacing the fuel filter today, I just happen to spin the
front driveshaft and noticed that the axles were spinning the same way, which
would normally indicate some sort of posi or locker setup. To the best of my
knowledge, you couldn't get my truck with a posi, although I have heard of
older 1/2 ton trucks that had them. I'm getting ready to change the diff
lube too and should probally put the right additive in, if I need it...

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
with no phone or power
92 F-150 Nite 302/AOD
D44TTB/ 8.8 BW1356E
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:26:50 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 302 loud ticking noise

Sounds like an exhaust leak. Could be a bad gasket or a cracked manifold.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: don neomagic.com[SMTP:don neomagic.com]
> Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 7:28 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com;
> small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Perf - 302 loud ticking noise
>
>
> I wasn't sure which list to post this to, so I'm hitting three lists.
> If it starts looking familiar, I apologize.
>
> I've got a '90 Ranger with a '92 302 transplanted into it w/ AOD
> transmission.
> A few weeks ago I noticed a slight ticking noise that I thought was a
> lifter.
> It got louder when I shifted into drive with the brake on. During the
> first
> week the noise came & went and was louder under a load. At idle it is
> very
> faint. Now it has gotten worse and is sharper & louder than a lifter and
> I'm
> thinking it may be exhaust related. It's not always present when I start
> the
> truck but always shows up as the engine warms up. I poked around with a
> rubber hose on a stethescope and there's no noise inside the valve cover.
> The noise seems loudest at the passenger side rear of the engine.
> Unfortunately,
> the 302 is a tight fit and the A/C evaporator, the valve cover and the air
> intake all form an interference fit in this area so I can't really
> directly
> observe the engine there. The noise is audible over a very loud 3" Borla
> muffler, so I'd say it's significant.
> I've got a mechanical temp guage and the engine temp has never been over
> 220.
> So does anyone have any suggestions as to what the cause might be and any
> methods
> how I could narrow this down?
>
> Thanks,
> Don
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>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:40:04 -0700
From: "Tom Ewing"
Subject: FTE Perf - How do I install Traction-Lok clutches?

I've got a 7.5inch Traction-Lok diff in my 92Ranger with 4.11 gears.
Could someone refer me to a book or whatever source that is readily
available that would walk me through the process of installing
replacement clutches? I've never even looked at one of these units
close up, so I know nothing about project. If I'm overcomplicating
this, meaning its some kind of obvious bolt in once I remove the rear
cover, please tell me so. I've got a Chilton book that includes my....

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