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perf-list Digest Tue, 07 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 021

In This Issue:
Re: Radiators and V8s
Engine Temps
Ford Truck Kills
1985 302
Re: 1985 302
Re: Engine Temps

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 01:26:40 +0100 (MET)
From: Bas van der Veer dds.nl>
Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s


> > 195 may not be fully open until you're over 200-205 degrees. That
> > temperature at itself is fine for the engine, but it's awful close to the
> > boiling point, so if you turn the engine off it may boil with hot
> > weather.
>
> A good cooling system should build pressure, this means your boiling point
> should sky rocket well over the 212F that water boils at, heck you can buy
> 200 or 205deg thermostats if you look around a bit ... also a good idea to

My engine has gotton to around 230 w/o boiling.. but it gets there pretty
easy if it's 210 already and you turn it off.

> check a new thermostat. I've never done it ironically, but its a good idea.

Well I have a fairly accurate gauge, if the weather outside is OK it's
always exactly at 180. Actually the motor only gets hot if it's 90+ deg
outside and you're standing still. I just got a 7 blade fan from the
wrecking yard, see if it helps any. It seems the heat just gets trapped
under the hood when youre standing still, hood gets so hot you need a rag
to open it :(

I did get a heavy duty thermostat, has a little bit bigger hole. Maybe
someday get high flow waterpump. Though I think with the hood off the
problem would be solved.

> Actually I recently switched to using Robert Shaw thermostats, had really
> good luck with them, just got their "performance" version which uses 3
> braces and balances the flow .. I don't care about that, what I care about

> is that between a guy I know and myself we ran the same one for 3.5 years
> with no problems and it sat on a shelf for 2 between him runnin it and me

Yeah you said that with our last periodical heat-problems-discussion :)

> runnin it ... I bought a new one with the engine rebuild and have had no
> problems with it, there's a few degrees of difference between warm and cold
> weather but it still sits steady during normal use ... and its never
> overheated on me either :)

That's what I need, hey I was thinking if the US gets rid of all their
niuclear power plants I may be able to pick up one of their cooling towers
for a pretty good price :)

> > Another simple test that merely tells you whetehr you have a thermostat
> > at all is to drive in cold weather, the top of the radiator should be
> > blistering hot and the bottom shoul be cool. Also you can remove the cap
> > with the system completely cooled down. The fluid should not flow (therm
> > closed) and as the engine warms up it should almost instantly start
> > flowing.
> >
>
> Uhm, this could also be a plugged radiator that causes the hot/cold combo
> ... seems like someone said once what the temp gradient was supposed to be

Well the top should always be hot, because the fluid doesn't really cool
down, it's almost the same temp as when it came from the pump. There must
really be no flow at all for the top to stay cool - in which case you
wouldn't even be able to drive the vehicle at all.

> across a radiator, but remember these bii's are running cross flow's, not
> the down flow that the older trucks have, so its a bit different than top to
> bottom I think ...

Yeah it may be a bit tougher to see the fluid flow but the basic
principle is the same.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 22:11:45 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Engine Temps

Okay, so help me understand this. If I have a brand new NAPA stock
thermostat in there, and a VERY good radiator, everything will be fine?
The ....

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