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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #183
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perf-list-digest Saturday, July 24 1999 Volume 02 : Number 183



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Perf - Timed or manifold vacuum
Re: FTE Perf - Timed or manifold vacuum
Re: FTE Perf - power problem
RE: FTE Perf - Forged Crankshaft Spare ?
FTE Perf - Flywheel and Pressure Plate Heat Cracks
Re: FTE Perf - Flywheel and Pressure Plate Heat Cracks
Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:38:20 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Timed or manifold vacuum

>Ok, this is not strictly a truck question, but you guys are smart, so
>I'll ask it anyway! I'm in the process of equipping a '68 302 with a
>new Edelbrock Performer carb.
>
>I have a choice of "timed" or "manifold" vacuum ports on the carb to
>connect the vacuum line from the "tree" on the water inlet (on the tree,
>one goes to the main manifold vacuum fitting behind the carb, one goes
>to the distributor, and one goes to the carb).
>

It seems like someone told me once that you run the manifold to one side of
the T, the ported to the other side, and the timing line to the dist. from
the middle ... hmm... maybe its from the top ... you'd have to talk with
someone who actually had this thing working, or check the vacuum diagrams
to find out for sure which way they went, but this seems like what I've
been told before ... might ask on the 61-79 list or check the archives of
that list, as that seems to be where I heard it ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 13:32:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Timed or manifold vacuum

I just went through this, but with a Holley 600. I
believe for the distributor, you want the timed port.
Should be on the carb somewhere. I have the holley
hooked up like this per Holley techline. They said
not to use manifold vaccuum for the distributor.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87

- --- NRA wrote:
> Ok, this is not strictly a truck question, but you
> guys are smart, so
> I'll ask it anyway! I'm in the process of equipping
> a '68 302 with a
> new Edelbrock Performer carb.
>
> I have a choice of "timed" or "manifold" vacuum
> ports on the carb to

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 13:44:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - power problem

I don't know about this one. I plugged your numbers
into an RPM calculator and it looks like you're
running about 2,170 rpm's at 70 mph. When you are "on
the hills between 3rd and 4th" what mph are you at?
If it's around 50 mph and you have no power I would
guess that your gears are not steep enough for those
beefy 33's. It sounds like you know what's going on
for off-road stuff so you have probably allready
looked at this. If memory serves, and it hardly ever
does, shouldn't you be running about a 4.10 gear with
33's?

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87

- --- Joel Thomas wrote:
> when I accelerate from a dead stop the truck has
> gobs of power
> just not on the hills between 3rd and 4th between
> 2nd and third I have to
> rev it some but there still is power
> I have 3.55 gears with 33's and a 351W taht is not
> to high of a gear
> I know about offroading, I aint rockcrawling just
> muddiong and such.
>
> Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
> 1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
> Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
> 33" BFG MT's.
> Little Rock,Ar
>
>
>
>
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 07:08:31 +1000
From: les
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Forged Crankshaft Spare ?

On Friday, July 23, 1999 1:12 AM, Sleddog [SMTP:kevkem epix.net] wrote:
: Ok, in a boat, rpms and power levels are held up longer, as well as
sudden
: load changes. Yes, here i may like a better crank.
:
: considered at all a custom billet crank? I know crower will make one for
: you if you want to give em $$$. I still myself feel the billet crank
will
: be no better. forged are so hard to find anymore though.

This is the land of Oz. Ford has never used a 460 cid engine as a mass
produced commodity down here. (Instead, Ford gave us the Cleverland Engine
!!) 460's have either been imported separately, or cars such as lincoln
continentals and a few trucks, so parts, as such don't readily exist. I
have been quoted approx $6000 us$ for a crower crank. Thats about $9,500
aus$. the other option is the svo billet and having it hardened and tested.
About $6000 aus$. Hey, it's only money !! How fast do I want to go.....

: Other points to consider:
: slightly overbalancing it.

Already at 52% overbalance

: running aluminum rods, and doing alot of maintainance on them.

Unfortunatly, it's in a boat and to r & r the engine is bad enough, let
alone the high cost of Ally rod maintenance, I've got steel rods, je
pistons at 12.5 :1 on avgas, 460 cid stock stroke. The class capacity limit
is 488cid - that's why I can't drop back to 427/429 cranks.

: consider a quality stud girdle for the bottom end.
: get a good harmonic balancer.

Yes, to both of the above. Done.

: do you have a deep oil pan and some kind of oil control, such as a
scraper?
: if not, make one. oil whip can be worse than just robbing power.
: sleddog

The wet sump is 18 ltr capacity, windage tray and scraper and numerous
other sheet metal traps and baffles to keep the oil in and and around the
oil pick-up in the bottom of the sump. As in a lot of marine apps, the
entire pacific ocean is used for oil cooling.(er....not all at once !!)
I do think we are pushing the envelope. A few years back pulling 7500 rpm
for 10 sec. would have garanteed an engine rebuild. Now we expect to
maintain a consistant 7500 rpm, along with the pounding to the transmission
& prop from the boat skipping across the water ....
The only real problem is the 'shaft fails the cracktesting, everything else
is as it should be. I suspect that if the failed 'shaft was put into an
F100 and driven normally(?), it may well last a long time before total
failure. It's a case of How lucky do you feel ? :-)

Once again, Thank you for you input - it is appreciated.

Regards.

Les W.
The Land of Oz



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:06:31 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE Perf - Flywheel and Pressure Plate Heat Cracks

First of all, I apologize for the long post (induced by Anheuser Busch),
but...

I was quite surprised today when I removed the T-18, bellhousing and
clutch assembly on my 69 F250 with 8,000 miles on new parts. The clutch was
down to the rivets with groves carved into the flywheel and pressure plate
(I expected this), and lots of nasty looking heat cracks in the thick steel
of the flywheel & pressure plate (this I didn't expect).

I've just purchased a new...

1) 390 flywheel (from local Ford dealer)
2) Centerforce dual friction clutch with pressure plate & throwout bearing
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.performanceintl.com/default.htm)
3) Lakewood Blowproof bellhousing (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com/)
4) pilot bearing (not a stock bushing)
5) motor mounts
6) transmission mounts

... and I'm very concerned about just how long this setup will last (with
aggressive use), and will the Lakewood housing provide better protection
then the FoMoCo housing if (or when) the flywheel should scatter at high
RPM's?

I'm also rather curious as to where the weak point in the drive train
will be after I install the new clutch. If (or when) something fails under
extreme use, will it be...

1) my first 390 4bbl engine rebuild
2) T-18 which was rebuilt by a reputable local shop
3) solid non-greasable U-joints
4) driveline or splines
5) 3.55 (Powerloc Posi?) dif which was recently rebuilt
6) full floating axles
7) rear wheel bearings
8) motor mount
9) trans mount

... It's my guess that the next failure will occur in the clutch plates
of the rear dif (#5) , as it was a standard rebuild.

FYI:) Although I've spent countless hours and mega $'s on this truck (which
is as ugly as the day I bought it for $225), I still consider it a practice
exercise for the "real deal" which will be a 73-79 F-series 4x4 with custom
built 460 (along with all items being hand picked, and frame off
restoration... of course). I've been gathering tools, knowledge (saving
related posts), and a complete 460 (with AC brackets & pulley) just fell
into my hands the other day, but I must work out a configuration that will
withstand lots of HP and mega torque before I even think about beginning
construction of my dream truck.

BTW:) I wouldn't have ever considered the danger of a flywheel & pressure
plate scattering at high RPM's until today when I seen the heat cracks after
8,000 miles of (aggressive) use.


Danger





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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:35:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: shane san miguel
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Flywheel and Pressure Plate Heat Cracks

- --- Danger wrote:
> First of all, I apologize for the long post
> (induced by Anheuser Busch),

Beer is good. very good.

> I'm also rather curious as to where the weak
> point in the drive train

> 1) my first 390 4bbl engine rebuild
Depends on miles but it should be good.

> 2) T-18 which was rebuilt by a reputable local shop
No problems at all here, the T-18 is STOUT.

> 3) solid non-greasable U-joints
No problems here either. The non-zerked joints are
supposed to be much stronger because they aren't
hollow.

> 4) driveline or splines
I went to thicker wall tubing on my driveshaft. Worse
than a thinwall as far as rotating mass/inertia is
concerned but much stronger.

> 5) 3.55 (Powerloc Posi?) dif which was recently
> rebuilt
What kind of rear end do you have? If it's a 9" then
you're still probably ok but I would agree with you
that this is the weak link in your combination.
Ever consider a locker or a Dana? The drag race crowd
(myself included) seems to prefer the 9" but I always
read in the 4X4 mags that they seem to prefer the
Dana.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.51 87

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 21:41:38 EDT
From: WJeff43 AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

A friend of mine recommended Advantage auto parts for long blocks. He bought
one there and has gotten good service out of it. He said the ones from
AutoZone are assembled in Mexico, whereas the ones from Advantage are
assembled in America. I'm getting ready to put a long-block in my 79 F100.....


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