perf-list-digest Tuesday, December 8 1998 Volume 01 : Number 165



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Re Great Connecting Rod info.
FTE Perf - Re Connecting ROD riding against Cylinder wall.
RE: FTE Perf - Re Connecting ROD riding against Cylinder wall.
Re: FTE Perf - 429 project
Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.
FTE Perf - 460 in 4x4
Re: FTE Perf - 429 project
FTE Perf - Pistons & info
Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.
FTE Perf - 514 puller engine - doug
RE: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.
FTE Perf - Remote filter
FTE Perf - C6 Manual selection
RE: FTE Perf - Remote filter
FTE Perf - cocked piston
FTE Perf - ADMIN: Chat
Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.
RE: FTE Perf - C6 Manual selection
RE: FTE Perf - cocked piston
FTE Perf - Long Rods
Re: FTE Perf - Long rods

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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:07:11 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE Perf - Re Great Connecting Rod info.

Hi Chris. (Muel)

More info I had not considered. I just amazes me the amount of info I get
from you, sleddog, Azie, etc...

Is this some of what you were getting at about the 351M to 400M power house
engine we were discussing before?

Also, just slightly off topic, Does the 2 bolt main concern you with the
amount of power you described? (400 HP + tons of torque!)

Later my good friend.

"Paul"


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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:03:13 -0500
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE Perf - Re Connecting ROD riding against Cylinder wall.

Total bummer!!

Sleddog - Can this sort of thing just ruin a block or could it be rebored.
(I mean what is your experience in this area. You have more 460 experience
than any two other people I know. No insult intended to others.)

Just for my information.

Later,

"Paul"


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:58:55 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Re Connecting ROD riding against Cylinder wall.

there is a safe limit in boring out the 460 block. i consider .030 over
safe without any questions, and up to .060 is risky without a sonic check
of the material left, since the 460 is a thinwall casting and subject to
core shift as are most ford engine blocks. bores up to 4.470" (like my
puller) can be done, but not without its problems, and not without concrete
in the water jacket. i wouldn't recommend anything this big for anyone
running for more than a few minutes at a time without an SVO block.

if the cylinder wall is not damaged past this point, no problem in boring
it out. if it is damaged deeper than the overbore amount (preferably not
more than .030"), known by either boring it out to that amount and checking
for witness of damage, or by measuring if the damage is measurable,
then......

if the block is good all except one cylinder bore, i would most likely have
that one cylinder sleeved and bored for the current bore size, about $100.

if the rest of the block has any problems look at the cost of sleeving it
and fixing the rest of the block vs getting another block and starting all
over with all the machine work needed. it always comes down to
economics...

sleddog



- ----------
From: Mr. Paul R. Boudreault[SMTP:pboudreault sympatico.ca]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 8:03 AM
To: Perf-List-Digest (E-mail)
Subject: FTE Perf - Re Connecting ROD riding against Cylinder wall.

Total bummer!!

Sleddog - Can this sort of thing just ruin a block or could it be rebored.
(I mean what is your experience in this area. You have more 460 experience
than any two other people I know. No insult intended to others.)

Just for my information.

Later,

"Paul"


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 98 07:35:31 PST
From: "Doug Ridder"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 429 project

- ----------
> Hi all. I'm contemplating a 429 project for the winter, and I'd like
> to collect some information first. I'd like to keep costs down, and
> fun factor up.
>
> Baseline requirements:
>
> Gas mileage is not important.
> This engine will be flogged in a heavy vehicle w/auto trans.
> Must create sphincter-tightening acceleration.
> Would *like* the engine to last 1000 miles w/o freshening.
>
> 1. What torque/hp/rpm limits should I respect as far as the bottom
> end is concerned (assume OEM style parts)?

I run a 514 at 8400 rpms with a DIVE stock block. We believe it makes som=
ething over 800 hp with bluethunder heads on gas. After one season of =
pulling we broke the cast crank and had some main cap walking on the #2 =
and #4 main caps. I believe the block will take the punishment but we =
are going to install 4 bolt main caps from engine systems and try one of =
the new cast steel cranks for next year. our old crank was the weakest =
stock crank available (2Y). they say the 3Y cranks are better, we learne=
d the hard way. If your not going with big cubes consider a 429 steel =
truck crank. They can be offset ground to a 4.89 stroke with big C****y =
rod journals and should be able to handle all the power you can put in =
a naturally aspirated motor.
>
> 2. In the interest of furthering the limits in #1, are there any
> relatively simple block/oiling mods that can be done?

If you are going to turn many R's this is an area where you should get =
some professional help.
>
> 3. I'm contemplating a roller cam. Any recommendations for
> suppliers?
>
I agree with sleddog! Ultradyne's are awesome.

> 4. I'd like to try my hand at cylinder head porting. Any known
> how-to's? Any recommendations?
>
> Can you gurus can help with answers?
>
> Any and all information is greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Chad


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Date: Mon, 07 Dec 98 08:23:54 PST
From: "Doug Ridder"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.

I run a 390 bored .080 over for 401 cubes we are running stock 390 truck =
heads and the only port work we did was to portmatch the heads and intake=
(cast cobrajet intake). We pull the truck in a street class at about =
6000 rpms and 10.5 to 1 compression. I can't imagine that you would need=
any port work for a lower rpm motor unless it would be in the bowl area =
to increase air speed, you should have more volume that you need. Howeve=
r, when you get to playing in this area there is no substitute for experi=
ence and a flow bench. If torque is what you are after you need to figur=
e out how to get the exhaust out of the motor. We put in a bigger exhaus=
t valve 1.80" and used the stock intake valve size. You may also conside=
r a good set of custom build headers. It will amaze you how much torque =
you can get here if they are built right and how much you can loose if =
the are build wrong. Contact "Headers-by-Ed" for more info on proper hea=
der sizing.

My motor runs amazingly well at low rpms as well. We have had times when=
we let the motor fall to less that 500 rpms off the line and still pulle=
d out if it to win the class --- ALL TORQUE!

- ----------
> Hello all, I'm a recent subscriber to the Performance list, but have =
been
> on the 61-79 list for quite a while now. I figured this would be the =
place
> to get some answers for my current project.
>
> Just as a little background, I've got a 73ish 4x4 1/2 ton. Currently =
its
> got an old 360 with a C6 and a converted transfer case (full->part time=
).
> PS ... PB ... that's about it.
>
> I use this truck every day during the winter/spring so that I don't nee=
d to
> get salt on my car, and it has been by daily driver for the last 5 year=
s or
> so. I just put a 4V on the 360, that woke it up a lot, but I still =
want
> more torque. I don't pull much with it (people out of a ditch is about
> it), don't race ... (well not it, and not legally if I do). Pretty muc=
h
> just want a really cool engine to go in the really cool truck ... okay =
so
> some people will argue both points, but I think you get the idea.
>
> I have a 390 sitting totally disassembled in the garage. I was told =
it was
> a 76, and it looks to be that way, the block is a D4TE (74 truck engine=
),
> the heads are D2TEA?( 72 part number, with build dates of Dec. 75), the
> rods are C7AE (67 full size car), and the pistons are just cast with =
a 410
> near the wrist pin. I can't find a casting number on the crank, which
> baffles me because you NEED one so you know what its for right ? I
> measured and it looks like its 3.78 inch stroke, so it is a 390 crank, =
but
> I would like to find the casting number to be sure, anyone know where =
to
> look? I've already checked everything I can think of, and I just can't
> find it.
>
> My guess is that someone rebuilt it with older connecting rods and pist=
ons
> from a 410 to increase the compression ratio, but that's just a guess.
>
> My goal for this engine is to have a nice strong engine that has way =
more
> torque than I will ever need, down where any gas pedal action brings =
it to
> bear. Okay so that's probably a little unrealistic, but I would like =
nice
> low torque (
h it.
>
> My big debates for now are
> a) compression ratio ? was thinkin 10.5 or less, but now with gas the =
way
> it is, maybe 10 is a better idea ?
>
> b) heads : porting ? polishing? hardened valve seats? Would the head=
s I
> have already have hardened valve seats ? porting, I know you don't wan=
t
> the ports too big and reduce the torque, are they too small or too big
> already? I'm sure stock will be fine, but I'd rather make them optimum
> since I don't have to mess with emissions stuff ... same for polishing=
,
> any advantage here ?
>
> c) intake: single 4V, dual plane I think .... is it worth it for an
> aluminum, say Edelbrock, or will one of the stock ones work (I have the=
one
> for it,and one from a 65 galaxie)?
>
>
> Any thoughts or help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. =
I
> read all the stuff that I think might pertain to me in the least, so =
if you
> post about this, I'm sure I'll get it.
>
>
> Thanks a bunch.
> Bill
>
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
.html


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:43:23 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE Perf - 460 in 4x4

>From: "Bill Beyer"
>Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Welcome Back Chris!
>
>Ford never offered the 460 in a 4X4 until 1980.

Yo Bill:

Actually, the 460 was not offered by the factroy in a 4x4 until 1983, after
the M-blocks were discontinued. Until 1983, the biggest factory engine you
could get in a 4x4 was the 400.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 13:13:21 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 429 project

>> 4. I'd like to try my hand at cylinder head porting. Any known
>> how-to's? Any recommendations?
>>

Seems like I just saw an ad in Mustang Monthly for a new video about
porting ... I'll check at home tonight and see if I can dig up the
manufacturer ... maybe I'm remembering it all wrong, but it looked pretty
interesting ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:17:08 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE Perf - Pistons & info

Yo Fellow FTE Gearheads:

While looking for more M-block piston options (the Holy Grail) I came
across some nifty technical articles about piston design and high
performance at the KB Silv-o-lite web page. Check out the "Technical
Stuff" links at the following URL: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kb-silvolite.com/1toc.htm

I am not affiliated w/ united Engine and Machine Company in any way, but I
am a satisfied user of some of their products.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 13:18:32 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.

>rpms and 10.5 to 1 compression. I can't imagine that you would need any

Are you runnin some high octane gas with this? Obviously if you're racing
you are, but have you tried lower octane ? I'd like to be able to run on
pump gas, but I'd also like 10.5:1, of course as Dad says, people in h*ll
want ice water too ... What is the highest I can run on say 89 or 90
octane ? Its gettin hard to find much above that around here ...


>port work for a lower rpm motor unless it would be in the bowl area to
>increase air speed, you should have more volume that you need.

That's what I was wondering, I haven't peeked inside the passages lately,
but figured there might be some bowl work or something that I could use. I
hope I can find someone around here who knows something about workin on
these engines...all the speed shops around here love bowties, so its hard
findin people to work on a Ford, much less who know anything about hoppin
one up...

However,
>when you get to playing in this area there is no substitute for experience
>and a flow bench.

I've got neither, guess I'm toast ;)


If torque is what you are after you need to figure out
>how to get the exhaust out of the motor. We put in a bigger exhaust valve
>1.80" and used the stock intake valve size. You may also consider a good
>set of custom build headers. It will amaze you how much torque you can get
>here if they are built right and how much you can loose if the are build
>wrong. Contact "Headers-by-Ed" for more info on proper header sizing.
>
Headers-by-Ed ? Never heard of them...how would I contact them, and where
are they ? I don't really want long tube headers, but would like some
shorties. The long tubes always stick down too far, I'd like to keep a
clean, stock appearing truck (from the outside ;)


>My motor runs amazingly well at low rpms as well. We have had times when we
>let the motor fall to less that 500 rpms off the line and still pulled out
>if it to win the class --- ALL TORQUE!
>
Congratulations :)

Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:29:17 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: FTE Perf - 514 puller engine - doug

oh yeh! another BB ford puller!

my block the caps walked at lower rpm than that for the last owner, with a
steel crank. a friends SVO block also experienced cap walk, though at what
rpm we don't know, it did turn over 9000 often enuff.

i run a cast crank, also a D1VE block. mine is offset ground to 4.15
stroke with a 4.47 bore.

which BT heads you have? CR? alum or steel rods? how the crank break? i
am making now maybe 700-750 hp, and with my new carb should be up to 750+
no problem. what kind size cam?

i hope to not bust my parts up. tell me more about your engine - i love
talking engines and benchracing. where are youfrom - where do you pull?

sleddog

- ----------
From: Doug Ridder[SMTP:ridder socket.net]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 10:35 AM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 429 project

I run a 514 at 8400 rpms with a DIVE stock block. We believe it makes
something over 800 hp with bluethunder heads on gas. After one season of
pulling we broke the cast crank and had some main cap walking on the #2 and
#4 main caps. I believe the block will take the punishment but we are
going to install 4 bolt main caps from engine systems and try one of the
new cast steel cranks for next year. our old crank was the weakest stock
crank available (2Y). they say the 3Y cranks are better, we learned the
hard way. If your not going with big cubes consider a 429 steel truck
crank. They can be offset ground to a 4.89 stroke with big C****y rod
journals and should be able to handle all the power you can put in a
naturally aspirated motor.
>





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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:43:15 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.

i got a 9:1 460 that runs all day, and can pull on the track using 87
octane, with no problems yet. my previuos build had 11.5:1 with the early
heads and ran on cheap stuff ok, ran on 92 with only occasional knocking
when it would get a bit hot. but i wouldn't try that again.

either build got between 5-10 mpg depending on conditions, but in winter
with hubs locked dropped to about 3 or so mpg.

with good chamber polishing and a good parts match i think 10:1 is safe for
iron heads, but this is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth.
for untouched stock heads i think 9.5:1 would be the limit, to be safe.
but then when is building power ever safe? somethuing could always go
wrong....

sleddog

- ----------
From: William S Hart[SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 2:18 PM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.

>rpms and 10.5 to 1 compression. I can't imagine that you would need any

Are you runnin some high octane gas with this? Obviously if you're racing
you are, but have you tried lower octane ? I'd like to be able to run on
pump gas, but I'd also like 10.5:1, of course as Dad says, people in h*ll
want ice water too ... What is the highest I can run on say 89 or 90
octane ? Its gettin hard to find much above that around here ...



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:47:21 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Remote filter

Sleddog. Exactly where in the flow of the fluid is the remote filter
located??????

Without knowing where you have it located I think the filter may be a
restriction of oil flow to to your internals!!!(clutch packs and bands)
If you have it in the coolant lines, then I am wrong!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:57:22 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - C6 Manual selection

Sleddog writes: >>if i put it in third with a normal valvebody, with a C6
does it go into third, or stay in 2nd. i know that the stock tranny allows
manual selection of 2nd, but third too?

3rd is not programmed to be manually selected. Only 2nd and 1st. 3rd (D)
will get you 1st thru 3rd automatically. The selector is still P R N D 2 1
isn't it. It's been quite a while since I've been in one also.

I'm on digest and just got to my Fridays mail. Reason I may be behind on
this thread.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:03:27 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Remote filter

filter is in the location of the cooler lines. the oil exits tranny enters
filter, then cooler, then returns to tranny. about 10-12 ft of line for
the whole distance.

sleddog

ps-i did get a mention from someone else, that it may be low main pressure
applied to the friction surface, as in a flow restriction or loss
someplace. this sounds like a possibilty. in the next few monthes i will
find out.


- ----------
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com[SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 3:47 PM
To: Perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Remote filter

Sleddog. Exactly where in the flow of the fluid is the remote filter
located??????

Without knowing where you have it located I think the filter may be a
restriction of oil flow to to your internals!!!(clutch packs and bands)
If you have it in the coolant lines, then I am wrong!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:16:07 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE Perf - cocked piston

Dale C. writes: >>Well Azie was right, (why am I not suprised?), the
piston had sheared at the pin boss. The pieces from the lower half of the
piston were in the pan......rod was twisted and had been riding up and down
the cylinder wall....ouch!! The cylinder wall way badly damaged.

Sorry to hear that Dale, but I was really hoping you would have better luck
than I do most of the time. Now you have to make a choice.. Bore all 8
cyl's or bore one and sleeve it back to normal!!

You might be able to find a good block reasonably close for much less than
you can do either of my cures mentioned above... Call around to the local
salvage yards and ask them for a "Core" 429/460 block. "Core" means it is
not cracked/bursted/broken and is rebuildable It may require boring, but
most don't. You have to be willing to take that chance, though. I can
usually get them around here for $100. Sometimes a bit less.

Good luck.

Azie



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:00:35 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Perf - ADMIN: Chat

The registration email problems with the chat have been
corrected. If you've already registered, you'll have to
register again.

If you use AOL, you cannot use the chat at this point.
AOL's browser is brain damaged and will not talk through
ports other than 80 and 8080. The chat client requires use
of ports 3334-3336. Please don't complain to me about it,
it's AOL's fault. I know of no other ISP that has this
problem. I'm working on a telnet version of the chat, but
I cannot promise that it will work with AOL. If it means
alot to you, switch providers.

Also, the chat may or may not function behind a firewall,
depending on whether ports 3334-3336 are filtered out.

Other than the email problems (which have been corrected),
this chat server has been rock solid and will not be
replaced. I have neither the time nor money to invest in
another server. I've already spent nearly 40 hours in
the last month on the chat problems.

If your browser doesn't work, try upgrading it to the
latest version since the upgrades for Netscape and
Internet Explorer are free. I cannot solve browser Java
implementation problems. Numerous bugs exist in earlier
implementations of Java that have been corrected.

I've talked to many people, both chat server admins and
the chat users on their systems, about this server and
99% of the responses were positive.

Ken Payne
Admin

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 98 12:37:42 PST
From: "Doug Ridder"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - 390 buildup.

- ----------
> >rpms and 10.5 to 1 compression. I can't imagine that you would need =
any
>
> Are you runnin some high octane gas with this? Obviously if you're rac=
ing
> you are, but have you tried lower octane ? I'd like to be able to run =
on
> pump gas, but I'd also like 10.5:1, of course as Dad says, people in =
h*ll
> want ice water too ... What is the highest I can run on say 89 or 90
> octane ? Its gettin hard to find much above that around here ...
>
>

In the class we run in we are limited to a maximun of 94 octane fuel in =
order to limit compression. this past year we have been running 91 octan=
e out of the local convience store pump and it acctually runs better that=
it did before on Turbo Blue. I have been known to run the cheap 87 stuf=
f up and down the road and it runs ok on it , but it will spark knock und=
er a load with 87. The other thing to consider is that I run my timming =
about 34 - 36 degrees advanced which helps reduce detonation. I am curre=
ntly in the process of building a 460 for my trailer towing truck and we =
are shooting for 10.5 to 1 compression in it however, if we only get 10 =
to 1 that will be ok too. Usually you end up a little shorter on compress=
ion that what the piston manufacturers tell you so I wouldn't be afraid =
to shoot for 10.5 in hopes of ending up with 10, at least that's what =
I'm doing with my 460.

> >port work for a lower rpm motor unless it would be in the bowl area =
to
> >increase air speed, you should have more volume that you need.
>
> That's what I was wondering, I haven't peeked inside the passages latel=
y,
> but figured there might be some bowl work or something that I could use=
. I
> hope I can find someone around here who knows something about workin =
on
> these engines...all the speed shops around here love bowties, so its =
hard
> findin people to work on a Ford, much less who know anything about hopp=
in
> one up...
>

That's the way it is arround here too, but it's not hard to change a few =
opinions once you get a good running FE on the road. It seems like most =
people have forgotten just how strong those old motors are -- especially =
after you do a little work to them. Most of the chevy boys I pull with =
are still scratching their about my little FE trying to figure out why =
their bowtie has so many TIRE TRACKS on it!!!!!

> However,
> >when you get to playing in this area there is no substitute for experi=
ence
> >and a flow bench.
>
> I've got neither, guess I'm toast ;)
>
>
> If torque is what you are after you need to figure out

> >how to get the exhaust out of the motor. We put in a bigger exhaust =
valve
> >1.80" and used the stock intake valve size. You may also consider a =
good
> >set of custom build headers. It will amaze you how much torque you =
can get
> >here if they are built right and how much you can loose if the are bui=
ld
> >wrong. Contact "Headers-by-Ed" for more info on proper header sizing.
> >
> Headers-by-Ed ? Never heard of them...how would I contact them, and =
where

Headers-by-Ed is a company out of I believe Minnasota? That custom desig=
ns and builds headers for all sorts of racing. They have done alot of =
research on sizing headers in the primary tubes and collectors and have =
parts available in alot of very uncommon sizes to properly fit your motor=
. The also have a sizing chart that will tell you what size headers you =
need based on you Hp, cubes, and rpms. I would recommend to anyone who =
is into high performance motors to call them and buy there education info=
rmation package. I think it is about 20 bucks. Even if you don't buy =
any headers from them at least you will have an idea of what you need whe=
n you buy something else. This guy has been testing headers since the =
early 60's and has a wealth of knowledge about header design. their numb=
er is (612) 729 - 2802.

> are they ? I don't really want long tube headers, but would like some
> shorties. The long tubes always stick down too far, I'd like to keep =
a
> clean, stock appearing truck (from the outside ;)
>
>
> >My motor runs amazingly well at low rpms as well. We have had times =
when we
> >let the motor fall to less that 500 rpms off the line and still pulled=
out
> >if it to win the class --- ALL TORQUE!
> >
> Congratulations :)
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill
>
> Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
.html


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:13:41 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - C6 Manual selection

yup, i had a momentary lapse of reasoning there. 3 is D.

i am not sure if this tranny has a full manual, or stock valve body. it
appears to be a stock valve body with maybe some mods, but not a full
manual - course it is hard to tell when you don't have the ability to open
it up on the road and try it.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com[SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 3:57 PM
To: Perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - C6 Manual selection

Sleddog writes: >>if i put it in third with a normal valvebody, with a C6
does it go into third, or stay in 2nd. i know that the stock tranny allows
manual selection of 2nd, but third too?

3rd is not programmed to be manually selected. Only 2nd and 1st. 3rd (D)
will get you 1st thru 3rd automatically. The selector is still P R N D 2 1
isn't it. It's been quite a while since I've been in one also.

I'm on digest and just got to my Fridays mail. Reason I may be behind on
this thread.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:47:18 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - cocked piston

i have one here with mains, been mag'd and should be good. rusty but will
clean up. don't know off hand the bore size. i am sorry i can't ship
though.

if you are close to stroudsburg pa though let me know. if you are
interested i'll check the bore size for you and the date.

i will let it go cheap to get it out of my garage.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com[SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 4:16 PM
To: Perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Perf - cocked piston

Dale C. writes: >>Well Azie was right, (why am I not suprised?), the
piston had sheared at the pin boss. The pieces from the lower half of the
piston were in the pan......rod was twisted and had been riding up and down
the cylinder wall....ouch!! The cylinder wall way badly damaged.

Sorry to hear that Dale, but I was really hoping you would have better luck
than I do most of the time. Now you have to make a choice.. Bore all 8
cyl's or bore one and sleeve it back to normal!!

You might be able to find a good block reasonably close for much less than
you can do either of my cures mentioned above... Call around to the local
salvage yards and ask them for a "Core" 429/460 block. "Core" means it is
not cracked/bursted/broken and is rebuildable It may require boring, but
most don't. You have to be willing to take that chance, though. I can
usually get them around here for $100. Sometimes a bit less.

Good luck.

Azie



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:13:13 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE Perf - Long Rods

Muel said;
>Some engines are long rod engines such as the 460 and 351M.
>Many engines (IME most) will require higher octane fuel due simply to the
>increased pressure.

In the December Hot Rod windsor build-up. They claim to be running 11:1 CR
on 87 octane!
Now that gets my attention!
So what is the key??....


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