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fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 135

Today's Topics:

Re: Gas splashing back out of 1974 F [Z ]
Re: Gauge theory 101... [flat-head juno.com (Hardware Boy) ]
Re: Question for the Ford guru's [Daver ]
Oil Pressure Gauge ["The Zahn's"
cruising speed [HYDROSMITH aol.com ]
Spare Parts, 50 F1 [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion ["Jim Strigas"
Re: Gauge theory 101... ["Jim Strigas"
Re: cruising speed ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Gauge theory 101... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Dura Spark II, Continuing Saga ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Question for the Ford guru's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
-Different Gauge Question [kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel ) ]
Gas sloshing out filler neck [Leon Atkinson ]
Dura Spark, copy? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck [Leon Atkinson ]
Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Suspension and axles .. [sidereal epix.net ]
Re: Suspension and axles .. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 17:02:48 -0700
From: Z
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas splashing back out of 1974 F250 filler tube.
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Keith,

I have a 1975 Ford F250 with two tanks - its fill tubes extend about a
half inch outside the sheetmetal - this was the factory set-up then.
Same thing occurs unless you insert the pump tip upside down. In other
words, the pump handle and hose should point towards 12 o'clock. To
compound this dribble problem - I lived in California where the pumps
are outfitted with vapor recovery tubes - (a black plastic accordion
sleeve over the nozzel). If pump nozzel wasn't inverted and vapor
recovery tube not aligned with truck's tank filler inlet - gas would
come rushing down the side of my truck. Over the years, the best advice
given to me is that which I give you.

Good Luck,
(it will take a little practice)

Alex
1975 Ford F250



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 16:01:04 -0600
From: flat-head juno.com (Hardware Boy)
To: sdelanty sonic.net
Cc: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
Message-ID:

FORDTRUCK content: I didn't know that Ford ever used the magnetic needle
type gauges. Learn something new every day.
(err, was that good enough, Ken?)

Happy motoring and may Your gauges always be accurate,

Steve Delanty
--------------snip----------------
That was a cool post and I hope the poor guy who asked the original
question isn't sorry for joining the list now. I have a '49 F-3 and to my
knowledge, all F-1, F-2,F-3 trucks used that type of gauge. I don't know
about F-4 thru F-46 trucks or cars.
Since you Know all about gauges, Is there one that'll tell me what my
wife really means when she says something or at least the answer she
wants me to give?
Thanx,
Mike Wright

---The two Major items to
---come out of Berkeley are
---UNIX and LSD.
---This is probably not a coincidence.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:32:32 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Question for the Ford guru's
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Paul wrote:
>
> I've got my eye on a f250 for sale but I'm not up to speed on Ford
> knowledge. Could I get some opinions? Its a 1975 vintage with 390 and 4
> speed, two wheel drive, crew cab with a short bed. I don't plan to much
> towing with it, just haul the family and such. Power steering, power
> brakes, a/c(not a factory installed unit, most of the guts are in the cab
> and seems to be about the same age as the truck). How reliable is the 390
> engine design? I assume parts are still fairly plentiful and cheap. Any
> downfalls of the FE engine? They look fairly robust but why were the FE's
> replaced by the 460? Any advantage of the T-18 vs New Process 4 speeds that
> were installed in that year? I've read that there are some early power
> steering units to stay away from and that Ford used them through the 1975
> model years. How do I identify the junk P/S from the good?
> What changes did Ford make to their trucks that make the 1977
> through 1979 model years more desirable that the earlier 70's models lacked?
> What does the term "highboy" mean and does it have anything to do with the
> crew cab? I've seen it mentioned in a few of the for sale ads. I have
> always liked the style of the 70's Ford trucks and they seem to be built
> well also. The truck will be in the family for a while and any advice on
> the best years and equipment will be useful.
>
> Thanks---soon to be Ford truck owner.

FE's rule!!!!!!! If you buy the truck and change to a 460 I'll buy the
390.

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 21:56:07 -0700
From: "The Zahn's"
To: "FORD TRUCK MESSAGE To:"
Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

hello all,
After reading all the replies about 12v / 6v gauges I was wondering about
the oil pressure gauge that I put into my 71 F350. I changed the
instrument panel to one with full gauges and in the process replaced the
oil sending unit to one for a gauge. The one I got was a GP Sorensen
OPS71 switch. It says P6V on the box and I was wondering if this means
that it is for a 6 volt system instead of a 12 volt system. Or do the
gauges work on 6 volts ? The reason I ask is because it registers very
low all the time and I am hoping that it is the sending unit as opposed to
the oil pump, etc. Thanks for any help
FredZ

71 F350 Utility
89 E350 Club Wagon
96 Taurus
94 Thunderbird
89 Corsica (ops)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 01:18:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: HYDROSMITH aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: cruising speed
Message-ID:

I have a '77 F100 Ranger stepside short bed w/351w and a C4.
Currently the rearend is a 9" w/a 2.75 ratio. I am looking at going to an AOD
and am wondering what tire size and OD ratio I would need to keep the RPM's
to 2,000 at 60 MPH? Right now with 235/60/R15's it turns 2600 RPM's at 60.

If anybody has a formula please let me know soon as the AOD will not be
available to me for much longer I think.

Thanks, Tim

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 23:05:23 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Spare Parts, 50 F1
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I don't want anyone to think I'm spamming them, but I've added a list of
parts off my truck that I don't need anymore to my webpage. They're either
extras or have been replaced with newer technology. Again, I'm not going
into business, I just have some stuff that might be useful to someone
else--particularly someone building a stock 48-52 F1. The address is in my
sig--once you're there hit the link that says "spare parts". Thanks.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 02:45:46 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: Bronco 3/4 ton axle conversion
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It shows in my Haynes '73 thru '79 F100 & Bronco manual the heavy duty disc
have dual pistons in the outer housing of the caliper, however I don't see
where it says what models they came with! My '73 F100 has light duty
calipers up front.
Had a dime, just thought I'd drop it here! Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's new. It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 03:47:07 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks Steve, good info!

I hate to take this one farther but,,, I've been looking at amp & volt
meters for my truck. In the gauge sets you see one or the other. Which is
better to have? The price being about the same which isn't very much, would
it be advantages to have both? I haven't noticed if there was a description
of the type of gauge it is in the store, but in my Summit catalog it
doesn't. It only describes it being an ammeter or a voltmeter. Which struck
me as strange, why call it an ammeter not an ampmeter they don't call it a
volmeter! Disregard the last part.
What should I look for in an aftermarket gauge for my truck, '73 F100
302. Thanks!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's new. It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 08:24:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: cruising speed
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: HYDROSMITH aol.com
> Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 01:18:39 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: cruising speed

> to an AOD and am wondering what tire size and OD ratio I would need
> to keep the RPM's to 2,000 at 60 MPH? Right now with 235/60/R15's it
> turns 2600 RPM's at 60.

I don't know how you're getting 2600 rpms out of that
combination??? Here's the Excel formula I use:

=((((5280*$16)*12)/60)/(3.1416*$13))*$15

B16 is the speed in MPH
B15 is the diff ratio
C13 is the tire diameter in inches

The result is the drive shaft RPM. To find overdrive RPM just divide
the result by the overdrive ratio:

speed = 60
diff ratio = 2.75
tire dia = 29
overdrive = 1.20

((((5280 * 60 * 12) / 60) / (3.1416 * 29)) * 2.75 = 1912 RPM

1912 RPM / 1.2 = 1593.33 RPM with overdrive

For you sharp shooters out there, the formula does not take into
account the laden tire diameter but that number can be used instead
of measured, unladen diameter of course with the same accurate
results. And for you programmers out there, I know all the
parentheses were not necessary but I'm lazy and old and don't want to
try to remember precedence when I'm trying to think at the same time
so I use them to make sure it does what I expect :-)

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 08:53:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: "Jim Strigas"
> Subject: Re: Gauge theory 101...
> Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 03:47:07 -0700

> meters for my truck. In the gauge sets you see one or the other.
> Which is better to have? The price being about the same which isn't

Can't recommend a specific brand or type but the ammeter will tell
you if your system is charging or not or if the alternator is keeping
up with demands but won't tell you HOW it's doing it. The volt meter
will tell you how much over voltage you have (or not) and whether or
not it's being over charged etc. so I plan on using both in my new,
custom dash, someday when I can justify spending the $3-500 for the
gauges and materials I want to use, someday, someday.........

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 10:00:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Dura Spark II, Continuing Saga
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

Ok, I have my Chilton's 79 and Peterson's 79 in front of me right now
so I'm going to try to fill in the blanks. It turns out that Dura
Spark I might be a better choice since it has a higher output but I'm
not familiar with it so I won't get into that right now.

In 73 Ford used electronic ignition on 460 Lincolins. In 74 all
models with 400 or 460 engines in the US and 6's sold in CA. In 77
they came out with Dura Spark I and II, the I being for CA and the II
for everyone else. In 78 everything went to Dura Spark II except CA
302's.

The 75 version (my first experience) had three wires in the power
plug, one being blue which was used for transient voltage protection.
This version is not the best IMHO since it requires and extra wire
from the ballast resistor to the module and, apparently, a different
ballast resistor with some diode function or choke. The "blue" seal
version which has two power wires will work on systems 76 and later (
and probably any others as well if converting from points) and is the
best IMHO since it contains a Zeiner diode to handle the transients
so the blue wire is not needed.

I don't want to get into advising mixing and matching existing Dura
Spark system parts here, my primary focus is on how to convert to
electronic from points and I keep insisting that you get all your
parts from the same engine so they match up. The only question may
still be the red and white wires which is pretty easy to fix by
switching them if necessary.

Now for the orange and purple thing. Apparently this was changed
when the blue wire was eliminated in 76 and the chasis harness was
not changed so the color coding is wrong on some models and some
replacement harnesses. The result of switching these two wires is a
system 22.5 degrees out of phase which is sufficient to keep the
engine from starting in most cases. This was apparently not a
deliberate change but an oversight by Ford during the change over in
76. I suspect that if you buy new parts and hook them up to an
existing system you are unlikely to run into this but keep it in mind
anyway, just in case. My bronco required that the red and white
wires be switched which isn't referred to in any of my manuals???

If you follow instrctions in my "Continued" post it should work out
fine for you. If you have any questions, today would be the day to
ask since I have the manuals in front of me. BTH, the 78 truck
service manuals were sadly lacking in any of this information and the
diagrams were very ambiguous so as to be useless in this context.

Most (if not all) the tests for this system can be found in Haynes
manuals for the earlier vehicles up to about 84. My Tempo manual has
good information and shematics on this but for Canadian vehicles. A
truck manual between 77 and 84 vintage would probably have all the
right stuff and help you understand what you need to do in a
conversion better than my explainations.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 10:12:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Question for the Ford guru's
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:32:32 -0500
> From: Daver
> Subject: Re: Question for the Ford guru's

> > as the truck). How reliable is the 390 engine design? I assume
> > parts are still fairly plentiful and cheap. Any downfalls of the
> > FE engine? They look fairly robust but why were the FE's replaced
> > by the 460? Any advantage of the T-18 vs New Process 4 speeds

The FE engine used a 2.75" diameter main journal which allows a bit
more rpm without damaging the bearings and made the crank lighter
for less inertia and quicker revs. It also had more factory designed
hot rod intakes and heads and could be had with quadrajet carbs etc..
It's considered a big block but isn't quite as heavy as the 385
series. I understand the 428 parts are still made by after market
companies and is well supported but I doubt if the other versions are
any more to the same extent. The transmission flange is much
different (more circle shaped) than the modern big block as well
requiring different transmissions or bell housings and input shafts
etc. and of course the mounts are totally different.

Both the T-18 and NP435 are heavy duty granny trannys and I haven't
heard any bad words on either one yet so I can't say for sure. I
understand Ford used the T-19 on some models and it's a heavier duty
version than the T-18 but not sure.

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:41:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel )
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: -Different Gauge Question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

You may want to install a 100 to 175 amp fuse
(yes they make them, and I sell them)
at the battery to protect against electrical fires.
Some vehicles have fuseable links to protect against this,
but I hate changing those. Fuses seem the answer, and all
new vehicles now use maxi-fuses instead of fusable links.

Kelly.



>This wire is the primary cause of underdash fires, it carries the full
>load of the charging system. Any short or overload and it can go up in
>smoke. I notice most modern vehicles either use a signal light or a
>voltmeter instead to avoid the problem.
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>
-- The Spongbergs --
Kelly, Colleen, & Dallas

"Keep your stick on the ice."
Red Green (aka Steve Smith)

email - kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 08:52:30 -0700
From: Leon Atkinson
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Gas sloshing out filler neck
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I bought a 56 F100 about a month ago and one of the first things I knew
I wanted to fix on it was the gas filler neck. It looked really chewed up
(someone hit with a hammer, perhaps?) and when driving around gas would
slosh out around the rim. Yeah, I had the cap on tight. So, it set me
back almost fifty bucks, but I got a new neck, grommet and connecting hose.
Gas still sloshes out, though not as bad. But it is bad enough that if
I have a full tank, I can't have the passenger's window down.

For those unfamiliar, the tank is in the cab, behind the seat, and it
exits the body just behind the passenger's door near the handle.

The filler neck has a slight bend in it about two-thirds down and did my
best to put it pointing the same as the old one, but maybe the old one was
in wrong. It seems like it would be harder for gas to get out if I put the
bend pointing down instead of more towards the back. But the effect would
probably minor.

Is this just a feature of Ford gas tanks or is something wrong? Comments
would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Leon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 11:52:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Dura Spark, copy?
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

Sorry, I seem to have lost my copy of yesterday's "Dura Spark II,
Continued" version where I explained how to actually hook it up. If
someone has a copy could you send it to me direcly? Thanks :-)

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 12:05:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 08:52:30 -0700
> From: Leon Atkinson
> Subject: Gas sloshing out filler neck

> driving around gas would slosh out around the rim. Yeah, I had the
> cap on tight. So, it set me back almost fifty bucks, but I got a
> new neck, grommet and connecting hose. Gas still sloshes out, though
> not as bad. But it is bad enough that if I have a full tank, I

You didn't mention cap in your list. As I recall these caps have a
gasket which seals the rim. Is the gasket tapped out (no more spring
or resilaince)? Some of these also have springs in them like a
radiator cap as I recall which actually does the sealing by pressing
the gasket against the rim of the filler neck. It seems to me they
also had bleeder or vent holes in them which were kind of check
valved and had seals in them since the tanks were not vented back
then.

Turning the neck may cause the cap to sit at an odd angle if it is
already in the correct position. This should be easy to look for
when turning it to see how it fits etc..


-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 09:17:58 -0700
From: Leon Atkinson
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:05 PM 8/1/97 +0000, Gary wrote:
>You didn't mention cap in your list. As I recall these caps have a
>gasket which seals the rim. Is the gasket tapped out (no more spring
>or resilaince)? Some of these also have springs in them like a
>radiator cap as I recall which actually does the sealing by pressing
>the gasket against the rim of the filler neck. It seems to me they
>also had bleeder or vent holes in them which were kind of check
>valved and had seals in them since the tanks were not vented back
>then.

According to Sacramento's catalog, the caps are the same from the fifties
into the seventies. Since I got the cap from my Dad, rather than a catalog,
I can't say for sure it the right one, but it is exactly like the old one
and it goes on fairly tight. I'm sure everyone is familiar with this type
of cap. It's a dome-shape and on the bottom it has a cylinder with two
teeth 180 degrees apart. It has a cardboard disc that sits flush against
the filler neck rim when the cap is tight. There is a tiny breather hole
in the disk.

My Dad suggested finding (or making) a cap that fits tight and then adding
a breather tube on to the filler neck. Doesn't sound fun.

Leon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 12:36:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 09:17:58 -0700
> From: Leon Atkinson
> Subject: Re: Gas sloshing out filler neck

> According to Sacramento's catalog, the caps are the same from the
> fifties into the seventies. Since I got the cap from my Dad, rather
> than a catalog, I can't say for sure it the right one, but it is

I'm going from memory here but some of them had the gasket covering
the whole cap interior with bleeder holes in the gasket at the edges
to prevent direct spillage out the vent hole in the cap. This way
the gas could splash against the gasket and bounce back into the tank
and any that went into the space above the gasket, theoretically,
would drain back into the tank before the next splash. You could
probably make a cork gasket or even cardboard one which emulates this
idea to replace the one that's in there now. The problem with Gas is
that it can sneak out of the tinyest cracks or holes and make a real
mess just like fuel oil.

Another option is to get a sealed cap for newer tanks and put a port
in the tank or filler tube with hose running up to the air cleaner to
vent the tank. Better yet, many of the newer tanks have removable
pickup tube assy's which may be the same size as the ones on the
older tanks and could be used this way since they already have a
return line or vent built into them. I haven't looked at a 50's
vintage tank in a long time so I may be all wet here, just trying to
throw out some food for thought :-)

-- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 15:20:36 -0400
From: sidereal epix.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Suspension and axles ..
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>> Gary: My 78 F250 4X4 has dual piston front calipers. The truck is
>> rated at 8500 GVW, so if this helps the discussion.
>
>I wonder if they fit the same mount frame as the f-150 and broncos?
>In other words are they interchangeable with them?

To the best of my knowledge, the body and frame for all the F-series
are identical ... the difference in what makes them a 100, 150, 250, or 350
is which
suspension and drivetrain parts get installed at the factory. The front
suspension
on a Bronco and an F150 4x4 from what I can tell are identical too.
The difference with the F250 brakes on a Bronco might be that you would
have to
change the entire axle assembly because the F250 uses an 8-lug pattern and
larger rims
(thus probably a larger rotor for the brakes).

You probably could put the axles from a F250 4x4 on a bronco, but it would
be quite
a lot of work ...

== Serian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 17:07:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Suspension and axles ..
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

> From: sidereal epix.net
> Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 15:20:36 -0400....


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