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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 138

Today's Topics:

Re: speedometer question ["Wayne Bowen"
RE: pinging [DC Beatty
RE:Pinging ["art l" ]
Re : speedometer question [Serian the Technomancer Archmage
Re: 53&56 Ford Truck Manuals [fjm ]
Re: speedometer question [Larry Brown
Re: 1967 backup lights ["George Shepherd"
Re: speedometer question ["George Shepherd"
Re: RE:Pinging ["Wayne Bowen"
Re: Question regarding paint colors [Daver ]
Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio? [Daver ]
Re: pinging [Daver ]
Re: Question for the Ford guru's [Daver ]
RE:Pinging [Chris North ]
Re: pinging ["Jim Strigas"
Wanted parts or info [Alan Mittelstaedt
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #13 ["Chistopher S. Vance" ]
Re: pinging [Daver ]
Re: Question regarding paint colors ["George Shepherd"

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 22:58:03 -0400
From: "Wayne Bowen"
To:
Subject: Re: speedometer question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

DC Pull your speedo cable out and lubricate it with Lubriplate or white
Lithium grease that should help with the bouncing. If it's binding that
might be causing it to be off. There are alot of variables if that dosen't
work for the calibration. Example, Tire size, rear end gearing. I have also
seen speedometer gears in the tranny with broken or worn teeth that would
make a speedometer act like that.
Wayne Bowen
72 F100
360 FE / C-6

89 Ranger
2.3L
----------
> From: DC Beatty
> To: 'FORD TRUCKS'
> Subject: speedometer question
> Date: Saturday, August 02, 1997 10:43 PM
>
> Greetings. My speedometer in my '67 F-100 is inaccurate (about 5 or 10
mph off I
> estimate), and the needle jumps around whenever I am driving under 40
mph. Does
> anyone know of a way of remedying this? I would hate to pay someone to
fix
> something that I could possibly fix.
>
> I guess I could just drive 50 mph or better everywhere I go. Hmmm....
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: 02 Aug 97 22:59:04 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: pinging
Message-ID:

The carb could do it and also timing that is too far advanced (or is it
retarded???) could do it. Also, bad spark plugs can cause pinging under load.

It sounds like you took the vacuum line off the ported vacuum switch. It's the
funny useless looking thing that sticks into the thermostat housing. I think it
has letters by the little ports that tell where the lines go (D for distributor,
M for manifold, etc.). I guess this switch is designed to advance the timing and
increase the engine rpm's when the engine gets too hot.

Good luck. I hope this helps.

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

I have a 78 F-250 4x4 400M, it has a performer manafold and Carter AFB 4v
carberator.The problem is when ever I pull my boat or get into the mortor
hard it pings like crazy, and starts to overheat. These problems all
started we we made the carburator changes, when we put the carb on,we took
off the vacum hose that comes off the thermostat housingand one that runs
off the back of the motor up to the vacum can,(I thinkthats where it
went).The vacum for the distributer comes off the carb now. What I would
like to know is if there are any book or diagrams that will tell me how to
hook these vacum lines back up. This is the only thing I can think that we
changed when the new carb was put on, also the egr valve was not put back
on. I have the Ford service manuel for the 78 Ford and it shows nothing of
the vacum hoses, and I think this is what is causing my problems, it cause
the carb to run too lean, or does anybody else have a different idea.
Thanks Art Lutz

79 F-250 4x4 400M


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 20:43:47 -0700
From: "art l"
To:
Subject: RE:Pinging
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am running straight vaccum to the distributor. Is the vaccum can for the
distributor? Also, I have tried different grades of gas, has not helped the
problem. I am looking into rejetting the carburator. I'm runnung the timing
ten degrees advanced, any less and the engine runs very poorly. Thanks Art


78 F-250 4X4 400M

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Aug 1997 23:18:13 -0400
From: Serian the Technomancer Archmage
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re : speedometer question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Greetings. My speedometer in my '67 F-100 is inaccurate (about 5 or 10 mph
off I
>estimate), and the needle jumps around whenever I am driving under 40 mph.
Does
>anyone know of a way of remedying this?

Sounds like your speedometer cable may be severely worn or broken ... try
replacing it with a new one and see if that works to cure the problem.
(The part is relatively inexpensive, but depending on how the instrument
cluster is bolted in, it might be a real time-consuming pain in the ass to
change it ... )

== Serian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Aug 1997 23:08:21 -0700
From: fjm
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 53&56 Ford Truck Manuals
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Browsing the auto section of a local used book store today I came across
a 1956 Ford Truck Manual and a slightly more used 1953 Manual. Original
Ford manuals, the 1956 was $40 and the more greasy 1953 was $30. They
also had an official 2 volume 1948-56 Ford Truck illustrated parts
manual and catalogue. $40 for the text which has the most extensive
listing of parts numbers referenced to casting numbers andd
manufacturers I've ever seen. It's a good companion to the
illustrations which show every part in the truck in assembly exploded
diagrams with references denote which parts are 1948 or 48-56 or 55 and
later. If you're interested contact me via private e-mail and I'll give
you the number of the store. They'll do credit cards and ship out of
state. Oh the parts book was also $40 which seems steep but if
theyd've covered 1973 F-100's I'dve walked out of the store with both of
them. I have no financial interest in this whatsoever. fjm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 09:17:36 -0500
From: Larry Brown
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: speedometer question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

you might have two seperate problems here.

1.The jumping needle is normally caused my a dry cable, this can be
repaired by removing the inner cable from the speedo head and soaking it in
a lithinium based oil then reinstalling.
(If you cannot find such a lube locally try making your own by mixing some
rear end grease with some kerosene, the kerosene will evaporate leaving the
grease worked into the cable)
2. After lubing your chain you need to find out just how much your speed
is off and if it is fast or slow and by how much. If it it fast you can
change out the speedo drive gear (located at the transmission with one that
has more teeth, if slow one that has fewer teeth)

I hope this helps.
Larry

At 10:43 PM 8/2/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Greetings. My speedometer in my '67 F-100 is inaccurate (about 5 or 10 mph
off I
>estimate), and the needle jumps around whenever I am driving under 40 mph.
Does
>anyone know of a way of remedying this? I would hate to pay someone to fix
>something that I could possibly fix.
>
>I guess I could just drive 50 mph or better everywhere I go. Hmmm....
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 17:09:12 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: 1967 backup lights
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Have them check their Hollendars, I think 66 and 67 big ford cars had the
same switch part no.

----------
> From: DC Beatty
> To: 'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'
> Subject: RE: 1967 backup lights
> Date: Saturday, August 02, 1997 9:43 PM
>
> No problem Don. Sounds like the same bozo that owned my truck owned
yours!!!
>
> Anyway, the switch is still in mine, but the Chilton book said it was in
the
> engine compartment clamped onto the column (a la the three speed manual
> transmission). Thus my confusion on the matter. The book is wrong.
>
> Yes, $80 sounds quite high. I think I will go to the junkyard and get 15
used
> ones at $5 each and see if I am lucky on one!!!
>
> Thanks,
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
>
> ----------
> DC Beatty wrote:
> >
> > The backup lights don't work in my '67 F-100. The Chilton book states
that I
> > should have a little switch on the steering column by the shift lever.
I got
> the
> > switch at the boneyard and installed it and they still don't work.
There are
> no
> > wires going to the FMX tranny.
> >
> > Many of the '67-'72 trucks at the boneyard didn't have a switch either.
> Instead,
> > there was a sort of jumper wire on the push-on terminal that would plug
into
> the
> > switch. Mine was exactly like these others that I saw. I was wondering
what
> > other '67 truck owners had to activate their backup lights. Is the
Chilton
> book
> > lying to me?
>
>
> DC,
> First I wanted to say thanks! My mystery of what my bell shaped
> device near the oil filter was indeed the oil pressure transmitter. The
> wire had sheared off at the black plastic fitting on top of the sending
> unit. Made it look like a vacuum fitting!
>
> Hopefully, I can repay the favor now. I recently replaced the neutral
> safety switch on my 1974 F100 XLT Ranger. The previous owner had
> removed it from the steering column and just jumpered the wires. The
> truck would start in any gear. I went to the Ford Dealer in McKinney
> Texas and ordered a new one. It was about $70-80 if memory serves
> correctly. Kinda steep but factory original. It is mounted about 5
> inches up from the firewall, on the top of the steering column, inside
> the cab (not under the hood). If yours is missing it's tough to even
> see where it is mounted but trust me there is a mounting hole on top of
> the steering column. The unit consists of two parts. One is a steel
> post that clips to the steering column and moves when you shift from
> Park to Neutral to Drive etc.. The actual switch is mounted with two
> bolts right next to the vertical steel tab (on top of the column).
> There should be a standard Ford harness connector that will plug right
> into the switch.
> The switch can be adjusted by just sliding it back and forth until the
> truck starts properly in just Park and Neutral. Chilton's I believe
> says to use a No 43 drill bit as a gauge in a gauge hole in the switch
> to set the proper location of the switch. The switch does indeed
> control the backup lights. If your backup lights still don't work then
> you've got a wiring problem downstream from this switch.
> The switch does have sort of a press on tab for hooking up the harness
> connector.
> I know 1973-1979 parts are interchangeable but not sure if all of the
> above applies to your 1972.
> On my truck the vertical steel post had rusted through and sheared off
> and the switch had been yanked by someone who couldn't be bothered to
> fix it. Put your hand on top of the steering column near the firewall
> and see if you can feel the hole in the column where the steel post
> clips. The old one (at least the clip part) should still be there.
>
>
> Don
> Allen, Texas
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 17:07:40 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: speedometer question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Could be lost of things, the first I would suspect is a bad cable, replace
it. If you can't afford to replace it, remove it at the speedometer head
and shoot lithium grease into the cable housing. If the drive cable will
come out of the housing, pull it out and lube it.

----------
> From: DC Beatty
> To: 'FORD TRUCKS'
> Subject: speedometer question
> Date: Saturday, August 02, 1997 9:43 PM
>
> Greetings. My speedometer in my '67 F-100 is inaccurate (about 5 or 10
mph off I
> estimate), and the needle jumps around whenever I am driving under 40
mph. Does
> anyone know of a way of remedying this? I would hate to pay someone to
fix
> something that I could possibly fix.
>
> I guess I could just drive 50 mph or better everywhere I go. Hmmm....
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F-100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 18:53:33 -0400
From: "Wayne Bowen"
To:
Subject: Re: RE:Pinging
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Art your problem is that your running direct vac to the distributor. It
should have PORTED vaccum going to it NOT constant vaccum
Wayne Bowen
72 F100 360
89 Ranger 2.3L

----------
> From: art l
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: RE:Pinging
> Date: Saturday, August 02, 1997 11:43 PM
>
> I am running straight vaccum to the distributor. Is the vaccum can for
the
> distributor? Also, I have tried different grades of gas, has not helped
the
> problem. I am looking into rejetting the carburator. I'm runnung the
timing
> ten degrees advanced, any less and the engine runs very poorly. Thanks
Art
>
>
> 78 F-250 4X4 400M
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 06:47:10 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Question regarding paint colors
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: "Jim Strigas"
> > Subject: Re: Question regarding paint colors
> > Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 09:36:46 -0700
>
> > your not! Someone has to direct traffic around here. Someone
> > could be killed!
>
> You must be more countryfied than me Jim. Even a stray cow couldn't
> get itself kilt in this traffic! :-( Even it it went looking for
> something to jump in front of!

Was that there cow that was wearing the kilt playin bag pipes? Just
wanderin.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 06:58:18 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 460 Maximum Compression Ratio?
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Randy Collins wrote:
>
> List members,
>
> I am in the process of making the decision of the final compression ratio of my 460 motor for my project truck. I am confused!
>
> Most of the reading I have done indicates that the maximum compression for pump gas in around 9.5 : 1. Most folks also say that the 460 will tolerate slightly more compression and polishing the combustion chambers will give more tolerability. I have also read that the 460 will not detonate between 10.0 and 10.5 to 1 compression using premium pump fuel.
>
> I am getting conflicting information from the local machine shops. The say that the maximum compression ratio for the 460 is 9.0 to 9.25 to 1 and that's it. Any higher will cause sever detonation and soon thereafter will destroy the motor.
>
> Vehicle info.
>
> Really heavy truck.
> 4.10 gear ratio.
> 32.8" diameter tires
> C-6 Automatic
> 2200 RPM Stall
>
> Motor info.
>
> 429 SCJ Cast Iron Intake
> 750 Vacuum Holley
> C9VE Passenger Car heads matched to the CJ size ports
> Intake Ports: cleaned up
> Exhaust Ports: Hump removed, contoured and polished
> Combustion Chamber Polished
> Valve Size I = 2.190 E. = 1.725
> Crane Gold Roller Rockers
> Crane Cam #354551
> In. Lift: .524
> Ex. Lift .553
> Duration .050
> Intake 226 Degrees
> Exhaust 234 Degrees
> Lifters Variable Duration
> I plan to install the cam advanced 4 degrees
> Converter Stall 2200 RPM
>
> Please help me decide my final compression ratio. In the event that I end up with a compression ratio that is to high can I stack two head gaskets to lower it? Is it possible to purchase head gaskets other than the typical .041 thickness?
>
> I still need to buy new lifters. Anyone have any experience with the Rhoads variable duration or the Crane Hi-Intensity lifters.
>
> Thanks in advance for everyone's help.
>
> Randy Collins

Ear yeh yeh 10.5 to 1 DYNAMIC compression so what is the max static
which is what most people refer to? Depends on how you setup. My
sugestionis to run about 11.0:1 and run a Comp Cam 268 or 270 single
grind cam for street balance the engine and pocket port it/match the
intake (a Eddlebrock preformer RPM and you'll enjoy runablity with good
89 or moderate 92 octane fuel running a start advance of 10 to 14 BTDC
and a full advance of 20 to 24 BTDC.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 07:02:21 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: pinging
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

art l wrote:
>
> I have a 78 F-250 4x4 400M, it has a performer manafold and Carter AFB 4v
> carberator.The problem is when ever I pull my boat or get into the mortor
> hard it pings like crazy, and starts to overheat. These problems all
> started we we made the carburator changes, when we put the carb on,we took
> off the vacum hose that comes off the thermostat housingand one that runs
> off the back of the motor up to the vacum can,(I thinkthats where it
> went).The vacum for the distributer comes off the carb now. What I would
> like to know is if there are any book or diagrams that will tell me how to
> hook these vacum lines back up. This is the only thing I can think that we
> changed when the new carb was put on, also the egr valve was not put back
> on. I have the Ford service manuel for the 78 Ford and it shows nothing of
> the vacum hoses, and I think this is what is causing my problems, it cause
> the carb to run too lean, or does anybody else have a different idea.
> Thanks Art Lutz
>
> 79 F-250 4x4 400M
hook the advance vacuum line to the manifold. You are not getting
enough vacuum to hold it open durring exceleration.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 07:08:20 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Question for the Ford guru's
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Also, from what I have read, if one is to be used for race applications, you
> need to make some of the oil passages bigger.

Actually you do not make the passages bigger you put a restriction into
the heads just below the rocker arm rail supports to force bitter
oiling; otherwise at higher RPM's the oil all goes to the head and
starves the bottom end.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 19:39:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE:Pinging
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I am running straight vaccum to the distributor. Is the vaccum can for the
>distributor? Also, I have tried different grades of gas, has not helped the
>problem. I am looking into rejetting the carburator. I'm runnung the timing
>ten degrees advanced, any less and the engine runs very poorly. Thanks Art
>
>
>78 F-250 4X4 400M
>

The vacuum can is not for the distributor. It is to provide vacuum to
vacuum operated accessories when manifold vacuum is low (ie, WOT). The
distributor should be hooked up directly to the carburator. I believe the
AFB (3000 series AFB) has 2 ports, one ported, the other non-ported. If
you have an automatic (and your AFB was set-up for an automatic), use the
ported vacuum (right next to the PCV port). The other port is for vacuum
operated accessories (goes to the can).

Rejetting may help, particularly if you are running too lean. A speed shop
may be able to help you determine what jets you should be running (the AFB
is the same as the Eldebrock carbs). An oxygen sensor would be helpful,
otherwise, you will need to learn to 'read the plugs'.

While on the subject of plugs, a lower temp spark plug could also help.

Removing the EGR may also have contirbuted.

Your distributor may also need rebuilding. If you 'recurved' your
mechanical advance, you may want to drop it back a bit (stronger springs).

In short, all (most) of the things done to increase performance can also
lead to pinging (spark knock or detonation). The ping or knock is caused
by the piston closing on an exploding cylinder. This can be because the
spark plug is firing too soon (a timing issue) or that there is a hot spot
in the combustion chamber that causes the charge to explode before the plug
fires (detonation). If there is a hot spot, you may experience 'run-on'
after the ignition is turned off. Carbon build-up in the cylinder can
contribute to this.

Be advised that this condition is very hard on your engine. It also
severely robs performance, defeating the purpose of making the changes you
made. If you are going to use this vehicle for towing (like you said in
your original post), you may want to re-think your performance
modifications.

chris north

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 18:08:06 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: pinging
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>hook the advance vacuum line to the manifold. You are not getting
>enough vacuum to hold it open durring exceleration.

Agreed, but why? Is it because the Carter AFB or the Performer intake. How
will it deal with the vacuum at idle. The "S" port is above the throttle at
idle. isn't there more vacuum below the throttle valve at this time? I was
thinking that a "Y" connection. From the manifold to the "S" port with a one
way valve then to the vacuum advance. That way at idle the low pressure
manifold would feed from the high pressure of the "S" port and at WOT both
"S" port and manifold are low pressure actuating the vacuum advance.

>Was that there cow that was wearing the kilt playin bag pipes?

Ya it was! Would you mind finding that cow and getting my kilt? This bush
has thorns and is starting draw blood! She can keep the bag pipes! probably
cud lipped it. Oh Ya! Daver! Tell her we're finished!!! Want a little milk?
Ha, last time I fall for that line of Bull!

Hurry back Daver, I'm getting cold!


Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's new. It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 21:02:27 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Wanted parts or info
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Looking for the following parts for my '68 F-250 240ci-6 4-spd, or a
contact to obtain them:

Dash pad, preferably red, no cracks or damage
Floor pan
Windshield and gasket
Seat, prefer good condition, but if recoverable OK.
Exhaust header
4-bbl intake manifold for Holley 390 or equivalent

Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 22:13:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Chistopher S. Vance"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #137
Message-ID:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

hey man. get me the hell off this list!
UNSUBSCRIBE



| Christopher S. Vance |
| http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.muw.edu/~csv |
| csv muw.edu |


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 10:33:28 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: pinging
Message-ID:
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> Ya it was! Would you mind finding that cow and getting my kilt? This bush
> has thorns and is starting draw blood! She can keep the bag pipes! probably
> cud lipped it. Oh Ya! Daver! Tell her we're finished!!! Want a little milk?
> Ha, last time I fall for that line of Bull!
>
> Hurry back Daver, I'm getting cold!
>
> Jim Strigas

Hey Jim this is udderly rediculas. You know a heffer like that'll tear
yer Kilt and besides I have milked this for all I can get out of it.

Molater

Daver

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Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 23:07:53 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Question regarding paint colors
Message-Id:
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Nah, it was hanging from a bill board mooing "Eat more Chicken."....

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