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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list perf-list); Wed, 08 Mar 2000 20:58:33 -0500 (EST) Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 20:58:33 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: perf-list digest users Reply-to: perf-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #21 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Performance, Hot-Rod and Custom Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ perf-list Digest Tue, 07 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 021 In This Issue: Re: Radiators and V8s Engine Temps Ford Truck Kills 1985 302 Re: 1985 302 Re: Engine Temps ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 01:26:40 +0100 (MET) From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s > > 195 may not be fully open until you're over 200-205 degrees. That > > temperature at itself is fine for the engine, but it's awful close to the > > boiling point, so if you turn the engine off it may boil with hot > > weather. > > A good cooling system should build pressure, this means your boiling point > should sky rocket well over the 212F that water boils at, heck you can buy > 200 or 205deg thermostats if you look around a bit ... also a good idea to My engine has gotton to around 230 w/o boiling.. but it gets there pretty easy if it's 210 already and you turn it off. > check a new thermostat. I've never done it ironically, but its a good idea. Well I have a fairly accurate gauge, if the weather outside is OK it's always exactly at 180. Actually the motor only gets hot if it's 90+ deg outside and you're standing still. I just got a 7 blade fan from the wrecking yard, see if it helps any. It seems the heat just gets trapped under the hood when youre standing still, hood gets so hot you need a rag to open it :( I did get a heavy duty thermostat, has a little bit bigger hole. Maybe someday get high flow waterpump. Though I think with the hood off the problem would be solved. > Actually I recently switched to using Robert Shaw thermostats, had really > good luck with them, just got their "performance" version which uses 3 > braces and balances the flow .. I don't care about that, what I care about > is that between a guy I know and myself we ran the same one for 3.5 years > with no problems and it sat on a shelf for 2 between him runnin it and me Yeah you said that with our last periodical heat-problems-discussion :) > runnin it ... I bought a new one with the engine rebuild and have had no > problems with it, there's a few degrees of difference between warm and cold > weather but it still sits steady during normal use ... and its never > overheated on me either :) That's what I need, hey I was thinking if the US gets rid of all their niuclear power plants I may be able to pick up one of their cooling towers for a pretty good price :) > > Another simple test that merely tells you whetehr you have a thermostat > > at all is to drive in cold weather, the top of the radiator should be > > blistering hot and the bottom shoul be cool. Also you can remove the cap > > with the system completely cooled down. The fluid should not flow (therm > > closed) and as the engine warms up it should almost instantly start > > flowing. > > > > Uhm, this could also be a plugged radiator that causes the hot/cold combo > ... seems like someone said once what the temp gradient was supposed to be Well the top should always be hot, because the fluid doesn't really cool down, it's almost the same temp as when it came from the pump. There must really be no flow at all for the top to stay cool - in which case you wouldn't even be able to drive the vehicle at all. > across a radiator, but remember these bii's are running cross flow's, not > the down flow that the older trucks have, so its a bit different than top to > bottom I think ... Yeah it may be a bit tougher to see the fluid flow but the basic principle is the same. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 22:11:45 -0800 From: Adam McLaughlin Subject: Engine Temps Okay, so help me understand this. If I have a brand new NAPA stock thermostat in there, and a VERY good radiator, everything will be fine? The engine will run normally if I have a 180 degree thermostat, even if the water coming in from the radiator is maybe say 100 degrees F? This is alright? No problems if the temperatures differ by something like that? I have an electric fan on there now with a thermostat controlled switch. Works better than stock, but still alright. I am only worried that the water coming in from the cold radiator might be too cold for the engine, even if the thermostat is stock. Is this possible, or am I worrying about nothing? Adam > Actually, in a fuel injected engine, its a not a good idea to > run too low of a thermostat. The reason is because the engine > may, at many times, run too cool. This is true, and the reasons Ken uses are good ones, but the one that swayed me the most was that your computer won't kick out of "warm up" or its cold loop mode, which means your engine is not running at its best mixture which may hurt power, but will definitely hurt mileage and engine life ... running too rich all the time can cause the cylinder walls to be washed of their oil and scored pretty bad by the rings, also running a motor colder does cause the cylinders to wear faster anyway whether the mixture is too rich or not... My recommendation is to put a 180deg thermostat in there with a thermostatic control for the electric fan, and possibly a manual override switch so you can turn the fan on early if you know you're going to be workin the motor hard ... but that's just me .. Just my $.02 wish ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Ford Truck Kills Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 09:55:43 -0600 Hey I ran across this on the web ... http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rankinroad.com/03-05-00/UncleJessie-vs-BlackFirebird.mpg And I was wondering if anyone knows anything about the truck ... its obviously not stock ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "Vierra, William BGI SF" Subject: 1985 302 Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 14:05:40 -0800 Got a question about 1985 302's my reading indicates that all 302's produced from 1985 on had roller cams. I am being told that truck 302's did not get a roller cam until 1994. My understanding was that in 1985 all 302's got fuel injection and a roller cam and from that point on they were all basically high output motors. Thanks. ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: 1985 302 Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 16:38:33 -0600 > Got a question about 1985 302's my reading indicates that all > 302's produced > from 1985 on had roller cams. I am being told that truck 302's > did not get > a roller cam until 1994. > > My understanding was that in 1985 all 302's got fuel injection > and a roller > cam and from that point on they were all basically high output motors. > Close ... in 86 they all went fuel injected, in 85 the 5spd stangs were still carbbed ... and I think they may have been a roller block, in 86 the cars went to all FI across the board, and the roller block was standard as well (these were the wonderful swirl combustion heads and speed-density injection) ... The truck got FI in 87 when I think the rest of the cars and everyone became FI except for a couple ... and the roller cams were sometime in the 90's for the trucks ... some claim they actually ran roller blocks, but they didn't have roller cams in them, but I can't comment on that area of things as I've never torn into one ... at least not yet :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: Engine Temps Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 19:59:43 CST Adam, The whole purpose of the thermostat is to help bring the engine up to operatiing temperature as soon as possible. A 180 degree thermostat should not open until the water temperature reaches 180 degrees. Until the water reaches that temperature, the thermostat stays closed and the water does NOT circulate through the radiator. If you go out and start up your cold engine and take off the radiator cap, you should not notice any activity, because the water is not circulating. Once the thermostat opens, the water will start to circulate and you will see the movement. By the way, some radiators are so efficient that, with the thermostat removed the engine will NEVER reach proper operating temperature in winter. >> >Okay, so help me understand this. If I have a brand new NAPA stock >thermostat in there, and a VERY good radiator, everything will be fine? >The engine will run normally if I have a 180 degree thermostat, even if >the water coming in from the radiator is maybe say 100 degrees F? This >is alright? No problems if the temperatures differ by something like >that? > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ End of perf-list Digest V2000 #21 ********************************* ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts Performance, Hot-Rod and Custom Truck List Send posts to perf-list.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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