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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 141

Today's Topics:

Ranger XLT [John Strauss
Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harne [Leon Atkinson ]
Holley 4BBL questions [Keith Srb ]
Re: speedometer question [Bill Adams
Re: Holley 4BBL questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
can someone tell me my options? [KEVIN ]
Re: pinging ["Donald R. Screen"
Re: pinging [Bj2797 aol.com ]
Re: RE: 460 Headers [MadPoodle aol.com ]
Re: 460 Headers ["Mike & Evan" ]
Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio? [Daver ]
Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio? [Daver ]
Re: COMPRESSION FYI [Daver ]
Re: COMPRESSION FYI [Daver ]
Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harne [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harne [TNickolson aol.com ]
Re: COMPRESSION FYI [Daver ]
RE: Holley 4BBL questions [Keith Srb ]
Build sheets [Chris North ]
Re: Build sheets ["Donald R. Screen"
Distrubutor (1967/300) [Jim Freyburger
Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re:pinging ["art l" ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 10:44:49 -0500
From: John Strauss
To: Ford Trucks List
Subject: Ranger XLT
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I know someone already answered this question, but I must of deleted the
>answer. Where does the Ranger XLT fit in 74 model line.

In 1973-1977, the Ranger XLT was the top of the line. In 1979 the Lariat
was added as an upgrade over the XLT. In 1974 it was Custom, Ranger,
Ranger XLT. As usual the Explorer package was available but did not "fit"
into the line, it incorporated one of the trim levels with other options.
The Explorer was actually a precursor to the current "Special Value
Packages" or whatever Ford calls them these days.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 08:59:01 -0700
From: Leon Atkinson
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harness
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Have you considered trying a different supplier? I know Bob's F100 carries
wiring
harnesses for F100's. (It makes sense they would have them for F1's as
well). There's
even an article in the latest issue of "Ford Truckin'" magazine on how to
put a
new wiring harness (from Bob's) in a 56 F100. If Bob's doesn't have one,
Sacramento
is a good place to try, too.

Leon
1956 F100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 10:08:34 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: Holley 4BBL questions
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

74 F250, 390V8, Factory Equipped Holley 4BBl. I have several questions about
this carb. I turned the air cleaner cover over, to allow more air flow into the
carb, I want to put a K&N Air Filter on it sometime. Anyway yesterday, air
cleaner cover turned over, I noticed two things. One it took a lot more fuel to
get to work, it seemed like it took twice as much fuel to get to work and back
home. Second, while under heavy acceleration, the engine seemed to bog down
until I lifted my foot off the accelerator pedal some. Actually I found that if
I would only push the pedal about 1/4 to 1/2 way down to the floor the engine
would jump to life and go. If I floored it, the engine bogged down until I
lifted the pedal far enough to find that sweet spot.

I know I need to adjust some things on the carb, but where should I start?
Accelerator pump travel, check the secondaries to see if they are functioning?

Any words of wisdom out there in Ford Truck land?? The last time I dealt with
a Holley Carb was 10 or 11 years ago.

Thanks!

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:08:14 -0700
From: Bill Adams
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: speedometer question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

DC Beatty wrote:
>
> Greetings. My speedometer in my '67 F-100 is inaccurate (about 5 or 10 mph off I
> estimate), and the needle jumps around whenever I am driving under 40 mph. Does
> anyone know of a way of remedying this? I would hate to pay someone to fix
> something that I could possibly fix.
>
I daily drive a 66 with and may be about to ruin your day. :)
My Effy developed the same problem. It turned out to be the speedometer
gear located on the shaft inside the transmission. I had to disassemble
the back end of the transmission to replace it. Of all the stupid things
the HARD to replace gear was plastic while the little gear on the end of
the cable (easy to replace) was iron. It's now the pther w ay around and
my speedo works great.

You didn't mention what kind of tranmission your running, mine is a 4
speed granny gear, T-15. (I'm pretty sure it's a T-15, I don't feel like
crawling under there right now)

Remove the end of the spedo cable from the transmission and look in
there with a flash light, if the gear looks chewed up, or dished out
it's probably the culprit. You may get lucky and find that the easy to
replace gear is bad.

Good luck
Bill
1966 F-100 352V8, Granny Gear 4spd (daily driver)
1961 F-100 unibody with 3spd and 223 single barrel ( daughters truck,
dad's project)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 13:43:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Holley 4BBL questions
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Holley 4BBL questions
> Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 10:08:34 -0700

> it sometime. Anyway yesterday, air cleaner cover turned over, I
> noticed two things. One it took a lot more fuel to get to work, it
> seemed like it took twice as much fuel to get to work and back home.
> Second, while under heavy acceleration, the engine seemed to bog
> down until I lifted my foot off the accelerator pedal some. Actually

What kind of air cleaner, stock or after market? After turning it
over what shape did it have relative to the carb intake horn and does
the choke horn stick up above the floor of the air cleaner? Did it
act up before you turned the air cleaner over?

Sounds like you interfered with the flow by turning it over. Most
performance air cleaner floors taper up to the horn with a rounded
lip or rim which blends into the venturi. They recommend that it you
run without an aircleaner you at least leave the bottom on the carb
for this purpose. I don't fully understand the dynamics but know
that with the exception of stacks for full out drag racing this is
usually the case.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 17:21:44 -0500
From: KEVIN
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: can someone tell me my options?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

O'tay.I have a 1975 f100 and am rebuilding it.I woud like everyones
opinion on my truck.1st,it is the EXPLORER model (vin#f10huw82044)what
stuff came on these trucks and what didn't.2nd,the paint job is grabber
orange and is going to go back the same way,it has a 4"wide stipe cross
the hood with 2 1"tracer stripes that follow the large one completely to
the rear.I bought it with a 390 2v,ac,amm radio,power stering,and
manual brakes with front disk.
Any and all information on exactly what came on the truck and a break
down of the vin classification is greatly appreciated
Please feel free to elaborate intensly.
thanks OLDSMO POSTOFFICE.SWBELL.NET

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997 21:54:07 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: pinging
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> >
> > I have a 78 F-250 4x4 400M, it has a performer manafold and Carter AFB 4v
> > carberator.The problem is when ever I pull my boat or get into the mortor
> > hard it pings like crazy, and starts to overheat. These problems all
> > started we we made the carburator changes, when we put the carb on,we
> took
> > off the vacum hose that comes off the thermostat housingand one that runs
> > off the back of the motor up to the vacum can,(I thinkthats where it
> > went).The vacum for the distributer comes off the carb now. What I would
> > like to know is if there are any book or diagrams that will tell me how
> to
> > hook these vacum lines back up. This is the only thing I can think that
> we
> > changed when the new carb was put on, also the egr valve was not put back
> > on. I have the Ford service manuel for the 78 Ford and it shows nothing
> of
> > the vacum hoses, and I think this is what is causing my problems, it
> cause
> > the carb to run too lean, or does anybody else have a different idea.
> > Thanks Art Lutz


Had a similar problem with my truck...If your carb is too lean it will
contribute to engine overheating and pinging. You can step up one
number jet size on your Holley and see if that helps. Shouldn't have to
go more than 2 jet sizes richer. Pull your spark plugs to get a reading
on the lean vs. rich status. Black plugs (rich), white (lean), dark tan
means the mixture is just right. Chiltons has some good color plug
photos for reading plugs. Someone else here can probably tell you more
about changing jets on a Holley than I can.

Your distributor hookup --- It may only use ported vacuum from the carb
instead of full vacuum. With a ported vacuum port (above the the
throttle plate on the carb) you should see zero vacuum at the port at
idle. Full vacuum off of another port should show around 17-18 inches
at idle. Depends on what type of carb your running as to how much
vacuum it needs or uses at idle and cruise. I would hazard a guess that
your carb uses the ported vacuum off of the carb going to the
distributor.

I added Accel plug wires to my truck and it solved about 95% of my
pinging problems. (8mm Super Stock spiral wound, about $28).
New Accel rotor cap and rotor too.

How old are your plug wires?

ALL of my books say that the EGR valve helps reduce pinging. This is
because the reintroduction of exhaust gases to be reburned lowers the
combustion chamber temps up to a whopping 2500 degrees. Without
exception every Ford book I own says make sure the EGR valve is
functioning and installed or you could end up with pinging.

The Holley should have an EGR vacuum port and a Spark port for the
distributor. Sometimes one way check valves and vacuum delay valves are
used as well as Thermal Vacuum Switches to control when the vacuum is
allowed to reach the device it is controlling. Ford calls the thermal
vacuum switches, PVS.

The EGR PVS should be a two port thermal vacuum switch mounted near or
on the thermostat housing. There might also be a three port thermal
vacuum switch on the thermostat housing. The middle port goes to the
distributor, top port to the intake manifold vacuum source and the
bottom port to the ported vacuum port on the carb.

Decent vacuum diagrams seem to be very tough to come by. If you have a
MOTOR manual or access to one at a library they may have what your are
looking for.

MOTOR also has a web site and may send you one, free for the asking.
They tried to help me.

Only other thing I can thing of is using a new ignition coil. Weak
ignition can cause bad pinging.

Don
Allen, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 19:51:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bj2797 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: pinging
Message-ID:

hey,Don
Too bad he doesn't have a HOLLEY!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 19:56:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: MadPoodle aol.com
To: kevkem epix.net, fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: RE: 460 Headers
Message-ID:

In a message dated 8/5/97 7:42:43, kevkem epix.net (Kevin Kemmerer) wrote:

>the bolts are hard to reach with anything but of a shortened open end wrench

Header bolts usually easy to get with one of those combo open end / swivel
socket wrenches. Not a cheap wrench, but beats busted knuckles...

l8tr

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 07:51:28 -0500
From: "Mike & Evan"
To:
Subject: Re: 460 Headers
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The problem I have is: L&L had the fender well exit headers in stock and
could ship them immediately. The in-frame style they were having problems
with and was told it would be end of August at the earliest. Who knows how
long I could be waiting for those! They are the same price though, and I
can wait for a while, but I want the truck done by the time the snow
flies!!
Do the fender well exit kind exit above the frame rail and then outside
the body mount? Don't they interfere with steering linkage? My truck is
stock highboy height and it looks like my tires could rub them in a tight
turn, especially a rough one.
Thanks for the help!!

Mike Vonhof
yasky netins.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:00:34 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

George Shepherd wrote:
>
> I'd also bring the stall speed on the torque converter down. With that much
> torque, you don't need such a high stall speed.

I'm running 591 flbs at 4500 RPM and I run a 2400 stall. Tork is not
the deciding factor in choosing to or not to run a stall. the deciding
factor is where is your power band if it comes in at an idle then you do
not need a stall if it is coming in at 2 or 3000 the you do. what the
stall is doing is making the engine get up into it's power band befor
feeding power to the wheels. It makes it seem as though it hesitates
and it does; but it helps if you are towing because it is not as hard on
your drive train if the engine gets in it's power band befor getting
into a strain. We racers get the advantage by brake torking, hold down
the brake and bring it up to 2 or 3000 RPM then turn it loose and it'll
launch like a rocket.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:18:37 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 06:58:18 -0500
> > From: Daver
> > Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?
>
> > Ear yeh yeh 10.5 to 1 DYNAMIC compression so what is the max static
> > which is what most people refer to? Depends on how you setup. My
> > sugestionis to run about 11.0:1 and run a Comp Cam 268 or 270 single
> > grind cam for street balance the engine and pocket port it/match the
> > intake (a Eddlebrock preformer RPM and you'll enjoy runablity with
> > good 89 or moderate 92 octane fuel running a start advance of 10 to
> > 14 BTDC and a full advance of 20 to 24 BTDC.
> >
> > Molater
> >
> > Daver
>
> Are you saying that 24 degrees total advance at any rpm is
> sufficient? My understanding is 36-38 total is best with 10-12
> static???
>
> -- Gary Peters --

Actually Gary you'll have to forgive me I am an FE Guy and stock FE's
run 8 BTDC start and around 16 to 18 full. Mine runs 21 BTDC start and
43 BTDC full. I was attempting to say a mild above advance timing and a
small inexpensive single grind cam would satisfy most folks craving for
power and give a little economy.

Folks be careful what you run out and buy. There are some heavy
preformance people on the list and when you start talking horse power it
makes the blood boil and the hobbiest gets excited and wants more. When
you start building horse power the engine is just the start to do it
justice you have to build a strong trany a good rear end and then start
worring about putting it to the ground which intails suspension mods.

My advise to the fellow that is attempting to build an every day hobby
truck is shoot for 300 to 350 horse power using machine work and stock
parts. If you do this any good auto machine shop can help you and your
funds will go alot further. 300 to 350 horse will give a good seat of
the pants pull and beat most comaro's and mustangs from the light.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:35:34 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: COMPRESSION FYI
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a 4 cyl pinto motor that is set up at 13.5:1 and runs 93 octane
at 320 horse it thumps hard not that we used 6" rods in it which
lengthened the rod by .75+/-" which lowered rod angularity and cut back
on side loading.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:39:09 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: COMPRESSION FYI
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:
>
> On Mon 4 Aug 1997, Kevin Kemmerer wrote:
>
> >all this talk of compression is goning on, so i thought i would share an =
> >experience of my cousin. this does relate to ford trucks, as well as =
> >any engine running cast iron heads.
>
>
> >also, when replacing the gaskets each time they blew many =
> >pushrods where bent (from the high compression - need cromemoly ones =
> >now).
>
> If I were You, I'd be looking elsewhere for the cause of the
> bent pushrods.
>
> Why would the pushrods care what the compression ratio is?
> The only time there is any significant cylinder pressure is when
> the valves are CLOSED and the pushrods are just lazily waiting
> for the next "event" to come along...
>
> If You guys are really spinning to 7K+ rpm with STOCK pushrods,
> it's no wonder there's problems.
> The most common causes of bend pushrods are:
> Too high RPM
> Piston/Valve interferance.
> Spring coil bind (with high lift cams)
> Retainer/guide interferance (high lift cams)
> Rocker bind problems, inadequate slot length on stud mount rockers.
>
> Never heard of it from excess compression...
>
> >we checked the compression using a comp gauge and came up with about 240 =
> >psi. this calcs to 17:1 compression! they apparently sent the wrong =
> >pistons!
>
> You can't really use comp pressures to calculate comp ratios.
> The problem is adiabatic heating of the charge.
> When You squeeze a load of air to a smaller volume, it gets MUCH hotter.
> (Hey, that's why diesels work ain't it...?)
> This hotter temp further increases the pressure of the gas, so MEASURED
> pressures are usually *much* higher than CALCULATED pressures.
>
> Example: I once built a 2110cc VW motor with 10.5:1 comp.
> It had 220 psi of compression pressure... Da math don't work do it?
>
> I suppose You could use PV = nRT to calculate the real pressure
> ratio, but You would have to know exactly how much charge heat was
> absorbed by the piston, cylinder and head and know what percentage
> of air was pumped back due to cam duration. (Ack!)
>
> Gas physics over for today,
>
> Steve Delanty
>
> 1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

You are 100% correct Steve.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:43:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harness
Message-ID:

Try Dennis Carpenter for a harness or Bob Drake. A guy named Chrisq

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:47:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: TNickolson aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: JCWhitney info, F-1 wiring harness
Message-ID:

Try Dennis Carpenter 704-786-8139, Bob Drake 800-248-0066 or Chris Olson
800-874-9981. These guy have the best. I would not buy ANYTHING from JC
Whitney, I have always had bad luck and their are many othe quality suppliers
around

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:50:13 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: COMPRESSION FYI
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The piston should be on the way down when the valve begine to open
making the combustion pressure nominal as far as the valve is
concerned. Also as the valve opens it releases pressure around it so it
only blocks the hole when closed and the second it begins to open
pressure is released in such a manner that it actually helps the valve
open this is why a triple angle grind on the valves is so popular. If
you are bending push rods your valve train geometry is off probably due
to having the heads milled the push rods are probably to long (it
does'nt take much).

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:24:10 -0700
From: Keith Srb
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Holley 4BBL questions
Message-ID:

It is the stock air cleaner. I took the lid off, fliped it over and bolted
it back on. This way you can see the air filter sitting under the lid. No
it did not act up until I flipped the top of the air cleaner over, seems
like the engine couldn't handle the amount of air it could get with the lid
flipped over. In the desert where I live it would be commiting engine
suicide if I ran the truck with an air filter, a lot of sand in the air.

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"


-----Original Message-----
From:Gary, 78 BBB [SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent:Tuesday, August 05, 1997 6:44 AM
To:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject:Re: Holley 4BBL questions

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Holley 4BBL questions
> Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 10:08:34 -0700

> it sometime. Anyway yesterday, air cleaner cover turned over, I
> noticed two things. One it took a lot more fuel to get to work, it
> seemed like it took twice as much fuel to get to work and back home.
> Second, while under heavy acceleration, the engine seemed to bog
> down until I lifted my foot off the accelerator pedal some. Actually

What kind of air cleaner, stock or after market? After turning it
over what shape did it have relative to the carb intake horn and does
the choke horn stick up above the floor of the air cleaner? Did it
act up before you turned the air cleaner over?

Sounds like you interfered with the flow by turning it over. Most
performance air cleaner floors taper up to the horn with a rounded
lip or rim which blends into the venturi. They recommend that it you
run without an aircleaner you at least leave the bottom on the carb
for this purpose. I don't fully understand the dynamics but know
that with the exception of stacks for full out drag racing this is
usually the case.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 23:00:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Build sheets
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Could someone tell me how to get a build sheet for my van? I have seen
this information posted on this list before, but (like a fool) I trashed it
thinking I wasn't interested. Now I am.

Thanks.

chris north

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 00:17:06 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Build sheets
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Chris North wrote:
>
> Could someone tell me how to get a build sheet for my van? I have seen
> this information posted on this list before, but (like a fool) I trashed it
> thinking I wasn't interested. Now I am.
>
> Thanks.
>
> chris north

Just send a short email request to :

cacinfo ford.com

with your VIN number.

Don
Allen, Texas

PS. Just got mine in the mail! It's a great source of info.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 06:11:30 -0700
From: Jim Freyburger
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Distrubutor (1967/300)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Recently I found I nice used 300, hower it did no have a distrubutor
etc.
I've seen several discussions concerning using the Dura Spark, but
nothing for a six. Does any one know what years to use and if a 8 will
work for a 6. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 08:37:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?
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> Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 09:00:34 -0500
> From: Daver
> Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?

> the you do. what the stall is doing is making the engine get up
> into it's power band befor feeding power to the wheels. It makes it

Seems like so many of us are trying to get two extremes from our
trucks. On the one hand we want gobs of torque at the bottom for
towing or climbing hills but we want to blow all those vettes in the
weeds at the top too and It aint likely to happen without some
serious sacrifices either to drivability or economy or putting two
engines in our trucks.

High stall converters might give us low speed drivability and torque
but at what cost? Takes more rpm to do the job which translates into
more fuel and more engine wear and produces more heat in the....

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