perf-list-digest Friday, January 29 1999 Volume 02 : Number 022



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Carb spacer
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
Re: FTE Perf - Spacers
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
Re: FTE Perf - Spacers
FTE Perf - Oh yeah
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
FTE Perf - pistons
RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
Re: FTE Perf - pistons
Re: FTE Perf - Carb spacer
RE: FTE Perf - Spacers
Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
Re: FTE Perf - pistons
Re: FTE Perf - Spacers

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:28:21 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Carb spacer

William Hart writes: >> This spacer is designed to have the coolant passed
through it, but this routing will cause my heater hoses to crimp.

Apparently you have the aluminum spacer from the '64-'67 era 390 pass car.
Can't you simply bypass the water portion with your heater hoses??? There is no
passage way between the water portion and the intake portion. You could even
saw/file the nipples off where the water normally passed through, and just leave
them open or plug them with something laying around in your shop.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:15:50 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

>what carb pattern?

DOH! I always forget something don't I ? Its a standard Ford pattern, all
4 the same size and everything. Holley 600 is what the carb going on is...



i would think a 4 hole spacer, especially a
>plastic/phenolic one would be good. an aluminum would be fine too, but the
>plastic or phenolic does insulate the carb from some heat.
>
Do I want to isolate it from the heat ? I like my choke to open in the
winter ... I'm funny about things like that ....

>there may not really be a need for the spacer at all. is it really
>necessary? you may notice a small increase on the top end with an open
>style, and maybe a small increase in mileage (just guessing) with the 4
>hole, but no spacer at all compared to a 4 hole may not make a moticeable
>difference - depends on the engine.
>

Hmmm...hadn't really considered taking the plate out all together ... I'm
looking for low end torque, so it would be easier for the signal to set up
without one ... interesting, what other problems might i encounter by
bolting it directly on. I don't remember for sure, but I'm thinkin the
manifold even has the 4hole style, so an open style spacer would probably
just muck the flow up. The motor is a 390 that I'm workin on rebuilding
(waiting for the machinist right now), its gonna start with a melling cam
that's about equivalent of the 272 crane supposedly, probably about 9.6:1
compression or so in the end. Dunno what other info you need to determine
this exactly, but the goal is a nice daily driver with a butt load of low
end torque. Oh yeah its a 4x4, don't tow or haul or even offroad much,
just play in the snow ...



Azie mentioned I didn't have to run the heater hoses through it, and that
is quite true, I'm not running them now as a matter of fact, but I just
wanted to clean up the engine and have it look almost as good and clean as
it runs. As for plugging it with "something laying around the shop" I
don't really have that big of a shop, just a 2 stall garage and basic hand
tools (no air tools here) ... its a rented house for the next year,then the
owners are movin back, so I haven't started getting shop supplies together
.... And I don't think that MG they left at the front of the garage will
fit in those holes :)



>the coolant passages thru the spacer sound good to me for something! a
>good place to hide some nitrous lnes!!! got me thinking now... if i could
>make one big enough for a dominater with big 5/8 heater lines running the
>nitrous into the plate. ooh, i like it!!
>
:)
good luck



Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:53:52 -0500
From: Bryan G Sheffler
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Spacers

Hi all. I'm new to the perf-list. I heard about this list form the
Galaxie list. I understand that there is a wealth of knowledge here and
that "these guys really get in depth about the motors in our cars" as I
believe someone put. This will be helpful when I put the 427 HR motor
together for my '64 Galaxie.
I see there is some talk about carb spacers. I'd like to put my two
cents worth in based on experience. Unless you are going to run over
5000 RPM all day long, forget about the open hole spacers. No matter
what the magazines say about power improvement, they are not talking
about real world driving. A four hole spacer is the way to go if you
want to boost low and midrange power. I even have one on a Holley
Single plane Street Dominator, and it really makes a big difference when
just driving around!!! A four hole spacer gives the booster in the carb
a stronger signal to meeter with. It also keeps the air/fuel velocity up
at low RPM. An open pacer adds volume to the plenum, just what you want
at high RPM, but at low RPM, they weaken the signal that the booster
see's. Another words, it is harder for your carb to act right at low
and cruising RPM's Spacers help keep some of the heat that is generated
by the engine from being passed onto the carb by the way of the intake
manifold. Unless you drive solely in the winter, spacers can be very
useful. The only reason that Ford ran the heater hose through the
aluminum spacer is for cold start drive ability and that at just the
right ambient air temperature, with steady state driving, there is a
possibility that the throttle blades could ice up in the carb. I've
never personally experienced this. There are about four kinds of
material that spaces are made of. I'll list them in order of the best
for heat dissipation (most insulating) first. WOOD, PHENOLIC RESIN,
PLASTIC and finally ALUMINUM. Wood is the best, but it soaks up gas and
I've never really used them. I guess that some racers (circle track?) use
them. The Phenolic or plastic are a good choice for insulating the carb
from the intake manifold heat. Aluminum is not as good as the others,
but then they are alterable. You can machine them if you want.
Sorry about the long post.

Bryan

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:05:09 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

We used to just pull those off and replace them with an epoxy glass
composite spacer from a performance shop. At the time it was preferable to
get a taller one if it fit under the hood with the air cleaner. The extra
height would give you a little better throttle response. It was one step
below installing a hi-rise aluminum intake manifold.

If you bolt it right to the manifold you will boil the float chamber from
heat conducting off the manifold.

Personally I would think a performance spacer and good gaskets would work
very well. You can use an aluminum spacer if it has a small contact area
between the carb and manifold. In other words, lots of holes or slots so the
amount of metal contact is reduced to keep the thermal conductivity through
the metal as low as possible. Epoxy glass is the best thermal insulator that
is also dimensionally stable through varying temperature ranges and has good
chemical resistance.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:William S Hart [SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
> Sent:Wednesday, January 27, 1999 3:39 PM
> To:perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE Perf - Spacers
>
> Sleddog, et. al.
>
> Awhile back in the discussion of horsepower/dollar there was
> mention of
> the swirl torque carb spacers.
>
> Here's the dilemma ... I've got a 390 intake manifold from a Galaxie,
> along
> with the carb spacer for the same car. This spacer is designed to have
> the
> coolant passed through it, but this routing will cause my heater hoses to
> crimp.
>
> So I'm looking to replace the factory spacer to clean things up (don't
> like
> havin unused ports layin around) and I'm looking for suggestions. I don't
> live at high altitutes, but do have major temperature swings ( -30s in
> winter and 100's in the summer, also have seen 30degree swings in the
> matter of a couple hours).
>
> Any thoughts you guys have would be helpful,
>
>
> Thanks,
> wish
> 73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
> 96 Mustang GT
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:07:01 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Spacers

>material that spaces are made of. I'll list them in order of the best
>for heat dissipation (most insulating) first. WOOD, PHENOLIC RESIN,
>PLASTIC and finally ALUMINUM. Wood is the best, but it soaks up gas and
>I've never really used them. I guess that some racers (circle track?) use
>them. The Phenolic or plastic are a good choice for insulating the carb
>from the intake manifold heat. Aluminum is not as good as the others,
>but then they are alterable. You can machine them if you want.

Do I want my carb insulated? I know its a good thing for summer driving
and racing and all that, but I've never boiled the gas in the carb (even
when it over heats), and I do need to drive it in the winter. Actually for
now that's the truck's main job is driving in the winter, the newer stang
gets to hibernate. I can build a wood one, no problems there (those tools
are around), but machining an aluminum one is not really a viable option
for me, so I'll probably end up buying one. I want low end torque, that's
the goal, just wnated everybody's recommendations ... so what would you
recommend ?


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:07:36 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE Perf - Oh yeah

>Hi all. I'm new to the perf-list. I heard about this list form the
>Galaxie list. I understand that there is a wealth of knowledge here and
>that "these guys really get in depth about the motors in our cars" as I
>believe someone put. This will be helpful when I put the 427 HR motor
>together for my '64 Galaxie.

Wow, sounds like a great project :) Welcome to the list, and good luck :)




Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:27:59 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

i think that the choke would work fine, but i have never used a choke, so i
am not sure, if you use a plastic or phenolic style.

for low end, a 4 hole or no spacer should work fine. but i think actually
using the plate with the heater hoses attatched sounds good too. there
must be a way to run the heater hoses so they don't kink. it will keep the
carb at a constant temperature winter or summer.

otherwise, a standard 4hole holley pattern 1 or 2" spacer will be fine. 1"
may be better.

sleddog

- ----------
From: William S Hart[SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 9:15 AM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

>what carb pattern?

DOH! I always forget something don't I ? Its a standard Ford pattern, all
4 the same size and everything. Holley 600 is what the carb going on is...



i would think a 4 hole spacer, especially a
>plastic/phenolic one would be good. an aluminum would be fine too, but
the
>plastic or phenolic does insulate the carb from some heat.
>
Do I want to isolate it from the heat ? I like my choke to open in the
winter ... I'm funny about things like that ....



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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:01:42 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

don't go wood, it soak up gas and eventually leaks. racers use em, but
they are replaced often. but they are so far the best insulator for a
carb.

sleddog

- ----------
From: William S Hart[SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 12:07 PM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Spacers

. I can build a wood one, no problems there (those tools
are around), but machining an aluminum one is not really a viable option
for me, so I'll probably end up buying one. I want low end torque, that's
the goal, just wnated everybody's recommendations ... so what would you
recommend ?


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT






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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:54:49 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

sleddog wrote:
> don't go wood, it soak up gas and eventually leaks. racers use em, but
> they are replaced often. but they are so far the best insulator for a
> carb.
>
Wood is the best huh? What type? Do "racers" use a good hard wood like
cherry or do they prefer the more common wood like pine or cedar?

Maybe a nice teak or birds eye maple will work better on those high
performance engines. :)

Scott
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:14:37 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

i don't know. I imagine that the softer and more porous (sp?) wood
insulates better as it is the air spaces that actually insulate. but maybe
those types of wood don't last as long. have seen many made from good
quality plywood or such also. i don't use wood.

my setup to this point is an aluminum spacer (easy to match to intake) and
a aluminum heat shield that actually covers almost the whole intake, with
gaskets between each part.

my buddy on his pull truck runs a sheild (smaller) and a phenolic spacer
and the carb is still cool after a pull. mine OTOH is getting pretty hot.
i am going phenolic when i put my new dominater on.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Giddens, Scott[SMTP:sgiddens ball.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 1:54 PM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

Wood is the best huh? What type? Do "racers" use a good hard wood like
cherry or do they prefer the more common wood like pine or cedar?

Maybe a nice teak or birds eye maple will work better on those high
performance engines. :)

Scott




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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:20:32 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

>i think that the choke would work fine, but i have never used a choke, so i
>am not sure, if you use a plastic or phenolic style.
>
>for low end, a 4 hole or no spacer should work fine. but i think actually
>using the plate with the heater hoses attatched sounds good too. there
>must be a way to run the heater hoses so they don't kink. it will keep the
>carb at a constant temperature winter or summer.
>
That is true, and I could probably come up with something, maybe some one
knows of something, the problem is that the outlet on the back is either
too close or too far from the heater core. If it were farther away I could
run a longer hose to get rid of the kinking, or if it were closer it would
be a straigher shot, but as it is its just the wrong spot. I suppose I
might be able to use an elbow, that would probably do the trick ... a
couple 45's would be great ... does anyone know what the cars actually used
? I got the manifold and spacer w/carb, but there was no hose hanging off
the back ...

>otherwise, a standard 4hole holley pattern 1 or 2" spacer will be fine. 1"
>may be better.

Cool, if I can't figure out the plumbing, I'll go with the 1" probably
phenolic or whatever ...


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:44:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

No, I don't have a compression tester. Is there any other way I can test?
>
> Some one correct me if i am wrong, but blue is oil, black is rich fuel, and
> white is water.
>
> so, since it is giving a little blue smoke i would say that is where your
> oil is going. must do a compresion test to see if the rings are bad or the
> vlave seals.
>
> do you have a compression tester?
>
> sleddog
>
> ----------
> From: Justin Farcas[SMTP:ae571 seorf.ohiou.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 3:28 PM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....
>
> Also, with my exhaust, this is what I've noticed:
> When I rev it, it's black smoke, then as the smoke goes further into the
> air, it turns whitish/blue color. If I hold it at a constant rpm, there
> is no smoke at all, when I let off the gas, there is a little whitish blue
> smoke that puffs out. Sounds kinda like some intake problem, but then
> again, what do I know?
>
> Thanks AGAIN...
> Justin Farcas
>
>
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>


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:45:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

Well, yeah I do have those. I think the pCV might be hooked up wrong or
something.
>
> I thought you said you had a PCV valve? PCV valves and an air pumps are
> emmission controls.
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>


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:51:20 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE Perf - pistons

>From: "ben"
>Subject: FTE Perf - pistons
>
>Is it possible to use 351C pistons in a 71 400M?
>And are there any oversize pistons available
>for a '71 400M? Because I want to build it up,
>but if there is no way to get some good pistons
>in it, I'm pretty much out of luck. I was thinking of
>re-ringing it but I don't know how long it will
>last with the 351C 4v heads I plan on using.
>Any info, ideas, thoughts??

Yo Ben:

The only aftermarket pistons available for the 400 engine (standard or
overbore) are low compression dished types. None of the major
manufacturers makes a replacement for the 1971 flat tops. Ford obsoleted
that piston back in 1976 or so. You could get custom pistons from Badger
or Ross or one of the other racing outfits, but you'd be looking at major
bucks ($600+).

You can use 351C pistons in the 400 because the compression height (pin CL
to piston top dimension) of 400 pistons and 351C pistons is compatible.
The difference between the two pistons is the wrist pin diameter. The 351C
piston uses a smaller wrist pin, so you have to get the 400 rods bushed on
the small end to fit the 351C wrist pins. That's the only modification
required to use 351C pistons in a 400.

Once you decide to go w/ 351C pistons, the sky's the limit. There are at
least 20 different production pistons for the 351C, including forged,
hypereutectic, and plain old cheap cast jobs. You can get a variety of
ring configurations and almost any compression ratio you want.

As for the 351C 4V heads, I think they are not a good match for the
M-block. The 4V head ports don't get into a good rate of flow until you
hit 4K rpm minimum, and w/ the M-block's relatively long rods and long
stroke, the stock bottom end won't support the higher rpms necessary to
provide a good wide powerband. With just a little clean up, the 2V head
ports are plenty big enough to support good power all the way up to 5.5-6K
rpms, which is about where the M-block redlines anyway.

IMHO, unless you're planning a lot of specialized and expensive machine
work and you have a very specialized application, I wouldn't recommend the
351C 4V heads on an M-block. BTW, the original 1971 heads are real nice
heads anyway (unless they're broken).

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:22:44 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

nope, a compression tester is a necessity. although i used to test mini bike engines using the "thumb method".

sleddog

- ----------
From: Justin Farcas[SMTP:ae571 seorf.ohiou.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 11:44 AM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

No, I don't have a compression tester. Is there any other way I can test?
>


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:06:48 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

Thanks for your message at 05:22 PM 1/28/99 -0500, Sleddog. Your message was:
>nope, a compression tester is a necessity. although i used to test mini
bike engines using the "thumb method".
>
>
While holding the plug wire with the other hand, right? :-)
Dennis L. Pearson

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:37:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

Doh!!
Well, looks like I'll have to spend some cash. actually, I'm thinking of
selling the beast. Know anyone that would be interested in a truck that
could be described as "Bigfoot"?
>
> Thanks for your message at 05:22 PM 1/28/99 -0500, Sleddog. Your message was:
> >nope, a compression tester is a necessity. although i used to test mini
> bike engines using the "thumb method".
> >
> >
> While holding the plug wire with the other hand, right? :-)
> Dennis L. Pearson
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:45:59 -0800
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - pistons

At 08:58 PM 1/27/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Is it possible to use 351C pistons in a 71 400M? And are there any oversize
>pistons available for a '71 400M? Because I want to build it up, but if
>there is no way to get some good pistons in it, I'm pretty much out of
>luck. I was thinking of re-ringing it but I don't know how long it will
>last with the 351C 4v heads I plan on using. Any info, ideas, thoughts??
>

You can use the 351C pistons on a 400 rod *IF* you get the 400 rod
bushed to the 351C pin diameter.
If you are planning on using 4BBL heads, you'll have no torque or HP
under 4000 rpm, been there, done that, got the T-shirt....... not a good
truck engine combo.
The 2BBL heads flow well enough for street use to make plenty of
HP and Torque where you'll need it.

Steve & the Rockette



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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:00:57 -0800
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Carb spacer

At 08:28 AM 1/28/99 -0500, you wrote:
>William Hart writes: >> This spacer is designed to have the coolant passed
>through it, but this routing will cause my heater hoses to crimp.
>
>Apparently you have the aluminum spacer from the '64-'67 era 390 pass car.

You forgot to mention the '63 Mercury's with the 390, I had one that had
this spacer. I'd bypass it in the summer, and hook it back up in the winter.
Just as a "by the way", it was an ex-police chief car, very fast for it's
time,
I drove it for a couple years, then one day out in Eastern Washington, ran it
up 'til I couldn't see the speedo needle, the crank broke in the second main.
I used SWMBO's Uncle Bob's shop truck ('84 F150 Turboed 300ci 6) to drag
it back home. Found all sorts of good things in the engine, like forged
pistons
LeMans rods, windage tray, crank wiper, adjustable rockers, and big valves.
It's no wonder it'd push that aerodynamically disadvantaged body through
the air with little, if any, strain........

Steve & the Rockette



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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:46:29 -0800
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Spacers

At 11:54 AM 1/28/99 -0700, you wrote:
> sleddog wrote:
>> don't go wood, it soak up gas and eventually leaks. racers use em, but
>> they are replaced often. but they are so far the best insulator for a
>> carb.
>>
>Wood is the best huh? What type? Do "racers" use a good hard wood like
>cherry or do they prefer the more common wood like pine or cedar?

I used to make these spacers fo a circle track racer buddy, I used
3/4" oak....

>Maybe a nice teak or birds eye maple will work better on those high
>performance engines. :)

Hmmmm, never thought of that.....

Steve & the Rockette


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 99 21:00:43 PST
From: "Doug Ridder"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

What is it again?

- ----------
>
> Doh!!
> Well, looks like I'll have to spend some cash. actually, I'm thinking =
of
> selling the beast. Know anyone that would be interested in a truck that
> could be described as "Bigfoot"?
> >
> > Thanks for your message at 05:22 PM 1/28/99 -0500, Sleddog. Your mess=
age
> was:
> > >nope, a compression tester is a necessity. although i used to test =
mini
> > bike engines using the "thumb method".
> > >
> > >
> > While holding the plug wire with the other hand, right? :-)
> > Dennis L. Pearson
> >
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
> > =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/f=
aq.html
> >
>
>
> --
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
.html


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:16:33 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

that was for checking spark ;)
sleddog

- ----------
From: Dennis Pearson[SMTP:dpearson ctc.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 7:06 PM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

Thanks for your message at 05:22 PM 1/28/99 -0500, Sleddog. Your message was:
>nope, a compression tester is a necessity. although i used to test mini
bike engines using the "thumb method".
>
>
While holding the plug wire with the other hand, right? :-)
Dennis L. Pearson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:21:01 -0500
From: Bryan G Sheffler
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 460 Probs....

I had something interesting happen on a Crown Vic I had once. I thought
that coolant was getting into my oil. The car ran excellent and no white
smoke out the tail pipe. I would change the oil and it was fine for a
while and then the dip stick would look like the oil was mixed with water
again. It turned out to be the breather for the PCV valve. It had
soaked up water from somewhere and sucking it into the engine. I changed
the breather and never had a another problem. Funny, eh?

Bryan

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:30:34 -0500
From: Bryan G Sheffler
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - pistons

Ben,
There is another cylinder head alternative to the 2V or 4V heads.
The Australian Cleveland head has the 2V ports and valves with the 4V
combustion chamber. The 4V combustion chamber (closed chamber) is much
better and less prone to detonation unlike the standard 2V heads (open
chamber). As was said earlier, the 4V heads are way too big for a street
driven motor, but then the almost 50 extra cubes in the 400 might make
them more streetable. Stick with the smaller 2V ports, it will give you
a much more responsive motor. Hot Rod mag did a build up of a 400 a few
months ago. It was a pretty good article. And remember, just say no to
the 351-M.

Bryan

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:59:00 -0500
From: Bryan G Sheffler
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Spacers

Wish,
If you do most of your driving in the winter with the Truck the
factory Ford aluminum spacer with the nipples in it are the best for
winter driving. They allow you to hook up the heater hose to the carb
spacer. This will allow a more homogeneous mixture in the winter. I
only mentioned wood because it is the best insulator, but it does soak up
gas quickly and needs to be changed after. Not good for the street!!!!!!
Phenolic spacers work pretty good on the street, I tend to like the ones....


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