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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list perf-list); Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:39:47 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:39:47 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #99
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Performance, Hot-Rod and Custom
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The 4R70W can be made into a really bulletproof torque handler. I have one
that has been built up to handle the beating I give it using it daily to work
and then drag racing on the weekend. The main components that you can upgrade
to make it work much better and last longer are as follows:
The valve body. B&M, Art Carr, Level 10 and Trans Go all make a shift kit for
our trannies. All are about the same, but the TransGo kit has quite a few
springs to change the firmness of the shifts.
The Mechanical Diode: This is what does most of the work as far as engaging
the clutches and steels. The stock one is shallow and weak. Get the Art Carr
upgrade. It is deeper, so it holds more clutches, and has better teeth to
hold the clutches and steels.
The bearings: Use nothing but Torrington bearings. They are the best at
dissipating the immense heat that builds up in these chronically "slippy"
The actual rebuild kit I used is the Art Carr 22251 Heavy Duty rebuild kit.
It runs about $240. I also have the deep pan (2 more quarts of fluid), and a
HUGE cooler on it with an 8" fan. The stock type coolers SUCK. You need to go
with a regular aluminum finned cooler to really keep it cool, and always go
bigger. If you have any more questions, please feel free to email me off
list. I have a LOT of info on these trannies and don't want to kill Ken's
94 Flareside SC
#2 Top Truck
Did you not read the first part of my column it said THIS IS NOT EXACT
I was stating a point.
that dropping down to 3rd gear or whatever gear will mean you slow down some and if the engine cannot speed you back up because you are on a hill you are stuck with that slower speed. but a gear change will raise the rpms to a more sutable one for building speed because you have a little higher rpms.
as in if you switched to 4.10s from 3.55's you would have much better startup for getting heavy loads started then your speeds would be different in all gears of your trannies so if you have good rpms in the gear to crawl hills you can keep going but with the 3.55s you would have to slow down because the shift lag time.
drag racers and 4wheeldrivers will tell you the same and know a lot about this. me being a 4wheeldriver and a racer.and yes i tow a lot.
i know about this too :)
If I'm reading your posting right (which isn't all that easy) you are saying
the 3.08 rear in 4th gear at 45 mph will give 1300 engine rpm, but going to
a 3.55 or 3.73 will raise rpm to around 2500.
Um, nope. The 3.55 is 15.3% steeper than the 3.08, and will raise rpm by
exactly 15.3%. 1300 rpm becomes 1500 rpm. Likewise the 3.73 is 21.1%
If the engine in this example (the I-6) makes peak HP around 3200 rpm, and
you're bogging in 4th going down to 1300rpm, DOWNSHIFT! You NEED to get it
back up toward 3000-ish to extract near the peak HP. I can see changing out
an axle ratio when you go to oversize tires, or if you want to increase the
creep of your creeper gear, or if the engine is *always* running just below
its powerband at common road speeds (like 65mph in 5th).
<'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's
Terry writes:>>Well, after 180K miles with my 97 Expedition (XLT, 4x2, 4.6L, 3.31LS), it
would seem that my 4R70W transmission is starting to go south. I'm
beginning to see a hesitation and slippage shifting out of overdrive,
especially when I'm only running about 45mph and lugging the 4.6L engine up
a small hill. I also had a failed shift from 3-->2 under heavy acceleration
(foot on the floor) a few days ago. The tranny fluid only has about 10K
miles on it, so it is nice and clean.<<
Before you tear into it and spend B I G bucks, why not have a diagnostics check
made by your local dealer(or someone you have confidence in) and see if you have
some bad sensors. If I'm not mistaken the 4R70W is an all electronic shift tranny,
and you could possibly just have some sensor problems. I know it is a slim
chance, but one I feel that is worth it in this case..
>>That being said, it's time for me to look into transmission
rebuilds/replacement. I could have an independant shop do the rebuild, but
I would rather have Ford put a brand new transmission in. Does anyone know
an approximate cost for a new (preferably not Ford-rebuilt) 4R70W? What is
the normal price range for a rebuild, Ford or otherwise?<<
I don't have a clue, but before I committed to any shop I would check out the
local salvage yard for a really low mileage tranny from a compatable vehicle.
They usually run half price of a new one from FOMOCO. I would venture to
say that a new tranny installed would be near 2 grand. Rebuild would be
$1500 plus if they remove/reinstall.
>>Final question... When the transmission gets rebuilt/replaced, I was
thinking about adding a shift kit to firm things up a little bit. Has
anyone done this to this transmission? If so, what does it take to install?
I would like to have whoever does the rebuild/replacement to add the shift
kit. Does anyone have suggestions as to brand and possible price range? Or,
is this ill-advised for my truck?<<
I'm not at all familiar with your truck/tranny, but I've had tremendously good luck
with the TransGo shift kits in other makes/models of trannys. You can get the
price of a rebuild kit and a shift kit(or any thing else transmission related) by
calling Transmart(a division of ATC) 1-800-633-3340. Free call and they will
bill your credit card for anything you purchase. I'm not affiliated in any way with
them but am an extremely satisfied customer with anything they sell except
torque converters. Do not buy their torque converters. A rebuild kit would be
less than $100 from them for your tranny.
>>I hope some of that makes sense =) If anyone has some information, tips,
etc., I would appreciate hearing from you.<<
The front brakes (disc) are pretty worn on my 92 F150 4x2 supercab (300
i-6). The rig has 90,000 miles on it.
I was planning to turn the rotors and replace the pads; should I do
anything else? Do I need to/should I rebuild the calipers, for
instance? Is there anything else in there I should plan on taking care
of? Some bearings, maybe?
Thanks for any advice.
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>The front brakes (disc) are pretty worn on my 92 F150 4x2 supercab (300
>i-6). The rig has 90,000 miles on it.
>I was planning to turn the rotors and replace the pads; should I do
>anything else? Do I need to/should I rebuild the calipers, for
>instance? Is there anything else in there I should plan on taking care
>of? Some bearings, maybe?
Bearings might not be a bad idea since you'll have to pull them anyway ... for
the caliper, check it over closely, if the boots aren't ripped and its in good
working order, I'd just be sure to lube the slides it sits on and probably put
it back together as is. If its leaking I'd replace it. Also check the hoses
carefully, they have an inner and outer liner, if the outer is cracked, replace
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