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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #214
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perf-list-digest Tuesday, August 24 1999 Volume 02 : Number 214



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
RE: FTE Perf - V10 + Paxton Novi 200 Supercharger
RE: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements
RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing
FTE Perf - RE: tranny swap
Re: FTE Perf - 84 ford-f150
FTE Perf - Oil Pan Gasket
Re: FTE Perf - differential gearing
RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing, forgot to add
Re: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements
FTE Perf - High Octane
FTE Perf - AOD & E4OD
RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing
RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing
FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
Re: FTE Perf - differential gearing, forgot to add
FTE Perf - Re: Crude vs Synth/and Big Bump theory
FTE Perf - oil change
RE: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements
FTE Perf - Holley problen
RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing

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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 08:45:04 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...

> Engine: 1970 351W with approximately 70k miles on it..
>
Oh, so its just getting broke in :)

> I decide to put in Castrol Syntex BLEND.. 20-50.. new Tough Duty Fram
> oil filter...
>
> Restart the engine to check tranny fluid level.. now I have a knock.. a
> deep base knock that sounds like it is coming from the lower end (like
>
> Could/would going to a synthetic blend have worsend a problem that was
> hiding behind the "normal" 20-50?
>
> Guess I pull it back out and get the short block rebuilt a little
> earlier than expected... have the heads ready to go anyway...
>
> Is this strange or what???
>

Guess what, you're the second guy I know to personally have problems with
this blend, and the other guy I know ... he knows 3 more that have had
problems ... likely you had this problem starting anyway and it just became
evident with the "thinner" oil. The problem that my buddy had was that one
of his seals blew out (rear main) and now he's just leaving trails of oil
everywhere (if he drives it).

Yes, the synthetics will "worsen" a problem in that they will cause it to
show up sooner, switching back that noise will probably go away, but come
back eventually. This was the reason I yanked out my 360. It wasn't making
any other odd noises or anything, but at idle the knocking was like the
"tell tale heart" in my head. (wow, literature AND Ford trucks in the same
post!) I drove my truck for over a year with this noise and it never got
worse.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 08:48:48 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - V10 + Paxton Novi 200 Supercharger

> I've installed a Superchip on my '99 F-250SD SC LWB, and have a Banks
> Powerpack intake/exhaust kit on order, which will be installed within the
> next few weeks. My Grand Plan is to finish the performance
> enhancements off
> with a Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger designed for the V10.
>
> I'd appreciate hearing from anyone with experience along these lines with
> the V10, particularly with the supercharger.

Sorry I don't have any experience with this, but after the charger and all
that jazz be sure and get a dyno tune, or at least check to be sure you're
not leaning out/pinging or anything nasty, there are guys who've gained an
additional 70+hp from dyno tuning with a super!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 08:53:12 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements

> I've got a stock '95 F150, 4.9 L engine, 5spd and 3.55 open diff.
>
> I'm thinking of:
> 1. K&N filtercharger kit

A great mod, never have to throw out another paper element.

> 3. split headers from Clifford performance, performance cat.
> converter and 3" cat-back exhaust (probably flowmaster)

Stock you should have split manifolds right ? From what I've gathered from
Tony (who somehow became a 6 perf. guru) you will likely lose low end
torque, especially if you go with dual 3"! he did a 2 ->1 style exhaust and
said that low end came back, and his high end wasn't hurt too bad. This is
with a carbbed motor, but the physics still apply.

> 4. (eventually) change the open diff to a 3.55 limited slip

Good idea here, I'd love to put one under my truck as well ... ahhh so many
parts, so little money...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:04:58 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing

Sleddog comes through again with some great thoughts...

> Your diff is slipping. both should spin. might need new clutch pack?
> maybe just some posi additive? don't know.
>

The limited slip diff was optional wasn't it ? Especially on the 4cyl I'd
be surprised if you had one ...

> as for the gearing, lower gearing might help. do you have traction at
> launch? or do you bite well. if you got bite, the lower gear will
> definatly give better launches. but you will also have another shift to
> accomplish at the track end. bad thing? you decide. another
> possiblity is
> that even hitting the next gear, no acceleration will occur. ET
> may drop
> from the better start, but the trap speed may not change much.
>

This is very true and almost exactly what I was going to ask. What gear are
you in when you go through the traps ? Are you between shifts? (ie too long
for 3rd, but too short for 4th)

> overall, if it was me, i'd try a test if i had some extra tires around.
> run a smaller dia tire to simulate the gear change in the diff. maybe
> could give you an idea of what it can do for you. being that it
> is bracket
> racing though, consistancy is important. will another shift at
> the end of
> the track reduce consistancy?
>

Excellent thoughts there ...

> Maybe some of you gear ratio folks could give me a hand. I'm bracket
> drag racing a 92Ranger 2.3L for the quarter mile.
>

One thing we did forget to ask ... 5spd or auto ?


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:33:50 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: tranny swap

>>it seems that there needs to be a gear between 1st and 2nd for starting
up
>>1st is to low and 2nd is to high, and 3rd to 4th is a too big of ratio
>>difference.
>>the drivtrain is 351W-T-18-NP208-9in
>>what is involved in replacing the T-18 witha C-6 if I found one out of
>>a 4x4 ford same motor??

More than I would care to undertake! Before you tear out a perfectly
good (?) transmission (and pay for a replacement) you might want to try
changing your differential gear ratios. Much easier and cheaper! If
your truck is mostly used on-road, install a numerically lower gear to
bring down your RPM's. This will give you a useable 1st gear, and 4th
will become a decent overdrive. OTOH, if your truck does a lot of
off-road mud-hawg stuff you might want to use a numerically higher ratio.
That would turn 2nd gear into your "starting up" gear and 1st into a
granny underdrive for rock crawling and stump pulling. Either way, put
the money you save into engine improvements: more low-end torque and a
broader powerband would also help your situation.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150
'73 F100

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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:57:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 84 ford-f150

> engine? Have you
> installed the 4bbl intake system or ridden in a
> vehicle with that done, and
> is it an improvement?

I raced against one that ran a
14.015 afreakinhunderedandtwomph. It smoked my
V8pinto like a fatass ceegar. I have plenty of
excuses ready for anyone that's interested. hehehe

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87
289 Pinto waiting patiently
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:53:54 PDT
From: "Roger Lane"
Subject: FTE Perf - Oil Pan Gasket

I have an 89 F250 4x4 w/ 5.0L. I need to replace the oil pan gasket.
Here's the story, I recently installed a rear main seal only to discover
that the pan gasket was leaking also. I don't think I did it any good by
supporting the motor with a piece of wood and a jack under the oil pan while
I removed the tranny.
Now for the big question. I have seen on this list guy's (and gal's)
talking about a one piece gasket. If anyone has installed one of these,
where did you get it and any tips or tricks you can pass alone?

TIA

Roger Lane

"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience."




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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 10:15:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - differential gearing

- --- Tom Ewing wrote:
> Maybe some of you gear ratio folks could give me a
> hand. I'm bracket
> drag racing a 92Ranger 2.3L for the quarter mile.
> It has the standard

Hey Tom,

Just to get it said, when you measure your tires you
want to measure from the axle centerline to the ground
and then double that measurement.

Sooooo. Things to do to make it faster:
K&N air filter
Premium fuel - ONLY RUN 1/4 TANK for weight savings
Try doing your burnout test with different tire
pressures. Measure the width until you find the
pressure that has the widest burnout. Start at 40 psi
and work your way down from there.
Gears can cut off a 1/2 second when going from 3.08's
to a 3.73. Don't know what it would be starting from
your 3.45's but it still would be significant. Since
you only use it for dragging, I would go with a 4.10
rear gear. Thank god for 5-spds!

As for the limited slip.... If the truck came with it
and it's only burning one tire then that's not good.
Before going to the shop, I would check for dragging
brakes and change the fluid, don't forget the friction
modifier.

Another cool mod is to snake some clothes dryer
tubing, available from your local hardware store, from
the opening of the airbox (before the filter) under
the bumper. You can remove it in about 5 minutes for
the drive home and it can cut .05-.15 seconds from
your time. Also, powershift the f%$^ out of that
thing. If your passenger's arm gets in the way when
you shift, it should get broken, that's their fault.
If your foot comes off the floor at any point between
the green light and the turn-off, you're not doing it
right. Watch out for the third gear when doing this,
the T5 is weak there. Aggressive driving can net some
big gains and remember if you're running brackets,
consistency is much more important than speed. You
must do everything the same way every race. I've
smoked some very fast cars by cutting .001-.004
lights. The race is won at the tree.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87
289 pinto waiting patiently
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 10:18:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing, forgot to add

> accomplish at the track end. bad thing? you decide.
> another possiblity is
> that even hitting the next gear, no acceleration
> will occur. ET may drop
> from the better start, but the trap speed may not
> change much.

Almost forgot, Tom. You will need to experiment with
your combo but given the choice, I would tach that
mutha up before I shifted into 4th gear. My 86 5.0
ran 14.2. I shifted at 5,300 and went through the
traps in third at about 5,500, or roughly 98 mph. If
shifted into 4th, the times dropped to about 14.6's.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87
289 pinto waiting patiently

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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 10:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements

Those 4.9L sixes sound GREAT with a big ol' 3"
exhaust.

Sounds like a very nice truck.


- --- phydeaux koyote.com wrote:
> I've got a stock '95 F150, 4.9 L engine, 5spd and
> 3.55 open diff.
>
> I'm thinking of:
> 1. K&N filtercharger kit
> 2. Jacobs Electonics Pro-street ignition system
> 3. split headers from Clifford performance,
> performance cat.
> converter and 3" cat-back exhaust (probably
> flowmaster)
> 4. (eventually) change the open diff to a 3.55
> limited slip
>
>
> Jeff & Melinda Parish
>
> phydeaux koyote.com
>
> "Choose you this day whom ye will serve...
> but as for me and my house, we will
> serve the Lord."
> -Joshua 24:15 (KJV)
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 17:36:44 GMT
From: 88biixlt fncool.com
Subject: FTE Perf - High Octane

I've heard that my '88 BII has a knock sensor. Does this also mean
that the computer will adjust the timing if I use higher octane
gasoline? I seem to remember this conversation taking place a while
ago, but I can't find it in my old emails...

JC
'88 BII XLT
235/70R15s
40ch CB
(2)10k tow hooks
Removed Airbox
K&N
Light bar
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 13:47:15 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - AOD & E4OD

Was the E4OD ever offered with the Small (351W) bolt pattern??

When did the AOD change to Electronic shift???

What is the strongest AOD years/vehicles???

Here are the reasons for my questions: My wife has purchased a '76 F100 2wd
styleside. It currently has a 4speed Granny geared transmission (NP435 or T18)
and 302 with 3.25 open 9" rear. I purchased a 351W Saturday (core) for rebuild
and installation, but she also wants an automatic.

While I'm on the lists - Where is the best information for the 400 cu in W
series, and which heads do I want to use. I'm looking for horsepower and torque
in the 1800-4800 rpm range.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:42:50 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing

> Sooooo. Things to do to make it faster:
> K&N air filter
> Premium fuel - ONLY RUN 1/4 TANK for weight savings

Does this work at the track with a pickup ? I suppose the 4banger won't be
as torquey as the v8's but at the auto-x I've noticed too little gas and
that back end is uncontrollable...


> Try doing your burnout test with different tire
> pressures. Measure the width until you find the
> pressure that has the widest burnout. Start at 40 psi
> and work your way down from there.

40's pretty high again, especially for a truck and rear tires, over airing
the fronts will cut down on your rolling resistance, but on the rears you
want a big foot print. For auto-x again I end up around 34 for street tires
in the rear (I have to worry about sidewall intrusion), but if I was just
doing straight line, I think I can get down to 28 with no loss of
footprint...anyway 35 might be a more productive starting point ...


> As for the limited slip.... If the truck came with it
> and it's only burning one tire then that's not good.
> Before going to the shop, I would check for dragging
> brakes and change the fluid, don't forget the friction
> modifier.
>

Also be sure your tires have similar pressures, as little as 3psi difference
can cause a one wheel wonder to happen there, especially if the clutch's
haven't been repacked and the extra's added...

> If your passenger's arm gets in the way when
> you shift, it should get broken, that's their fault.

If you have a passenger aren't you adding more weight than you're saving by
having a nearly empty tank ? Maybe I just have fat friends ...


> If your foot comes off the floor at any point between
> the green light and the turn-off, you're not doing it
> right.

Uhm, okay, I guess I don't do it right then ...I have NEVER tried to shift
without takin my foot off the floor, its just one of those things that
didn't make sense to me, the gears gotta mesh for things to work, if you
don't throw a syncro doing this then you are just way to lucky ...

> Watch out for the third gear when doing this,
> the T5 is weak there.

Isn't this a 2.3L Ranger we're talkin about ? I thought those had Mazda
gear boxes, not the T5 ...

> The race is won at the tree.
>

I know I'm not much of a drag racer (other than on the street), but some of
the same principles apply to all of racing (ancient racers proverp: Think
light, build light, bud light). With a 2.3L Ranger you've got a very light
starting point. Remove everything that's not bolted down (and some things
that are), spare tire, jack, all that stuff will help. And as I found out
autocrossing, not everyone realizes to shut the a/c off, this includes the
defroster as that uses the air compressor as well, just leave it on Vent or
off to be sure ...

Seems like if I read the original post right we're preaching to the choir
here, and he's just racing this to keep in practice til some other truck
gets done ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 15:11:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - differential gearing

> Does this work at the track with a pickup ? I
> suppose the 4banger won't be
> as torquey as the v8's but at the auto-x I've
> noticed too little gas and
> that back end is uncontrollable...

I haven't raced auto-x so I don't know about the back
end but... When I raced the Mustang (drags) I got a
whole lot more wheelspin with the tank emptier but
actually improved my time. It made it a little easier
to play around with the other guy on the big end as
well. I would guess it just depends on your
combination.

> 40's pretty high again, especially for a truck and
> rear tires, over airing

Yeah, 40 is high. What I wanted him to avoid is a
bias-ply racer telling him to "crank those suckers
down to 8psi so you get the wrinkle wall effect...".
I ruined a couple of sets of BFG's before I figured
that one out! ouch.

> Also be sure your tires have similar pressures, as
> little as 3psi difference

Definitely!

> If you have a passenger aren't you adding more
> weight than you're saving by
> having a nearly empty tank ? Maybe I just have fat
> friends ...

I have a few weight-challenged friends too. LOL. I
always had a passenger so they could tell me what the
other guy was doing and how fast he was coming up on
me. With a V8 I usually lost about .15 on my ET. My
friend's eagle talon loses as much as .4 of his ET
with a passenger.

> didn't make sense to me, the gears gotta mesh for
> things to work, if you
> don't throw a syncro doing this then you are just
> way to lucky ...

Rev limiter. I leave my foot through the carpet and
clutch the shift as fast as I can. My T5 stayed
together while I had the car but I have heard of many
others experiencing a "T5 buffet". I wish I was that
lucky in Reno!

> Isn't this a 2.3L Ranger we're talkin about ? I
> thought those had Mazda
> gear boxes, not the T5 ...

Don't know what the trans is in the Ranger.

And don't forget to let us know how you do at the
track!

Do you think it's possible for an auto-x racer to show
this clutch challenged dragger how to properly
double-clutch? I can not seem to figure that one out.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87
289 pinto waiting patiently
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 15:28:37 PDT
From: "Jeremy Taylor"
Subject: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...

I've always heard that you either start an engine on synthetic and can
change to conventional with no problems, but never start an engine on
conventional and switch to synthetic, especially on an engine which has some
wear on it. something about the wear marks being filled with deposits
(sludge) and the synthetic oil actuallly breaking that natural lubricant
down, causing some bad things....

Jeremy
88 F-250 4x4
with NEW 460
(on conventional-can't afford synthetic after that project!!)


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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 17:46:28 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...

I've heard that you start with conventional to allow the rings to seat
properly and then switch to synth. I have also heard that with an older
engine it's like you said.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Jeremy Taylor[SMTP:jetman36 hotmail.com]
> Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 6:28 PM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
>
> I've always heard that you either start an engine on synthetic and can
> change to conventional with no problems, but never start an engine on
> conventional and switch to synthetic, especially on an engine which has
> some
> wear on it. something about the wear marks being filled with deposits
> (sludge) and the synthetic oil actuallly breaking that natural lubricant
> down, causing some bad things....
>
> Jeremy
> 88 F-250 4x4
> with NEW 460
> (on conventional-can't afford synthetic after that project!!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:01:08 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...

If your junk is worn out then it shows faster. If it's in good shape then
it just makes it last longer without all the noise dampning leak stopping
sludge. It has several purposes, 1. To transfer all to the filter for
cleaning., to lub the metal to metal parts, and last but not the least, to
help reduce the engine heat by taking it to the pan to chill.

Food for thought...With the competiton of Auto makers if this was a cure all
then they would use it to say my engine last longer than your
engine........or.......They would purchase the companys and hold the oil to
keep there shops open....note....have you seen where your local Lincon Merc
dealer is now in the tire, shock, and battery business. Guess they need the
work as FORD LINCON NEVER BREAKS...like the Maytag salesman...haha...



- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Reply-To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
To: "'perf-list ford-trucks.com'"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 17:46:28 -0700
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I've heard that you start with conventional to allow the rings to seat
properly and then switch to synth. I have also heard that with an older
engine it's like you said.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Jeremy Taylor[SMTP:jetman36 hotmail.com]
> Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 6:28 PM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Perf - Weird Thing happened after changing oil...
>
> I've always heard that you either start an engine on synthetic and can
> change to conventional with no problems, but never start an engine on
> conventional and switch to synthetic, especially on an engine which has
> some
> wear on it. something about the wear marks being filled with deposits
> (sludge) and the synthetic oil actuallly breaking that natural lubricant
> down, causing some bad things....
>
> Jeremy
> 88 F-250 4x4
> with NEW 460
> (on conventional-can't afford synthetic after that project!!)
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:17:08 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - differential gearing, forgot to add

In a message dated 8/23/99 10:16:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
v8pinto yahoo.com writes:

>

I remember he said he was shifting it at 4800. I would not hesitate to run
that thing to 5500. My brother has the 2.3 in his 95 and the rev limiter
doesnt kick in till 6k, but thats also where it seems to make most of its
power. Heck I had a 1.6 in an escort that could hold 7500 without a problem.
(Got in a fight with the GF, drove home with it floored in 1st) So like I
say, dont hesitate to wind that lil motor up. You'll be very surprised.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:40:14 EDT
From: FLR150 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - Re: Crude vs Synth/and Big Bump theory

Guys,
On the synthetic issue, my 5.0 had over 65000 on it when I switched it to
synth. I run Mobil 1 and to date, with all the racing and beating on it I do,
the only problem I have had with anything leaking is the valve cover gasket.
And no oil smoke.
Oh and by the way, this past Saturday my truck hit one of those big bumps and
the stuff just kinda fell out of the cats. I will give you the combined
Auburn Pro/Big Bump fallout results from the 1/8th mile on Saturday.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 20:44:27 -0500
From: "David Claflin"
Subject: FTE Perf - oil change

Check this site out, a few years ago I cut open a fram,napa, wix,
motorcraft, and a purolater filter. When I opened the fram I got a little
mad, they should be embarrassed, every since I have only used NAPA or Wix.
Haven't wasted money on a fram since.
Dave

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilters.html

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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 20:48:47 -0500
From: phydeaux koyote.com
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - looking for suggestions on my proposed improvements

> > 3. split headers from Clifford performance, performance cat.
> > converter and 3" cat-back exhaust (probably flowmaster)
>
> Stock you should have split manifolds right ? From what I've gathered from
> Tony (who somehow became a 6 perf. guru) you will likely lose low end
> torque, especially if you go with dual 3"! he did a 2 ->1 style exhaust and
> said that low end came back, and his high end wasn't hurt too bad. This is
> with a carbbed motor, but the physics still apply.

What I'm looking at is split headers to replace the split manifold,
performance cat and a single 3" exhaust. There's no way i'd ever try
a dual 3" on that thing. but I've been hearing that since I've got a
split manifold, I should just do the 3" exhaust and leave it at that. any
thoughts?



Jeff & Melinda Parish

phydeaux koyote.com

"Choose you this day whom ye will serve...
but as for me and my house, we will
serve the Lord."
-Joshua 24:15 (KJV)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 18:56:14 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE Perf - Holley problen....


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