perf-list-digest Tuesday, March 9 1999 Volume 02 : Number 056



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Perf - Cylinder head
FTE Perf - Small engine performance?
Re: FTE Perf - Small engine performance?
FTE Perf - Lowering an F-100
FTE Perf - Throttle Position Sensor on 7.3L IDI Diesel
Re: FTE Perf - Lowering an F-100
FTE Perf - Timing chain
FTE Perf - 400M horsepower.

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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 22:39:05 -0500
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Cylinder head

Bryan Smith wrote:
>
> I'm a teenager and an ameteur at working on cars. I'm replacing the head
> gasket on a 6 cyl. 300 and was told that if I remove the cylinder head
> that it will warp and need to be remachined. Is this true?

Yes and no..

Yes if you yank the head off while it's hot and/or improperly as was
mentioned. Do it cold and slow.

No, usually it was a different problem that caused the gasket
failure/warpage to begin with such as thermostat/radiator/water pump.
Like many other problems it can be related to the wrong effect. I've
seen .015" warped heads removed CAREFULLY; kinda like the wrongful
belief that timing causes dieseling or that batteries will discharge if
stored on concrete. (Germs of truth in both, but not the root cause.)


Make some calls to some machine shops in your area asking about checking
a head for warpage and when you find one that says nothing or $5 let
them do it (maybe 2 opinions?) It only takes 2 minutes with a known
straight edge and a feeler gauge if the surface is clean.

Good luck and welcome to what was my world 20 years ago! :-) Wish I'd
had resources like the 'Net then rather than friends as ignorant as I
was. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are completely clean before
reassembly as it doesn't take but a tiny bump anywhere to have really
bad effects.

FWIW.. Every head we pull off goes to the machine shop. Some come back
with $0.00 charge and some need a valve job in addition to being
surfaced; most just need surfacing. If you can afford the extra $$ I
would really suggest sending it off for CHECKING and if needs work then
make the decision from there based on cost.

Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic
Custer Auto Repair
Wilmington NC
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 20:04:30 PST
From: "Joe Mitchell"
Subject: FTE Perf - Small engine performance?

Hi all,
I know most of you have V8's and V6's, but I was looking for some
performance suggestions for a 91 Ranger with a 2.3L 4 banger (hell, its
STILL better than a Chevy!). I've already added a K&N air filter, K&N
oil filter, and a dual flowmaster set-up, but I'm looking for some other
additions for to build more horses. I'm not rich, so I'd like to keep
them some-what affordable. I've considered a performance chip, but I'm
not sure which brand to get. Any suggestions, for either a chip, or for
performance in general? Thanx in advance.....
- --
Joe
- --
I'd push a Ford before I drove a Chevy, but I don't need to.


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 00:10:41 -0500
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Small engine performance?

Joe Mitchell wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I know most of you have V8's and V6's, but I was looking for some
> performance suggestions for a 91 Ranger with a 2.3L 4 banger (hell, its
> STILL better than a Chevy!).

Amen on that.. never seen a punctured rocker on a 2.3 unlike the GM
crap. Dual Webers do a lot on the old ones where it's legal.

I've already added a K&N air filter, K&N
> oil filter, and a dual flowmaster set-up, but I'm looking for some other
> additions for to build more horses. I'm not rich, so I'd like to keep
> them some-what affordable. I've considered a performance chip, but I'm
> not sure which brand to get. Any suggestions, for either a chip, or for
> performance in general? Thanx in advance.....


Just my suggestions, but bigger throttle body and look at what 'racer
walsh' has to offer for cams and goodies.
>

> I'd push a Ford before I drove a Chevy, but I don't need to.

I will, have and needed to.. but they all break down from time to time..

TT
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Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 15:00:38 -0500
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
Subject: FTE Perf - Lowering an F-100

I have just read all the grief you guys gave the person who ask about lowerig a
Chevy. Now answer my question. What's the best way to lower a 1973 F-100 about 2-4
inches? Remember, I'm on a budget.

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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 18:59:04 EST
From: WoodStck45 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - Throttle Position Sensor on 7.3L IDI Diesel

Guys

We have a 1994 Ford F-250 ,7.3L IDI non-turbo diesel, H.D., E40D
(junk)(rebuilt). My dad got in it to drive it this morning and it was like it
had no power what so ever. It was almost like it lost all its torque
overnight. When you put the truck in gear and drive it, it will never rev
over 2300 rpm's no matter how far you push the pedal down. But, if you push
the pedal to the floor it will stick wide open even after you left off,
therefore you have to shut the truck off going down the road and release it
under the hood. It will only rev to its governed engine rpm (i think it is
3800 but depends on the load) if it is locked in first or if it is in neutral.
I thought it might be the fuel filter clogged up, but we just changed it. So
i popped open the EEC and put the truck on the computer here at home and code
"23" came up and translates into "Throttle Position Sensor". It kinda makes
sense i guess. Anyways (something else out of the ordinary) when the truck is
cold and it is on "high idle" it makes more of a knocking sound when you drive
it. Then after it warms up to a certain temp. it goes to normal idle (If you
drive a Ford Diesel you will know exactly what i am talking about). Now since
the truck acts like it has no power the engine makes the same sound at normal
idle (knocking) as is does at high idle. I know there is nothing wrong with
the engine mechanically because i have heard all these sounds before. Do
think maybe the throttle position sensor possibly being bad could cause the
"knock" at normal idle? Do you guys know what it looks like, where its at,
or how much a new one costs? I thought maybe it is where i release the
throttle when it sticks, but there are so many different parts there i don't
know which one it is. Any comments, answers, or suggestions will be
appreciated.

Thanks alot
Paul
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 19:45:12 -0600
From: "James Lowry"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Lowering an F-100

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 2:07 PM
Subject: FTE Perf - Lowering an F-100


>I have just read all the grief you guys gave the person who ask about
lowerig a
>Chevy. Now answer my question. What's the best way to lower a 1973 F-100
about 2-4
>inches? Remember, I'm on a budget.
>
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>
Howdy, folks....
About the only idea I can give you to help in your quest for lowering one
of the old timers is to grab an issue of Super Ford magazine off of the
shelf somewhere and start reading. It has quite a bit of info in it on about
all aspects of ford stuff and at the end is John Vermeersch's column. He
knows everything there is to know about Ford mods.
You should find a reputable outfit in the mag somewhere that deals in
suspension changes that can steer you in the right direction labor and parts
wise. Sucess!



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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 14:25:03 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Timing chain

Scott writes: >>I am not an expert on these engines, but can't this also be
caused by a timing chain jumping a tooth on the cam shaft timing gear

Yes, but the engine performance would suffer much greater because the valves are
not in the proper time with the pistons, whereas when the dist is off by a
notch, it can be brought back into speck with rotation (most of the time), and
the valves and pistons are still in time with each other.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 11:21:52 -0700
From: Steve Tymchyshyn
Subject: FTE Perf - 400M horsepower.

A while back I asked the group for some help for choosing a perfromance cam
kit, 4v intake manifold, and 4v carburator, and any other suggestions they
had for re-building my 400.

Instead, everyone set up Pro and Con camps concerning the M block.

I have chosen this engine, and am not interested in hearing wether or not it
is the right choice.

Therefore, to all the M block devotees, drop me a line about your success
stories, and identify the parts you used.

I am fairly certain that I am going to go with the Edelbrock performer
manifold, but then again I am wobbling on the cam, so I don't want to make
this decision before I decide on the cam.

It's my opinion that you have to start with the "guts" first, to get the
power I want (~350hp, with 380-400lbs of torque at 4500rpm). She'll
probably red-line at 5000rpm. I've heard that x-treme energy makes KILLER
cam.

Before, I joined this list I thought I had a handle on things, but all you M
block bashers have distracted me, so again if you have nothing nice to say
about the M blocks............

I have also heard rumors about an article in the september 98 issue of Hot
Rod magazine, that had a 400 producing some statistics to drool over.
Unfortunately, I can't track this article down. If anyone has a copy of it,
could you scan it in and send it to me. Or if you know where I might find
it on the net, send me the address.



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