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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #181
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perf-list-digest Thursday, July 22 1999 Volume 02 : Number 181



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 21:02:57 -0400
FTE Perf - Auto-engine
FTE Perf - power problem
Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine
RE: FTE Perf - Auto-engine
Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine
Re: FTE Perf - Leaning out or perf. carb. tuning (update)
FTE Perf - tachometer installation
Re: FTE Perf - tachometer installation

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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 09:00:04 -0500
From: NRA
Subject: FTE Perf - Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 21:02:57 -0400

Depending upon the config of the carb mount on the intake, verify that
it matches the carb base. On Edelbrock intakes, you have to use a plate
between the intake surface and a Holley because the right and left sides
of the intake rise are cut in and don't match the carb bottom. A gasket
will work for a little while, but will eventually begin to leak big
time.

Neal
Austin, TX
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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 17:49:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

Autozone engines, long blocks, anyone ever purchased one and/or had a
problem with them? Reason I'm asking, is because I bought one from
Autozone about 10 months back, and its burned oil since a got it...


-Justin Farcas --
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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 17:10:15 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE Perf - power problem

when I accelerate from a dead stop the truck has gobs of power
just not on the hills between 3rd and 4th between 2nd and third I have to
rev it some but there still is power
I have 3.55 gears with 33's and a 351W taht is not to high of a gear
I know about offroading, I aint rockcrawling just muddiong and such.

Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
33" BFG MT's.
Little Rock,Ar





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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 17:24:09 -0500
From: a&b
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

I put a 350 in a guy's ch**y a fews years back and a bunch of the rocker
studs worked loose within 500-1000 miles. and this wasn't a race car- just a
grocery getter. the oil pressure went to hell by 1500 miles. so low it
wouldn't keep the lifters up. (this was before the viagra additive ). I've
never fooled with another one. it wasn't much cheeper than if i would've
taken the original one to a machine shop, but the guy was in a hurry.

Justin Farcas wrote:

> Autozone engines, long blocks, anyone ever purchased one and/or had a
> problem with them? Reason I'm asking, is because I bought one from
> Autozone about 10 months back, and its burned oil since a got it...
>
>
> -Justin Farcas --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
__o
_`\ _>
(*) (*)


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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 18:10:06 -0500
From: Mike Morton
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

A friend of mine bought one of theirs a couple of years ago and had the same
problem. They replaced the engine after minor haggling. The only thing
you're out the cost of having it changed or the labor if you do it yourself.
His second motor did the same thing so he got them to just take the second
one back and they reimbursed him the cost of the motor. He finally went to
the boneyard and bought a core motor and rebuilt it.
Mike
55 F100/460

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin Farcas [SMTP:ae571 seorf.ohiou.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 4:49 PM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Perf - Auto-engine
>
> Autozone engines, long blocks, anyone ever purchased one and/or had a
> problem with them? Reason I'm asking, is because I bought one from
> Autozone about 10 months back, and its burned oil since a got it...
>
>
> -Justin Farcas --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 18:38:20 -0700
From: George Miller
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Auto-engine

Mike Morton wrote:
>
> A friend of mine bought one of theirs a couple of years ago and had the same
> problem. They replaced the engine after minor haggling. The only thing
> you're out the cost of having it changed or the labor if you do it yourself.
> His second motor did the same thing so he got them to just take the second
> one back and they reimbursed him the cost of the motor. He finally went to
> the boneyard and bought a core motor and rebuilt it.
> Mike
> 55 F100/460

I've heard and read lots of horror stories about the mass produced
aftermarket engines. Considering the price, it's doubtful that there's
much difference in skill levels/components between one of their
'assemblers' and a chain fast food 'cook'. If money and time are
primary considerations, the factory crate stuff has a good rep. If time
isn't the major factor, rebuilding it yourself is the way to go. Even a
first time builder can control the tolerances and components.

George Miller
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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 21:59:34 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Leaning out or perf. carb. tuning (update)

Thanks to all who suggested the vaccum leak. After a good nights sleep and
a fresh once over, I noticed the intake gasket around the 1 and 2 cylinders
seemed a little "loose". I took it all a part (man, getting good at this
process), slobbered some high temp. silicone sealant on everything and
re-assembled and let it set up for a day.

I fired it up today and low and behold, vacuum, a whole 18 on the vacuum
guage! Pushed the timing back to around 14BDTC and got a very smooth idle
and kept the 18 on the guage. Then I went inside and changed my shorts ...

But seriously, the vacuum was the trick. BTW, the van hasn't left the
garage yet, but the 20+ year old 300 idles smoother, revs faster and sounds
much cooler with the Edlebrock 4bbl and Clifford intake/headers. Of
course, when I pick up the new drive shaft and actually leave the driveway
will be the true seat-of-the-pants meter test.

Thanks to all,
John

(PS. I'm documenting my efforts so hopefully if all goes well, I'll have a
tech article to submit with the full project).

At 09:25 AM 7/20/99 -0400, you wrote:
>John writes: >>
>wants to die. If I keep pumping the pedal, the engine will keep running
>but if I hold the pedal steadily depressed or stop pumping the pedal, the
>engine wants to die.
>
>Either you have jetted it much too lean, or you are "sucking air" (vacuum
leak)
>someplace. You are keeping it running by adding the fuel through the squirt
>nozzels(accelerator pump).
>
>JMHO
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 21:06:14 -0700
From: "Tom Ewing"
Subject: FTE Perf - tachometer installation

I've got a 92Ranger 2.3L and I have a Autogage tach that I'd like to
install.
But, from the instructions that come with the tach, I don't see anything
resembling my trucks ignition. I'm not too familiar with this set up
myself.
It has "coil pack assemblies", two of them. There are 4 spark plug wires
in each coil pack. And there are two spark plugs for each cylinder
with this motor. The instructions with the tachometer state to attach its
green wire to my trucks negative coil post. That's where the problem
begins. There's no way that I can determine a negative coil post.
Do I have a tachometer that won't work on my motor? Or can someone
tell me where to attach that green wire that would ordinarily just be
attached to the traditional coil negative pole--unfortunately I don't have
one.
A traditiona coil that is. And I guess I need to have a special connector
of
some sort? Or do I splice into one of the wires leading to one of the
coil packs. Stumped on this one.
Appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks
Tom
2.3L 19.446
58F100, 429, C-6(runs, but doesn't actually move, yet)

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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 22:13:28 -0700
From: William Street
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - tachometer installation

There is a tach (diagnostic) connector on the driver side. Between the
alternator
and intake runners should be a large wire bundle. There are two connectors
hanging there - one has two yellow wires with green stripes and on has a
single
green wire with a yellow stripe - the single one is the tach connector. I
used this
on my 90 Ranger 2.3 and my tach works fine.

Good luck.

Bill

Tom Ewing wrote:

> I've got a 92Ranger 2.3L and I have a Autogage tach that I'd like to
> install.
> But, from the instructions that come with the tach, I don't see anything
> resembling my trucks ignition. I'm not too familiar with this set up
> myself.
> It has "coil pack assemblies", two of them. There are 4 spark plug wires
> in each coil pack. And there are two spark plugs for each cylinder
> with this motor. The instructions with the tachometer state to attach its
> green wire to my trucks negative coil post. That's where the problem
> begins. There's no way that I can determine a negative coil post.
> Do I have a tachometer that won't work on my motor? Or can someone
> tell me where to attach that green wire that would ordinarily just be
> attached to the traditional coil negative pole--unfortunately I don't have
> one.
> A traditiona coil that is. And I guess I need to have a special connector
> of
> some sort? Or do I splice into one of the wires leading to one of the
> coil packs. Stumped on this one.
> Appreciate any suggestions.
> Thanks
> Tom
> 2.3L 19.446
> 58F100, 429, C-6(runs, but doesn't actually move, yet)
>
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