perf-list-digest Thursday, July 9 1998 Volume 01 : Number 022



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling
FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling
RE: FTE Perf - best muffler?
Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling
Re: FTE Perf - best muffler?
Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling
FTE Perf - Alum. Driveshaft
Re: FTE Perf - best muffler?
Re: FTE Perf - Re: anti-SUV survey
FTE Perf - ADMIN: 250,000th visitor
FTE Perf - Lincoln 9" rear with disc brakes
FTE Perf - 350hp 302. GOTTA KNOW
FTE Perf - Valvez

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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 17:12:08 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling

At 01:55 PM 7/8/98 -0700, you wrote:

>Do you have the fans on a shroud? On a previous vehicle, I mounted an 18"
>fan on the stock shroud. That worked good. I've talked to a tech at Perma
>Cool about their fans and he recommends removing the shroud and mounting
>the fan directly to the radiator. Seems to me a shroud would improve
>airflow through the radiator. I want to do something to get that big metal
>fan off the front of the engine and not have to spin it when it's not needed.
>
>Danny
>

Electric fans don't need a shroud because the mounting is
flush with the radiator. The mount is the shroud.



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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 17:28:27 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling

Sorry Steve! I couldn't resist. When there is a good idea backed up with
perfomance and is time tested, it's hard to not to share a great idea with
the group. Especially when a fellow FTE member needs advice. I didn't come
up with the concept, so I had to give credit where credit was due.

Good Job!

-Ted
_____________
Shhh.. don't tell anybody Ted, but I've been hanging out on this list
too.(-:
Just been in the "stealth mode" watching and listening...


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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 17:49:29 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - best muffler?

my borla mufflers have lasted for about 6 yrs now. even with the salty roads and the other hazards such as mud, dirt, rocks, etc.

they got a little louder as they "broke in", but have now stayed the same. they do make noise though.

sleddog

- ----------
From: George[SMTP:maga55 ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 12:48 PM
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - best muffler?


- -----Original Message-----
From: Danny Gaudenti
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 8:14 AM
Subject: FTE Perf - best muffler?


Anybody have a suggestion for muffler? I don't care about sound or that
it's made from stainless steel or what gauge steel it's made from. I just
want the best flowing muffler to help open up the exhaust. Right now, I'm
thinking about a 3-chamber Flowmaster.

Comments?

Thanks,

Danny

I've found that few of them last very long when running headers on a
modified engine. Even the guy at the muffler shop I use suggested I go for
the cheap ones so he didn't have to listen to me complain about how quick
the Flowmaster and other 'name' brands burn out.

George


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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 16:27:39 -0700
From: Danny Gaudenti
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling

>Electric fans don't need a shroud because the mounting is
>flush with the radiator. The mount is the shroud.

Yep, thanks. I just had a look at the pics on his web page (good page). I
have seen those types of fans before. Not all of the radiator is covered
(space near the top), but it must flow enough air for that not to be a
problem. I'm thinking about a fan made by Perma Cool. It's an open
housing which seems like it would flow air better.


Danny

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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 20:30:20 EDT
From: MindEfx aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - best muffler?

thats what i have on my 4.0 Ranger. I got 3" pipe from the cat to the muffler
and then dual 2.5" off the muffler out the back corners of the truck with 3"
chrome tips. The flowmaster really helped alot with higher end power, the low
end power seems about the same, maybe a little better. With the stock exhaust
the engine seemed to level off after 4000rpm but with the flowmasters it still
pulls good until just under redline. Not that you drive like that often or
anything, but it was still an improvement. I dont tow anything so I dont know
if it would help with that, but i guess it would. As far as the sound, until
3000rpm it sounds pretty deep and throaty, after 3000 rpm it starts to take on
that higher pitched typical v-6 sound. But most of your driving is under 3000
anyway. And it helped gas milage noticably too.
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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 17:48:05 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Electric Fan Cooling

>> Some of you know me from the 61-79 list or the pre-61 list, but since
>> this is my first post to this list I'll do an intro...
>>
>> I'm Steve, and I have a '71 F100 flairside with mildly built up FE390.
>
>Hi Steve!

Hey Bill! I know You... (-:

>I swear that sounded like the beginning of an AA meeting! ;-) Maybe not
>since I've never actually been to one but that's what they look like on TV
>anyway. So whaddaya think...FTA...Ford Trucks Anonymous...BOA...Blue Ovals
>Anonymous...SOH...Sons of Henry?

Ford trucks can definately become an addiction!
I don't think FTA would help tho, I'm much too far gone for that...

It's a good thing we're not dodge owners, we'd be D.O.A. !

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"Light fuse and get away. Do not hold in hand.
Use only under close adult supervision.
For outdoor use only."

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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 21:00:13 -0400
From: Brett ITT 41
Subject: FTE Perf - Alum. Driveshaft

First, thanks for all the responses on my last question on colder plugs.
Now, I am considering putting in an alum. shaft into my racing ranger.
The drive line shop wants $300 bucks for a custom made but I was
thinking that the aerostar van used a alum. shaft. Does anyone know the
length on a aerostar shaft? The dealers computer doesn't give the
length. I was figuring I could have it cut down to my 51 1/4" cheaper
than having one custom made. So all that said what sort of advantages
does an alum. shaft make? Other than weight reduction. How will it
affect accel. and stopping? I ask this because it was just allowed in
the rules this year and I am curios if it is worth the trouble. Again
Thank you all this is a great list.

gottago seeya bye

Brett ITT 41
(Improved touring truck)
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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 20:20:36 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - best muffler?

At 10:12 AM 7/8/98 , Danny wrote:
>Anybody have a suggestion for muffler? I don't care about sound or that
>it's made from stainless steel or what gauge steel it's made from. I just
>want the best flowing muffler to help open up the exhaust. Right now, I'm
>thinking about a 3-chamber Flowmaster.
>Danny

Dynomax Super Turbo - no substitute - out flows a flowmaster and quieter.

IMHO,

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 20:28:49 -0700
From: "Dave & Debby Anderson"
Subject: Re: FTE Perf - Re: anti-SUV survey

The survey is worth taking just to see the responses they've accumulated.
Got a good laugh out of that. (Q. Do sport utility vehicles pose a threat
to other highway drivers? A. No. Q. If yes, what should be done about this
problem? A. Nothing)

I doubt the results will sway these folks any but it's nice to see their
ranting isn't having much effect on the rest of us either.

Dave
SWMBO's big, dangerous, can't see around it, gas guzzling, driven over 20
miles each way to work, environmentally hazardous and a general threat to
humanity '93 Explorer

various and assorted others


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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 23:54:39 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Perf - ADMIN: 250,000th visitor

Just had our 250,000th visitor to the web site. Thought
some of you might want to know. Thanks!

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 01:16:50 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: FTE Perf - Lincoln 9" rear with disc brakes

Hi gang ran across a nice Lincoln 9" rear end complete assembly with disc
brakes today at the boneyard for $175.00. Does this sound good? I don't
need it right now so I thought I would pass it on to everyone. If it's good
enough I just might buy it for safe keeping.... what do you all think? If
anyone needs it let me know privately and I'll give you the info...

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 23:30:48 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - 350hp 302. GOTTA KNOW

So what is the recipe for the 350hp 302. GOTTA KNOW!!!
CHRIS IN ALBUQUERQUE

Start out with a good sound block. Do all of the machining steps that one
would normally do to "Blueprint" the block. The block will make virtually no
power, but if not correct will cost power. Install Main studs instead of
bolts, ARP only IMHO.
You can do this with a stock crankshaft, this engine did, if you budget can
stand it you want the lightest crank that you can afford.
Connecting rods, here again the stockers will work but you really should
step up to a good aftermarket set: Eagle, Crower, Oliver, are affordable.
You can not overkill here. If this is going to be a street only engine and
therefore only occasionally flogged you can run a set of aluminum rods, if
you run them in a race application plan on replacing them accordingly.
Pistons, you are aiming for a minimum of 9,5 to 1 CR, Hypers work at this CR
(this engine turned 7200 on them) but go to forged if you go any higher then
that; or if you will be exceeding 6k RPM (yes I was nervous). If you are
building a race engine get a set of JE pistons and accept no substitutes.
Good Moly Rings forget the "ZeroGap stuff. For a race engine you should
consider a set of low tension rings.
Highest quality components and a HV oil Pump.
Heads... The engine that I was referring to had stock production heads as
required by the rules. I honestly don't know which heads he had on the
motor. The were Cast Iron. I would look into a set of Windsor JR if my
budget is tight but be aware that these heads as delivered are limited in
the cam lift that they will accept; it is less then advertised so check it!
Here again a good Aluminum head would be my choice as I could increase the
CR.
Again according to the rules he had to run a "Factory" Intake Manifold. I
believe that it was the optional "Edelbrock Performer RPM PN. M-9424-Z351"
and it had been 'Extrude honed'.
The cam was too conservative but he was limited by the "rules" to a cam the
gave no more then 0.500 lift at the valve. The duration was some where
around 260-280 by the sound of it, and I did not ask at the time for the
specs. sorry! Honestly this engine was camshaft limited, the duration was
not long enough, even though the valve lift was limited.
The engine had to run a non modified Holley 4BBL Carb and that is what it
started out with on the Dyno. When the Carb was swapped to a specially
prepped (not modified) BG Carb the engine gained power everywhere, the
number was +30 BHP.

So, how would I do it?
The 302 makes no torque relatively speaking, but it will wind up tight.
Now, Power production is directly related to air flow. With only 300 inches
you can not take the big gulps that you can with engines over 350 inches. So
to get air Flow you must take more breaths per min. So... build the engine
to go upstairs!

No Budget. $1500-$2250
All stock parts except the intake manifold, Carb, Cam, and Headers. MAG
EVERYTHING! Clean up the ports with your die grinder; flange match the ports
on the sides and top of the port and smooth the Bowls. Do a 3 angle valve
job and smooth the combustion chambers. Run an aluminum intake I would go to
the "RPM" or Weiand Stealth. about a 650-750 CFM Carb. A good set of headers
2.5" pipes Flowmasters and all mandrel bends. Run a MSD or Crane Ignition.
More Budget. $2500-$4500
Alum Heads-Big Valves, 12.5:1 and race or Av. Gas, 850 Dbl. Pumper. Single
plane intake. Cam timing in the 280-300 range, large dia. short primary
headers, Light weight rotating/reciprocating components. negative crankcase
pressure.
Unlimited Budget.
Call me for a quote!-)

I know that I only touched the top level here,,, but this is long enough for
now.

Later
CS

PS: Pitch the "factory" flywheel and get an aftermarket Steel Flywheel if
you rev over 5000 RPM. Please! Please! Please!


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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 23:30:55 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - Valvez

You're in the biz, which manufacturer's valves do you recommend?
George.

Nothing wrong with Manley for most of our applications.
Ferria (spelling? slightly higher quality but how much???) made the ones in
my 400 heads on the exhaust side, because at that time there was this little
351W running in a late Mdl. that had sucked up several sets of my valves and
so when I did my heads I stole the race valves!
The Manley valves did not fail they touched something called a Piston at a
high rate of speed, Something that I am told you should not have happen! and
never do in two races back to back!
Of course the Titanium stuff is like handling fine Jewelry!....

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