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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 152

Today's Topics:

Carb Problem solved ["Donald R. Screen"
RE: survey [Kevin Kemmerer ]
Re: fouled plug ["Kevin" ]
FE [Dana Bartholomew
Re: FE ["Donald R. Screen"
price guide [CurtMey aol.com ]
Engine Idenification [Paul ]
Re: 73 F-250 rust repairs & galvaniz [marko helix.net (marko maryniak) ]
Re: Re: Different Gague Question ["George Shepherd"
(no subject) ["Edward Dunmyre" ]
1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts [Brian Koss
Ammeter [Tom Hogan
RE: '65 Ford F100 352 cid FE, Harmon [mcat epix.net ]
Re: Re: Different Gague Question ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: C6 trans shift arm ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Ammeter ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Survey [Keith Srb ]


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 22:45:43 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Carb Problem solved
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Well, I thought since I asked so many times about my Edelbrock carb
that I would post the solution that I finally acquired.

I asked several different sources about the hookup to my Edelbrock 1406
on my 1974 F100 XLT Ranger (360 V8 with 390 4v manifold). Lots of blank
stares. So I wrote Edelbrock tech support..had a hard time getting
through on their phone line. Got an email response from Scott Fort of
Edelbrock tech support. He provided my missing ground wire free of
charge and referred me to Dave M. in tech support, Edelbrock's Ford
Guru. He was very familiar with the FE motor line and the 1970 series
trucks. He asked me all the pertinent questions...C6, 360 with a 390
manifold etc.
He stated that the rod-rod design used on the transmission and throttle
linkage hookup was common for the FE motor but not so common for other
installations. He admitted Edelbrock did not have this particular
configuration accounted for since it is somewhat unusual. He did tell
me how to fix it. First I needed to add the 1483 Ford Adapter back on
to the carb. Hookup just the transmission kickdown rod first and make
sure it sits at the one o'clock position for proper throw and operation
of the kickdown. If it is too short then I will have to fabricate
another rod of the proper length. My Chilton's also has a short
procedure to check for proper screw adjustment of the kickdown at the
carb. Once that is done I have to fabricate a new throttle rod from the
carb back to the pedal linkage near the firewall. The rod is about 5/32
in diameter with 3 bends and is threaded on the end at the carb. I will
have to get some threaded 5/32 rod and bend it to fit my new carb
installation. The original rod would be too short to reach the new carb
throttle mounting stud.

Just to let other list members know I think I received an excellent
level of customer support from Edelbrock. Unusual these days.
I would gladly buy their products in the future. Will let you know how
well the carb performs when I get it fired up.

Don
Allen, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 23:43:31 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: survey
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

a survey sounds good Ken. it would be interesting to see who "we" are.

sleddog

----------
From: Ken Payne[SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 1997 9:22 PM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Intro letter


I know we have several Econoliners or at least we did during our last
survey. What does everyone here think of doing another survey? I
now have a web page password protection CGI script working so we can
make it completely private and put the results on the web page with
email addresses too. All address would be protected, only list members
could get to them and I would put an option on the survey form to leave
your address off.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)
fordtrucks lofcom.com is the 1979 and older truck list,
fordtrucks80up lofcom.com is the 1980 and newer truck list..
(Email me if you're on the wrong list)


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 23:13:17 -0000
From: "Kevin"
To:
Subject: Re: fouled plug
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

After a long thought, when you are adjusting the timing you must have the
truck in drive (please get help for this). You might try your plug gap at
.34,
some of the old high horsepower engines use a smaller gap.

-----Original Message-----
From: SARHOG aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Date: Tuesday, August 12, 1997 7:06 PM
Subject: fouled plug



>Can someone tell me why I foul the #1 plug with fuel after the truck gets
hot
>
>(200-210 deg.). All the plug wires are firing, cold or hot (checked each
>with a timing light). I did a compression check today, lowest cyl. was
137,
>highest was 165. #1 was 150. Am I missing something here?? The truck
runs
>good initially.
> I have a 460 w/429 oval port heads, headers, single plane intake, holley
>800cfm double pumper, electronic ignition w/ vacuum advance, new bosch
>platinum plugs gapped to .044. Timing is set to 10 deg. BTDC. By the way,
>my timing at idle doesn't change whether I disconnect the vacuum advance or
>not. Thanks for any help.
>
>J. ZaBelle
>
>67 F-100 460/ C-6
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 21:25:11 -0700
From: Dana Bartholomew
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: FE
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

OK, I give, I've been hoping to figure it out by post context but have
not. What does FE stand for?

Thanks,
--
Dana Bartholomew
Siegfried and Roy Theater
Mirage Hotel, Las Vegas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 00:01:09 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: FE
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
> OK, I give, I've been hoping to figure it out by post context but have
> not. What does FE stand for?
>


It stands for Ford Edsel

Don
Allen, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 01:50:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: CurtMey aol.com
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: price guide
Message-ID:

Does anyone know where I can find a priceguide for 30s trucks? I have a 1935
Ford half ton pickup I am considering selling. Thanks, Curt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 07:32:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Engine Idenification
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I need some help with identification of the engine in a 1975 F250 I
recently bought. Good truck, well built but I'm still a little green on
Ford design. Its a FE engine but how does one tell a 390, 360, etc. from
each other without a teardown and measuring bore, stroke, etc. Anyplace a
VIN number was permanently affixed to the block besides the valve cover tag?
Any external clues I can look for?
Can someone give a point of contact where I can get ford VIN info
and what the truck was factory equipped with? Haynes, Chiltons is no help
and there is no telling when my 1975 shop manuals will arrive....anyone care
to take a stab....

VIN......F25MCW45194

Thanks, a new old Ford truck owner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 07:34:46 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 73 F-250 rust repairs & galvanized inner fenders?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Hello all,
>
>I have a 73 F-250 with a rusted out radiator mount/front wall and an
>equally bad right front inner fender. In prowling junk yards looking for
>replacement metal, I've noticed that some 73-79 F150/250s appear to have
>galvanized inner fender aprons. Did Ford switch to galvanized for all
>models at some point? If so, when? Will fender and radiator support metal
>from any 73-79 F-anything fit iin my 73 F-250? It looks like it would, but
>I'd be grateful to hear the voice of experience before I take everything
>apart!
>
>Also, can anyone comment on JC Whitney's replacement metal for cab front
>floors halfs and front cab mounts? Do they fit properly? Relatively
>easy/hard to put in? And what would be a "reasonable" price to pay to have
>the floor metal installed?
>
>Thanks in advance for your answers to all my questions!
>
>Joe
>73 F250 360/4sp 2wd - Not so slowly rusting away in Maine
>Joe DallatoreCisco Systems, Inc.
>Network Consulting Engineer (NSA)250 Apollo Drive
>Email: jdallato or dallatore Chelmsford MA 01824
>Phone: 508-244-8314Pager:1-800-365-4578
>
>
Joe,

I have a 71 f250 4x4. I called Ford and they told my my rad support was
obsolete. And so was the 73-79. But, luckily, Uptown Motors in
Kapuskasing, Ontario (nowhere near anywhere, area code 705) had two for the
73-79. I ordered one (some 200 bucks new, and that's monopoly money) and
when it arrived I was pleased to find everything was in order except the rad
hole was too small. All I had to do was get out my trusty plasma cutter and
phhhhttt!!! make the hole the correct size. Looks like Ford stamped out
different size holes for different rads, but everything else bolts up
perfectly. You don't need a fancy plasma cutter tho, an air nibbler or even
a jigsaw and a strong pair of earmuffs would do fine. Don't bother looking
at junkyards, as they all rust in the same spot.

Call Uptown Motors (sorry I threw out the number but you can phone 705
5551212 and find the number out) and ask them if they still have the thing.
What with Nafta and all it should be tax free to send it down to you if a
dealer in yr area doesn't have one. And Kapuskasing is a lot closer to you
in maine than me in vancouver...

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 09:54:42 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Re: Different Gague Question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Re: Different Gague Question
> Date: Tuesday, August 12, 1997 3:52 PM
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 8/12/97 19:54:18, you wrote:
> >
> > >As I recall, the purpose of the ammeter is to indicate battery charge.
Using
> > >this logic, the ammeter goes in series with the generator-to-battery
charge
> > >wire. Regards, Paul.
> >
> > Actually, ammeter indicates charge rate, or amperage being put into
battery.
> > It does not give an accurate indication of battery charge. A bad
battery can
> > show a high charge rate for awhile, or the ammeter indicates the charge
rate
> > has dropped very low, but the battery may not start the vehicle. A
voltage
> > gauge in conjunction with an ammeter will give you a more accurate
picture of
> > your charging systems condition.
> > Yes, it connects in series if it is a direct reading type, not a
magnetically
> > induced type.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> Actually, a bad battery can read normal charge rate and voltage,
> specific gravity would be a better indicator. A monthly check with a
> hydrometer works well. A bad cell will read lower than a good cell.

Sealed batteries suck, I understand modern no maintaince philosophy, but I
want to maintain my equipment.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 11:27:22 -0400
From: "Edward Dunmyre"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: (no subject)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------61E1493A4276"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------61E1493A4276
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

--


Hang on tight, life's a bumpy ride!

--------------61E1493A4276
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="mailtogo.txt"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="mailtogo.txt"

Call Parker Metal Products for a free catalog. They have any body part

you.ll need for your 73 F-250. You will save a lot of money over J. C.

Wit.. I replaced my floor, both sides $65.00, cut the old floor out with

a grinding wheel, "it makes a nicer look" saved a 1" 1/2 lip to fasten

new pans to, popped a few rivets into it, to hold in place tack welded

then caulked the seams. Stronger than factory when done IMHO.Parker

Metal Products Western. Pa. 412-224-2472

-- I have nothing to do with this Co. I don't own, work for, know any

one that does, I just buy parts from them.



Eddie

Hang on tight, life's a bumpy ride!


--------------61E1493A4276--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 08:26:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Koss
To: Fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 1966 f100 4x4 engine mounts
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm in the process of returning my 1966 f100 4x4 truck to stock conditon
and want to replace the 351w with a 390 (looks like a 352) for more torque.
I am looking for stock frame to motor mount brackets. MacDonalds Obsolete
has the right side but I cannot find a left. Does anybody know if the
brackets are mirror images? Has anybody seen one recently in a juck yard?

Brian
66 F100 4x4
68 Must 428CJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:46:32 -0400
From: Tom Hogan
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Greetings,
>My name is Tom Hogan and I have just joined this forum. I have read
>some of the archives and the discussion has been really informative. I
>look forward to participating in future discussions.
>
>That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 - 79
>pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76 pickups
>and neither of them had a working ammeter. I have talked to several
>friends here and they all agree. The shop manual says the easiest way
>to test it is to turn on the headlights with the engine off. The needle
>should deflect to the "D" side.
>The only time I have ever seent the ammeter work was in the movie "Close
>Encounters" when the alien ship was hovering over Richard Dryfus's
>truck. Proof that the ammeters operation is fiction? Maybe...
>
>Regards
>Tom Hogan
>76 F-150 Super Cab
>97 Windstar
>
>--- end forwarded text
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> L.O.F. Communications sales lofcom.com
> Check Out Charlie's News Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/news/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:08:23 -0400
From: mcat epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: '65 Ford F100 352 cid FE, Harmonic Balancer Pulley
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Gene
You can replace the balancer with a later one. just make sure that
the pulley lines up with the others. mostlater balancers are thicker but
are interchangeable the pulleys are different for different applacations
on different cars and trucks within the ford FE family. You may have to
mix and match crank pulleys till you find the right spacing. Good luck
Garry
--- On Tue, 12 Aug 1997 12:12:33 -0600 "Gene E. Bray"
wrote:

>The referenced engine came with a very small, low mass, harmonic balancer
>pulley that has the single accessory belt groove and timing marks on the
>rubber mounted part of the pulley. This
>arrangement apparently attempts to add the rotational inertia of the
>alternator and water pump to the dampener via the fan belt. Was this
>arrangement the only one used on this engine or did later production have
>an improved harmonic balancer?
>
>
>I ask this question because my new long block remanufactured engine (from
>TAM Manufacturing in Tacoma WA) has an annoying torsional vibration range
>from 1350 to 1650 rpm. I feel I should replace the existing, vintage
>pulley on which the rubber layer appears to be fatigued or at least
>severely checked. (This could compromise accurate setting of the
>timing.) Is there a better solution or am I sentenced to replacing with
>parts of the same design? Is there a reliable rebuilder who can remould
>the rubber in such a balancer?
>
>
>The answer I received from the local Ford agency is that from what
>records they had at hand, there was never a superseding PN for the
>original harmonic balancer pulley on the subject engine. The original PN
>just went obsolete. This implies Ford never changed the design.
>
>
>Can anyone shed more light on this? (BTW, I do
>have a NOS pulley on the way from NOS Only in San Jose (408) 227-2353 but
>it's $165 - ugh.)
>
>Gene E. Bray; 5654 El Gato Lane; Meridian ID 83642
>
>(208)888-3293; gebray primenet.com
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/unsubscribe.html
>
>

-----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 8/13/97 Time: 12:49:49 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:10:48 -0400
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Different Gague Question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> From: "George Shepherd"
> Subject: Re: Re: Different Gague Question
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 20:01:53 -0500

> > >As I recall, the purpose of the ammeter is to indicate battery
> > >charge.

In my experience so far the ammeter simply registers whether the
battery or the alternator is supplying the load current since the
ammeter is connected between the alternator/load and battery. If the
alternator is supplying more voltage and current than the load
requires then it will show a positive charge as the excess is
delivered to the battery. If the load exceeds the alternators output
then the battery has to supply some or all of the load requirements
and shows a reverse flow from the battery to supply the load. If the
battery is dead AND the alternator isn't working I'm not quite sure
what it would show??? Probably nothing since there could be no load
in that case either :-)

> IMHO, it does not give a more accurate picture of the charging
> system. I do use both and have often found bad batteries which
> charged up to 13 volts, but due to internal defects wouldn't start

When the connectors in the battery become loose the current is not
able to flow through all the cells properly causing a low
voltage/high amperage situation internally under load so it's
possible to have a fully charged battery which won't start the engine
due to voltage drop (Ohms law) as you say. I find with trucks this
is very common due to harsh suspensions but usually degrades to a
more understandable condition rather quickly since one or several of
the cells soon become completely disconnected leaving a tell tale low
voltage across the posts so that the volt meter can be useful as well
and will indicate the dormant state of charge before starting the
engine if you care to check it then.

Personnally I like the idea of having both if I set up my own gauges
:-)


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:40:51 -0400
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: C6 trans shift arm
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 16:38:41 -0700
> From: Paul G
> Subject: C6 trans shift arm

> Can the arm be easily moved around, if necessary? It just seems
> that (not having the shifter to look upon) that the arm has to be at
> a different angle.

As I recall the hole has two flats 180 degrees apart so it can only
be reversed 180. I had to do this when I put the bronco C-6 in my
van since the shifter had a belcrank which reversed the direction and
the valve apparently is reversed in the 4wd versions of the C-6,
can't remember for sure now.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:51:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:46:32 -0400
> From: Tom Hogan
> Subject: Ammeter

> >That having been said now for my question. Has anyone with a 73 -
> >79 pickup ever seen the ammeter (Guage) work? I have owned two 76

We've discussed this topic at some length on the big bronco list and
one of our members is quite up on them. He says that they are all
bimetal type with bimetal regulator as well and so are "very slow"
to respond to any inputs and only marginally accurate. The one in my
78 PU seems to indicate a charge if I run the battery down and
then start the engine so it only registers "large" shifts. I suspect
it takes more than 10 amps to even move the needle and others of that
vintage range I've had don't seem to show much life either but under
the right conditions you can, if you're observant and quick see some
movement.

If I ever get out from under all the projects I have right now I plan
to build a custom dash in which will reside an ammeter and voltmeter
along with several other necessary gauges but of a higher quality and
hopefully more active, responsive needles.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:56:40 -0400
From: Keith Srb
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Survey
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sounds good to me. Go for it!


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From:Ken Payne [SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent:Tuesday, August 12, 1997 6:23 PM
To:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject:Re: Intro letter

At 08:37 AM 8/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>This is a test. This is only a test. If this were an actual message, it
>would show at least a little intelligence. I just signed onto FORDTRUCKS
>and I wanted to let everyone know I'm here. I come from a long line of
>FOMOCO drivers and I'm helping my 16 year old son restore his first car, a
>65 Falcon convertible. I am working on my own 63 Econoline PU. Are there
>any other Econoliners out there??? I'm in Baldwin, IL., just 45 miles SSE
>of St. Louis. Does anyone know what happened to the Econo Club? One day I
>was a member, the next day they disappeared. Happy motoring
>

I know we have several Econoliners or at least we did during our last....

---

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