perf-list-digest Tuesday, May 11 1999 Volume 02 : Number 112



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
FTE Perf - Meeting Place
FTE Perf - Flywheel
RE: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
Re: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
FTE Perf - RE: Ranger V8 Swap

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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 08:10:41 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?

>Onward,
>Does anyone know if putting a high-flow cat on a 4.0 explorer will improve
>the sound? What about headers?

I don't see how it couldn't, though "improve" is subjective. Some like the
sound of the V6, others will laugh at you, so just be aware of it. A good
muffler should help things out too ..


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:24:14 EDT
From: FLR150 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Perf - Meeting Place

List members,
I wanted to put this notice out one more time for the Atlanta, GA area
members who will be going up to Pigeon Forge. Ken and myself are going to be
meeting around 9:00 am on Wednesday for a good pre-trip breakfast and we
should be on the road no later than 10:00 am. I want to know if anyone is
also going from this area and would like to meet up with us and make the trip
as a group? If so please Email me off list, and I will fill you in on the
sketchy details.
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside
and Ford Page (Page 1)

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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:52:13 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Flywheel

JumpinFord wrotes: >>Is there a difference in balance?

No. Both are Zero balanced ( no weights - no drilling).
Either starter will work, but be sure you use the sheetmetal spacer off the
460.. I forget why, but it matters.

About the other things I don't know, but I would check that "Howl" out
thouroughly before I did the swap. What speeds does it howl most noticeably.
Does it matter if you are in D or 2??? I'd try this and if the "Howl" remaimned
the same, then I'd look elsewhere.

2 more days to Pidgeon Forge.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.



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Date: Fri, 10 May 1996 07:11:08 -0600
From: "James Draughn"
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?

I don't know exactly what you mean by reverbrating in the cabin, but my
father has a van with a 460 in it and it has a small exuast leak and when
you are sitting there idling with it in gear it has a very low and loud
rumble. Dynamat wouldint help it hardly at all because the sound just soaks
in threw the windows and every nook and cranny. It would be like putting in
a exremely loud sub in your car then putting in dynamat to dampen the sound.
It wouldint help dampen the actually sound, just the rattling and squeaking
as the panels in the car are vibrated by the sound, or else car audio
enthusiats wouldint use dynamat. So if I where you I would defintly go with
queiting the exaust system it selfself I think i would would check and see
if there is an exaust leak. There is some other stuff that you can buy that
might do better then dynamat but would be more to your liking. I don't know
the name of the stuff or where to get it. It's a special mat with lead
inbetween two layers which will totally cut off anysound trying to pass
through it. While dynamat will try to absorb sound which in turn makes it
quiteter, this stuff does kinda the same thing, it absorbs it but it also
blocks it. Kinda like they make you wear lead vests when getting x-rays. I
would use this special mat on the floor of your cabin, and if you want to go
all out then get dynamat for the panels and doors and such. you would also
love how much quieter your car rides going down the road. Roll up your
windows and you hardly know your in a car. Hope this helps Good luck.

>Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
>
>I'm still deciding on if I should install the venturie or if I should try
>and put Dynamat in the trunk area instead. I'd like to try and keep the
>flow as unrestricted as possible but I'm not sure if the Dynamat will
dampen
>the noise enough. I don't want to completely silence the muffler! Boy,
I'm
>asking to it all, good performance, perfect sound, hehehehe.
>

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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:07:29 EDT
From: FLR150 AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?

In a message dated 5/10/99 9:02:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, myph enol.com
writes:


in threw the windows and every nook and cranny. It would be like putting in
an extremely loud sub in your car then putting in Dynamat to dampen the
sound.
It wouldn't help dampen the actually sound, just the rattling and squeaking
as the panels in the car are vibrated by the sound, or else car audio
enthusiast wouldn't use Dynamat. >>

James,
As an MECP certified installer I can tell you that you are WRONG about
Dynamat. Dynamat or any other type of sound deadening material keeps outside
noise out by changing the mass or sound properties of the material its
attached to. I have personally put the asphalt based material in several
vehicles, having run a decibel meter in the vehicle before and after the
install. In the instance of a Ch*tty Blazer, the "noise floor" (or
starting/stock) level was in the neighborhood of 12-14 dB. After installing
NoiseKill, the inside road noise dropped to 8-9 dB. That's a 4-5 dB decrease
in noise from the road. That alone can make a TREMENDOUS difference in the
talking and stock radio levels. To coin an old phrase, 3 dB decrease in noise
will make your stereo sound 2x as loud. If this material can do that for a
stereo, it should make the exhaust tone bearable.
Now on the usage of whichever product you choose, of course follow the
manufacturers directions, but on the specific noise problem being talked
about, I believe that this is mostly caused by what is called "Transfer
Function". Basically what this means is that the vehicle design is amplifying
the sound (noise) by just its basic design and sound flow characteristics.
You may have to start out dampening just the area over the offending exhaust,
drive it with someone back there listening, the go back and either layer more
of the mat (the spray in might also be a better method) spreading away from
the original area. This is a time consuming process but it will get the noise
calmed down and not a whole heck of a lot of weight to the vehicle. I'm not
wanting to piss anyone off, but I had been skipping over this thread until I
saw a misinformation going on.
I hope I've helped,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside
and Ford Page (Page 1)

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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:08:25 CDT
From: "PitStop Performance"
Subject: FTE Perf - RE: Ranger V8 Swap

>There are a couple of things that you need to know
>before tackling this. 1) you will need the double hump late model
>oil pan to clear the cross member. 2) you will need to relocate the
>oil filter and use an electric fuel pump. This swap gets the frame
>rails filled with engine!!!!! 3) You may need to clearance the
>AC/Heater box under the hood because the passenger valve cover will
>hit it.

Thanks! I read on a Ranger V8 site about the dual sump (or rear sump)
pan being needed. Already have a remote oil filter, and plan on using
the stock EFI (in the tank) fuel pump with a regulator (for the carb).

>4) speaking of clearance between the engine and
>radiator, you will need an electric fan.

The sites I mentioned said a stock flex fan should work. No room for a
clutch fan, though.


>I'd get a 289/302 instead of the 255. For all the effort, you are
>better off getting the larger motor. The 289/302 will run better and
>make more usable power than the 255, and they are the same size
>externally.

Going with the 255 for two reasons. #1)Already have a good running 255
(4V carb, aluminum intake, and good cam -- less than 10K on a solid
rebuild -- and it was cheap). #2)Less power. I am afraid that a 302 or
289 will tear up the 5-speed faster. Those Mitshu 5-speeds are not
that strong to begin with.

>I would really use an automatic for this combo...

Nope. I want to stay with the manual for several reasons. First, the
5-speed was just rebuilt last fall. Plus, changing over to an auto is
a real pain. And buying another trans would just add to the cost. And
since this is a 4x4 an auto (or a different [say--T5]) manual will
push the transfer case back. That would mean modifying the drive
shafts. That would put this project into the cannot afford category.
No, we are keeping the stock 5-speed and swapping in a 255 V8.

Thanks.

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