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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list perf-list); Tue, 07 Mar 2000 18:20:48 -0500 (EST) Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 18:20:48 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: perf-list digest users Reply-to: perf-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #20 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Performance, Hot-Rod and Custom Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ perf-list Digest Mon, 06 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 020 In This Issue: Re: Radiators and V8s C 6 Re: tranny question please help 302 exhaust--Bronco II Re: Radiators and V8s Rear Ends and Red Line Re: Radiators and V8s Re: Radiators and V8s Re: Radiators and V8s Re: 302 exhaust--Bronco II Re: please help Re: C6 Bellhousing Re: Radiators and V8s Re: Radiators and V8s Re: Radiators and V8s ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 11:33:30 -0600 > Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8? > I haven't, doesn't mean no one has ... > The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to > replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two > kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price > difference is about $55. > > Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be > 302-V8 friendly? > The tranny cooler is only necessary with an auto ... it wont' affect cooling capacity appreciably ... if you have an auto then you need the cooler, if you have a manual then you don't ... unless you want to rig it as an engine oil cooler which I've heard of people doing ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: C 6 Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 12:46:06 -0500 Paul R. writes: >>I have an opportunity to purchase a C6 tranny for my truck (mines been acting up for a while). The person wanting to sell the C6 said that it came off of a 400 modified??? Will this bellhousing and bolt pattern fit a 460??? I figured isntead of researching why not ask all of you.<< Yep ! ! ! It'll work. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: docster webtv.net (Delvis Teruel Jr Teruel) Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 11:45:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: tranny question the 351/400m have the same bolt patern as the 429/460. hope that helps. You could confirm this by calling a ford dealership or a tranny shop too. Lotsa love Da docster ------------------------------ From: "Joel Thomas" Subject: please help Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 22:45:30 -0600 I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 performer manifold and stock otherwise engine except mallory unilite and promaster coil my problem is pinging at 2500rpm and over with the secondaries opened i have messed with the metering on the carb and to no avail i was told that it was the vacuum advance so i turned to all the way and and it was the same i also turned it all the way in just to see and i pinged real bad from 1000rpm and up so i limped back home to readjust:) is there a kit i can buy to adjust the advance even more and am i on the right track???? it is the 47 series so i am told unilite distributor?? i don't have an advance timing light but can borrow to see what advace timing it is pulling. the guy at summit tech said it should be around 36 timing and 3200 rpm is that right ???? please help i am having problems with this. thanks Joel Thomas Little Rock,AR ------------------------------ From: "Bad Brian" Subject: 302 exhaust--Bronco II Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 21:43:50 PST Need some advice. Have a 302 in my 87 Bronco II with 2 flowmaster 2-1/2 mufflers. need a new exhaust sytem run from headers back. What should i do to it? I have heard H pipe, X pipe, and no cross pipe. It will be used as a well built daily driver. Here's what i have: 302 boroed .040 over TRW forged flatops A3B 2 valve heads (anyone know these heads valve size, OEM use) Edel 600 performer carb. edel perf. intake and cam stock crank and rods C-4 with shift kit I plan on hitting the track simply for tune and trial. but want this to be just a bad street truck. Edelbrock says to look for about 275 Hp and 310 torque before the tranny. Any ideas? ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 21:56:54 -0800 From: Adam McLaughlin Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s What if this works TOO well? If I get the larger radiator in there, will I sacrifice engine life by running it too cold? Is that possible? I am using an electric fan. The only temperature guage that I have is the stock one. We all know that stock guages aren't the best.. If I don't have any room to mount a temperature guage, what could I do to make certain that I am not hurting my engine? Adam "William S. Hart" wrote: > > Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8? > > > I haven't, doesn't mean no one has ... > > > The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to > > replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two > > kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price > > difference is about $55. > > > > Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be > > 302-V8 friendly? > > > > The tranny cooler is only necessary with an auto ... it wont' affect cooling > capacity appreciably ... if you have an auto then you need the cooler, if > you have a manual then you don't ... unless you want to rig it as an engine > oil cooler which I've heard of people doing ... > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L > 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 22:08:00 -0800 From: Adam McLaughlin Subject: Rear Ends and Red Line When a new engine is broken in, you usually run it for 2500 or so miles on conventional oil before you switch it over to synthetic. I just got my rear end re-geared, and now I want to drain the conventional and put in Red Line gear oil. Does anyone know how many miles I need to drive before I can do this swap? Adam ------------------------------ From: "Bad Brian" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 22:09:26 PST someone correct me if i am wrong. First of all i ran a 160 and 195 temp. thermostat in mine and they both ran fine. i dont think you have to worry about the temp running too low. but others may have had different experiences. never had any overcooling problems. i think i ran the 160 in there the longest. i got 250 K out of it with the motor still like new when sold >What if this works TOO well? > >If I get the larger radiator in there, will I sacrifice engine life by >running >it too cold? Is that possible? I am using an electric fan. > >The only temperature guage that I have is the stock one. We all know that >stock >guages aren't the best.. If I don't have any room to mount a temperature >guage, >what could I do to make certain that I am not hurting my engine? > >Adam > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 08:15:45 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s At 10:09 PM 3/6/00 -0800, you wrote: >someone correct me if i am wrong. First of all i ran a 160 and 195 temp. thermostat in mine and they both ran fine. i dont think you have to worry about the temp running too low. but others may have had different experiences. never had any overcooling problems. i think i ran the 160 in there the longest. i got 250 K out of it with the motor still like new when sold Actually, in a fuel injected engine, its a not a good idea to run too low of a thermostat. The reason is because the engine may, at many times, run too cool. This causes it to run rich, which not only is bad for the environment, but also can cause failed emissions testing. Depending on your emissions test, it may or may not effect the outcome, but certainly does effect the air quality. Now, if you're off-road only, then its not a problem..... ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:18:58 -0600 > Actually, in a fuel injected engine, its a not a good idea to > run too low of a thermostat. The reason is because the engine > may, at many times, run too cool. This is true, and the reasons Ken uses are good ones, but the one that swayed me the most was that your computer won't kick out of "warm up" or its cold loop mode, which means your engine is not running at its best mixture which may hurt power, but will definitely hurt mileage and engine life ... running too rich all the time can cause the cylinder walls to be washed of their oil and scored pretty bad by the rings, also running a motor colder does cause the cylinders to wear faster anyway whether the mixture is too rich or not... My recommendation is to put a 180deg thermostat in there with a thermostatic control for the electric fan, and possibly a manual override switch so you can turn the fan on early if you know you're going to be workin the motor hard ... but that's just me .. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: 302 exhaust--Bronco II Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:22:42 -0600 > Any ideas? > Run the H or X whichever suits your fancy ... it'll help you out with your low end torque and such ... wow this is the third thread I've seen on the various boards about this, basically it comes down to low end torque is what they all pretty much decided, you can match the pulses and such with an appropriately placed X or H ... on the street I'm not sure there's much difference in the effectiveness of an H vs. an X, but I haven't seen any discussions on this yet, lots of people like the sound of the X better at high revs, but its all a matter of personal taste I'm sure ... I'm leaning towards an X on my truck, some Sanderson block hugger headers to an x-pipe and a full exhaust that runs in the same fashion as the gen.1 Lightnings which is an over/under instead of side to side dual system ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: please help Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:24:30 -0600 > I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 > performer manifold > and stock otherwise engine > What year ? If it had EGR and you removed it I'll bet your mixture just isn't quite right yet ... also what base timing are you running ? are you setting it with the vaccuum advance disconnected ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "david" Subject: Re: C6 Bellhousing Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:40:16 -0000 yes ----- Original Message ----- From: OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell To: ford-trucks.com> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 4:51 PM Subject: [perf-list] C6 Bellhousing > Hi All, > I have an opportunity to purchase a C6 tranny for my truck (mines been > acting up for a while). The person wanting to sell the C6 said that it came > off of a 400 modified??? Will this bellhousing and bolt pattern fit a 460??? > I figured isntead of researching why not ask all of you. > Thanks for any help. > > Paul Rozell > 65 F100 460 C6 > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 17:48:19 +0100 (MET) From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s > What if this works TOO well? > > If I get the larger radiator in there, will I sacrifice engine life by running > it too cold? Is that possible? I am using an electric fan. That's why you have a thermostat! It should be on the water pump, meshed between the WP housing and the little metal tube the rad hose slides over. You can usually buy 160, 180, 195 deg. But my personal experience is that they're not very accurate, and don' open instantly either. eg a 195 may not be fully open until you're over 200-205 degrees. That temperature at itself is fine for the engine, but it's awful close to the boiling point, so if you turn the engine off it may boil with hot weather. That's why I use 180 instead. I wouldn't recommend running any lower; I have seen a chart with engine wear compared to coolant temp. 200 deg was around the best, 180 was worse but not nearly as bad as 160. It really increased exponentially with droppig temps. > > The only temperature guage that I have is the stock one. We all know that stock > guages aren't the best.. If I don't have any room to mount a temperature guage, > what could I do to make certain that I am not hurting my engine? I suppose you could temporarily hook up a mechanical gauge, but they can be quite a PITA to install. On my 351M the sensor is behind the alternator bracket. You could use a T and hook up both, then mount the mechanical somewhere under the hood. You can then keep an eye on both and calibrate the stock gauge :) Another simple test that merely tells you whetehr you have a thermostat at all is to drive in cold weather, the top of the radiator should be blistering hot and the bottom shoul be cool. Also you can remove the cap with the system completely cooled down. The fluid should not flow (therm closed) and as the engine warms up it should almost instantly start flowing. The transmission does not have a thermostat, still haven't found out whether it can be damaged by overcooling. I have a big tranny cooler because I go four wheeling and from time to time haul 6000lb trailers, but while normal driving the transm oil pan is so cool it feels nice to the touch. It doesn't seem to behave any different than it used to, so I suppose it is fine. ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 11:11:40 -0600 > a > 195 may not be fully open until you're over 200-205 degrees. That > temperature at itself is fine for the engine, but it's awful close to the > boiling point, so if you turn the engine off it may boil with hot > weather. A good cooling system should build pressure, this means your boiling point should sky rocket well over the 212F that water boils at, heck you can buy 200 or 205deg thermostats if you look around a bit ... also a good idea to check a new thermostat. I've never done it ironically, but its a good idea. Actually I recently switched to using Robert Shaw thermostats, had really good luck with them, just got their "performance" version which uses 3 braces and balances the flow .. I don't care about that, what I care about is that between a guy I know and myself we ran the same one for 3.5 years with no problems and it sat on a shelf for 2 between him runnin it and me runnin it ... I bought a new one with the engine rebuild and have had no problems with it, there's a few degrees of difference between warm and cold weather but it still sits steady during normal use ... and its never overheated on me either :) > Another simple test that merely tells you whetehr you have a thermostat > at all is to drive in cold weather, the top of the radiator should be > blistering hot and the bottom shoul be cool. Also you can remove the cap > with the system completely cooled down. The fluid should not flow (therm > closed) and as the engine warms up it should almost instantly start > flowing. > Uhm, this could also be a plugged radiator that causes the hot/cold combo ... seems like someone said once what the temp gradient was supposed to be across a radiator, but remember these bii's are running cross flow's, not the down flow that the older trucks have, so its a bit different than top to bottom I think ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 17:21:03 CST >If I get the larger radiator in there, will I sacrifice engine life by |
