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------------------------------

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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 136

Today's Topics:

Re: Oil Pressure Gauge ["George Shepherd"
Re: Gauge theory 101... ["George Shepherd"
Oh no, not another gague question! [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Oh no, not another gague questio ["George Shepherd"
Re: cruising speed [Daver ]
Need advice on model of Ford car [Randall Colgan
RE: question for ford gurus [BigDogF250 aol.com ]
Re: cruising speed [daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike ) ]
ADMIN: July archives up and more... [Ken Payne ]
Re: Suspension and axles .. [Don Grossman ]
RE: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion [DC Beatty
Re: question for ford gurus [Don Grossman ]
Speedometers and Physics [sidereal epix.net ]
Re: Suspension and axles .. [sidereal epix.net ]
Re: Gauge theory 101. [sdelanty sonic.net ]
More info on F250 Crew Cabs wanted ["Brett McCoy"
Re: Question for the Ford guru's [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: 1967 backup lights ["Donald R. Screen"
Re: Question for the Ford guru's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 17:31:33 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Gauge
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In this case the guages work behind a voltage regulator which reduces the
voltage to about 5 or so volts. Check your schematic to determine its
location, but its generally on the back side of the guage panel on the
dashboard. Since line voltage varies so much, they use a voltage dropping
regulator to keep a constant, but low voltage for the guages.

----------
> From: The Zahn's
> To: FORD TRUCK MESSAGE To:
> Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge
> Date: Thursday, July 31, 1997 11:56 PM
>
> hello all,
> After reading all the replies about 12v / 6v gauges I was wondering
about
> the oil pressure gauge that I put into my 71 F350. I changed the
> instrument panel to one with full gauges and in the process replaced the
> oil sending unit to one for a gauge. The one I got was a GP Sorensen
> OPS71 switch. It says P6V on the box and I was wondering if this means
> that it is for a 6 volt system instead of a 12 volt system. Or do the
> gauges work on 6 volts ? The reason I ask is because it registers very
> low all the time and I am hoping that it is the sending unit as opposed
to
> the oil pump, etc. Thanks for any help
> FredZ
>
> 71 F350 Utility
> 89 E350 Club Wagon
> 96 Taurus
> 94 Thunderbird
> 89 Corsica (ops)
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 17:37:39 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I think we covered this recently, might have been another news group,
wenever resolved the issue. Both are good to have for some reasons and
there are difficencies in both. If you have room for both, thats what I
think is best. If not both, personally I like the ammeter best. I/ve used
both and I think the ammeter has saved me more times than the volt meter.

----------
> From: Jim Strigas
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 5:47 AM
>
> Thanks Steve, good info!
>
> I hate to take this one farther but,,, I've been looking at amp &
volt
> meters for my truck. In the gauge sets you see one or the other. Which is
> better to have? The price being about the same which isn't very much,
would
> it be advantages to have both? I haven't noticed if there was a
description
> of the type of gauge it is in the store, but in my Summit catalog it
> doesn't. It only describes it being an ammeter or a voltmeter. Which
struck
> me as strange, why call it an ammeter not an ampmeter they don't call it
a
> volmeter! Disregard the last part.
> What should I look for in an aftermarket gauge for my truck, '73 F100
> 302. Thanks!
>
> Jim Strigas
> jstrigas worldnet.att.net
> It's new. It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas
> If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing
there
> for everyone!
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 15:57:18 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Oh no, not another gague question!
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I'm sorry, I really hate to do this, but I don't think it was covered in
either of the previous 2 gague threads. On a 50 F1, where do the gagues
get their current from? I checked the wiring diagram in my shop manual,
and it doesn't seem to show any hot wires going to the gauges--it shows
wires coming from the sending units, and then the gagues are all connected
by metal straps (I assume that's for ground)--but it doesn't show any
current (apart from what goes to the light bulbs). Did I miss something?

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 18:06:56 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: Oh no, not another gague question!
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The one wire going to the guage is the hot wire. The "sender" is a
resistance to ground instrument. At the guage "the reader or shower" the
other side of the guage from the sender is the hot side. That side is
connected to the 6v buss through a voltage regulator.

----------
> From: Dan Wentz
> To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
> Subject: Oh no, not another gague question!
> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 5:57 PM
>
> I'm sorry, I really hate to do this, but I don't think it was covered in
> either of the previous 2 gague threads. On a 50 F1, where do the gagues
> get their current from? I checked the wiring diagram in my shop manual,
> and it doesn't seem to show any hot wires going to the gauges--it shows
> wires coming from the sending units, and then the gagues are all
connected
> by metal straps (I assume that's for ground)--but it doesn't show any
> current (apart from what goes to the light bulbs). Did I miss something?
>
> ~Dan
>
> 1992 Ford Mustang LX
> 1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
> Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 06:06:02 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: cruising speed
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

HYDROSMITH aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a '77 F100 Ranger stepside short bed w/351w and a C4.
> Currently the rearend is a 9" w/a 2.75 ratio. I am looking at going to an AOD
> and am wondering what tire size and OD ratio I would need to keep the RPM's
> to 2,000 at 60 MPH? Right now with 235/60/R15's it turns 2600 RPM's at 60.
>
> If anybody has a formula please let me know soon as the AOD will not be
> available to me for much longer I think.
>
> Thanks, Tim

My bet is you actually have a 3.50:1 ratio; because if you had a 2.75:1
with your current trany at 2600 RPM you'd be sailing along at
73.415976+/- MPH.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 17:07:43 -0600
From: Randall Colgan
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Need advice on model of Ford car
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi gang. I want to take the body off of my 52 F-1 and drop it onto a 70's
(or later) model Ford car like a Cougar, Torino, Ltd, T-Bird chassis or a
model similar to these with a wheelbase very close to my F-1 which is 114"
and a rear drum to drum width of 60". Any sugestions?

Regards,
================
Randall Colgan
Civil Engineering
University of Alberta
Edmonton, Alberta
'52 Ford F-1 Truck
================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:48:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigDogF250 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: question for ford gurus
Message-ID:

The 360 was replaced by the 460 for basically the obvious reason: more power.
The term 'highboy' in hot rodders definition is a late 20's early 30's car
without fenders, im assuming that what they mean by truck highboy is that it
is lifted or has oversized tires, not really sure on that.
Matt
92 f250 4x4 5.8L

P.S. Welcome to the club

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:11:13 -0600
From: daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike )
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: cruising speed
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

could yall re post the formula for determining the speed/ratio rpm
Thanks..

Mike.

>HYDROSMITH aol.com wrote:
>>
>> I have a '77 F100 Ranger stepside short bed w/351w and a C4.
>> Currently the rearend is a 9" w/a 2.75 ratio. I am looking at going to an AOD
>> and am wondering what tire size and OD ratio I would need to keep the RPM's
>> to 2,000 at 60 MPH? Right now with 235/60/R15's it turns 2600 RPM's at 60.
>>
>> If anybody has a formula please let me know soon as the AOD will not be
>> available to me for much longer I think.
>>
>> Thanks, Tim
>
>My bet is you actually have a 3.50:1 ratio; because if you had a 2.75:1
>with your current trany at 2600 RPM you'd be sailing along at
>73.415976+/- MPH.
>
>Molater
>
>Daver
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 22:26:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: ADMIN: July archives up and more...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

July archives are now on the web site.
If you go to the web site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com
and hit the reload button on your web browser you'll also
see that a new button has been added to the main page.
This is the "About" button. For those of you who have inquired
about this in the past: the button brings you to pictures and
descriptions of me and my family and my 67 F100 project. Sorry,
I know many of you hate web pages of people's families but this
is a side page, not the Ford Truck Enthusiast's main content.

Later,
-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 20:10:41 -0700
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Suspension and axles ..
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: sidereal epix.net
> > Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 15:20:36 -0400
> > Subject: Suspension and axles ..
>
> > >> Gary: My 78 F250 4X4 has dual piston front calipers. The truck
> > >> is rated at 8500 GVW, so if this helps the discussion.
> > >
> > >I wonder if they fit the same mount frame as the f-150 and broncos?
> > > In other words are they interchangeable with them?
> >
> > To the best of my knowledge, the body and frame for all the F-series
> > are identical ... the difference in what makes them a 100, 150, 250,
>
> I call it a frame for lack of a better word. I mean the thing the
> caliper fits into which holds it on the axle like the backing plate
> does for the drum brakes. So my question is if the dual piston
> caliper will fit where the cast iron single pistion one goes on a
> bronco or F-150 without changing the mount, hanger, holder doflingy?

The calipers are of different sizes. The 150 single piston caliper is
about 6" between the bracket and the 250 twin piston is near to 10"
between the bracket. It just won't fit. The caliper is also mounted
further out from the axle centerline. This would put the rotor right in
the middle of the caliper anyway.

You will have to change the knuckle spindle and cliper mounting bracket
or frame as you called it.

> On a Dana 44 it's the steering arm/yoke/spindle thingy that holds it
> which is a forging. On a rear axle it might be a stamped plate of
> some kind which bolts to the 4 bolt flange on the end of the axle
> like the backing plate for the brake shoes.
>
> -- Gary Peters --

--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: 01 Aug 97 23:29:36 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion
Message-ID:

To my knowledge the dual calipers came in the F250's designated as "heavy duty."
They have dual caliper pistons and 2" wide shoes on the back as opposed to 1
3/4" wide.

Hope this helps,

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 3:47 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion

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From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion
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It shows in my Haynes '73 thru '79 F100 & Bronco manual the heavy duty disc
have dual pistons in the outer housing of the caliper, however I don't see
where it says what models they came with! My '73 F100 has light duty
calipers up front.
Had a dime, just thought I'd drop it here! Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's new. It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!



____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 20:41:49 -0700
From: Don Grossman
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: question for ford gurus
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

BigDogF250 aol.com wrote:
>
> The 360 was replaced by the 460 for basically the obvious reason: more power.
> The term 'highboy' in hot rodders definition is a late 20's early 30's car
> without fenders, im assuming that what they mean by truck highboy is that it
> is lifted or has oversized tires, not really sure on that.
> Matt
> 92 f250 4x4 5.8L
>
> P.S. Welcome to the club

The term "Highboy" was just because of the profile of the truck.
Starting in 59 when Ford first started making their own 4x4's they sat
higher than the 2x's buy almost three inches in the F250. This ended in
mid 77. Ford changed the suspension for a better ride, going from 6
front leaf to a 2 leaf set up and lowered the front of the truck for
better aerodynamics and all that enviro stuff. It wasn't a "lift kit"
or anything they just came from the factory that way. Even the F100
andF150 sat a little higher as a 4x up until 77.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 23:55:00 -0400
From: sidereal epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Speedometers and Physics
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I have a '77 F100 Ranger stepside short bed w/351w and a C4.
>Currently the rearend is a 9" w/a 2.75 ratio. I am looking at going to an AOD
>and am wondering what tire size and OD ratio I would need to keep the RPM's
>to 2,000 at 60 MPH? Right now with 235/60/R15's it turns 2600 RPM's at 60.
>
>If anybody has a formula please let me know soon as the AOD will not be
>available to me for much longer I think.
>
>Thanks, Tim

If this is built like any of the vehicles I have been under, the
speedometer drive gear
meshes with the output shaft of the transmission (or transfer case if there
is one).
The main difference here would be in the circumference of the output shaft
and tire size.
Your C4 is direct drive in high gear, which is the same ratio as the next
gear lower than overdrive in the AOD, so long as the output shafts are the
same size, your speedometer will
read just as accurately, regardless of transmission. If not, then you need
the speedometer
drive gear from the transmission you are installing, or use the formula :

actual MPH = indicated MPH x new trans shaft dia. / original trans shaft dia.
The tach reading is taken at the coil, so this is independent of the trans.

Hope this helps somewhat ..

== Serian



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Aug 1997 00:21:04 -0400
From: sidereal epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Suspension and axles ..
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I call it a frame for lack of a better word. I mean the thing the
>caliper fits into which holds it on the axle like the backing plate
>does for the drum brakes.

Yeop ... understood ...

>So my question is if the dual piston
>caliper will fit where the cast iron single pistion one goes on a
>bronco or F-150 without changing the mount, hanger, holder doflingy?

I wouldn't think so; I would think that the caliper holder piece on the
axle of a F250 would be larger than that on a Bronco or F150 (and thus the
caliper larger), since the brake rotor for the 250 is larger than the
150/Bronco, and requires larger brake parts.
Also, because of the larger rotors size of the F250, I would think that
just changing the caliper mounting bracket (putting the one from the 250 on
the Bronco) wouldn't work all that well.

>On a Dana 44 it's the steering arm/yoke/spindle thingy that holds it
>which is a forging. On a rear axle it might be a stamped plate of
>some kind which bolts to the 4 bolt flange on the end of the axle
>like the backing plate for the brake shoes.

What you might be able to do here is to change the entire spindle assembly,
brake bracket, caliper and rotor, and hub on each side. I am not certain,
but I think that some models of the F250 4x4 (light duty) used the Dana 44
front axle, and essentially this would be what you would be "creating" by
doing this (Though it would fit a front suspension with radius arms and
coil springs rather than one with leaf springs). It would result in
needing to use 8-lug 16" or 16.5" rims on that axle, and you would have to
find a 10.25" 8-lug rear axle with the same gear ratio for the back to make
the truck ride properly, use the same rims on front and back, and not look
strange. This, of course would make the speedometer read inaccurately
without some sort of adapter gear. Cant think of any other way to go about
it ... 'tis a lot of work.


== Serian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 22:57:34 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101.
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> I hate to take this one farther but,,, I've been looking at amp & volt
>meters for my truck. In the gauge sets you see one or the other. Which is
>better to have? The price being about the same which isn't very much, would
>it be advantages to have both?

Well, the best situation is to have both a volt AND an amp gauge...

That way I know what the system voltage is AND what the charge
current is. (or isn't..)

If I had too choose one or other, I'd go with a good accurate voltmeter
plus the stock idiot light.

That way I know what the system voltage is and whether it's charging
or not....

With just a ammeter You only know what the charge current is or ain't
but nuthin else.

The bottom line is how much VOLTAGE the system sees when loaded,
that's Your best indicator.
13.2 - 14.2 with motor running is nice. A little more or less *may*
be OK too, depending on load conditions.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 21:51:16 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
To:
Subject: More info on F250 Crew Cabs wanted
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi everybody,

I just started tracking and I have to say I am impressed so far! Great
data and good humor from time to time. In any case here is my question. I
picked up a 79 F250 crew cab a few months ago. The truck is great!
460/V4, auto, A/C tilt delay wipers basically the works. What I would like
to find out is how many of this type of truck Ford made in 79? I know that
the total number of F250 is huge, but suspect that the crew cabs may be a
little less common. To my surprise I have seen several references to them
already. Also was the seven foot box standard or special order? Any info
or reference material that I could get would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
-Brett

Keep your eye on the road and your foot on the floor.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 22:57:45 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Question for the Ford guru's
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>I've got my eye on a f250 for sale but I'm not up to speed on Ford
>knowledge. Could I get some opinions? Its a 1975 vintage with 390 and 4
>speed, two wheel drive, crew cab with a short bed. I don't plan to much
>towing with it, just haul the family and such. Power steering, power
>brakes, a/c(not a factory installed unit, most of the guts are in the cab
>and seems to be about the same age as the truck). How reliable is the 390
>engine design?

The 390 is part of the FE family.
The FE390 is about as reliable as gravity.
The FE family includes: 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428, and others.
It has motivated an amazing variety of Ford products.
It powered Edsels in 1958. It *seriously* kicked ass at LeMans for
severals years in a row in the late 60's. The FE has been used in
millions of F100- F600 trucks, millions of galaxies and LTD's,
Mustang GT390's ...and (oh yeah), 427 shelby cobras... (-:
The FE427 cammer produced 615+ HP... (drool...)
FE's have a rich and well respected history.
Lots of reliable, trouble free torque and HP is available from an FE390.

>I assume parts are still fairly plentiful and cheap.

Yep. plentiful for both stock and aftermarket stuff.

> Any
>downfalls of the FE engine?

Err, I've gotten a couple speeding tickets with mine...

>They look fairly robust but why were the FE's
>replaced by the 460?

Yeah, plenty robust, but technology marches on...? The 460 offers more
displacement for the same weight. Some say the 460 is more thermally
efficient than the FE390, but it doesn't seem to show up in specific
brake fuel consumption charts or owner MPG surveys.

I've also seen *several* 460's at the wreckers with thrown rods..
What's that all about...?

It's pretty hard to go wrong with a 390.

Love my FE390,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Aug 1997 07:27:56 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 1967 backup lights
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

DC Beatty wrote:
>
> The backup lights don't work in my '67 F-100. The Chilton book states that I
> should have a little switch on the steering column by the shift lever. I got the
> switch at the boneyard and installed it and they still don't work. There are no
> wires going to the FMX tranny.
>
> Many of the '67-'72 trucks at the boneyard didn't have a switch either. Instead,
> there was a sort of jumper wire on the push-on terminal that would plug into the
> switch. Mine was exactly like these others that I saw. I was wondering what
> other '67 truck owners had to activate their backup lights. Is the Chilton book
> lying to me?


DC,
First I wanted to say thanks! My mystery of what my bell shaped
device near the oil filter was indeed the oil pressure transmitter. The
wire had sheared off at the black plastic fitting on top of the sending
unit. Made it look like a vacuum fitting!

Hopefully, I can repay the favor now. I recently replaced the neutral
safety switch on my 1974 F100 XLT Ranger. The previous owner had
removed it from the steering column and just jumpered the wires. The
truck would start in any gear. I went to the Ford Dealer in McKinney
Texas and ordered a new one. It was about $70-80 if memory serves
correctly. Kinda steep but factory original. It is mounted about 5
inches up from the firewall, on the top of the steering column, inside
the cab (not under the hood). If yours is missing it's tough to even
see where it is mounted but trust me there is a mounting hole on top of
the steering column. The unit consists of two parts. One is a steel
post that clips to the steering column and moves when you shift from
Park to Neutral to Drive etc.. The actual switch is mounted with two
bolts right next to the vertical steel tab (on top of the column).
There should be a standard Ford harness connector that will plug right
into the switch.
The switch can be adjusted by just sliding it back and forth until the
truck starts properly in just Park and Neutral. Chilton's I believe
says to use a No 43 drill bit as a gauge in a gauge hole in the switch
to set the proper location of the switch. The switch does indeed
control the backup lights. If your backup lights still don't work then
you've got a wiring problem downstream from this switch.
The switch does have sort of a press on tab for hooking up the harness
connector.
I know 1973-1979 parts are interchangeable but not sure if all of the
above applies to your 1972.
On my truck the vertical steel post had rusted through and sheared off
and the switch had been yanked by someone who couldn't be bothered to
fix it. Put your hand on top of the steering column near the firewall....


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