perf-list-digest Tuesday, September 29 1998 Volume 01 : Number 103

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Performance
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In this issue:

FTE Perf - Running W/O Thermostat
RE: FTE Perf - Running W/O Thermostat - long
FTE Perf - ADMIN: New advertiser on web site
FTE Perf - Feuling Aluminum Big-Block Ford Heads
FTE Perf - 429 plug wires and Bronco stuff.



Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 11:31:55 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE Perf - Running W/O Thermostat

Just out of curiosity, I remember there has always been some doubt as to
whether running without a thermostat can cause overheating. I was
wondering what the specific problem people are having is. My theory is
that the high flow from the water pump unrestricted is causing the
pressure cap to be overcome on a down flow radiator therfore presenting
the appearance of boiling. Has anyone had this happen on a cross flow
radiator or had the temperature gauge also climb sky high?

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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 16:30:19 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE Perf - Running W/O Thermostat - long

this is my understanding to this point.

the fast water speed does not allow time enough for the heat to "move"
through the water. this creats hot spots and small areas of boiling. This
is not good. sometimes the temp gauge may still show normal temp, but the
back of the engine may not be receiving good cooling. also the speed of
the water may create cavitation. remember, that in the equations for heat
transfer there is a time variable. and the heat moves through a stationary
surface, the head and block, to a boundry layer, to laminer flow and
possibly to turbulant flow of the liquid. the heat must travel this path.
the water right next to the iron/aluminum is not in motion. if the water
does not allow the heat to pass into its "flow", then it stays at the
boundery layer, not passing into the flow and to the radiater. also this
same theory works in the radiater, getting rid of the heat i think. so,
for too fast a flow, 2 possible problems that may even happen combined,
happening because of the fast flow. am i making sense?

the holes in the head gaskets (or in the head and block?) are smaller in
the front than the back to help move water through the whole unit, but at
the higher water speeds i think it means less.

from experience:
my 521 pulling engine i ran without a thermostat for most of my pulls i
use an electric pump (meizere) that by looking in the radiater cap
*appears* to move a considereably larger volume of water than a stock pump
through a thermostat at even high rpms. FWIW it flows so much, that when
there is a pinhole in the radiater, and the engine is off, when i turn on
the pump it sucks air in to the radiater through the pinhole. turn off
pump, pinhole leaks again. interesting no?

i have tried a restrictor in place of the thermostat also.
with restrictor it appears to warm up faster, but after the engine is at
operating temp it doesn't seem to heat up any faster (either way it will
overheat with pump, fans going and under any curcumstances. too much
concrete in block!)
then after it gets a bit too hot, after a run, or idling too much around
pits, it gets hotter faster again. at least it seems this way.

after shutting off engine, it appears to cool the engine down faster
(electric pump and fan running) than without the restrictor. my hole size
in restrictor was just a guess. maybe it needs to be enlarged, or smaller,
i don't know yet.

i use only water and a rust prohibitive and lube in the cooling system.

all this may seem negated by the fact that my cousing keeps his sb mopar
cool (before it overheated like mine does) by running small dia lines from
the back of the intake to the front t-stat housing. he uses no restricter
or t-stat. coolant temp is consistant and never overheats unless several
runs are back to back without cooldown time. will never overheat idling
aruond pits. i may be doing this to my engine during winter.

all of the above is my thinking, maybe someone else can bring better
understanding to me also?

- ----------
From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 1998 2:31 PM
To: perf-list
Subject: FTE Perf - Running W/O Thermostat

Just out of curiosity, I remember there has always been some doubt as to
whether running without a thermostat can cause overheating. I was
wondering what the specific problem people are having is. My theory is
that the high flow from the water pump unrestricted is causing the
pressure cap to be overcome on a down flow radiator therfore presenting
the appearance of boiling. Has anyone had this happen on a cross flow
radiator or had the temperature gauge also climb sky high?

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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:10:36 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Perf - ADMIN: New advertiser on web site

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For more information on this exciting new SUV accessory contact
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We would like to you to let them know you heard about them via
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CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 19:08:19 -0700
From: "Tom Ewing"
Subject: FTE Perf - Feuling Aluminum Big-Block Ford Heads

Has anyone else seen the Nov98 aritcle in Popular Hot Rodding about the
soon to be released Feuling alumuinum big-block Ford heads? I'm not
familiar with this manufacturer, but according to the article, the magazine
did a piece some time in the past on Feuling alum heads for Chevys. I'm
a long ways from being an engine techie, and I thought if anyone has had
experience or knowlege about these heads maybe they can share the
wealth. The article shows the heads combustion chambers to be a kind of
figure-eight shape? The Ford heads are still in testing, but they give
like their bench mark 460 before the heads has 465lbs/ft torque at 2,500rpm
and 274hp at 4,000rpm, and after the Feuling heads plus a cam change they
get524lbs/ft torque at 2,750rpm and 369 hp at 4,250. The article doesn't
at prices, but they plan to market the heads for street performance, boat
and "sluggish tow vehicles".
All grown up still plays with trucks.

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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 20:50:17 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE Perf - 429 plug wires and Bronco stuff.

Yep. The issue with BOSS 429 is that it is the "HEMI" and so the Plug end is
the issue. We are checking to see if we can just use the "HEMI" plug wires;
and by now we probably have em but I have not spoken to the guyz so I don't

No this is not to replace the 400 in my Bronco. My truck is not worth that
much effort and so it would just be a waste! Were I to think about a "Boss"
there is a Intercooled, Twin Turbo, DEFI, 634 Inch AR BOSS Engine in the
shop and it is the one to use. As soon as I figure out how AND have the time
I do intend to scan the pictures. EYE CANDY! All Aluminum and stainless and
polished to with in an inch of its life! Try 2000HP!

78-79 Bronco stuff.
IME:) If your truck is in sound condition and everything is functioning like
new then the following applies.
If you don't wheel hard you can get 33's on a stock truck. You can wheel
well into the moderate category with 33's and a 2" lift. Not until you get
to extreme or 36's do you need a lift of 4". At least that has worked on the
last few that I have built.

I agree that the rear disk conversion is desirable but with 33's I have
never "NEEDED" it. with the 36's I still don't need it but it would be nice!

35 Spine axils are AFIK only aftermarket and IMHO Duchman has the best parts
for the price. You stock axil has 31 splines and will easily stand up to
400 HP and 33" tires again if they are in good condition.

Do not replace the driveshaft before you lift it, or only lift it 2 inches
if you do. IMHO Six States is the place to get your new shaft if you can
not have one made locally.

Your description of your truck is vary similar to what I ran for a long
IMHO if you are only running 33's - 4.56 will be a steep set of gears if you
have to travel the super slab for long. I ran the 3.54's for a long time and
they were never the reason that I couldn't go somewhere. But they would suck
when running rock because you only have 1st./low range.
In its last incarnation before this last rebuild here is what I learned.
2" lift but made out of the following components:
Rancho 3-4" coils for the little Bronco this gives you a spring rate of
aprox. 550 Lb/in. This spring rate is perfect with single RS 5000 shocks (or
the =) and will accommodate a reasonable winch bumper. If your bumper/winch
combo is massive you may need more Spring & Shock.
Full Poly Kit. What is that the 15Pc. set?
I pitched the sway bar as it was (for me) unnecessary, limits suspension
travel, and the springs and shocks more then made up for it.
SuperLift Adjustable Track Bar and Adjustable Drag link. Skip the dropped
pitman arm and track arm lowering brackets. If the lift is under 6 inches
and definitely under 4 inch they are simply not necessary. Yes I know that I
am disagreeing with almost everyone out there, so here is my reasoning:
1. I measured everything and plotted it all out in CAD. If you look at the
amount of binding that happens... We are talking INCHES! You understand why
everything is mounted in soft rubber!
2. The critical thing is to avoid bump steer, but with all of the monkey
motion that this suspension makes the only thing that you can do is to keep
the Track Bar and the Drag Link parallel. No matter what you do you will
have some bump steer but the parallelism between these two linkages will
make or break the system, and is the only thing that you really have control
over. The Tie rod ends can easily accommodate the full range of angularity
that the stock mounting points for the shocks will let happen, more on this
3. The dropped pitman arm and Track bar bracket feed a bunch of extra
loading into both the frame and steering gear box that they were not
designed for. I have repaired cracked frames; the steering gear box has no
lower bearing and wears the case excessively.
4. Every truck ends up with a different amount of lift and that makes the
Drop pieces one size fits all, or more correctly none; so you end up with
the ft. axil no longer centered under the truck!

For safeties sake I run Braided Stainless Break Lines.

In the rear, well I hate blocks! But they work if you don't exceed 2 inches
and have them custom made. Do not stack the factory tapered wedge and a
block! Have a machine shop make you a block with the tapered wedge built in.
Expensive? not really when you figure the cost of spitting out the
I only run single shocks in the rear and ended up with custom springs (I
hate blocks that much!). They are simply the stock spring rearched 2 inches
over stock and have had 1 full length spring added under the main leaf.
Replace the rear spring bushings with Poly. My truck would just never settle
down when running fast off road. I could hang the rearend out and "Flat
Track" the corners but I had to drive it the whole way. Simply changing
these bushings made a big difference in the handling. Corners that I could
only take at 50 I could then take at 85/90. That is a big difference.
After a while I wanted more wheel travel and the shock mounting points are
the biggest limiters. I custom built both upper and lower mounts in both
front and back and ended up with 18" in front and 12" in the rear. These
Modifications are not simple to figure out but relatively easy to do once
you figure out how!
I still had moderate Wheel Hop both under power and breaking. My solution
was Dual "Kicker Shocks" on a custom designed set of brackets. Ladder Bars
are simply a joke for anything that turns, or crosses rough ground. They
work on Drag Racers and I have seen them in action on some pullers (though I
am out of my league here, SD?). IMNSHO Ladder bars have no place on a real

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