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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list perf-list); Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:42:40 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:42:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: perf-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: perf-list Digest V2000 #15
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perf-list Digest Tue, 29 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 015

In This Issue:
cast valve covers
Re: cast valve covers
Re: cast valve covers
p/s pump
smog pump shorter belt
Re: cast valve covers
Re: smog pump shorter belt
Re: cast valve covers
valve covers again
Re: valve covers again
Fuel Lines
Re: Fuel Lines
Re: smog pump shorter belt

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:59:40 -0800
From: eltopo fnord.nwinfo.net (Kenneth J. Toop)
Subject: cast valve covers

I'd like to clean up the cast aluminum valve covers on the Mustang engine
in my '57 F-100. Has anyone had experience with these? I've seen some in
magazines that are polished almost to the point of appearing to be chrome.
I'm not too worried about that level of perfection, but I would like to get
rid of some of the corrosion and discoloration. With the new Edelbrock
carb things must change. Is media-blasting the way to go?

Kennth Toop (Alias: "el Topo")
Head Librarian, Barge--Lincoln Elementary School

219 East "I" St., Yakima, Wa. 98901
Assisting Librarian, McClure Elementary School
Phone and Voicemail: 573-5207
Yakima School District


"Lo bueno, si breve, mejor."



------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: cast valve covers
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:12:04 -0600


> Is media-blasting the way to go?
>

How bad off are they ? I'd probably just start with an SOS pad or some
steel wool ... likely media blasting will work, but you'll need to
re-clearcoat them (if they had one) when its done to be sure they don't
corrode right away again ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" pge.com>
Subject: Re: cast valve covers
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:34:51 -0800

Ken, If you don't want to go the polish route one option is to have them
coated with one of the ceramic coatings. Did it on my aluminum intake and I
am very happy with it. Vitually no maintenance. A little different shine
and color than polished aluminum.

Dennis
55F100

> ----------
> From: eltopo fnord.nwinfo.net[SMTP:eltopo fnord.nwinfo.net]
> Reply To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 11:59 AM
> To: perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [perf-list] cast valve covers
>
> I'd like to clean up the cast aluminum valve covers on the Mustang engine
> in my '57 F-100. Has anyone had experience with these? I've seen some in
> magazines that are polished almost to the point of appearing to be chrome.
> I'm not too worried about that level of perfection, but I would like to
> get
> rid of some of the corrosion and discoloration. With the new Edelbrock
> carb things must change. Is media-blasting the way to go?
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: p/s pump
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:41:52 -0500

Paul, that is a "saginaw" GM type pump.
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: smog pump shorter belt
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:43:58 -0500

That magazine article is wrong, you will need either the a/c compressor or
the p/s pump beacause you need something on that side of the motor for the
belt to go to. It just won't work otherwise.
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: cast valve covers
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 17:35:32 -0800


>
> I'd like to clean up the cast aluminum valve covers on the
> Mustang engine
> in my '57 F-100. Has anyone had experience with these? I've
> seen some in
> magazines that are polished almost to the point of appearing
> to be chrome.
> I'm not too worried about that level of perfection, but I
> would like to get
> rid of some of the corrosion and discoloration. With the new
> Edelbrock
> carb things must change. Is media-blasting the way to go?
>

I don't have experience with these covers or with polishing. That said,
what do you need to "clean up" on them. If they are simply greasy brake
cleaner has always worked well for me. I don't know if it will react with
the aluminum at all. Media blasting will not polish the surface. In fact I
believe it will 'rough' it up more. Ok if you want a dull finish.

Ok now here's my best advice: If you want to polish them check out this
month's issue of Popular Hot Rodding. They have an indepth article on
polishing tecniques and supplies. After reading the article it looks like
the process is not at all difficult and mostly having the proper tools and
practicing with them.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: smog pump shorter belt
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:54:02 CST


>That magazine article is wrong, you will need either the a/c compressor or
>the p/s pump beacause you need something on that side of the motor for the
>belt to go to. It just won't work otherwise.

If you read the post again, the belts listed were for A/C equipped cars and
eliminated the smog pump and P/S pump. Deleting the A/C also requires a
much shorter belt, which goes around the water pump pulley, the crank
pulley, and the alternator pulley. You don't need anything on the other
side of the engine, but it's going to be mighty uncomfortable to drive, at
least for more than 1/4 mile at a time!

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: cast valve covers
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:04:57 CST

Ken,

If you are primarily concerned with removing corrosion, bead blasting may
be an option. If you are more "hands on" and like the polished finish, you
may be better off in the long run to polish the valve covers yourself. You
can start with relatively fine grit sandpaper (600 grit) until you remove
scratches or corrosion which has pitted the metal. NOTE! If you do use
sandpaper or like abrasive, you should lubricate the metal surface HEAVILY
with something like WD-40! If you don't the paper will just clog up. Once
the surface scratches, etc., are down to the 600 grit stage, you can either
move on to a finer grit (maybe try some of the synthetic steel wool like
Scotchbrite), or move on to a regular buffing wheel. They aren't that
expensive if you have a grinding wheel, and are not too difficult to use.
Just take one grit at a time, and continue until YOU are satisfied with the
finish.

>I'd like to clean up the cast aluminum valve covers on the Mustang engine
>in my '57 F-100. Is media-blasting the way to go?
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:26:39 -0800
From: Ken Toop fnord.nwinfo.net>
Subject: valve covers again

Thanks, Tom! I'll see if I can find a copy. There's a lot of scuffing and
spotting on the valve covers like from corosion. I've even considered
painting them to match the engine color, leaving just the bare tops of the
ribs exposed. I may just try the solvent route and be done with it. They
won't stay pretty long out our way.



------------------------------

From: "david" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: valve covers again
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:26:00 -0000

If they are on a daily driver,like you said,paint them,and sand the fin
tops.......dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Toop fnord.nwinfo.net>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 2:26 AM
Subject: [perf-list] valve covers again


> Thanks, Tom! I'll see if I can find a copy. There's a lot of scuffing
and
> spotting on the valve covers like from corosion. I've even considered
> painting them to match the engine color, leaving just the bare tops of the
> ribs exposed. I may just try the solvent route and be done with it. They
> won't stay pretty long out our way.
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the body of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "ALLEN COLLINS" <7X30WATERS prodigy.net>
Subject: Fuel Lines
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 08:48:25 -0600

I have a 1986 F-150 that has an older 302 engine with a carb in it. I have
access to a EFI unit that I would like to install. The hard plastic high
pressure fuel lines from the factory have been butchered from the swap over
(I bought the truck this way) and I am looking for a good (cheap) source for
high pressure fuel lines. I noticed that Edlebrock had some type of hose on
one of the shade tree mechanic shows, but not sure what it is. Can I get
this fuel line from the dealership? I have tried aftermarket and parts
stores and all they want to sell me is braided line. Looks great and is
very functional but expensive.

Any suggestions? With the price of gas sure would like to make the switch
to EFI.

Thanks in advance

Allen
Lubbock TX


------------------------------

From: Sleddog epix.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Lines
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:42:14 -0500

Look into aluminum/steel tubing. Summit sells 25 feet of 5/16" steel line
for under $20, nice anodized Russel aluminum line is a few dollars more.
Also get correct for the application mounts, so you don't vibrate a hole
in the tube against the frame or something like that. The steel is a
better choice for a non-race vehicle IMHO, as it will not fatigue crack
under normal use.

For the sections of line, that need to be flexable try Flex-Lock hose
(Russel, i think). These lines are about 2/3 the cost of stainless braided
lines. They do not have any braiding, but usually come in blue or red or
such color.

The big cost, as I found out when I did my fuel system from tank to carb,
was the fittings. I am redoing it now, putting -8 AN lines from regulater
to carb, and putting on a dominator, and a second fuel pressure gauge. I
am reusing old lines and fittings as much as possible, but still the $$$
adds up fast.

If these options are too pricey, try the junk yard. Edelbroke has a
website, check it out and maybe the lines you saw are on there. But I warn
you - if they said it was affordable on TV, i doubt it is. They seem to
have (Hot Rod TV and such shows and magazines) a distorted view of what
people can really afford.

Kevin

----------
From: ALLEN COLLINS[SMTP:7X30WATERS PRODIGY.NET]
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 9:48 AM
To: Perf-List Ford-Trucks.Com; listar ford-trucks.com
Subject: [perf-list] Fuel Lines

I have a 1986 F-150 that has an older 302 engine with a carb in it. I have
access to a EFI unit that I would like to install. The hard plastic high
pressure fuel lines from the factory have been butchered from the swap over
(I bought the truck this way) and I am looking for a good (cheap) source
for
high pressure fuel lines. I noticed that Edlebrock had some type of hose
on
one of the shade tree mechanic shows, but not sure what it is. Can I get
this fuel line from the dealership? I have tried aftermarket and parts
stores and all they want to sell me is braided line. Looks great and is
very functional but expensive.

Any suggestions? With the price of gas sure would like to make the switch
to EFI.

Thanks in advance

Allen
Lubbock TX

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe perf-list" in the body of the
message.





------------------------------

From: yl dds.nl
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 22:16:18 +0330 (GMT+03:30)
Subject: Re: smog pump shorter belt



>eliminated the smog pump and P/S pump. Deleting the A/C also requires a
>much shorter belt, which goes around the water pump pulley, the crank
>pulley, and the alternator pulley. You don't need anything on the other
>side of the engine, but it's going to be mighty uncomfortable to drive,
at
>least for more than 1/4 mile at a time!

My idea, you must be really desparate for power if you do that! Plus its
going to be tough racing without power steering. When my ps box broke last
year I had to do without power to the left for a week.. man did I grow
some muscles :-)



....


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