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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list perf-list); Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:03:36 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:03:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: perf-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #25
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perf-list Digest Mon, 13 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 025

In This Issue:
302/C-6
Re: 302/C-6
Re: 302/C-6
Re: 302/C-6
Re: 302/C-6
ADMIN: Web based email is now working
Re: 302/C-6
400m artical - David Resch

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:32:25 -0800
From: able office machines ableofficemachines.com>
Subject: 302/C-6

Having spent 12+ hours under a bronco this weekend trying to install a
C-6 by myself.. I finely get it kind of on the mounting studs..
HOWEVER...
1. I have not even tried to get the transfer case on yet..
and
2. Need some advise..

There appears that once i but the transmission onto the mounting studs
and get it within 1/2 inch of installed.. ( if you are over 40 with a
past broken neck i do NOT recommend doing this by yourself...) I find a
REALLY nice steel guide pin in the block near the starter.. that aligns
really nice with another steel guide pin on the C-6.. my options
1. remove transmission again and remove the steel pin from the
transmission.. ( not a really favorite one here...)
2. sawzall with a long blade and cut the suckers off... ( it would have
to be in a BAD spot to reach right between two nice steel mounting
studs...)
3. It appears that the steel pin in the 302 block is in a hole in the
casting of the block that "may" go all the way threw.. can i possibly..
tighten down my mounting studs and push the steel guide pin forward back
threw the block or will the stress crack the bell housing in the
process..

I now see why one does NOT put a C-6 in a eb without a body lift....
(VERY close....)
what's really fun about this.. is after spending 3-4 weeks rebuilding
the C-6 and transfer case I have no clue if it will even run.....

phil



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 11:51:12 -0500
From: Bob Weaver home.com>
Subject: Re: 302/C-6

Good luck Phil!

Good to know I'm not alone in all I do (putting this together and not
sure it it works!)

Bob

>
> I now see why one does NOT put a C-6 in a eb without a body lift....
> (VERY close....)
> what's really fun about this.. is after spending 3-4 weeks rebuilding
> the C-6 and transfer case I have no clue if it will even run.....
>
> phil
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 302/C-6
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:49:14 PST

Phil,

I know what you have been through. I have recently and almost complete to
drive, put a 302/C4 in my Brocno II. It was not a fun project but
definitely one for someone who wants to make it look completely factory and
loves a good challenge. I, working with an aluminum bellhousing, would be
scared to press the steel out through the back side. Although it would be
much easier done properly. You would be much safer cutting the two off if
you can get to them. I have waited three years because of heavy work load
and such to get mine running. But the couple weeks i have left to finish it
is getting LONG. If you break the bellhousing you will be pulling it out
again anyway and cast does not hold up to much force at all.

Hope this helps you out.

>
>Having spent 12+ hours under a bronco this weekend trying to install a
>C-6 by myself.. I finely get it kind of on the mounting studs..
>HOWEVER...
>1. I have not even tried to get the transfer case on yet..
>and
>2. Need some advise..
>
>There appears that once i but the transmission onto the mounting studs
>and get it within 1/2 inch of installed.. ( if you are over 40 with a
>past broken neck i do NOT recommend doing this by yourself...) I find a
>REALLY nice steel guide pin in the block near the starter.. that aligns
>really nice with another steel guide pin on the C-6.. my options
>1. remove transmission again and remove the steel pin from the
>transmission.. ( not a really favorite one here...)
>2. sawzall with a long blade and cut the suckers off... ( it would have
>to be in a BAD spot to reach right between two nice steel mounting
>studs...)
>3. It appears that the steel pin in the 302 block is in a hole in the
>casting of the block that "may" go all the way threw.. can i possibly..
>tighten down my mounting studs and push the steel guide pin forward back
>threw the block or will the stress crack the bell housing in the
>process..
>
>I now see why one does NOT put a C-6 in a eb without a body lift....
>(VERY close....)
>what's really fun about this.. is after spending 3-4 weeks rebuilding
>the C-6 and transfer case I have no clue if it will even run.....
>
>phil


Bad Brian
Southeastern Electronics
kf4obc
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/pictures
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:51:13 -0800
From: able office machines ableofficemachines.com>
Subject: Re: 302/C-6

-- Unable to decode HTML file!! --


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:45:18 -0800
From: able office machines ableofficemachines.com>
Subject: Re: 302/C-6

old'77 wrote:

> Can't you take off the bell housing from the c-4 and install it on the c-6?
>

The C-6 transmission and bell housing is one unit... and its HUGE...
it Just fits under the body and thats after i removed the headers....
the NP-205 is next and that will require body cutting...
phil



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 02:01:52 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Web based email is now working

I finally worked out the kinks with the free Ford Truck
Enthusiasts web based email. Before I activate any
accounts, I ask that you visit the sign up page at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/nwmail/index.html

You don't need to fill in the form if you've previously
sent me an email requesting an account. If you don't
agree with the terms and conditions there, please let
me know by this weekend. The terms and conditions contain
mumbo-jumbo needed as a CYA for me, especially in this
crazy world. As with most ISP AUPs, its only there for
the occasional bad apple.

If you have not emailed me a request for web based email,
you can use the form to sign up for an account. I have
over 150 (no kidding!) accounts to activate and will
activate 10-20 per day over the next several days. When
your account is activated, you'll receive instructions.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

From: "david" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 302/C-6
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:10:05 -0000

Those pins are hardened steel,probably won't be able to cut it.You should be
able to pull it out with vise-grips.The pins aren't that long.Shouldn't have
to remove the trans,just move it back a little.If one won't come out,try the
other....dave
----- Original Message -----
From: able office machines ableofficemachines.com>
To: northwest.com>; ebml bronco. com >; ford truck e-ring
ford-trucks.com>; ford trucks ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 4:32 PM
Subject: [perf-list] 302/C-6


> Having spent 12+ hours under a bronco this weekend trying to install a
> C-6 by myself.. I finely get it kind of on the mounting studs..
> HOWEVER...
> 1. I have not even tried to get the transfer case on yet..
> and
> 2. Need some advise..
>
> There appears that once i but the transmission onto the mounting studs
> and get it within 1/2 inch of installed.. ( if you are over 40 with a
> past broken neck i do NOT recommend doing this by yourself...) I find a
> REALLY nice steel guide pin in the block near the starter.. that aligns
> really nice with another steel guide pin on the C-6.. my options
> 1. remove transmission again and remove the steel pin from the
> transmission.. ( not a really favorite one here...)
> 2. sawzall with a long blade and cut the suckers off... ( it would have
> to be in a BAD spot to reach right between two nice steel mounting
> studs...)
> 3. It appears that the steel pin in the 302 block is in a hole in the
> casting of the block that "may" go all the way threw.. can i possibly..
> tighten down my mounting studs and push the steel guide pin forward back
> threw the block or will the stress crack the bell housing in the
> process..
>
> I now see why one does NOT put a C-6 in a eb without a body lift....
> (VERY close....)
> what's really fun about this.. is after spending 3-4 weeks rebuilding
> the C-6 and transfer case I have no clue if it will even run.....
>
> phil
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tony Travers" picknowl.com.au>
Subject: 400m artical - David Resch
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 01:33:42 +1030



Read an article written by David Resch on 400 motor. A couple of questions,-

1. I have lots of experience with problems with Cleveland blocks punching through the cylinder wall when trying to bore .020 over standard. Also have had a couple crack between head bolt holes and water jackets. I've put this down to the age (last offered in Australia in 1980) with up to 30 years of rusty crud floating around originally thin cast cylinder walls.
The 400 being a different casting (Tall Block) is it any better?.

2. 400's a rare here in Australia, How do I identify the age - year of manufacture.

3. Are the cylinder heads the same in combustion chamber and port designs as 351c 2v. If the chamber is the same what size would they be 72cc??

Any reliable help would be appreciated

regards from Down Under

Tony Travers








------------------------------

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