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Subject: perf-list-digest V2 #159
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perf-list-digest Tuesday, June 29 1999 Volume 02 : Number 159



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - 351W in a RANGER!!!!!!
Re: FTE Perf - 351W in a RANGER!!!!!!
FTE Perf - no distributor spark?
Re: FTE Perf - no distributor spark?
FTE Perf - RE: turbo's - Right List ?

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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:31:26 EDT
From: Zman959095 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - 351W in a RANGER!!!!!!

I have come across a deal, An 89-351W, fuel injected and has everything from
injectors too oil pan, for $200.00 dollars. The motor has come out of a
truck and I was wondering if it is worth it to try and buy the motor, rebuild
it, and then collect the necassary parts to swap the 4.0 in my 93 Ranger with
this motor. I know that I will need a custom made exhaust, motor mounts and
also a tranny, I think! My ranger has a 5spd. manual in it now. If anybody
out their can help out with some more info it would be greatly apprieciated!
Zman959095 aol.com
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 99 19:45:09 PDT
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 351W in a RANGER!!!!!!

check out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/9104/

- -- Don


> From owner-perf-list ford-trucks.com Mon Jun 28 19:41 PDT 1999
> From: Zman959095 AOL.COM
> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:31:26 EDT
> Subject: FTE Perf - 351W in a RANGER!!!!!!
> To: Perf-list ford-trucks.com
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>
> I have come across a deal, An 89-351W, fuel injected and has everything from
> injectors too oil pan, for $200.00 dollars. The motor has come out of a
> truck and I was wondering if it is worth it to try and buy the motor, rebuild
> it, and then collect the necassary parts to swap the 4.0 in my 93 Ranger with
> this motor. I know that I will need a custom made exhaust, motor mounts and
> also a tranny, I think! My ranger has a 5spd. manual in it now. If anybody
> out their can help out with some more info it would be greatly apprieciated!
> Zman959095 aol.com
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 20:24:46 -0700
From: "Tom Ewing"
Subject: FTE Perf - no distributor spark?

I've put on a new Edelbrock 750cfm carb and RPM PERFORMER manifold, plus
I've replaced and somewhat temporarily improved the fuel lines as best
I can. However I removed the distributor to make it easier to install the
intake
manifold and now I can't seem to get any spark? I can't even get the thing
to
backfire. At least I think its lack of spark. I can see fuel in the carb..
I've tried
setting a spark plug on the intake connected to spark plug wire and remotely
stood in front of the truck and tried to see the spark plug firing, but I
don't. Am
I running this test of the ignition improperly? I'll keep checking.The
coil, the
condenser, the spark plug wires are new. The spark plugs are not new in
that I tried using them a bit with the badly leaking previous carb, but they
appear totally clean and I only used them for a matter of minutes as I
recall.
Tom
58F100, 429,C6

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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 20:54:18 -0700
From: George Miller
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - no distributor spark?

Tom Ewing wrote:
>
> I've put on a new Edelbrock 750cfm carb and RPM PERFORMER manifold, plus
> I've replaced and somewhat temporarily improved the fuel lines as best
> I can. However I removed the distributor to make it easier to install the
> intake
> manifold and now I can't seem to get any spark? I can't even get the thing
> to
> backfire. At least I think its lack of spark. I can see fuel in the carb..
> I've tried
> setting a spark plug on the intake connected to spark plug wire and remotely
> stood in front of the truck and tried to see the spark plug firing, but I
> don't. Am
> I running this test of the ignition improperly? I'll keep checking.The
> coil, the
> condenser, the spark plug wires are new. The spark plugs are not new in
> that I tried using them a bit with the badly leaking previous carb, but they
> appear totally clean and I only used them for a matter of minutes as I
> recall.
> Tom
> 58F100, 429,C6

Sounds like you missed getting the dist back in on the right tooth
combination with the cam gear. Pull the plugs, put a socket/ratchet or
breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt. Put your finger over the #1
sparkplug opening. Slowly crank the engine with the socket and watch the
timing marks on the crank pointer. When you feel compression building on
your finger and the timing marks line up, you should be at TDC on #1.
I like to run it around at least once to make sure I'm not 180 degrees
off. Put the timing mark at 5 degrees or so before TDC and button
everything up. It's a good idea to leave the socket on the crank in case
you need to 'jiggle' it to get the dist gear to mesh with the cam gear.
Good luck.

George Miller
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 21:47:19 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: turbo's - Right List ?

Les
The geographical centre of Sydney

Gee! I've never met a geographical center before.

> Has anybody had experience with 'blow thru' turbo charging 351C
> in F100's

No, I have never done a blow through application on a 351C running
propane. I have been around several Race Turbo Engines running Gas though.
So FWIW:

> Should I go for 1 or 2 'snails' (turbos)

On any V type engine two escargot are the way to go as it allows
you to size the shells* for maximum boost and minimum restriction.
* Hot side housing, A/R size.
What max Boost pressure can you expect? Depends on the size of the
snail!

> What max. boost pressure can I expect AND is still be reliable.

Depends on a bunch of things! Are you building the engine for Boost?
Are going to try to boost an existing engine (I'm guessing this is your
choice) if the latter aim for about 7 PSI (you convert it). If your
building a turbo engine then try 20 to 30 PSI.


> Which type of exhaust manifolds or extractors(?) or just find a good
pipe man.

Extractors and they must be Stainless Steel if you want the turbo to
live.

> C6 auto trans modify, change ?

The C6 uses Vacuum to modulate the shifts and sense load. You will need
to be able to vent the Boost or you will blow the Modulator. There is
somebody that makes a device that accommodates this function on a
Boosted engine. Try the major Trans guys and see if they know.

> 9in, 3.20 rear end ?

The 9" should be ok. If the gear ratio is ok now it should be ok with
the turbo.

> Anything I may have overlooked ?

Yup. A whole Bookload! This is not just a bolt em on and go operation.
There is just a ton of stuff that you need to address, and like you
pointed out it is the details that will make or break this project.
You need a pressurized supply of engine oil to the turbos, and you need
a place to drain it back into the sump.
The Extractors must be at least 321 stainless to prevent any carbon
from precipitating out and flaking off of the inside of the tube. Run a
carbon flake (or any other debris) through a turbo and bang, no more
turbo! They must be fabricated by somebody that knows what they are
doing because they must be welded with the correct filler and process.
The turbo must be sized correctly to supply the correct amount of air,
and the Mixer must be sized so that it is capable of handling that
amount of air.
The distributor will need an "Advance Can" that is capable of a boost
retard function or you will need a boost vent in the system.

Pick up a copy of "TURBOCHARGERS" by Hugh ???? Arrrrggg! I have forgotten
his name!

- ---->>So why do it ? - like drilling holes in disc rotors, - cause it's
there !
Is there any better reason for making more power!?

Muel



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