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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list perf-list); Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:59:23 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:59:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
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Reply-to: perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #47
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------------------------------------
perf-list Digest Mon, 17 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 047

In This Issue:
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time/Racing
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time
quarter mile times
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Racing part 1- LONG!
Racing part 2 - LONG
Confederate
Re: Quarter Mile Time
460 help
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: Quarter Mile Time
Re: 460 help
Re: Quarter Mile Time

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 14:53:46 -0400
From: Jean Marc Chartier sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

shane san miguel wrote:
>
> > run #3 (best)worst reaction
> > 1.2798 reaction
> > 2.4248 60ft
> > 6.7839 330ft
> > 10.4607 1/8
> > 66.68
> > 13.6915 1000et
> > 75.27 1000mph
> > 16.4551 1/4
> > 81.19 mph
>
Major Snip
> Put up or shut up, life begins in the beams!
>
> Shane
> 55 F100 5.0
> 15.51 87
> 289 Pinto
>

Here is mine;

1.158 reaction
2.247 60 ft
6.788 330 ft
10.640 1/8
62.93 mph
13.989 1000 et
75.27 1000 mph
16.831 1/4
79.66 mph

This was Saturday April 15th at Milan Mi. My truck is a
2000 F-150 SC 4x4 with 4.6 and 5 speed. Gears are 3.55:1
Tires are 255/70 R16 Wrangler RT/S. I have a Warn Winch
and draw tite Class III trailer hitch. With me and my son
the truck weighs 5200 lbs.
Mods are K&N with cut out air box, removed silencer in air
inlet Bored out throttle body to remove lip, polished
intake elbow and a Borla cat back.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

PS. it was my first time too. :-)

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:49:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time/Racing

>> > run #3 (best)worst reaction
>> > 16.4551 1/4
>> > 81.19 mph

>16.831 1/4
>79.66 mph
>

Wow, I G-tech'ed my truck this weekend too ... I learned I really gotta re-tune
it and try some 93 octane. I was a bit disappointed with my runs ... the best
I could pull was a 17.43 80.5 ... that's probably a little better than I would
do at the track, but it works out to only 180 rear wheel horse power :( I was
hoping for a bit better, though with the power hungry C6 and the transfer case
both sucking up some power, its probably 220 crank as it is. The big problem
is that the compression is so high I can't run the timing where it needs to
be for the cam, so we'll add some octane, re-tune the carb and see if I can
do a little better ...

The car on the otherhand did much better, though it was a 77.xx sec. run, it
was one of the fastest of the day, and it was probably a half mile or so that
I was racin on ... yes there were turns :)

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Racing/diary.html

from there you can find the info on the 16th's run of things, including my Skew
View and Rod's Journal to see a couple different views of the weekend. Mpg's
were made and everything. One of mine is how to run fast, the other is how
to save your butt and look cool but turn in a slow time (lots of sliding)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:02:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

In a message dated 4/15/00 7:37:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
canzus seanet.com writes:

<< One other thing, the ET clock starts running when the
light turns green. So these runs are fairly stout for a Truck.... >>
Steve,
I guess that my 14.40's are REALLY stout for a truck?

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:03:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

In a message dated 4/15/00 7:37:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
canzusseanet.com writes:

<< One other thing, the ET clock starts running when the
light turns green. So these runs are fairly stout for a Truck.... >>
Steve,
I guess that means that my 14.40's are REALLY stout for a truck? =)
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: canzusseanet.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 15:51:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

At 05:03 PM 17:04:2000 EDT, FLR150aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 4/15/00 7:37:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>canzusseanet.com writes:
>
><< One other thing, the ET clock starts running when the
> light turns green. So these runs are fairly stout for a Truck.... >>
>Steve,

>I guess that means that my 14.40's are REALLY stout for a truck? =)
>Wayne Foy

Depends on your reaction time...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: "Tom Ewing" napanet.net>
Subject: quarter mile times
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 16:56:00 -0700


I noticed on some recent posts that some people believe that the E.T.(elapsed time)
is calculated as a result of when the "light" turns green. I don't believe that is
correct. The elapsed time as I understand is calculated from the moment your
car moves from the starting line to the time it breaks the beam at the finish line.
When one stages their car they bring the front wheels in between a beam of light(actually
two seperate beams--the "prestage" beams, and the "staging" beams) and you stop and
wait for the green light. When you "move" (launch) you reunite the light beam and the
E.T. clock begins counting. When you "break" the beam of light by passing through it
at the finish line, the clock registers your E.T.. If you "reunite" the staging light beams
by either leaving too soon-"red lighting"- or accidentally rolling forward or for that
matter rolling backwards too--one also "red lights", and one gets no E.T. Your
opponent automatically wins. Therefore your opponent can get a lower E.T. meaning
that they covered the distance quicker, but if you left the line sooner than them--as long
as you didn't red light--in other words you have a "quicker reaction time" you can
still win the race. Drag racing is a combination of the faster car and the driver who
reacts quicker. The winner is not the quicker car--lower ET--but who crosses the
finish line first! Often of course the quicker car also crosses the finish line first,
but not necessarily. Its not always that way.


------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 21:38:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

In a message dated 4/17/00 6:51:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
canzusseanet.com writes:

<< Depends on your reaction time... >>
Well, lets see. On a .500 tree I have cut as well as a .500, once, but
average .560's. On a .400 tree (Pro) I have cut as good as a .450 a few
times, average around .536, not too bad I would say. On the 60Ft times I have
run a best of 1.99 , averaging in the 2.10 range. I bracket race for the FFW
series and compete at the local tracks for fun, and on the street for fun and
money. So, I guess I consider my self an "experienced" racer.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 21:01:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

That or you just keep slow company ;)

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.5187
289 Pinto

--- FLR150aol.com wrote:
> << One other thing, the ET clock starts running when
> the
> light turns green. So these runs are fairly stout
> for a Truck.... >>
> Steve,
> I guess that my 14.40's are REALLY stout for a
> truck?
>

__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 21:07:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

On a pro tree, in the Pinto, I have cut a .407 and
.408 but average .430's. On a .500 tree I average
.550's. My best on a .500 tree is .512

My 60ft's aren't even worth mentioning.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.5187
289 Pinto

--- FLR150aol.com wrote:
> << Depends on your reaction time... >>
> Well, lets see. On a .500 tree I have cut as well as
> a .500, once, but
> average .560's. On a .400 tree (Pro) I have cut as
> good as a .450 a few
> times, average around .536, not too bad I would say.
> On the 60Ft times I have
> run a best of 1.99 , averaging in the 2.10 range. I
> bracket race for the FFW
> series and compete at the local tracks for fun, and
> on the street for fun and
> money. So, I guess I consider my self an
> "experienced" racer.
> Later,
> Wayne Foy


__________________________________________________
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Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
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------------------------------

From: "Jones, Tracy" Cinergy.com>
Subject: Racing part 1- LONG!
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:33:55 -0400

Hey All,
I think everyone will find this interesting. It was written by the
current Pres. of the National Lightning Owners Club (credit where credit is
due). He has extensive bracket racing experience with his high 11 second
Lightning. Please snip if you reply to this! Enjoy :)

Tracy
Red '93 Lightning
N.L.O.C 279
14.84 90.35

-----Original Message-----
From: Sparkman, Jeffrey [mailto:Jeffrey.SparkmanJACOBS.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 9:47 AM
To: LIGHTNING-LAMERICAN.EDU
Subject: Racing - LONG!


WHOOO HOOOO! Something a know a little about... the following information
will assume you're racing at a NHRA track. Some tracks don't follow these
rules, but if you show up prepared to meet these criteria, you'll be OK to
race anywhere.

BTW, guys, if you wait until you see the yellow on the Pro Tree, your
reaction times will be reasonably lousy. The key to racing on a Pro Tree is
knowing how to anticipate the light and that's why I feel like it unfairly
benefits the slower truck in handicapped racing. If the slower truck's
driver knows how to cut the tree, he will clean up because he can
anticipate, but the faster truck has to wait on the flash. (Once I get the
hang of a timer, I can cut .4X lights on a Pro Tree)

First time at the track - you'll pay at the gate and they'll either issue
you a tech card there or point you to where you have to go for your card if
you tell then you'll be racing. You'll also have to sign a waiver. From
there, you fill out the tech card and get in line for tech inspection.
Someone will come around and check your truck for proper battery tie down
and give the tires and such a general once over. They'll ask for your
expected ET if you've never raced there before and do a more thorough
inspection the faster you go. If your truck runs 13.99 or faster, you'll
need a Snell 85 or newer helmet. If you run 12.99 or faster or if you run
slicks at any speed, you'll need a driveshaft loop. 1.99 or faster is a 5
point roll bar. If you run slicks you'll also need open style lug nuts that
allow the wheel lugs to extend through the nuts for the depth of the nut.

Ok, lets just assume you're running mid 15s. Make sure you're not leaking
coolant, your overflow bottle is hooked up and your battery is tied down.
No tank tops and no shorts. They'll write a number on one side window and
either the front or rear window, depending on the position of the tower.

From there, you pull into the staging lanes (or you pull to the side and
wait for your class to be called - ask the tech inspector for the track's
standard operating procedure). There will be a lot of experienced racers
around, so feel free to ask the questions. Also, ask the lanes workers and
other track staff members if you have any questions.

Once in the staging lanes, you'll wait for your class to start staging.
Stay close to your vehicle. Wandering off to the bathroom or to the
concessions stand while your vehicle is in the staging lanes is a no-no. As
the vehicles in front of you move up, follow them along.

Next up is where the fun starts. Wait outside of the water box (the area
where they wet the pavement and the cars do burnouts) until the lanes worker
motions you forward. Watch these guys all the time. Don't fiddle with the
radio or comb your hair or worry about styling. You're there to race. When
they motion you forward, drive your truck around the water if possible. If
you're running tires that need to be heated up, back into the water and roll
them over a little then roll forward. IF you're running street radials,
they don't need water and they don't need much heat. People doing smokey
burnouts on regular ol' radials are just wasting rubber and tearing up the
groove. Brake torque to get a little wheelspin to clean the tires off and
then roll out of the spin. That's easier on the transmission. Don't go
past the staging lights (usually there are marks on the track, but there
will also be a big, usually white, box in between the lanes with two holes
in it. That's where you stage.
[continued]


------------------------------

From: "Jones, Tracy" Cinergy.com>
Subject: Racing part 2 - LONG
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:36:48 -0400



-----Original Message-----
From: Sparkman, Jeffrey [mailto:Jeffrey.SparkmanJACOBS.COM]
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 10:04 AM
To: LIGHTNING-LAMERICAN.EDU
Subject: Racing - LONG


[Continued from previous]

Staging - Roll forward slowly until the TOP MOST light of the tree comes on.
That's "pre-stage." Most tracks have a "courtesy stage" rule that means you
light that light and then wait for the person in the other lane to do the
same. This prevents some of the mind games that get going when the racing
gets serious. Once the other vehicle has staged, roll forward slowly until
the second white light is lit. If you roll too far forward, go into reverse
and back all the way back through the lights and then pull forward again.
Make certain your last motion is always forward!! (Right, Harold??) You are
now staged. (For the sake of brevity, I will skip deep staging).Once the
other vehicle is staged, there will be a 1.5 second pause (assuming no
problems with the track) and then the yellow lights will begin to count down
in .5 second intervals (for a Sportsman tree - for a Pro tree all three
lights come on at once with a .4 second flash). When the bottom light is
all the way lit, launch. You may redlight your fist time around, but that's
OK. If you never redlight, you're not trying. For the next 200 ft or so
(obviously this depends on the vehicle's power) it's all about the driver.
Hooking the tires up, getting it rolling, getting it into second gear.
After that, it's pretty much the vehicle taking over and you're just keeping
it pointed straight. At the end of the track you'll see two "finish lines,"
stay on it until you're past the second one. The first one starts the
timers that measure your mph, the second one computes your ET and finishes
the mph calculation.

Get off the gas and onto the brakes. There will be "Return roads" down at
this end of the track. There are usually three, don't sweat which one to
use and NEVER EVER stop on the track. There could be an 8 second car
barreling down behind you. Typically, I'll run to the end if I'm in the
lane opposite from the turn off direction, and turn on the second road if
I'm in the same lane as the turn off direction.

Next stop, timing shack. There will be a little hut down at the "big end"
of the track on the return road somewhere. Stop there, roll down your
window, and grab your time slip. Get out of the way (back to the staging
lane, off to the pits, whatever) and then sort out your times. Also, if
you're racing a qualified class like Pro Lightning, you'll have to be
weighed after every pass. There will be scales on the return road as well.
Stop there for certification.

The time slip - First number is your reaction time - tells you how close you
were. This number doesn't factor into your ET, but will determine if you
win the race. .500 is perfect on a sportsman tree. Anything under a .6 is
decent. .400 is perfect on a Pro Tree. Anything under a .550 is decent.
Next number is your 60'. This basically tells you how well you launched.
Lots of wheel spin and your 60' time will be slow. Good stick and go and
it will be low. On a nearly stock truck, 2.1-2.3 is a good 60' time.

I guess I'll stop there. Everything else is reasonably self-explanatory.
Any questions on all of this babble, I'll be glad to attempt to answer them.
I don't pretend to know it all, but I race almost every weekend.

Later!
Jeff S.
#74 in '95
NLOC
12.03113.2


------------------------------

From: "Joel Thomas" prodigy.net>
Subject: Confederate
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:24:00 -0500


I hate it when I read stories about the blacks always trying to get the
confederate
memories and honors taken off of different statues and buildings.
If the NAACP knew that the Civil War was not totally fought about slavery
they would better understand, even blacks fought for the south because they
were treated VERY good. White people worked int eh fields right along side
them and most of the time ate with them too. It disgusts me that they wan't
all the flags and memoriabilia removed then want a day preserved to
celebrate Martin Luther King Jr. The Civil War changed history million times
over anything the black activists did. And also when they want to get repaid
for something their ancestors did (WORK) that they don't even do know, most
lower class blacks don't earn there money the hard they choose the easy way,
drugs,pimps,etc... Yes I know whites do too but we aren't complaining about
how the yanks treated us back in middle 1800's. People we have to move on
but fighting to get someone elses honor taking away then get you honor made
is NEVER gonna amount to anything, except another Civil War but the only
problem with that is no one cares about that anymore, and they should. We
have to fight to honor our ancestors and some of our great grandfathers that
fought to keep the south, and even though they lost the war, now they
realize how many poeple below the mason-dixie line still salute them and the
flag in honor for there courage and perseverance.

Joel Thomas
Little Rock,AR

in regards to story on MSNBC
Joe Davidson, Editor








------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:38:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

In a message dated 4/18/00 12:01:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
v8pintoyahoo.com writes:

<< That or you just keep slow company ;) >>
Shane,
Slow company? NAWWW. I have been hanging out with guys that have 13 second or
quicker Lightnings and Stangs. But being as my truck weighs 5202LBS with me
in it and running these times, I don't think I am doing too shabby AT ALL.
Later,
Wayne Foy
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck

------------------------------

From: "Jones, Tracy" Cinergy.com>
Subject: 460 help
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:47:55 -0400

Hey All,

I'm preparing for another 460 build and I'd like to start with the right
parts. I'm looking to spin the motor no more than ~6500 RPM.

What's the RPM limit of a 460 rotating assy. with 2YAB crank, C8VE-A rods w/
ARP bolts, TRW L2404F forged pistons? (balanced assy. of course)

What's the casting number for the stronger rods with the oval shaped bolt
heads and would it be worth buying new ones from Ford?

What's the overbore limit on a C8 block? And a D1 block?


Many Thanks
Tracy


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:10:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

Not too shabby at all.

My truck weighs 3,600 with me in it, ready to race.

What's the SC for? I'm not familiar with the model.

Shane
55 F100 5.0
15.5187
289 Pinto

--- FLR150aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/18/00 12:01:45 AM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> v8pintoyahoo.com writes:
>
> << That or you just keep slow company ;) >>
> Shane,
> Slow company? NAWWW. I have been hanging out with
> guys that have 13 second or
> quicker Lightnings and Stangs. But being as my truck
> weighs 5202LBS with me
> in it and running these times, I don't think I am
> doing too shabby AT ALL.
> Later,
> Wayne Foy
> 94 Flareside SC
> 1999 Fun Ford Weekend
> Racing series
> #2 Top Truck
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject
> of the
> message.
>
>

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------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 15:31:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

>What's the SC for? I'm not familiar with the model.
>
Super Cab ... I'm sure you've seen one ;)


Wayne's has a short "Flare side" bed on it too.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: Sleddog epix.net>
Subject: Re: 460 help
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 12:38:01 -0400

I have run 2 460's, to that limit with stock bottom ends. One, with ARP
bolts, one, without. The one with ARP bolts used the CJ rods (football
head), and I can't remember the other one. Neither one had an oil pressure
problem at that rpm.

Personally, I'd buy eagle rods, before getting new Ford parts. The price
is comparable, and the Eagle rods will be better. (Actually, i'd spend
more and get even better rods if I could afford it again.)

As for the overbore limit, get the blocks sonic tested before cutting
bores. That is the only way to know since it will be different on each
block. Some blocks can go .060 over, some more. Sometimes, there is
enough material, but the core shifted during casting. This sometimes can
be fixed by boring the cylinder off-center. Once again, only sonic testing
will tell you for sure.

Valve train parts, if properly chosen and assembled also can go to 6500
rpms no problem in a 460. Just for reference, my puller engine so far has
turned past 7000 on an offset ground cast iron crank, and I intend to push
it to over 8000. A friend of mine turned over 9000 with cast iron crank
(aluminum rods though, mine are steel.).

Kevin

----------
From: Jones, Tracy[SMTP:TracyJonescinergy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 11:47 AM
To: 'Performance List'
Subject: [perf-list] 460 help

Hey All,

I'm preparing for another 460 build and I'd like to start with the right
parts. I'm looking to spin the motor no more than ~6500 RPM.

What's the RPM limit of a 460 rotating assy. with 2YAB crank, C8VE-A rods
w/
ARP bolts, TRW L2404F forged pistons? (balanced assy. of course)

What's the casting number for the stronger rods with the oval shaped bolt
heads and would it be worth buying new ones from Ford?

What's the overbore limit on a C8 block? And a D1 block?


Many Thanks
Tracy







------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 12:59:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: shane san miguel yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Mile Time

Oh oh oh oh... ok.

I got it.



--- wish ford-trucks.net> wrote:
> >What's the SC for? I'm not familiar with the
> model.
> >
> Super Cab ... I'm sure you've seen one ;)
>
>
> Wayne's has a short "Flare side" bed on it too.
>
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> http://www.ford-trucks.com
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject
> of the
> message.
>
>

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------------------------------

End of perf-list Digest V2000 #47
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