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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 128

Today's Topics:

C-6 ["Rodney S. Richeson"
Re: gauges ["Jim Strigas"
Re: C-6 [daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike ) ]
Re: gauges [sdelanty sonic.net ]
Re: guages [sdelanty sonic.net ]
RE: dynamic vs static compression [Kevin Kemmerer ]
6volt guages on 12 volt ["Roger Fletcher"
Re: dynamic vs static compression [Daver ]
Re: 6volt guages on 12 volt [billjhs ]
Re: 6volt guages on 12 volt [Chris North ]
Re: gauges ["George Shepherd"
HELP Needed on 89 Power Windows [Bob LaDouceur ]
RE: thanks [DC Beatty
Re: HELP Needed on 89 Power Windows ["Jim Strigas"
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #12 [Fordf3 aol.com ]
RE: thanks [Ken Payne ]
Re: Will 429 fit a 77 f150 [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Moly rings [reedg ns2.cetlink.net ]
Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #12 [kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel ) ]

Administrivia:

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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 21:58:18 +0000
From: "Rodney S. Richeson"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: C-6
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have gotten the truck home and am going to begin surgery tomorrow.
From the replies I am going to pull the pan and drain the fluid. I plan
to replace the filter also...

Someone said there might be a rubber part that needs to be replaced. Is
this something that can be done without pulling it clear out of the
truck? Also can I pull the valve body out from underneath without thing
sproinging about the garage floor? I haven't pulled a tranny apart
before, as you can tell.

I really appreciate the responses I have received thus far and would
like to thank everyone...


Rod
77.5 F-250 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 10:14:32 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 00:49:06 -0600
From: daffin satcom.whit.org (Mike )
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: C-6
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Rod:

I was the one telling about the rubber part.. Im not sure of the
location of this part... it may be able to be replaced from the open pan.. I
dont know off the top of my head.. I will check on monday with the shop I
had the xmission replaced at. i got this message too late to check with them
today for you.. but to describe it. it looks like a vacum valve.. round
and kinda like you would expect a space ship to look like.. it has a hose
openeing on each end.. the outside rings are the parts that get stiff with
old age.. this thing as it was described to me funnels tranny fluid to the
appropriate spots and if it is stiff it takes a second for it to move..
giving it the oldtimers disease..
Further.. you may want to check the modulator valve on the outside.. if you
have a vacum leak there it will cause your tranny not to shift correctly..
BTW I just had to deal with that too.. the hoses came off the modulator and
well its not funny when you are driving someone to the airport and you have
no second or third gear.. and you just had this fixed a week ago....... ok
so now its funny but you should have heard me on the way to the
airport..... Good luck on the rebuild.. also.. if you are going to
rebuild the tranny.. I understand that there are two kinds of clutch kits
available one is heavy duty. or green. that is the one they replace mine
with..

Mike.


>I have gotten the truck home and am going to begin surgery tomorrow.
>>From the replies I am going to pull the pan and drain the fluid. I plan
>to replace the filter also...
>
>Someone said there might be a rubber part that needs to be replaced. Is
>this something that can be done without pulling it clear out of the
>truck? Also can I pull the valve body out from underneath without thing
>sproinging about the garage floor? I haven't pulled a tranny apart
>before, as you can tell.
>
>I really appreciate the responses I have received thus far and would
>like to thank everyone...
>
>
>Rod
>77.5 F-250 4X4
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 00:42:33 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Hi, I have seen many responses to the gauge question but what values
>would be suited for the 12v to 6v conversion for the gauges???

Bill,

If You use a resistor, we can't tell You what value unless
You tell us how much current Your gauges draw.

V = R * I

To drop from 12 volts to 6 volts requires 6 ohms for a 1 amp draw,
3 ohms for 2 amps, 2 ohms for 3 amps, 1.5 ohms for 4 amps, ad nauseum..

We know the desired V.
If You tell us what Your "I" is, I'll tell You what "R" You want...

I suggest You beg or borrow a 6 volt battery or supply, hook Your
gauges up and measure the current draw with an ammeter.
sendors should all be attached.
You might get close by measuring the gauge resistance with an
ohmmeter, but bi-metalics change resistance quite a bit as they
warm up and actual gauge current also will vary a lot with
sendor position (I.E. gas gauge draws different current
on "full" then "empty") so this is not a very accurate way.

Picking resistor values at random is risking damage to Your gauges
if the voltage is too high or inaccurate readings if too low or if
voltage applied to gauge changes with sendor position...

Personally, I really prefer a somewhat regulated circuit rather
than a resistor for this type of application.

I sent an ASCII art schematic to Your address Bill, lemme know
if You still have questions.

Happy motoring,



Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 01:12:00 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: Re: guages
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>> >Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.

>> I have NO experience with this but couldn't you hook 2 of the gauges
>> in series?

>In theory it would cut the amperage in half it would also reduce the
>voltage to the second gauge in the series by the resistance of the
>first one so it would not function correctly.

Actually, the voltage to each gauge is proportional to their relative
impedances and doesn't matter which is first in line.

The real problem is that the currents thru the *senders* would
have to be in series also, and one gauge would affect the other.
Series isn't really an option for gauges.

>I've played with resistors some and discovered they heat up in direct
>proportion to the amount of work they have to do

2
Yup. W = I * R BTU's = Watthours * 3.415 Lotsa heat gets made.

>to reduce the
>amperage and voltage input so heat sinking them will get the job done
>up to a point. Choosing the right type of resistor is important as
>well.

2
Yup. V = I * R AND W = I * R You need to know how much current
*Your* gauges draw before You can choose ANYTHING....


>One advantage of the ballast resistor is that it is a ferrite wound
>coil which has the added advantage of reducing or "Choking" harmonic
>noise which should help with the gauges operation.

Bi-metallic gauges don't care about noise and trash as long
as the average voltage is stable.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

1971 F100 shortbox, FE390, T-18 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 12:39:21 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: "'fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: dynamic vs static compression
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

can someone explain to me how to calculate the loss of static =
compression due to valve overlap? you see, my next build will be a =
11.5:1 to 12.5:1 motor with a 300+ duration cam. from talking to engine =
systems (ford only builders) they have confirmed that with enough cam, =
these comp. ratios will work on pump gas just driving around on the =
street (its for a street truck), but i'll need to run race gas (klotz or =
similiar) when i hook it up to the sled (it's really built for truck =
pulling) or hammer the loud pedal through the mud bog (what a mess =
afterwards!) so there'll be no pinging - detonation - destruction...

now, i haven't seen anywhere any method for figuring out the actual loss =
of compression (which changes at different throttle positions and =
different rpms) depending on the static compression and the cam "size" =
including both overlap and the opening/closing points of the valves. =
also, how do i take into account the differences in intake and exhaust =
characteristics (single/dual plane, plenum volume etc.) as this changes =
the filling-emptying dynamics even furthur. at different operating =
conditions the dynamic compression changes and can actually become =
higher than static compression when the intake and exhaust are at their =
maximum efficiency - this is why a tunnel ram intake can build so much =
power - and why supercharged/turbo motors generally have lower static =
compression ratios.

can you help?

sleddog=20

----------
From: Daver[SMTP:f150 koyote.com]
Sent: Friday, July 25, 1997 10:12 AM
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Ok here's my theroy....

-- snip --
When setting the engine up choose your cam calculate your loss of
compression due to valve overlap then decide what compression ratio you
need to actually want to run (dynamic compression) the calculate the
static compression to allow your dynamic to be were you want it.=20
Example if you calc that you'll loss 2 points of compression to valve
overlap and you want to "run" a dynamic compression of 10:1 then your
static compression will have to be 12:1. if dynamic comp is to high you
get spontanious combustion aka desealing or a ping/preignition.

BTW water or steam injection is a trick you can use to raise comp
without ping by retarding or slowing the burn. Remember the high octane
the slower the burn.
--- snip ---

Molater

Daver


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 11:12:07 PDT
From: "Roger Fletcher"
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: 6volt guages on 12 volt
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

I have a 51 F-1, on mine I just used a Chrysler ballast resistor and
it's been running fine for several years, and at the right price too.
Good luck.

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 04:52:42 -0500
From: Daver
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: dynamic vs static compression
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Kevin Kemmerer wrote:
>
> can someone explain to me how to calculate the loss of static compression due to valve overlap? you see, my next build will be a 11.5:1 to 12.5:1 motor with a 300+ duration cam. from talking to engine systems (ford only builders) they have confirmed that with enough cam, these comp. ratios will work on pump gas just driving around on the street (its for a street truck), but i'll need to run race gas (klotz or similiar) when i hook it up to the sled (it's really built for truck pulling) or hamm
>
>
>
> can you help?
>
> sleddog

Ok I could give you the information but the explanations and examples
would eat up "mom's" band width for the day so let me do you one
better. Rather the explaning this by itself allow me to tell you were
to find this and a welth of information for calculating engine numbers.

there is a book that every racer needs it is:

Engine/drivetrain Performance Mathemattics & Theory
Writen By Vincent W. Robinson

the book includes the following:
-Cylinder Block Deck height
-Engine Displacement
-Cylinder to Crankshaft Stroke Ratio
-Connecting Rod Angularity
-Piston Displacement
-Cylender Volume (cubic inch displacment) As A Function of the Crank
Angle
-Average Piston Speed
-Instantaneous Piston Speed
-Static Compression
-Dynamic Compression Ratio
-Volumitric (Air Mass) Efficiency
-Break Mean Effective Pressure
-Break Tork
-Power / Horsepower / Brake Horsepower
-Camshaft Theory, Terms, Specs and Calculations
-Carburetor Air Flow
-Drivetrain--Overall Gear Ratio
-Transmission--Output Shaft Speed
-Rear End--Axle Speed
-Maximum Vehicle Speed

I think This is an excellent reference for all not only Hi Pro guy's

Molater

Daver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 20:32:04 -0400
From: billjhs
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 6volt guages on 12 volt
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Roger Fletcher wrote:

> I have a 51 F-1, on mine I just used a Chrysler ballast resistor and
> it's been running fine for several years, and at the right price too.
> Good luck.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP"
> to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

What size are those ballast resistors, or what year vehicle did they
come from???

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 21:42:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chris North
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 6volt guages on 12 volt
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Roger Fletcher wrote:
>
>> I have a 51 F-1, on mine I just used a Chrysler ballast resistor and
>> it's been running fine for several years, and at the right price too.
>> Good luck.
> What size are those ballast resistors, or what year vehicle did they
>come from???
>
>
I'm not sure what the resistance is (it actually varies with temperature,
that's part of what makes it work in the ignition system) but I believe
Chrysler used the same size from the late 50's untill the introduction of
distributorless ignitions (what, the 90's?)(I'm talking the /6's and the
V8's here, Mitsu engines not included). For a while, in the mid 70's, the
electronic ignition module required an additional external resistor, so
they made some 'Dual Reisitor' ballast resistors. Later, a redesign of the
module eliminated the need for the extra exnernal resistor, so they went
back to the single resistor. As far as I know (and I do know a bit about
MoPars), they are all interchangable. That is, one from a electronic
ignition system will work fine in a points system, etc... The only
difference is the type with 2 resistors, which are twins--I have heard
people using 2 single resistors for one dual, and using just one of the
dual reisitors for a single. They should be dirt cheap at any junkyard.
They are a rectangular piece of white ceramic about 2.5-3 inches long,
about 1/2 inch wide (1 inch wide for the dual design) and 3/4 inch tall,
and mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. One lead on each
end (well, 2 one each end for the dual's)

Probably more than you ever wanted to know about eh Chrysler ballast resistors.

chris north

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 02:07:21 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
To:
Subject: Re: gauges
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: Terry R Sherman
> To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
> Subject: Re: gauges
> Date: Friday, July 25, 1997 11:23 AM
>
> Hooking them in parallel will half the wattage, hooking them in series
will
> half the voltage. If you get a 12v to 6v transformer... I think you
> understand...

Please don't talk about transformers in DC circuits, it only confuses
things, Transformers only work in ac circuits.
>
>
>
> Thank You,
> Terry Sherman
> terbear discover-net.net
> '76 Ford Highboy...
>
> ----------
> > From: John Strauss
> > To: Ford Trucks List
> > Subject: gauges
> > Date: Friday, July 25, 1997 7:53 AM
> >
> > >Does anyone know a good way to use 6v gauges on a 12v system.
> >
> > I have NO experience with this but couldn't you hook 2 of the gauges in
> series?
> >
> >
> > _
> > _| ~~. John Strauss
> > \, _} jstrauss inetport.com
> > \( Texas Fight!
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________________
> > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> > For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
> >
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 06:59:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob LaDouceur
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Subject: HELP Needed on 89 Power Windows
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The driver side power window on my wife's 1989 Ford F150 won't work. The switch
itself is good and I get power to the connection on the motor. Not having a
shop
manual, I can't see how to remove the motor. I removed two small screws
between the
motor and the door panel but that must only be part of the connection. On
the top
of the motor, there is something that looks like a lock nut and set screw but I
figured that to be for some kind of adjustment.

Does anyone have any experience they'd be willing to share on completing this
repair? Thanks in advance.
Bob LaDouceur
---
bobl proaxis.com
Corvallis, Oregon

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jul 97 10:26:08 EDT
From: DC Beatty
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: thanks
Message-ID:

Ken wrote:
up gummed lifters? Sometimes it does the trick.>>

Yes, but I am concerned with dislodging any crap that might be making the oil
rings work, etc. I am taking the conservative approach. I'll drive it for awhile
to see if it doesn't just free up on its own. Then, maybe a quart of ATF.
Then...

Thanks for the suggestion.


DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 09:18:04 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
To:
Subject: Re: HELP Needed on 89 Power Windows
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

>The driver side power window on my wife's 1989 Ford F150 won't work. The
switch
>itself is good and I get power to the connection on the motor.

Same thing happened to my wives Aerostar. It's more then likely the
something. You need to drill holes in the dimples in the door to get to the
screws, to get the motor out.
After taking out the drivers side (same symptoms) I found the door was
cracked and putting the motor out of alignment. I made a bracket and pop
riveted it in the door. Put it back together greased the gear and window
regulator and it works fine now. The passenger door (same systems) Having
removed the drivers side needlessly I checked the passengers side without
removing the motor and found it needed grease.
Ok, after seeing there was no crack, I knew it had to be the motor and
drilled the holes as per the manual and removed the motor, only to find it
worked. It was dry as a bone, so I greased the gear and window regulator put
it back together and it works fine now! So nether had to come out if I had
known what the problem was! They are a... um... Son of a gun to get out!
Later!

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net

'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob LaDouceur
To: FORDTRUCKS lofcom.com
Date: Sunday, July 27, 1997 7:22 AM
Subject: HELP Needed on 89 Power Windows



>The driver side power window on my wife's 1989 Ford F150 won't work. The
switch
>itself is good and I get power to the connection on the motor. Not having
a
>shop
>manual, I can't see how to remove the motor. I removed two small screws
>between the
>motor and the door panel but that must only be part of the connection. On
>the top
>of the motor, there is something that looks like a lock nut and set screw
but I
>figured that to be for some kind of adjustment.
>
>Does anyone have any experience they'd be willing to share on completing
this
>repair? Thanks in advance.
>Bob LaDouceur
>---
> bobl proaxis.com
> Corvallis, Oregon
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send mail with subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 19:03:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Fordf3 aol.com
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest Digest V97 #126
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-07-25 11:02:09 EDT, you write:

>
i have a 48 f3 i am new on net and having a hard time with it write to me

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 22:13:16 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: RE: thanks
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 10:26 AM 7/27/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Ken wrote:
>up gummed lifters? Sometimes it does the trick.>>
>
>Yes, but I am concerned with dislodging any crap that might be making the oil
>rings work, etc. I am taking the conservative approach. I'll drive it for awhile
>to see if it doesn't just free up on its own. Then, maybe a quart of ATF.
>Then...
>
>Thanks for the suggestion.
>
>
>DC Beatty
>1967 F-100 352
>1974 Maverick 302
>
>

I've used ATF for many of the same applications as Marvel
Mystery Oil. Does wonders for cleaning out your carb if
you put a little in your gas tank!

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 23:23:52 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Will 429 fit a 77 f150
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

TACYCBR aol.com wrote:


> Everything will bolt in place. I would make the swap but I don't have your
> wallet for the gas.
>
Everything including exhaust manifolds?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 23:23:52 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
To: fordtrucks lofcom.com
Subject: Moly rings
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

What are moly rings and are they good or bad for a truck engine?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 21:54:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: kel-cel ccinet.ab.ca (kel-cel )
To: fordtrucks ....


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