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------------------------------

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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 153

Today's Topics:

Re: Advance curves? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Survey [Keith Srb ]
Re: 1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts [Don Grossman ]
Various [AM14 chrysler.com ]
Re: Ammeter ["George Shepherd"
Re: Ammeter [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
76 Pickup Wiring diagram [Tom Hogan
Re: FE [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: Engine Idenification [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: 1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: Engine Idenification ["George Shepherd"
Re: C6 trans shift arm ["George Shepherd"
Re: Ammeter ["George Shepherd"
Re: 76 Pickup Wiring diagram ["George Shepherd"
Re: Ammeter ["George Shepherd"
Re: Re: Different Gague Question [MadPoodle aol.com ]


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 16:49:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Advance curves?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 17:17:30 -0500
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: Re: Advance curves?

> as you open the throttle plates. Manifold is for the emission crap
> to reduce emissions. They have high advance at idle so the engine
> runs smooth at idle, then the advance drops off at higher loads to
> prevent harmful emissions.

I'm beginning to realize I don't know as much about all this as I
once though! :-( In my experience, if the vac doesn't work the
vehicle is almost undrivable due to spark knock.

The reason I understand the vac retards the spark is to prevent this.
Again as I understand it, due to enrichening of the mixture under
accelleration along with higher manifold pressure allowing better
filling and thus higher volumetric efficiency and higher cylinder
pressures less advance is required but I could be wrong.

At idle you have almost pure air (lean) so more advance is required
to keep the engine running smoothly. At cruise you also have a
leaner mixture, lower cylinder pressures and lower volumetric
efficiency requireing more advance again but not quite as much as at
idle since there is some load and the throttle plate is partly open.
If you check the timing at various speeds and loadings you will find
manifold vac systems have about 40 degrees at idle and also at cruise
while under accelleration they have considerably less at any speed.
The engines I'm familiar with use manifold vacuum. At some point
various types of ported or timed vacs were used including the dual
port versions which I don't know anything about but when I put a
vacuum gauge on my ported vac I had similar rise and fall of the
vacuum under similar conditions, just not quite at the same rev
points and the total vacuum was about half of manifold at best.

I will agree that if your system is designed for ported vac it will
require a different vac with different spring preload to operate
correctly and visa vera so if you run it on manifold it's response
will not be correct for conditions and EGR systems require a
different calibration than non EGR's for best operation due to the
way it affects the mixture under various conditions.

I don't pretend to know all the nuances racers run into with their
extreme operating conditions but these principles generally apply to
daily driver/touring/street/cruiser situations as far as I know. I
realize the cam and usage have a lot to do with the exact application
of these principles and can't say I know exactly how it all works
together with radical cams and such but I'm interested in any new
insight on this if anyone cares to share it :-)

Something I discovered in my quest for performance AND economy while
trying to reinvent the timing curve (which is a curve by the way) is
that it aint all that easy to improve on the factory curve for stock
engines :-( Using a distributor machine and rear wheel dyno I spent
many fruitless hours trying to get the flat spot out of my transition
point and pick up some top end power all to no avail. I had no specs
to guide me in this except the factory curve and eventually wound up
going to a junk yard for a new, undisturbed distributor to restore
the curve. You don't learn this stuff in one or two days! But it
was fun and enlightening in any case. The combination of 15 or so
different springs and almost infinite tab positions is mind boggling
to contemplate so without some kind of characteristics chart on the
springs etc. it's almost impossible to calculate what it's going to
do IMHO.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:01:39 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: Survey
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sounds good to me. Go for it!


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From:Ken Payne [SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent:Tuesday, August 12, 1997 6:23 PM
To:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject:Re: Intro letter

At 08:37 AM 8/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>This is a test. This is only a test. If this were an actual message, it
>would show at least a little intelligence. I just signed onto FORDTRUCKS
>and I wanted to let everyone know I'm here. I come from a long line of
>FOMOCO drivers and I'm helping my 16 year old son restore his first car, a
>65 Falcon convertible. I am working on my own 63 Econoline PU. Are there
>any other Econoliners out there??? I'm in Baldwin, IL., just 45 miles SSE
>of St. Louis. Does anyone know what happened to the Econo Club? One day I
>was a member, the next day they disappeared. Happy motoring
>

I know we have several Econoliners or at least we did during our last
survey. What does everyone here think of doing another survey? I
now have a web page password protection CGI script working so we can
make it completely private and put the results on the web page with
email addresses too. All address would be protected, only list members
could get to them and I would put an option on the survey form to leave
your address off.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:57:08 -0700
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Brian Koss wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of returning my 1966 f100 4x4 truck to stock conditon
> and want to replace the 351w with a 390 (looks like a 352) for more torque.
> I am looking for stock frame to motor mount brackets. MacDonalds Obsolete
> has the right side but I cannot find a left. Does anybody know if the
> brackets are mirror images? Has anybody seen one recently in a juck yard?
>
> Brian
> 66 F100 4x4
> 68 Must 428CJ

I don't believe that the engine is offset at all so the mounts should
be real close to looking the same. I have a friend who has a 66 with
the 352 and I'll take a peek at it in the morning. There shouldn't be
much difference between the 2x and the 4x engine mounts. The chassis
should be high enough to clear the front axle.

Brian, eMail me on the side with some specs on the truck and your
location.

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 97 18:07:02 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
To: "FOMOCO Truck B/S list"
Subject: Various
Message-ID:

I'm on Digest, so I get only one (1) message/day, but I have some experience
with some of the questions, so, here goes:

Harmonic balancer for 352: All FE's except the 410/428 are balanced the
same, so any later vibration damper from 360/390 would give you what you
are looking for.

Front radiator mount: '73 thru '79 are all interchangeable, and the '76 and
up carried galvanized inner fenders.

NP203 removal: This is a maybe - not for sure cause its been a long time.
Seems there was AT LEAST one bolt that came into the transfercase from the
transmission side - reverse from most of the bolts that came into the trnny
from the transfercase side.
428 vibration: Maybe someone before you has installed the vibration damper
from one of the other FE engines. Only the 410/428 will work on your
428.

Hope this helps you guys out.

good luck.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 17:17:31 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Cc:
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tom,

One of Ford's weaker points on the dash was the ammeter. I never took one
apart, but few I have seen or owned worked. Maybe they can be repaired, but
I never tried or cared. I used a battery Hydrometer until I could get any
but sealed batteries, then I ordered a battery tester from Harbor Freigth.

George Shepherd


----------
> From: Tom Hogan
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Ammeter
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 1:46 PM
>
> >Greetings,
> >My name is Tom Hogan and I have just joined this forum. I have read
> >some of the archives and the discussion has been really informative. I
> >look forward to participating in future discussions.
> >
> >That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 - 79
> >pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76 pickups
> >and neither of them had a working ammeter. I have talked to several
> >friends here and they all agree. The shop manual says the easiest way
> >to test it is to turn on the headlights with the engine off. The needle
> >should deflect to the "D" side.
> >The only time I have ever seent the ammeter work was in the movie "Close
> >Encounters" when the alien ship was hovering over Richard Dryfus's
> >truck. Proof that the ammeters operation is fiction? Maybe...
> >
> >Regards
> >Tom Hogan
> >76 F-150 Super Cab
> >97 Windstar
> >
> >--- end forwarded text
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > L.O.F. Communications sales lofcom.com
> > Check Out Charlie's News Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/news/
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:21:44 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>>Greetings,
>>My name is Tom Hogan and I have just joined this forum. I have read
>>some of the archives and the discussion has been really informative. I
>>look forward to participating in future discussions.
>>
>>That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 - 79
>>pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76 pickups
>>and neither of them had a working ammeter. I have talked to several
>>friends here and they all agree. The shop manual says the easiest way
>>to test it is to turn on the headlights with the engine off. The needle
>>should deflect to the "D" side.
>>The only time I have ever seent the ammeter work was in the movie "Close
>>Encounters" when the alien ship was hovering over Richard Dryfus's
>>truck. Proof that the ammeters operation is fiction? Maybe...
>>
>>Regards
>>Tom Hogan
>>76 F-150 Super Cab
>>97 Windstar
>>

Tom, that's a great question. I've never seen mine run either. I have a 71
f250 and I'd like to fix the ammeter but have no idea how. My other
instruments work fine, only the ammeter is not working.

Is the ammeter in Ford pickus a shunt, or does it take the whole current?
Also, I was gonna buy an aftermarket ammeter (Auto Meter) but the catalog
said don't use with over 60-amp ammeters, and mine's an 80 or something
bigger like that (two belts, used to drive an inverter for power tools, too
bad the inverter's gone). Will my alternator melt down my stock ammeter, or
perhaps has it already?

All help greatly appreciated,


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:29:53 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
To: "'FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com'"
Subject: 76 Pickup Wiring diagram
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have a 1976 factory wiring diagram for a F-150 pickup. I
have a super cab with a 390 FE and air conditioning. I was able to get
all the factory manuals from Helm publishing but the wiring diagram is
out of print. :~( If anyone has one they would copy or sell to me I
would appreciate it.

Thanks
Tom H.
1976 F-150 Super Cab 390FE
!997 Windstar 3.8L (wife's hot rod).

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:47:58 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>OK, I give, I've been hoping to figure it out by post context but have
>not. What does FE stand for?


FE stands for "Ford Edsel".

The FE block was first used in the Edsel, with a whopping displacement
of 332cid.

The FE family comes in a metric shitload of sizes including:

332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and the awesome 427 cammer.

You may also include the 361 and 391 FT motors (Ford Truck)

Ford FE's were produced from 1958-1976.

The king is dead.. long live the king!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:48:02 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Engine Idenification
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> I need some help with identification of the engine in a 1975 F250 I
>recently bought. Good truck, well built but I'm still a little green on
>Ford design. Its a FE engine but how does one tell a 390, 360, etc. from
>each other without a teardown and measuring bore, stroke, etc. Anyplace a
>VIN number was permanently affixed to the block besides the valve cover tag?
>Any external clues I can look for?

Not really. The 360 and 390 blocks are externally identical, except
for a few variations of 390 blocks that have "telltale" features.
Block #'s (when they exist at all) don't help.
The only reliable way I know to tell is to measure the stroke.
This can be done thru a spark plug hole with a piece of stiff wire
easily enough.
360 = 3.50"
390 = 3.78"
Ask if You'd like details...

> Can someone give a point of contact where I can get ford VIN info
>and what the truck was factory equipped with?

Some people on the list have been getting "build sheets" out of Ford,
but I haven't tried it. (I'm already intimately familiar with My truck)
I'm sure some other listmembers have the address.

>VIN......F25MCW45194

The door tag on my '71 gave HP RPM for the motor. That would help
identify 360 or 390...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:48:04 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I'm in the process of returning my 1966 f100 4x4 truck to stock conditon
>and want to replace the 351w with a 390 (looks like a 352) for more torque.
>I am looking for stock frame to motor mount brackets. MacDonalds Obsolete
>has the right side but I cannot find a left. Does anybody know if the
>brackets are mirror images?

Dunno about 1966, but my '71 F100 (2WD) has a FE390 and the brackets
are not the same. The one on the left (drivers) side is larger than
the right side, because the motor is offset a couple inches to the
right of the vehicle centerline.

>Has anybody seen one recently in a juck yard?

Err, haven't looked, but I'll bet the wreckers is full of them.

FWIW, on my '71 the supports were the same for FE390 as for the
origional 240cid 6cyl...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 17:56:30 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Cc:
Subject: Re: Engine Idenification
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Paul,
I can't decode the engine type from the sn you listed, it does not seem to
follow Ford's scheme.

Fords should look like OE51N100001

O is the year model code--O is 1970, T should be 75 (not sure thats right)
E is the Assembly plant code
51 is the body serial code
N is the engine code
100001 is the consecutive unit number


My book ( Haynes # 1763 )shows the only engines (v-8) for 75 were the 302,
351, 400, and 460. Says FE's weren't made after 71.

----------
> From: Paul
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Engine Idenification
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 9:32 AM
>
> I need some help with identification of the engine in a 1975 F250
I
> recently bought. Good truck, well built but I'm still a little green on
> Ford design. Its a FE engine but how does one tell a 390, 360, etc. from
> each other without a teardown and measuring bore, stroke, etc. Anyplace
a
> VIN number was permanently affixed to the block besides the valve cover
tag?
> Any external clues I can look for?
> Can someone give a point of contact where I can get ford VIN info
> and what the truck was factory equipped with? Haynes, Chiltons is no
help
> and there is no telling when my 1975 shop manuals will arrive....anyone
care
> to take a stab....
>
> VIN......F25MCW45194
>
> Thanks, a new old Ford truck owner
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 18:03:59 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: C6 trans shift arm
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm fixing to put a 460 and c6 out of a car into my bronco, am I going to
have this shifter problem. Second, am I going to have a problem with the
output shaft?


----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: C6 trans shift arm
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 2:40 PM
>
> > Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 16:38:41 -0700
> > From: Paul G
> > Subject: C6 trans shift arm
>
> > Can the arm be easily moved around, if necessary? It just seems
> > that (not having the shifter to look upon) that the arm has to be at
> > a different angle.
>
> As I recall the hole has two flats 180 degrees apart so it can only
> be reversed 180. I had to do this when I put the bronco C-6 in my
> van since the shifter had a belcrank which reversed the direction and
> the valve apparently is reversed in the 4wd versions of the C-6,
> can't remember for sure now.
>
> -- Gary Peters --
>
> (Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
> (Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
> (Daughter's)92 Tempo
> (Daughter's)92 T-Bird
> (Wife's)94 T-Bird
> (Son's)90 F-150, I6
> (Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
> All mine to work on, maintain etc..
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 18:00:53 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Ammeter
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 10:51 AM
>
> > Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:46:32 -0400
> > From: Tom Hogan
> > Subject: Ammeter
>
> > >That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 -
> > >79 pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76
>
> We've discussed this topic at some length on the big bronco list and
> one of our members is quite up on them. He says that they are all
> bimetal type with bimetal regulator as well and so are "very slow"
> to respond to any inputs and only marginally accurate.

The ammeter is not governed by the bimetal regulator, only the gas, oil and
temp guages are governed by the bimetal regulator.

The ammeter in this unit is a moving magnet unit actuated by the current
flow in the wire which goes through the loop on its backside. very
inaccurate method, but cheap.

The one in my
> 78 PU seems to indicate a charge if I run the battery down and
> then start the engine so it only registers "large" shifts. I suspect
> it takes more than 10 amps to even move the needle and others of that
> vintage range I've had don't seem to show much life either but under
> the right conditions you can, if you're observant and quick see some
> movement.
>
> If I ever get out from under all the projects I have right now I plan
> to build a custom dash in which will reside an ammeter and voltmeter
> along with several other necessary gauges but of a higher quality and
> hopefully more active, responsive needles.
>
> -- Gary Peters --
>
> (Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
> (Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
> (Daughter's)92 Tempo
> (Daughter's)92 T-Bird
> (Wife's)94 T-Bird
> (Son's)90 F-150, I6
> (Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
> All mine to work on, maintain etc..
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 20:58:53 -0400
From: "George Shepherd"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 76 Pickup Wiring diagram
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Tom,

My Haynes #788 has some diagrams. If you want I will send you jpg's of
them. They seem generic, so I don't know how much help they will be.


----------
> From: Tom Hogan
> To: 'FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com'
> Subject: 76 Pickup Wiring diagram
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 5:29 PM
>
> Does anyone have a 1976 factory wiring diagram for a F-150 pickup. I
> have a super cab with a 390 FE and air conditioning. I was able to get
> all the factory manuals from Helm publishing but the wiring diagram is
> out of print. :~( If anyone has one they would copy or sell to me I
> would appreciate it.
>
> Thanks
> Tom H.
> 1976 F-150 Super Cab 390FE
> !997 Windstar 3.8L (wife's hot rod).
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 20:58:54 -0400
From: "George Shepherd"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Ammeter
> Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 5:21 PM
>
> >>Greetings,
> >>My name is Tom Hogan and I have just joined this forum. I have read
> >>some of the archives and the discussion has been really informative. I
> >>look forward to participating in future discussions.
> >>
> >>That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 - 79
> >>pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76 pickups
> >>and neither of them had a working ammeter. I have talked to several
> >>friends here and they all agree. The shop manual says the easiest way
> >>to test it is to turn on the headlights with the engine off. The
needle
> >>should deflect to the "D" side.
> >>The only time I have ever seent the ammeter work was in the movie
"Close
> >>Encounters" when the alien ship was hovering over Richard Dryfus's
> >>truck. Proof that the ammeters operation is fiction? Maybe...
> >>
> >>Regards
> >>Tom Hogan
> >>76 F-150 Super Cab
> >>97 Windstar
> >>
>
> Tom, that's a great question. I've never seen mine run either. I have a
71
> f250 and I'd like to fix the ammeter but have no idea how. My other
> instruments work fine, only the ammeter is not working.
>
> Is the ammeter in Ford pickus a shunt, or does it take the whole current?

According to the book, the ammeter is actuated by a movable magnet inside
it which is sensitive to the current flowing through the wire which passes
through the loop on its backside. I never went into one, but now
everybodies got me curious.

> Also, I was gonna buy an aftermarket ammeter (Auto Meter) but the catalog
> said don't use with over 60-amp ammeters, and mine's an 80 or something
> bigger like that (two belts, used to drive an inverter for power tools,
too
> bad the inverter's gone). Will my alternator melt down my stock ammeter,
or
> perhaps has it already?
>
> All help greatly appreciated,
>
>
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71 f250 4x4
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 20:58:56 -0400
From: MadPoodle aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Different Gague Question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I wrote:

>>A voltage gauge in conjunction with an ammeter will give you a more
accurate
>>picture of your charging systems condition.

texan iAmerica.net (George Shepherd) wrote

>IMHO, it does not give a more accurate picture of the charging system. I do
>use both and have often found bad batteries which charged up to 13 volts,
>but due to internal defects wouldn't start the engine. An amp would have....

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